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jt512


Dec 13, 2010, 5:55 PM
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Re: [ClimbSoHigh] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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ClimbSoHigh wrote:
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What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap?

Jay

I am not sure why this bothers you so much.

It doesn't bother me at all. It's just fun to laugh at.

In reply to:
No need to declare everyone Gumby's.

I don't have the authority to declare anyone a gumby. Gumbies self-announce anyway, like you do here:

In reply to:
I think running my sling from my belay loop between my legs to my back gear loops looks just as silly as my harness. But then again I don't really care about fasion, especially while climbing. A PAS might look kinda silly racked like this (and possibly more likely to catch on something compared to racked on a biner on a gear loop), but the spectra shoulder slings for me hugs my leg on each side AND stays to the sides of my junk, just like my leg loops d. I love having my 2 indirects racked between the legs, esp if I am going to clean my lead and have to rethread the bolts. I just find it quicker than carying it on my shoulder for sport climbs, and running it between my legs keeps it out of the way untill I need it. And for the danger of it, I see it getting snagged just as likely as snagging the leg loops of my harness, and when I fall, I try not to cheese grate my grundle, which I would need to do to get it caught on a hold. I personally think there is more danger carying slings arround the shoulder (like most climbers do) than between the legs. http://www.summitpost.org/...lisk-accident/575614. If I ran it across my outter leg to my gear loop, it is much more likely to snag that way and gets in the way of draws. In fact, I think running it between your legs is the least likely to get snagged on features, aside from wadding one up and shoving it in my pocket :P (I like to give the slings a couple twists so they are snug against my leg and even less likely to droop/snag) For ease of use, I like to reach back and unclip my locker from my gear loop, let go as it swings through my legs, then re grab it and clip to the bolt, indirect in 2 seconds. What method is so much better than running it between my legs?

In reply to:
I know the advatages of it are small, but with no reason not to (other than the fasion argument), I don't see why I should not have it already hitched to my belay loop, ready to go, and out of the way? Please let me know what the "better" way is and why and I'll give it some consideration, but for rethreading sport anchors, I have not come across a better set up. I'd be happy to hear other's suggestions since in my 7 years of sport climbing, this is the meathod I consider best and have never had any snagging issues. (dyneema slings, not a PAS or Daisy).

The better method, as others have hinted, is just to leave all that crap at home. It's sport climbing; all you need are quick draws.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 13, 2010, 5:56 PM)


areyoumydude


Dec 13, 2010, 6:20 PM
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Re: [j_ung] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I've been seeing it a lot lately, too, on newbies and experienced climbers alike, who are apparently completely unaware of how ridiculous they look.

Huh, what? You talkin' to me?

Next you're going to tell me climbing with a flamingo beer bong is lame too.



Trad draws??? What a no0b.


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Dec 13, 2010, 6:21 PM)


spikeddem


Dec 13, 2010, 6:59 PM
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Re: [sp115] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.


bearbreeder


Dec 13, 2010, 7:04 PM
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Re: [sp115] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
And this is how we ended up at one point with men wearing Lycra and Spandex as climbing gear.

and some of those men climbed harder than you ever will Wink


sp115


Dec 13, 2010, 7:14 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
sp115 wrote:
And this is how we ended up at one point with men wearing Lycra and Spandex as climbing gear.

and some all of those men climbed harder than you ever will Wink

Fixed.


potreroed


Dec 13, 2010, 7:17 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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I have no idea where that came from but I see it a lot and it gives me the willies--maybe because I only have one remaining testicle. I ALWAYS climb with a PAS (trad or sport)but I clip it to my side in a manner that it doesn't get in the way.


stefanohatari


Dec 13, 2010, 7:55 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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Seems like two questions. Why a PAS, and why between the legs. PAS question has been thoroughly aired. I started clipping slings this way because my mentor Scott Backes did it this way. Never thought it was a problem before. Now I have to worry about the fashion police and gumby patrol. Jeez.

jt512 wrote:
What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap?

Jay


chilli


Dec 13, 2010, 7:57 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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jay, i've got nothing to argue with you about on the subject. you're entitled to your opinion, and your experiences in this case are in reference to sport climbing.
All i can offer is my experience in the trad world... i've been climbing for over a decade, used some form of PAS-variant for years, and tried both ways (around the waist and between the legs).
As far as the justification for the PAS at all = it's convenient, i like it, and it's not much dead weight for the amount that i like to use it (i go in on the anchor quick and easy and then clove the rope for the rest, not to mention plenty of other conveniences).
As far as the between the leg thing goes, again it's facility of use. I've found it to be an easy solution to the annoyances of the tangles i can get it in with a gear sling or other trad-trinkets. I just reach around back, unclip the PAS and it swings forward to clip to whatever i want, without fiddling with any untangling. I've also never gotten it hung up while climbing, never had it snag during a fall, and never gotten anything caught in it. Again, i just use draws for sport, so i can't speak to that use for PAS, but since were in the gear heads forum... Just a personal preference, but i figured i'd offer the opinion of someone on the other side of the argument.

either, way i'll let you know if it works out for the worst and i'm down one nut someday; then you can get a good chuckle out of some gumbie with the between-the-legs-look Wink


kachoong


Dec 13, 2010, 8:05 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I've been seeing it a lot lately, too, on newbies and experienced climbers alike, who are apparently completely unaware of how ridiculous they look.

Huh, what? You talkin' to me?

Next you're going to tell me climbing with a flamingo beer bong is lame too.



Trad draws??? What a no0b.

Heh... are you the inflatable turtle guy?


shimanilami


Dec 13, 2010, 8:15 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop?

I just like the way it feels, Jay.


jakedatc


Dec 13, 2010, 8:18 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.


areyoumydude


Dec 13, 2010, 8:23 PM
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Re: [kachoong] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:

Heh... are you the inflatable turtle guy?

Earl!!!!!!




spikeddem


Dec 13, 2010, 8:24 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

??

In reply to:
still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.
The issue is that sometimes you can end up straddling the rope immediately after clipping the first bolt. It's just one less thing to watch for when you're leading immediately off the ground on very thin/slopey stuff where adjusting your center of gravity to move the rope is annoying or difficult.

At the end of the day, it's just a preference thing. It's not causing anyone harm. I don't always do it, but I do do it from time to time.


jakedatc


Dec 13, 2010, 8:28 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

??

In reply to:
still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.
The issue is that sometimes you can end up straddling the rope immediately after clipping the first bolt. It's just one less thing to watch for when you're leading immediately off the ground on very thin/slopey stuff where adjusting your center of gravity to move the rope is annoying or difficult.

At the end of the day, it's just a preference thing. It's not causing anyone harm. I don't always do it, but I do do it from time to time.

so you put the rope over your shoulder while you are above a bolt? i don't see that being safe.


justroberto


Dec 13, 2010, 8:31 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.
I think what he means is that when you climb up and clip the first bolt like a normal person, the rope from the bolt to your belayer is frequently between your legs. If you throw it over your shoulder on the ground like a doofus, climb up and clip the first bolt, the rope from the bolt to the belayer is not between your legs, but outside. Still, it's a silly rationale, and it seems people actually do it because they think it's somehow going to make clipping easier. Or at least that's what someone tried to convince me of one time.


(This post was edited by justroberto on Dec 13, 2010, 8:32 PM)


jakedatc


Dec 13, 2010, 8:34 PM
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Re: [justroberto] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.
I think what he means is that when you climb up and clip the first bolt like a normal person, the rope from the bolt to your belayer is between your legs. If you throw it over your shoulder on the ground like a doofus, climb up and clip the first bolt, the rope from the bolt to the belayer is not between your legs, but outside. Still, it's a silly rationale, and it seems people actually do it because they think it's somehow going to make clipping easier. Or at least that's what someone tried to convince me of one time.

I dunno. it just looks stupid and i've never felt like the rope is in my way. either on a running slab start or super steep right off the ground


jt512


Dec 13, 2010, 8:38 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

??

In reply to:
still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.

The issue is that sometimes you can end up straddling the rope immediately after clipping the first bolt.

Having the rope run between your legs shouldn't be a problem anyhow if your belayer is holding the rope close to the wall, as he should be until you get a couple of bolts clipped.

Jay


hafilax


Dec 13, 2010, 8:41 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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Whenever I see a sling butt flosser I'm tempted give them a dyneema atomic wedgie. Maybe that's what the low first bolts at sport crags are for.


rocknice2


Dec 13, 2010, 8:57 PM
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Re: [jt512] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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One of my friends does the rope over the shoulder when sport climbing. I asked him about it once and he said it's so he can clip the 1st bolt faster. No need to put it in your teeth to get a 2nd arm length.
It has nothing to do with leg straddle.

edit typo


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Dec 13, 2010, 8:58 PM)


billcoe_


Dec 13, 2010, 8:59 PM
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Is that route called "Choking the bird"? LOL! Schweet stuff Larry!

Don't see it in your bouldering stuff, is it under the pad to keep it warm?


jt, when you are climbing long gear routes with 3 people and a single line, having a PAS or daisy is critical for getting some speed so your middle guy isn't Monkey Fucking the dog at each belay stance. Clipping the thing between your legs ensures it's less likely to hook on a rock flake, or get tangled in gear as you climb.


spikeddem


Dec 13, 2010, 9:07 PM
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jt512 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
sp115 wrote:
"spikeddem[/quote wrote:
As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.

Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.

No. You only have it over your shoulder until the first clip. Once you've clipped, then you're leading like normal again.

you wrote it... then argued against what you wrote fail...

??

In reply to:
still don't see how it is in the way before the first bolt. If you can't deal with a rope below you then you got bigger issues.

The issue is that sometimes you can end up straddling the rope immediately after clipping the first bolt.

Having the rope run between your legs shouldn't be a problem anyhow if your belayer is holding the rope close to the wall, as he should be until you get a couple of bolts clipped.

Jay
This is both correct and preferable in many cases. I agree.


spikeddem


Dec 13, 2010, 9:10 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
One of my friends does the rope over the shoulder when sport climbing. I asked him about it once and he said it's so he can clip the 1st bolt faster. No need to put it in your teeth to get a 2nd arm length.
It has nothing to do with leg straddle.

edit typo

Is he getting that pumped out on the first bolt?


areyoumydude


Dec 13, 2010, 9:37 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] PAS between the legs? [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:

Is that route called "Choking the bird"? LOL! Schweet stuff Larry!

Don't see it in your bouldering stuff, is it under the pad to keep it warm?


No Bill. I don't bring the flabongo bouldering anymore. It makes it too easy to drink too much beer. I will only take it sport climbing and big walling.


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Dec 13, 2010, 9:53 PM)


vegastradguy


Dec 14, 2010, 1:13 AM
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
mattm wrote:
This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder...

I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing?

yeah, before they get to the first bolt. its something that some of my more experienced partners do for a reason i still cant quite fathom- they say so its easier to clip. im like- dude, the stick clip is right here.


notapplicable


Dec 14, 2010, 1:56 AM
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Well done Jay, this thread has turned out to be quite the gumby magnet.

3 men on 1 rope and PAS's and dyneema buttfloss and a rope over the shoulder OH MY!!

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