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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 3:49 PM
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How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
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Kartessa
Oct 25, 2010, 3:52 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
You don't belay them... 5.11 implies soloing.
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dingus
Oct 25, 2010, 3:53 PM
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And swimming. So have a life preserver at the ready!
DMT
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 3:56 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks!
Bwaaahahahahahaha!
My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 3:57 PM
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shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll.
Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
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Dip
Oct 25, 2010, 4:05 PM
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poorly conceived one at that. Who sits around and thinks of this crap?
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Kartessa
Oct 25, 2010, 4:20 PM
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Dip wrote: poorly conceived one at that. Who sits around and thinks of this crap?
Someone who climbs late fall/winter/spring in Oregon.
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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 4:39 PM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym.
I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
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colatownkid
Oct 25, 2010, 4:45 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Assuming you speak the truth, I would say that in all likelihood the aforementioned "experienced climber" was making a joke. Either that, or there is some significant difference between the 5.10s and 5.11s at your particular gym that is not immediately apparent to the uninitiated. But the short answer is, no, there is no real difference in belaying a 5.10 or 5.11. The same goal applies--keep the climber safe.
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shrug7
Oct 25, 2010, 4:46 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Can you tell me how do you belay a marathoner then?
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airscape
Oct 25, 2010, 5:07 PM
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There seems to be of late lots of people with not applicable verb + profession names
running librarian
extreme actuary
etc etc.
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 5:12 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Well in that case, my apologies for the rudeness. All in good fun. However, it's pretty much impossible to answer you, because the question itself is flawed and shows that you are making a lot of strange assumptions. Either you misunderstood something or this person doesn't know what the fuck he/she is talking about or he/she is messing with you.
In any case, I'll try to clarify this situation a bit, while avoiding any kind of "how-to" instruction. That should be done in person with an experienced climber.
The two main types of belaying you'll encounter in most gyms are belaying a top-roped climber and belaying a leader. A top-rope (TR) is exactly what it sounds like: the rope goes from the ground to the top of the climb, through some form of anchor, and back to the ground. A climb that is led does not have a rope through a top anchor.
Techniques for belaying on TR do not depend on difficulty or grade. It's basically the same for a 5.5. as it is for a 5.12. Similarly, techniques for belaying a leader are independent of grade of difficulty. However, technique for belaying TR and a leader are VERY different.
Grade is the difficulty of movement to complete the route. It has absolutely nothing to do with number of pitches.
A pitch is a section of a climb that is typically done on a single belay. Multiple pitches in a gym is very much a rarity and a novelty.
(This post was edited by shoo on Oct 25, 2010, 5:13 PM)
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shoo
Oct 25, 2010, 5:15 PM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym.
Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other?
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runnerlibrarian
Oct 25, 2010, 5:15 PM
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1) how do you belay a marathoner? You stay the $#%%# out of the way when we run by.
2) verbs+professions. Airsanctuary sounds like a bad journey cover band.
3) thanks for those who set me straight on this and offered real info. To those who apparently have forgotten what it's like to be new at anything or stopped stepping out of their comfort zones long ago with new activities: lame.
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brijoel
Oct 25, 2010, 5:17 PM
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colatownkid wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug. Assuming you speak the truth, I would say that in all likelihood the aforementioned "experienced climber" was making a joke. Either that, or there is some significant difference between the 5.10s and 5.11s at your particular gym that is not immediately apparent to the uninitiated. But the short answer is, no, there is no real difference in belaying a 5.10 or 5.11. The same goal applies--keep the climber safe.
Perhaps there's a little bit of a misunderstanding beyond the grading since we have a very new climber asking the question.
@runnerlibrarian - Do you know what lead climbing is? If so, is it possible this is what the other climber was referring to more so than just "5.11?" If so, there is indeed a difference between belaying someone on lead versus belaying someone on top rope. As others have said, the grade is really inconsequential to belaying the climb. If you're two months into climbing, I honestly wouldn't be comfortable with you belaying me on a moderately difficult lead climb either. I suspect (since you're in a gym) you wouldn't actually be allowed to belay someone on lead either until you've either taken their class, or passed some sort of concocted lead belay/climb test the gym has in place.
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airscape
Oct 25, 2010, 5:19 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: 1) how do you belay a marathoner? You stay the $#%%# out of the way when we run by. 2) verbs+professions. Airsanctuary sounds like a bad journey cover band. 3) thanks for those who set me straight on this and offered real info. To those who apparently have forgotten what it's like to be new at anything or stopped stepping out of their comfort zones long ago with new activities: lame.
You have enlightened me.
I never realized that I spelled my name incorrectly, or that I covered great journeys with my band rather badly.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 5:51 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. This is actually a real question, sorry to admit. A very experienced climber said to me in the gym "do you know how to belay a 5.11?" It wasn't until later that I wondered...is there a difference in how you belay someone on a 5.10 and lower as opposed to a 5.11? Sorry of this question could be answered by a 4 year old tot at the gym. I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level triathlete, run a 2:39 marathon, but just started climbing in Aug.
Climbing is a lot like marathons. Except the tape goes on your hands and/or fingers instead of your nipples.
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gmggg
Oct 25, 2010, 5:51 PM
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shoo wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other?
It'd be worth the novelty and, duh!, they only allow 5.11 belayers to participate in multipitch. I'm comfortable with that.
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fresh
Oct 25, 2010, 6:42 PM
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for reference, this question sounds about the same as asking, "how do you tape your nipples when running sub-3 hours? it's not the same as when you run slower, right? because there are multiple intervals?"
actually now I really wanna go troll letsrun.com.
(This post was edited by fresh on Oct 25, 2010, 6:44 PM)
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jbro_135
Oct 25, 2010, 6:43 PM
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runnerlibrarian wrote: I'm very new to climbing and it is humbling not being good at something. I'm a professional level troll. |
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cruxstacean
Oct 26, 2010, 2:26 AM
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gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: gmggg wrote: shoo wrote: runnerlibrarian wrote: How do you belay someone on a 5.11 climb in a gym? I have a few books that don't seem to cover this in great detail and can't find much on the web. It can't be the same as you would for easier climbs, right? Because there are multiple pitches? Thanks! Bwaaahahahahahaha! My heart wants me to believe that this is a genuine question, but my head says it's a troll. Either way I'm jealous of that gym. Why would you ever want multi-pitch in a gym? Do you really want there to be more opportunity for gym gumbies to kill themselves and each other? It'd be worth the novelty and, duh!, they only allow 5.11 belayers to participate in multipitch. I'm comfortable with that.
So, maybe a 40m wall? That would be pretty damn awesome. Is it possible to build a wall this big? If so, it would cost a fortune...
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cruxstacean
Oct 26, 2010, 3:16 AM
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wow, just wow.
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jamatt
Oct 26, 2010, 4:32 AM
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airscape wrote: There seems to be of late lots of people with not applicable verb + profession names running librarian extreme actuary etc etc.
look up "compensation" in leisure theory.
http://findarticles.com/...s_2_34/ai_n28925157/
(This post was edited by jamatt on Oct 26, 2010, 12:25 PM)
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potreroed
Oct 28, 2010, 3:11 PM
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Be alert (the world needs more lerts) and don't let go of the brake hand.
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