Don't focus too much on majid's messages. I see them as more for unattached others who are reading from their armchairs. Injuries like yours make a lasting impression on the injured and on those close to them. I know.

Bill L

stop hijacking this thread and start another one then we talk more.

And anyone who learned anything from this post... you should probably go seek professional instruction. You can't learn this stuff from the internet.

And anyone who learned anything from this post... you should probably go seek professional instruction. You can't learn this stuff from the internet.

Climbing has a long history of learning from other than professional instruction. And I would not be surprised if most users on RC.com have less than 1 day of professional instruction per 100 days of climbing.

Learning on the internet has its limitations; still, I count it as one of a number of sometimes useful references. Via the internet about six months ago, I learned of the Petzl String problem when used on open slings. I have not yet heard of it from a professional nor read about it in a published book.

The internet can be great, but these mistakes are elementary. This wasn't a case of not paying attention or some freak accident. This happened because a two people were clearly practicing bad technique. Automatically yelling "clipping" whenever you get to a bolt and the belayer automatically paying out a certain amount of slack only keeps people from learning how to belay properly.

And Petzl puts out a publication every year detailing all of their gear. They clearly explain, with diagrams, why a Petzl String in not to be used with a sewn sling, and only with a Spirit Dogbone. Most gear shops give them away... for free.

You're right. I should have said "qualified" or "experienced" instead of "professional."

The internet can be great, but these mistakes are elementary. This wasn't a case of not paying attention or some freak accident. This happened because a two people were clearly practicing bad technique. Automatically yelling "clipping" whenever you get to a bolt and the belayer automatically paying out a certain amount of slack only keeps people from learning how to belay properly.

yes

My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

It would be nice if those who, like you, are willing to expose their lapses, could be spared the ad hominem attacks. It seems to be pretty hard to get analysis without some insults mixed in for good measure.

Photo of the route. Note you can match where my right hand is and reach up to the draw and easily clip. The draw is just above the lip of the roof. No criticism here, just pointing out how the route is normally climbed. Some cheat out left around the large block. Done that way, the route is not a 9+ and you then must reach down to get the clip since you didn't actually climb the roof but approached it by skirting it way left.