|
vinnie83
Dec 17, 2010, 5:05 AM
Post #26 of 32
(3104 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 112
|
1. ropebag/stuff sack at the anchor- fish has some ropebags that are perfect for this
2. unmodified Gri Gri (aid and walls with a little free climbing) and Silent Partner (just free climbing, but it really just collects dust now as I would prefer to free solo easier stuff than rope solo on a free climb)
3. have done a lot of both, but rarely rope solo free climbs anymore
4. a few times on a gri gri, everything worked fine
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 17, 2010, 5:33 AM
Post #27 of 32
(3099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
DangerGir1 wrote: Solo aid and rope solo for free climbing should have vary similar or the same set up. I just have never see it done nor found a book with the directions on the best way to rope up.
I know on the surface it might seem that way, but in practice nothing could be further from the truth. You can get in the ballpark of that idea if you use the Silent Partner, but for free, lead roped-soloing and aid soloing I use entirely different setups. For lead roped-soloing I stack the rope in a small backpack and use an Edelrid Eddy for the solo device; for aid soloing I use an unmodified grigri on a mallion rapide and stack the rope in a rope bucket at the anchor. Very different deals, mainly because I'm moving fast when I'm free climbing and slow when I'm aiding. Beyond that you end up with entirely different sets of rope management and handling requirements.
There are lots of opinions on the matter - many tightly coupled to the device of choice - but mine do come from 35 years of free, lead roped soloing. That constitutes about 50% of my climbing and almost all on multi-pitch and generally in old school 5.9-510c range, running into a several hundred pitches a year with the system I've come to use.
But that doesn't mean the system I use will necessarily work for you, only that it works for me. Canadian Stéphane Perron free roped-soloed Astroman and Freerider with a Soloist which I very much dislike. And hell, 'OldSalt' who posts here invented his own soloing device after not liking any of the ones currently available. In the end, the essence of roped soloing is sorting out what works for you and dialing that in so you don't have to think about, or focus on, the mechanics of it or the fact that you're alone so you can just climb.
You can tell you're getting it down when it takes you about 3/4 to 2/3 of the time of a party of two to do any given multi-pitch line. Getting there takes years of dialing, head-work, and in the end - lots of yardage over stone sorting it all out.
(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 17, 2010, 3:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
kristoffer
Dec 25, 2010, 4:17 AM
Post #28 of 32
(2973 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2005
Posts: 55
|
I highly suggest you rig your gri-gri and back up knot system through a chest harness to create a more favorable center of gravity if you do make that plunge.
|
|
|
|
|
MomentSurf
Dec 25, 2010, 5:19 PM
Post #29 of 32
(2946 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2010
Posts: 13
|
How do all these devices work if you want to lower yourself 3/4 up a climb?
I'm assuming you would have to know how to switch over to a repel device.
Does the GriGri allow you to repel 'as is'?
Do any of the devices allow you to repel 'as is'?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Dec 25, 2010, 6:01 PM
Post #30 of 32
(2939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
MomentSurf wrote: How do all these devices work if you want to lower yourself 3/4 up a climb? I'm assuming you would have to know how to switch over to a repel device. Does the GriGri allow you to repel 'as is'? Do any of the devices allow you to repel 'as is'? Thanks
Lower yourself to where, 1/4 of the ropes length back down?
If your 3/4's up and your intention is to retreat, then you can either down climb, down aid or build enough of an anchor to rap off of and plan on leaving some gear.
You could lower yourself back to the halfway point (leaving gear) and then do any of the above.
A Soloist can be rigged to rap, or you can use a different device or a munter.
Edit for link;
Here's a link in PDF format for the instructions on a Soloist.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 25, 2010, 6:06 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
MomentSurf
Dec 25, 2010, 6:22 PM
Post #31 of 32
(2930 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2010
Posts: 13
|
I'm sorry...I was referring to TR soloing. I've been planning on starting to do a bit of TR soloing. Trying to decide on a device (so many threads and so many opinions!!). I would use back-up knots (butterflies) on the non working half.
As for my main device, it seems that it’s a bit of a process to get a normal solo device to 'unlock' after a fall. With a gri-gri, you could belay yourself down (either to the bottom or to a better starting point) after a fall with ease (no changing device, no building prusiks or using other devices to un-weight the rope ect). Unless I’m missing something (I have never used a gri-gri, that’s why I’m asking the question).
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 25, 2010, 8:14 PM
Post #32 of 32
(2918 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
It's real important to be clear about what you have in mind when talking about soloing - TR soloing, aid soloing, or lead roped-soloing. They are very different affairs and need to be referenced in context to minimize confusion in conversations.
In the case of 'TR soloing' here are lots of threads here and on Supertopo.com if you punch in that phrase into the search function or google.
|
|
|
|
|
|
