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jt512
Dec 13, 2010, 4:38 AM
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What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap?
Jay
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altelis
Dec 13, 2010, 4:41 AM
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Maybe this is an east-to-west fad?
I've seen people doing it for years with daisies or just a sling back east. The answer i've always gotten is that it doesn't get in the way of the QD's...
That said, I had a couple friends who did and still do it, and they've been climbing harder and for longer than I, trad, sport, ice, alpine, etc. So who knows...
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mattm
Dec 13, 2010, 4:41 AM
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This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder...
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billcoe_
Dec 13, 2010, 4:59 AM
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Can't speak for anyone else, but I learned to do it from Ujahn.
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jt512
Dec 13, 2010, 5:00 AM
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mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder...
Yeah, then there's that. Around here, at least, there has been a small number of climbers (mostly gumbies) who do that. Likewise, for the PAS/daisy/whatever between the legs, but all of the sudden there has been an exponential increase in the latter. It seems so weird. First of all, carrying a PAS on a sport climb is essentially worthless, but its supposed benefit is that makes it easier to clip into the anchors: you just unclip the PAS from your gear loop an clip into the anchor. Voila. But with it between your legs, you completely negate the imaginary advantage of carrying it in the first place. Plus, what if you fall and it gets caught on something? You get flipped upside down and castrated. But at least you're wearing your helment.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 13, 2010, 5:04 AM)
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billcoe_
Dec 13, 2010, 5:01 AM
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jt512 wrote: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap? Jay
Opps, forgot the quote. BTW, the benefits are several and are obvious. 5 stars for you anyway.
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caughtinside
Dec 13, 2010, 5:17 AM
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jt512 wrote: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap? Jay
I did that years ago when I didn't know any better. I just did it for mulitpitch trad though. Ran it through the legs to keep it from getting tangled with the shit on gear loops. Seemed like a good idea.
But then I wised up and figured out that daisys and PASs were just unnecessary n00b clutter.
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bearbreeder
Dec 13, 2010, 8:07 AM
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will it rip their ballz off if they fall?
if people want to do it and its not unsafe ... so be it
lol
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j_ung
Dec 13, 2010, 11:59 AM
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I've been seeing it a lot lately, too, on newbies and experienced climbers alike, who are apparently completely unaware of how ridiculous they look. I like the trend, though. They've taken something superfluous, and turned it into something that brightens my day and makes me laugh. Nice gumby thong, billcoe_. 
I don't know about it being substantially more dangerous, though. Maybe a little. Anything that snags it was probably going to leave a mark anyway.
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TarHeelEMT
Dec 13, 2010, 12:32 PM
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mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder...
I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing?
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shockabuku
Dec 13, 2010, 12:53 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: jt512 wrote: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap? Jay Opps, forgot the quote. BTW, the benefits are several and are obvious. 5 stars for you anyway.
Might be many but they're not obvious.
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billl7
Dec 13, 2010, 1:22 PM
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jt512 wrote: ... carrying a PAS on a sport climb is essentially worthless, but its supposed benefit is that makes it easier to clip into the anchors: you just unclip the PAS from your gear loop an clip into the anchor. Voila. But with it between your legs ...
Like caughtinside, I stowed it betwixt the thighs on multi-pitch when I started - it kept it out of the way of stuff - but no longer use it at all.
I find it hard to believe anyone would normally clip it the way you suggest. Maybe you have PAD envy.
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 13, 2010, 1:38 PM)
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sp115
Dec 13, 2010, 1:53 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: if people want to do it and its not unsafe ... so be it lol
And this is how we ended up at one point with men wearing Lycra and Spandex as climbing gear.
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jbro_135
Dec 13, 2010, 2:29 PM
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in the rare event that i am using a daisy/pas or whatever to tether to an anchor at the top of a route and need to bring it up with me, i will often do this because i find my knee gets caught up in the damn thing if it's just clipped to my gear loop normally and it drives me nuts
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bill413
Dec 13, 2010, 3:46 PM
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I think it's a longing for the Whillans harness.
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TheRucat
Dec 13, 2010, 4:10 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder... I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing?
Yeah, before clipping the first bolt they hang the rope over their shoulder. I don't understand why.
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jbro_135
Dec 13, 2010, 4:16 PM
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TheRucat wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder... I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing? Yeah, before clipping the first bolt they hang the rope over their shoulder. I don't understand why.
I have done this before on a route that had a long traverse to the first bolt, that way you don't have to step over the rope a million times for no reason. However, that was like once, ever and I see it happen way too often for no reason, I don't really understand the need
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spikeddem
Dec 13, 2010, 4:19 PM
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TheRucat wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder... I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing? Yeah, before clipping the first bolt they hang the rope over their shoulder. I don't understand why.
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spikeddem
Dec 13, 2010, 4:21 PM
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jt512 wrote: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap? Jay
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ClimbSoHigh
Dec 13, 2010, 4:24 PM
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Bored at work so I guess I have time to defend my prefered technique...
In reply to: And this is how we ended up at one point with men wearing Lycra and Spandex as climbing gear.
Last time I checked, people still don the Spandex. To each their own, and if they get a kick out of it, more power to them.
In reply to: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS attached to the the front of their harness, running between their legs, and clipped to a rear gear loop? Where did this bizarre practice originate? Is there supposed to be some benefit to this? In addition to their helment are they wearing a jock strap? Jay
I am not sure why this bothers you so much. Maybe you should spend less time concerned about the systems of others, especially if it is a fassion/preference issue, not a safety issue. I just don't see how this would affect your climbing, safety or general enjoyment at the crags. If you don't prefer that method, then just don't use it and leave it at that. No need to declare everyone Gumby's. Also it must have been arround for some time now, since I was tought this by a east coast climber 7 years ago, and he had been using it much longer.
In reply to: But then I wised up and figured out that daisys and PASs were just unnecessary n00b clutter.
Agreed, use a damn sling! But if you got the loot, the gear companies sure don't mind, and niether do I if you want that anchor seconds quicker for a hefty price tag and added clutter. I just choose not to use em, and prolly never will.
In reply to: I've been seeing it a lot lately, too, on newbies and experienced climbers alike, who are apparently completely unaware of how ridiculous they look. I like the trend, though. They've taken something superfluous, and turned it into something that brightens my day and makes me laugh. Nice gumby thong, billcoe_. I don't know about it being substantially more dangerous, though. Maybe a little. Anything that snags it was probably going to leave a mark anyway.
I am glad to help spread happiness, but I was just wondering how fassion made it into the equasion. I think running my sling from my belay loop between my legs to my back gear loops looks just as silly as my harness. But then again I don't really care about fasion, especially while climbing. A PAS might look kinda silly racked like this (and possibly more likely to catch on something compared to racked on a biner on a gear loop), but the spectra shoulder slings for me hugs my leg on each side AND stays to the sides of my junk, just like my leg loops d. I love having my 2 indirects racked between the legs, esp if I am going to clean my lead and have to rethread the bolts. I just find it quicker than carying it on my shoulder for sport climbs, and running it between my legs keeps it out of the way untill I need it. And for the danger of it, I see it getting snagged just as likely as snagging the leg loops of my harness, and when I fall, I try not to cheese grate my grundle, which I would need to do to get it caught on a hold. I personally think there is more danger carying slings arround the shoulder (like most climbers do) than between the legs. http://www.summitpost.org/...lisk-accident/575614. If I ran it across my outter leg to my gear loop, it is much more likely to snag that way and gets in the way of draws. In fact, I think running it between your legs is the least likely to get snagged on features, aside from wadding one up and shoving it in my pocket :P (I like to give the slings a couple twists so they are snug against my leg and even less likely to droop/snag) For ease of use, I like to reach back and unclip my locker from my gear loop, let go as it swings through my legs, then re grab it and clip to the bolt, indirect in 2 seconds. What method is so much better than running it between my legs?
I know the advatages of it are small, but with no reason not to (other than the fasion argument), I don't see why I should not have it already hitched to my belay loop, ready to go, and out of the way? Please let me know what the "better" way is and why and I'll give it some consideration, but for rethreading sport anchors, I have not come across a better set up. I'd be happy to hear other's suggestions since in my 7 years of sport climbing, this is the meathod I consider best and have never had any snagging issues. (dyneema slings, not a PAS or Daisy).
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TheRucat
Dec 13, 2010, 4:38 PM
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spikeddem wrote: TheRucat wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: mattm wrote: This also bugs me. Almost as much as the lead rope over the shoulder... I haven't seen this one. They throw it over their shoulder while climbing? Yeah, before clipping the first bolt they hang the rope over their shoulder. I don't understand why. As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.
Make sense.. I do hate moving my legs whilst climbing, I suppose I'll give it a try.
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sp115
Dec 13, 2010, 5:04 PM
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"spikeddem[/quote wrote: As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements.
Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.
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LostinMaine
Dec 13, 2010, 5:08 PM
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jt512 wrote: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS
Could have just stopped right there, imo.
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TheRucat
Dec 13, 2010, 5:20 PM
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sp115 wrote: "spikeddem[/quote wrote: As far as I know, it's to avoid straddling the rope after clipping a first draw. It guarantees that the rope will be outside of your leg without having to do any extra leg movements. Clip the first draw, then pull the rope up and over your shoulder? I must not understand something, because if I was above and directly over the last draw it seems to me if I fall I could still end up with the rope between my legs. And if that happens, I'm going castrate myself and probably do the mother-of all backflips.
No, the rope is only over your shoulder before you clip the first bolt.
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ClimbSoHigh
Dec 13, 2010, 5:24 PM
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In reply to: What's up with the current rash of gumbies climbing with a PAS
I think it is because it is advertised and new. New climbers tend to go into sport first, and when learning about anchoring they will be bombarded by dozens of ways to anchor from differnt people. Maybe they feel a PAS is the best since that is what it is excplicitaly designed for. (Gumby's are told often to not improvise with gear, and to follow the mfg directions) Or maybee people that used to use daisy's switched over to the PAS. Either way, I don't get it, but more power to them as long as they use it right and don't end up a statistic. While most of us don't see the point in a PAS for sport anchors, an older generation looks at us and wonders what the point is with expensive belay devices, when a 10 cent chain link or a munter does the job for cheaper, lighter, and they do the job just fine for most situations.
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