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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 12:33 AM
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So my wife and I are climbing this weekend. I'm on belay and she has just clipped into the anchors at the top of a 5.9, 20 meters or so up. While she is pulling through the rope, a quick-draw falls off of her harness. I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. So, my wife see what happened and apologizes from up the wall, says it won't happen again. I apologize as well and the guy comes back with a kind of rude comment. How would you respond?
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acorneau
Jul 29, 2011, 12:37 AM
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adelphos wrote: So my wife and I are climbing this weekend. I'm on belay and she has just clipped into the anchors at the top of a 5.9, 20 meters or so up. While she is pulling through the rope, a quick-draw falls off of her harness. I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. So, my wife see what happened and apologizes from up the wall, says it won't happen again. I apologize as well and the guy comes back with a kind of rude comment. How would you respond? You gave the warning of a falling object, he (seemingly) ignored that warning. His loss.
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swoopee
Jul 29, 2011, 12:41 AM
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You really did all you could do, well other than your wife not dropping the quickdraw in the first place. Don't worry about it. The other guy's a jerk. Next time she could try aiming for his head.
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 12:47 AM
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LOL, that's kind of what I figured, but just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed some kind of climbing law. I'd just hate to think what would have happened if she pulled off a flake like I had nearly done earlier in the day.
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6pacfershur
Jul 29, 2011, 12:49 AM
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this didnt happen at Metcalfe, did it?
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tory_c89
Jul 29, 2011, 12:50 AM
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OOPS SORRY
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 12:57 AM
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Nope, not sure where Metcalfe is. We were at a wall at exit 38 in Washington state.
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wonderwoman
Jul 29, 2011, 2:26 AM
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adelphos wrote: So my wife and I are climbing this weekend. I'm on belay and she has just clipped into the anchors at the top of a 5.9, 20 meters or so up. While she is pulling through the rope, a quick-draw falls off of her harness. I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. So, my wife see what happened and apologizes from up the wall, says it won't happen again. I apologize as well and the guy comes back with a kind of rude comment. How would you respond? I wouldn't respond. You did all that you could, but you cannot control the inappropriate reactions of others.
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moose_droppings
Jul 29, 2011, 3:07 AM
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adelphos wrote: So my wife and I are climbing this weekend. I'm on belay belaying and she has just clipped into the anchors at the top of a 5.9, 20 meters or so up. While she is pulling through the rope, a quick-draw falls off of her harness. I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. So, my wife see what happened and apologizes from up the wall, says it won't happen again. I apologize as well and the guy comes back with a kind of rude comment. How would you respond? You can only do so much.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 29, 2011, 3:50 AM
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I think you did the best you could. And if someone here tells you to cut their top rope don't listen, its the lack of bacon.
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Kartessa
Jul 29, 2011, 3:55 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote: I think you did the best you could. And if someone here tells you to cut their top rope don't listen, its the lack of bacon. Stop talkin, start cuttin.
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 4:28 AM
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I'm from Washington state, well I've been out here since '96 so that's long enough. We have a lot of granite and the area we were climbing in had some nice flakes to grab on but some were a little loose.
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blueeyedclimber
Jul 29, 2011, 12:14 PM
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adelphos wrote: I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. Is it me, or does it seem like the quickdraw took an abnormal amount of time to come down? Josh
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boymeetsrock
Jul 29, 2011, 1:33 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: adelphos wrote: I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. Is it me, or does it seem like the quickdraw took an abnormal amount of time to come down? Josh They use WC Helium draws.
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sungam
Jul 29, 2011, 2:12 PM
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"Could you pass me that draw, bro?"
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Ryan_moore
Jul 29, 2011, 2:14 PM
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i would respond: hey shut the fuck up i just gave you a free quick draw!
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JoeHamilton
Jul 29, 2011, 2:20 PM
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Ryan_moore wrote: i would respond: hey shut the fuck up i just gave you a free quick draw! Filed in my memory incase I'm ever in that situation
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sungam
Jul 29, 2011, 2:39 PM
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Ryan_moore wrote: i would respond: hey shut the fuck up i just gave you a free quick draw! You would let him keep the draw? Fuck that! I'd charge him for the lesson - Pay attention to what's above you and react when you head "Rock!" or "Below!".
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Kartessa
Jul 29, 2011, 3:30 PM
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I'd like to know how far over these guys were from you, that they couldn't hear you and how wandering your route was to have your climber above them and you so far. I mean if you were climbing a sport route, how far can it trend? This whole story confuses me.
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 3:54 PM
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They were pretty close, close enough that I could almost reach out and touch them. It seemed to take forever for the thing to hit the ground. It would have dropped in front of me, but it slammed into the rock about half way down and that just spun it in the direction. The thing that irked me most was just that they were so oblivious to what was going on around them. Usually when some starts yelling at the rock, everyone starts looking. Like I said earlier, what if it had really been a rock? We didn't want to give away the quick-draw as we figured with a hit like that it should be retired.
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ChalkIsCheap
Jul 29, 2011, 4:06 PM
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adelphos wrote: They were pretty close, close enough that I could almost reach out and touch them. It seemed to take forever for the thing to hit the ground. It would have dropped in front of me, but it slammed into the rock about half way down and that just spun it in the direction. The thing that irked me most was just that they were so oblivious to what was going on around them. Usually when some starts yelling at the rock, everyone starts looking. Like I said earlier, what if it had really been a rock? We didn't want to give away the quick-draw as we figured with a hit like that it should be retired. Maybe if it it hit a hard rock, but it hit a soft shoulder. Not sure about the wall hit, but if you are still feeling unsure then send it to me and i'll inspect it for ya.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 29, 2011, 4:55 PM
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Adelphos, read dropped my atc . Lol, that draw might be totally fine.
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happiegrrrl
Jul 29, 2011, 5:28 PM
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After you had yelled "rock" a couple times and seen no response, you should have yelled "Hey ASSHOLE! ROCK!" Pretty sure he definitely would have heard the "asshole," but whether you would have then had enough time to clarify why you had simply wanted to get his attention, I cannot say. At any rate - the guy probably would have launched toward you, with his partner dragged alongside trying to hold him back as he came to kick your ass. Either way - they probably wouldn't have gotten clipped by the clippy thingie. Catastrophe averted!
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 5:34 PM
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I hear you. It slammed pretty hard into the wall before it hit the guy. It was already pretty old, five years plus. It was "probably" fine, but I figure why risk someone's life to save $15.
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 5:39 PM
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LOL - you know I kind thought of that after the fact. Oh well, hopefully no next time but it there is, I'm ready.
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Khoi
Jul 29, 2011, 6:03 PM
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adelphos wrote: I hear you. It slammed pretty hard into the wall before it hit the guy. It was already pretty old, five years plus. It was "probably" fine, but I figure why risk someone's life to save $15. Must... not... burst... out... laughing . . . . . But yeah, echoing what has already been said, you did pretty much everything you could, short of tackling the guy. It could have been a real rock, which could have been fatal, but you had already taken reasonable actions. Hopefully they learn not to be so oblivous when playing outdoors.
(This post was edited by Khoi on Jul 29, 2011, 6:07 PM)
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darkgift06
Jul 29, 2011, 6:25 PM
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were they wearing helmets? maybe they thought they were protected lol
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adelphos
Jul 29, 2011, 6:58 PM
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Nope no helmets, just trusting the rock over their heads was solid...
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technogeekery
Jul 29, 2011, 7:35 PM
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adelphos wrote: The thing that irked me most ... Hey, sorry you were irked. People can be so rude when you drop things on them! It takes almost exactly 2 seconds for a 'biner to fall 20m. Well done on getting so many calls out to them in that time. Guess they are pretty dumb not to have listened to you, huh? Or maybe deaf, or perhaps just concentrating on getting their climb together? Got to say though, if I'd dropped gear on someone I'd have taken the abuse and not posted it up on RC.com...
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superchuffer
Jul 29, 2011, 7:45 PM
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throw a rock, yell 'rock' and see if they respond that time. if not, they are deaf and dumb
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boymeetsrock
Jul 29, 2011, 8:40 PM
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sungam wrote: "Could you pass me that draw, bro?" Mangus nails it!
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damienclimber
Jul 29, 2011, 9:59 PM
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technogeekery wrote: adelphos wrote: The thing that irked me most ... Hey, sorry you were irked. People can be so rude when you drop things on them! It takes almost exactly 2 seconds for a 'biner to fall 20m. Well done on getting so many calls out to them in that time. Guess they are pretty dumb not to have listened to you, huh? Or maybe deaf, or perhaps just concentrating on getting their climb together? Got to say though, if I'd dropped gear on someone I'd have taken the abuse and not posted it up on RC.com... Maybe it was wifey's fault ? If you weren't feeling guilty you would have never posted this! You should work on communication skills at the crag (after all this is just you side of the story).
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sungam
Jul 30, 2011, 12:35 PM
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damienclimber wrote: Maybe it was wifey's fault ? If you weren't feeling guilty you would have never posted this! Uh, no. I'm pretty sure he posted this because someone was a dickhead to him because they didn't understand that the crag isn't the gym, and that you have to be aware of what is going on around you.
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j_ung
Jul 30, 2011, 12:52 PM
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adelphos wrote: So my wife and I are climbing this weekend. I'm on belay and she has just clipped into the anchors at the top of a 5.9, 20 meters or so up. While she is pulling through the rope, a quick-draw falls off of her harness. I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. So, my wife see what happened and apologizes from up the wall, says it won't happen again. I apologize as well and the guy comes back with a kind of rude comment. How would you respond? There are two issues here. One is dropping gear. The other is the guy's obliviousness and rude response to the apology. Which one can you control?
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jul 30, 2011, 12:53 PM)
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carabiner96
Jul 30, 2011, 2:40 PM
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I had a similar thing happen years ago. I was at a very popular top roping crag, where at the top you can't quite see the bottom. I set my anchor, yell rope, count to 5 and hear nothing, toss it down. When I get down, there's a pissy guy in my face "You need to fuckin' tell people before you toss your rope!" I told him I did and I'm sorry he didn't hear. I hollered pretty loud, but I think it's rude to scream it, climbers a mile away don't need to know I'm about to toss down. My buddy at the bottom (who said I was loud and clear) told me later this guy was just busy macking on this girl, hanging out right at the bottom of the route instead of away from the wall like a normal person. You can't win them all.
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jbone
Jul 30, 2011, 3:01 PM
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Hold-on there.... Are you saying when you yelled rock you expected the guy to look up? Yeah, cause that's what I do when I hear rock, I look up. If I have time I try and pull my sunglasses off too so I can see who is yelling better. What Rock???
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carabiner96
Jul 30, 2011, 3:12 PM
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jbone wrote: Hold-on there.... Are you saying when you yelled rock you expected the guy to look up? Yeah, cause that's what I do when I hear rock, I look up. If I have time I try and pull my sunglasses off too so I can see who is yelling better. What Rock??? I think he expected them to have some sort of reaction (like move away from the wall) than no reaction at all. All the more reason to get your kit together a safe distance away from the wall.
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wonderwoman
Jul 30, 2011, 3:53 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: I had a similar thing happen years ago. I was at a very popular top roping crag, where at the top you can't quite see the bottom. I set my anchor, yell rope, count to 5 and hear nothing, toss it down. When I get down, there's a pissy guy in my face "You need to fuckin' tell people before you toss your rope!" I told him I did and I'm sorry he didn't hear. I hollered pretty loud, but I think it's rude to scream it, climbers a mile away don't need to know I'm about to toss down. My buddy at the bottom (who said I was loud and clear) told me later this guy was just busy macking on this girl, hanging out right at the bottom of the route instead of away from the wall like a normal person. You can't win them all. The guy should definitely not been a jerk to you. But in busy places where we can't see the bottom (like the Gunks) we yell rope as loud as we can, and then proceed to slowly lower the rope regardless of whether or not we hear a response. This whole other thread (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread) now reminds me that I recently had a rope snake gently past my face while on lead. I was at the roof (low crux) on pitch three on Bombs Away Dream Baby at the Gunks. What was our reaction? My partner informed the rappeller that he had just lowered his rope on top of me & asked him to stop. He obliged, and when I cleared the roof, I told him to go ahead and rappel. He rapped past me & by the time he was on the ledge, I was close to the top. However, the second person rapping had to wait a few minutes until I finished because the route was directly below the rappel. Had he dropped the rope on my face, my reaction might have been different (that happened to me last year on Friends & Lovers and I've never sworn so much in my life!). But he lowered, we communicated, his second waited to rap until i was done, and everyone behaved themselves!
(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Jul 30, 2011, 4:00 PM)
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carabiner96
Jul 30, 2011, 4:02 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: carabiner96 wrote: I had a similar thing happen years ago. I was at a very popular top roping crag, where at the top you can't quite see the bottom. I set my anchor, yell rope, count to 5 and hear nothing, toss it down. When I get down, there's a pissy guy in my face "You need to fuckin' tell people before you toss your rope!" I told him I did and I'm sorry he didn't hear. I hollered pretty loud, but I think it's rude to scream it, climbers a mile away don't need to know I'm about to toss down. My buddy at the bottom (who said I was loud and clear) told me later this guy was just busy macking on this girl, hanging out right at the bottom of the route instead of away from the wall like a normal person. You can't win them all. The guy should definitely not been a jerk to you. But in busy places where we can't see the bottom (like the Gunks) we yell rope as loud as we can, and then proceed to slowly lower the rope regardless of whether or not we hear a response. This whole other thread ( http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread) now reminds me that I recently had a rope snake gently past my face while on lead. I was at the roof (low crux) on pitch three on Bombs Away Dream Baby at the Gunks. What was our reaction? My partner informed the rappeller that he had just lowered his rope on top of me & asked him to stop. He obliged, and when I cleared the roof, I told him to go ahead and rappel. He rapped past me & by the time he was on the ledge, I was close to the top. However, the second person rapping had to wait a few minutes until I finished because the route was directly below the rappel. Had he dropped the rope on my face, my reaction might have been different (that happened to me last year on Friends & Lovers and I've never sworn so much in my life!). But he lowered, we communicated, his second waited to rap until i was done, and everyone behaved themselves! I totally agree on lowering when possible. This area is topped with a roller so you do have to give a bit of a chuck. Glad to hear you had a cordial, non eventful 'run-in'!
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robdotcalm
Jul 30, 2011, 4:18 PM
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Not all such incidents end badly. Yesterday, I was leading a route at Vedauwoo as a party of 2 was rappelling nearby. They threw their rope and it hit me. My partner yelled up from the ground. The rappellers started apologizing. I told them they owed me a beer. They agreed, said they had some in the car and would leave a couple of cans under my car, which they proceeded to do. rob.calm
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carabiner96
Jul 30, 2011, 4:48 PM
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robdotcalm wrote: Not all such incidents end badly. Yesterday, I was leading a route at Vedauwoo as a party of 2 was rappelling nearby. They threw their rope and it hit me. My partner yelled up from the ground. The rappellers started apologizing. I told them they owed me a beer. They agreed, said they had some in the car and would leave a couple of cans under my car, which they proceeded to do. rob.calm Nice!
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adelphos
Jul 30, 2011, 8:02 PM
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Thanks all for the feedback. We were both pretty embarrassed, but mistakes do happen. I like the comment about prepping away from the wall.
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Khoi
Jul 30, 2011, 8:08 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: adelphos wrote: I see the whole thing and immediately yell, ROCK! It hits the wall and goes spinning towards a couple next to us who are tying on shoes and just kind of stumbling in prep to start an adjacent route. I continuing to yell in their direction now, and they are oblivious. Then I'm waving at them, while I'm yelling. Still they are in lala land. Finally I watch helplessly as the guy gets a solid whack on the shoulder from the clip. Is it me, or does it seem like the quickdraw took an abnormal amount of time to come down? Josh
technogeekery wrote: adelphos wrote: The thing that irked me most ... Hey, sorry you were irked. People can be so rude when you drop things on them! It takes almost exactly 2 seconds for a 'biner to fall 20m. Well done on getting so many calls out to them in that time. Guess they are pretty dumb not to have listened to you, huh? Or maybe deaf, or perhaps just concentrating on getting their climb together? Got to say though, if I'd dropped gear on someone I'd have taken the abuse and not posted it up on RC.com... I, too, got the impression that the draw took an unnaturally long time to come down when I first read the OP. I think it is mainly due to how the OP worded the events, it makes the events seem longer and more drawn out than they may have actually been. As technogeekery pointed out, it takes about 2 seconds for a draw to fall 20m. However, that's only if it's in free fall. If the rock face were less than vertical, then the draw could have slid and/or bounced and/or rolled and/or scraped down, which could take significantly longer than 2 seconds. But even then, 2 seconds is sufficient time to clearly, loudly, and distinctly shout "ROCK!" 2 or 3 times. And it doesn't really take any time to start waving your arms. And yeah, when you're at the crags/cliff/mountain/etc. and you hear "ROCK!" or "ICE!", it's a matter of get to a safe spot and/or cover and protect your head FIRST and look around later!
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smallclimber
Jul 31, 2011, 1:55 AM
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I guess your wife didn't realise she had dropped the draw and she didn't call out rock as well?. Normally you do expect such calls to come from above and having someone shouting on the ground at you might not have the same effect as a scream from above? Maybe they did hear you but could not think why someone on ground level was shouting? Sounds like there was no real damage done, so don't worry too much, just try to keep all gear secure another time.
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adelphos
Jul 31, 2011, 2:46 AM
Post #48 of 49
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Registered: Jul 27, 2011
Posts: 56
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My wife didn't know that the clip had come loose until I started yelling. When it fell she had just clipped into the chains at the top and was working on pulling the rope over to tie back in. We honestly don't know how it came loose, as near as we can tell she had clipped it into a gear loop on the way up and must have bumped it just the right way. Certainly keeping gear more secure is best possible solution. But again, things happen. People drop stuff, accidents happen to the best of us. We were contrite and apologetic. I would like to think that if I had been hit with a rope or a clip even after someone had been desperately trying to warn me, that I would be more upset with myself for not being aware of what was going on around me. I would like to think that I would have the grace to say thanks for at least trying to warn me. Regardless, I'm loosing no sleep on this one.
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robx
Jul 31, 2011, 2:36 PM
Post #49 of 49
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Registered: Jan 11, 2011
Posts: 108
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I agree that there wasn't much more you could do to prevent him from getting whacked (other than spearing him into safety), but that dude probably isn't a dick or an asshole or anything else this board is saying. He's a guy that got whacked on the head with a draw from pretty high, and was oblivious to it until it was on top of him. Not really your fault, he could have prevented it by being more aware, but him being upset or pissy isn't uncalled for. I mean if this was a poster the other way around that said "I was standing there, and then a draw just hit me, and the guy did nothing other than briefly apologize and go back to climbing!", who wouldn't take his side? I'm just saying there are two sides to every story, and getting upset when you are hit with a draw isn't unreasonable.
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