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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 3:49 PM
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How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
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Kartessa
Oct 25, 2010, 3:52 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
You don't belay them... 5.11 implies soloing.
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dingus
Oct 25, 2010, 3:53 PM
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And swimming. So have a life preserver at the ready!
DMT
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 3:56 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
Bwaaahahahahahaha!
My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 3:57 PM
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shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll.
Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
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Dip
Oct 25, 2010, 4:05 PM
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poorly conceived one at that. Who sits around and thinks of this crap?
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Kartessa
Oct 25, 2010, 4:20 PM
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Dip wrote: poorly conceived one at that. Who sits around and thinks of this crap?
Someone who climbs late fall/winter/spring in Oregon.
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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 4:39 PM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym.
I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
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colatownkid
Oct 25, 2010, 4:45 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Assuming you speak the truth, I would say that in all likelihood the aforementioned "experienced climber" was making a joke. Either that, or there is some significant difference between the 5.10s and 5.11s at your particular gym that is not immediately apparent to the uninitiated. But the short answer is, no, there is no real difference in belaying a 5.10 or 5.11. The same goal applies--keep the climber safe.
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shrug7
Oct 25, 2010, 4:46 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Can you tell me how do you belay a marathoner then?
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airscape
Oct 25, 2010, 5:07 PM
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There seems to be of late lots of people with not applicable verb + profession names
running librarian
extreme actuary
etc etc.
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 5:12 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Well in that case, my apologies for the rudeness. All in good fun. However, it's pretty much impossible to answer you, because the question itself is flawed and shows that you are making a lot of strange assumptions. Either you misunderstood something or this person doesn't know what the fuck he/she is talking about or he/she is messing with you.
In any case, I'll try to clarify this situation a bit, while avoiding any kind of "how-to" instruction. That should be done in person with an experienced climber.
The two main types of belaying you'll encounter in most gyms are belaying a top-roped climber and belaying a leader. A top-rope (TR) is exactly what it sounds like: the rope goes from the ground to the top of the climb, through some form of anchor, and back to the ground. A climb that is led does not have a rope through a top anchor.
Techniques for belaying on TR do not depend on difficulty or grade. It's basically the same for a 5.5. as it is for a 5.12. Similarly, techniques for belaying a leader are independent of grade of difficulty. However, technique for belaying TR and a leader are VERY different.
Grade is the difficulty of movement to complete the route. It has absolutely nothing to do with number of pitches.
A pitch is a section of a climb that is typically done on a single belay. Multiple pitches in a gym is very much a rarity and a novelty.
(This post was edited by shoo on Oct 25, 2010, 5:13 PM)
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 5:15 PM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other?
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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 5:15 PM
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1) how do you belay a marathoner? You stay the $#%%# out of the way when we run by.
2) verbs+professions. Airsanctuary sounds like a bad journey cover band.
3) thanks for those who set me straight on this and offered real info. To those who apparently have forgotten what it's like to be new at anything or stopped stepping out of their comfort zones long ago with new activities: lame.
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brijoel
Oct 25, 2010, 5:17 PM
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colatownkid wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug. Assuming you speak the truth, I would say that in all likelihood the aforementioned "experienced climber" was making a joke. Either that, or there is some significant difference between the 5.10s and 5.11s at your particular gym that is not immediately apparent to the uninitiated. But the short answer is, no, there is no real difference in belaying a 5.10 or 5.11. The same goal applies--keep the climber safe.
Perhaps there's a little bit of a misunderstanding beyond the grading since we have a very new climber asking the question.
@runnerlibrarian - Do you know what lead climbing is? If so, is it possible this is what the other climber was referring to more so than just "5.11?" If so, there is indeed a difference between belaying someone on lead versus belaying someone on top rope. As others have said, the grade is really inconsequential to belaying the climb. If you're two months into climbing, I honestly wouldn't be comfortable with you belaying me on a moderately difficult lead climb either. I suspect (since you're in a gym) you wouldn't actually be allowed to belay someone on lead either until you've either taken their class, or passed some sort of concocted lead belay/climb test the gym has in place.
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airscape
Oct 25, 2010, 5:19 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: 1) how do you belay a marathoner? You stay the $#%%# out of the way when we run by. 2) verbs+professions. Airsanctuary sounds like a bad journey cover band. 3) thanks for those who set me straight on this and offered real info. To those who apparently have forgotten what it's like to be new at anything or stopped stepping out of their comfort zones long ago with new activities: lame.
You have enlightened me.
I never realized that I spelled my name incorrectly, or that I covered great journeys with my band rather badly.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 5:51 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Climbing is a lot like marathons. Except the tape goes on your hands and/or fingers instead of your nipples.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 5:51 PM
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shoo wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other?
It'd be worth the novelty and, duh!, they only allow 5.11 belayers to participate in multipitch. I'm comfortable with that.
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fresh
Oct 25, 2010, 6:42 PM
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for reference, this question sounds about the same as asking, "how do you tape your nipples when running sub-3 hours? it's not the same as when you run slower, right? because there are multiple intervals?"
actually now I really wanna go troll letsrun.com.
(This post was edited by fresh on Oct 25, 2010, 6:44 PM)
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jbro_135
Oct 25, 2010, 6:43 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level troll. |
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cruxstacean
Oct 26, 2010, 2:26 AM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other? It'd be worth the novelty and, duh!, they only allow 5.11 belayers to participate in multipitch. I'm comfortable with that.
So, maybe a 40m wall? That would be pretty damn awesome. Is it possible to build a wall this big? If so, it would cost a fortune...
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cruxstacean
Oct 26, 2010, 3:16 AM
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wow, just wow.
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jamatt
Oct 26, 2010, 4:32 AM
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airscape wrote: There seems to be of late lots of people with not applicable verb + profession names running librarian extreme actuary etc etc.
look up "compensation" in leisure theory.
http://findarticles.com/...s_2_34/ai_n28925157/
(This post was edited by jamatt on Oct 26, 2010, 12:25 PM)
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potreroed
Oct 28, 2010, 3:11 PM
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Be alert (the world needs more lerts) and don't let go of the brake hand.
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jcd82
Oct 28, 2010, 10:14 PM
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Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
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cruxstacean
Oct 28, 2010, 11:01 PM
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jcd82 wrote: Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
hahah its true
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chilli
Oct 29, 2010, 12:27 AM
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jcd82 wrote: Man you guys are rough! I was previously under the impression all climbers are pretty relaxed and nice, but maybe that changes on the internet. Plus, this is the beginner's forum, so the question of how to belay a 5.11 seems pretty in context.
on one hand, you're right; everyone seems to feel like it's ok to be an ass online.
on the other hand, you've got to understand that there are people who get a kick out of trolling and it makes those who've been around for a while a bit skeptical of any suspicious question. hang around for a while and you'll see.
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ClimbSoHigh
Oct 29, 2010, 5:38 PM
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I have heard people grade belaying skill with the yosemitee scale and have done so myself in joking. A really solid belayer that always gives nice soft catches, never short ropes, great technique, can use any belay device including a munter, is solid with singe and double ropes, can escape their belay and rig a haul system, we call a "5.12 belayer". I never heard a criteria for what makes you each level, since it is subjective. If one friend is a better belayer than you can say this guy is clearly a 5.8 belayer while your a 5.10 belayer. Just a thought on why the OP might have been asked if he was a 5.11 belayer. (the guy was asking if the OP was a proficient belayer). But I agree, when I first saw the post I thought it was most likely a troll, which is way fun to do on a rainy day.
There are lots of nich terms used by groups of climbers. Me and my friends use silly terms we made up for our own entertainment all the time. For climbing commands I have a friend that we use...
On belay?
Belay is on.
Party on Wayne?
Party on Garth.
I would love to overhear someone else doing that at a crag someday!
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budman
Oct 29, 2010, 8:30 PM
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Just reading between the lines a bit but I believe what you were being asked was can you catch my fat ass when I fall and it's quite likely I will. As to multiple pitches in the gym, haven't climbed in one in over 10 years but I guess some might have the system as to teach people the mechanics of multipitch climbing relating to setting up hanging belays, belay techniques, cleaning the anchor, etc. Belaying 5.1 to 5.15 the object is to keep the leader off the ground in the event of a fall. Other things come into the equation such as ground fall potential and what to do but that surely is learnt at the next level.
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dugl33
Nov 13, 2010, 6:33 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
You've sort of asked the climbing equivalent of "what is the best running shoe to use in a triathlon, since triathlons have long swims?"
Assuming your query is genuine, I'd suggest perusing the terminology section of the beginners forum, specifically with regards to the meaning of "pitches."
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