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Is 10KN enough?
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donald949


Sep 10, 2010, 9:41 PM
Post #101 of 102 (498 views)
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455

Re: [kachoong] Is 10KN enough? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
now if you would contribute to what you see as the most common nut failures ... youd be helpful too Wink

Well, it's not really the question of the OP, but if you must.... I would say inexperienced nut placer is the most common cause of nut failure.
Exactly, including myself once.
It was the first (lowest) piece of three in a crack after a ramp and got yanked out by the side pull of the rope.
I have not taken many fliers, and only some on nuts. Has any one actually seen nuts fail and not the placement?
IE the cable fail, or the head pull through the rock constriction?


kennoyce


Sep 10, 2010, 10:54 PM
Post #102 of 102 (480 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338

Re: [marc801] Is 10KN enough? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
...but they are no more nuts than hexes are.

Where do you think the term "nuts" came from? Why is a hex not a nut?

I know where the term nut came from, but the fact that original nuts had 6 sides (nuts as in nuts and bolts) making them hexagonal in shape does not make them a hex. The difference between a hex and a nut is the fact that a hex uses camming action and can in fact be placed in a parallel sided crack of the right size. Try that with a nut. Original nuts though hexagonal in shape did not provide any camming action.

Gear, like everything, evolves and changes over time. Things that may have started from a common ancestor become distinct species over time.

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