How unusual for you to be totally wrong.

I deleted my posts for a reason. All the OP wants is affirmation from other 5.8–5.10 climbers just like him. And that's pretty much what he's getting. If he wants to remain a 5.10 climber all his life, then he should continue his program of non-specific training. That seems to be his plan, since he called advice to do otherwise "bullshit."

Jay

I'm guessing that your past lifting has built you a great base from which you can build your climbing from. If you've been lifting like this for several year than large muscle group strength is not going to your Limiting Factor. So in this regard I would argue that very little of the exercises you are doing is going to be useful in training for climbing.

I began climbing after being active in lifting. I lifted for almost 6 years, 3 times a week. The results were great and it certainly helped me build a good strength base for climbing and injury prevention in the large muscle groups. However after trying to do both (lift and climb) I realized that getting stronger in these large muscle groups wasn't going to help my climbing as much as working on my finger strength and movement skills. After I quit lifting (beyond some lightweight elbow exercises) my climbing greatly improved. For one my elbows got a chance to recover and two, I had more energy and time for climbing.

So if I were you and want to get better at climbing, I would take a hard look at your weaknesses (might be best to have someone else point them out to you, or even pay a climbing trainer because if you've spent money on it maybe you'll listen to them). If your weakness isn't large muscle groups, then I would greatly scale back the lifting, and use that time for climbing. If you feel it is necessary keep some shoulder exercises and wrist rotation exercises in for injury prevention. I often do some ab exercises after my climbing workout.

Disclaimer: This advice is written from a sport / trad / bouldering standpoint. If you want to climb everest or haul pigs for Tommy on the side of El Cap then what your doing is probably great. Also lifting / running / swimming / whatever is going to be better for you on the weeks you can't climb then sitting on the couch drinking beers.

Also as a plus once your somewhere around 12+ / V7 you can start hangboarding training and carry your pen and notepad to the climbing gym to track your hangboarding and campus workouts.

Good luck and have fun!

It's as if you speak a different language.

Thanks for the continuing non-response. I hope your back feels better.

You're welcome. I hope you stop beating your wife.

Jay

Ok there Jay, that crossed the line. I know you like to come off as a hard ass but that's a cheap shot.

You're acting like an ass, knock it off.

*whoosh*

Jay

All that that changes is now yo've shown that you're looser who spends way too much time on the internet.

My orginal comment still stands; you're an ass who takes cheap shots at users when your ego is hurt.

Sucks to be you.

Will lifting weights as part of a fitness routine help keep you in climbing shape . . . No

Are there other ways gain the benefits of strength training without lifting weights . . . Yes

Even after having it explained to you, you still don't get it and think I was taking a cheap shot at onceahardman. Sucks to be that dumb.

Jay

Lastly, I like what chadnsc wrote a lot with the exception of a couple things:

Yes it will in that your fitness foundation will remain higher--the platform from which all athletes must work.

Um...not really? People forget that lifting against any weight force (including your own) is "lifting weight." You cannot gain strength benefits of any kind unless you do something that taxes your muscles to the point of failure. No, cardio doesn't count.

No Jay, I get it that it's a reference to a online joke that one becomes aware of after spending way too much time online.

What you don't get is that regardless of said joke I still think that you, in general are an ass that takes cheap shots at people when they don't agree with you.

No, you don't get it. It's not a reference to an online joke at all.


Well, I wasn't taking a cheap shot at onceahardman. It was he who was taking a very cheap shot at me, albeit one based on false presupposition.

Jay

Jay, I already said I hope you feel better. Would you be so kind as to show me exactly the "very cheap shot" I have taken at you?

And BTW, regarding the "beating my wife" statement...I did not consider it a cheap shot against me. Its more of another example of the things you say to people here that you lack the courage to say face to face.

I love my wife dearly, and I'm pretty sure she could lump you up pretty well.

Jay, flat-out question: You say you climb harder than someguy who climbs 5.13a. So, how hard exactly DO you climb? 5.12? 5.13? 5.14? V10? V12?

Your log (and I'd note at this point you and cuRt are quick to pour shit on others' logs) suggests you don't really climb, if climbing means having logged a climb in the last year.

"I hope you stop beating your wife" was meant as a take-off on the classic example of false presupposition: "Have you stopped beating your wife?" As the stickler for logical correctness that you are, I trust that you will figure out why it was an apt response to your comment.

As far as what I think was a cheap shot on your part, I think you already know. But perhaps, as you suggest, we are hopelessly destined to misunderstand each other. Welcome to my world on rc.com.

Jay

Jay doesn't answer flat-out questions.

Jay doesn't respond to morons that he's killfiled.

Jay

I understood the wife-beating comment.

The very cheap shot, not so much. Is it a cheap shot to point out that you are/were injured and unable to climb...

...and that correlates with you not strength training?

And that others who climb at least as hard as you strength train... and are not injured? Is that a very "cheap shot", Jay?

Consider Largo for a moment. He onsighted first ascents in your maximum difficulty (pure numbers-wise) 25 years ago, while aggressively strength training.

You hangdog your way up 5.12a sport, working out the moves for a redpoint, and think you are doing something significant.You hangdog your way up 5.12a sport, working out the moves for a redpoint, and think you are doing something significant.

Maybe after you rehabilitate your injury, with some therapeutic exercise.

That right there Jay is you taking a cheap shot at someone who won't agree with you.