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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #80201 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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Dammit! Don't make me take yore badge.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #80202 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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drivel wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. and i want a grey C3. dang. mist the pt. is the grey the 00 or the 000? 000 yeah, 00 is purple, and we're already buddies. theoretically, both are aid pieces, but I'd totally fall on the purple guy.
I fall on anything... even decent trails.
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #80203 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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oh wait. too late.
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:25 PM
Post #80204 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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Gah. Teh greenies travel in packs. Even when they're not green no mo.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:28 PM
Post #80205 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t Scale? *shitz pantz in rage* I have been nine days on the trot under 190.
The trots will do that to ya. I've been there. Best thing for weight loss is a good two week bout of dysentery! Works every time!
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:45 PM
Post #80206 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda....
Yeah, I have a few of those still... and they get so little use they still look new. I've placed them a few times at ERock and other granite crags but not as much as the mastercams that I now use instead. I don't mind the masters. Although like most I usually place a TCU in those smaller sizes.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 3:51 PM
Post #80207 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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snoopy138 wrote: will keep that in mind. If I bring an iPad out there, is there anywhere with wifi?
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 3:53 PM
Post #80208 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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macherry wrote: granite_grrl wrote: macherry wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t i could use your scale So there was a sunflower seed under one of the feet throwing things off....I am not, in fact, as light as I thought I was.  i haven't had a scale in years. i use the clothing test to see if i've lost weight. sorry about the seed
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:54 PM
Post #80209 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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Diphthong wrote: camhead wrote: imnotclever wrote: snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: drivel wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. and i want a grey C3. dang. mist the pt. is the grey the 00 or the 000? 000 yeah, 00 is purple, and we're already buddies. theoretically, both are aid pieces, but I'd totally fall on the purple guy. Durp. Well, I don't know that I'm excited to fall on the perple, but I keep it racked. I dunno, maybe it's mental, but the gray looks so much more delicate to me. I really wouldn't wuntz to fall on it. I watched clikker take repeated 30'ers on his purple TCU at the T-wall. Made my anoose pucker. should have figured owt a way to get that thing to pop owt. I've got one of the WC zeros I could donate for klikker to bomb onto. Whoa, you climb? Me too! Would you label yourself more a Sport or a Trad climber?
Labels are for first year college tea parties.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 4:00 PM
Post #80210 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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snoopy138 wrote: Reading through the RRG routes on MP, it seems like there's a lot of info about "sit-down rests" and "lie-down rests", and shit like this: vtg wrote: the trick to the lie-down rest is to keep scooting down until your feet are pretty much in the bush. it feels weird and uncomfortable until you get that far- once there, though, its pretty sweet. really good- not really a .12a, imho- if the rest wasn't there, though, it'd definitely be .12ish. I'm all for smart climbing, but this seems to be a bit excessive.
Hah! "If the rest wasn't there..."
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 4:02 PM
Post #80211 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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meatbomz wrote: drivel wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Diphthong wrote: chossmonkey wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: Oh yeah, and I wuntz mah blue camalot back! Give the gear back Dan!  That does suck. Sorry about your bluey! Hope it shows up someplace. The meat up was fucking grate. Many climbs were climbed. Many hikes were hiked. Jack slipped up once and called his trekking pole a cane. I felt like I was going to fall of the Main Wall ledge many times. I wanted to cuddle the terrierist, but was repeatedly rebuffed. Peeps have talked about a lot of stuff already, I will chime in to say that the shirts are sweet! Cutting stencils is fun. Also, the nailers shirt should be one of the pink ones. For gayness. Like mine. Where the fuck is my t-shirt? [image]http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS1b21MNTh3Bij7uUpNsSLK0I6CHAcOCgWyauAPRE-gtqh5J37Glg[/image] Thats Dribble's shirt. I'm wearing that shirt right now. I wore my g3rk meatup shirt today. It's funny how the "K" icon is a klown, but it's in the clikker howl of rage pose.
I washed mine but it still has some kind of syhphillitic stain on it. I will wear it next time climbing though.
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jakedatc
Aug 25, 2011, 4:06 PM
Post #80212 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: will keep that in mind. If I bring an iPad out there, is there anywhere with wifi? both Linda's and Miguel's have WiFi, though I remember thinking that Linda's was a little slow.
Linda's was a bit slow but good enough for GU and checking email and such. they have a set monthly data rate so they don't want people using youtube etc anyway. linda's is free with your camping though. miguels you have to pay for the week or zachariah a copy of the code from someone.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 4:11 PM
Post #80213 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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Diphthong wrote: Sitting in the Presidential Lounge at George Bush International, about to embark on a mission of sekrit radness. What would be rad is if they had a fucking couch to lie down on.
You'd think a lounge would have a couch.
What are you the president of?
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snoopy138
Aug 25, 2011, 4:14 PM
Post #80214 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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Diphthong wrote: Sitting in the Presidential Lounge at George Bush International, about to embark on a mission of sekrit radness. What would be rad is if they had a fucking couch to lie down on.
I take it yore not climbing this weke end, then?
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camhead
Aug 25, 2011, 4:16 PM
Post #80215 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: will keep that in mind. If I bring an iPad out there, is there anywhere with wifi? both Linda's and Miguel's have WiFi, though I remember thinking that Linda's was a little slow.
Yeah, Linda has something weird like a monthly data limit on her wifi. No streaming videos, no downloads, the BET would porbably crash her system.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 25, 2011, 4:22 PM
Post #80216 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
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granite_grrl wrote: chossmonkey wrote:  Best mark my spot with something very visible so i don't skim by it. w00t! Sent another route at that cliff yesterday, it's the route people normally send before they start working the one in the photo. In some ways it took me longer to send then it should have, but considering how few routes I've done in this range I was pretty happy with how fast it went down,
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wanderlustmd
Aug 25, 2011, 4:25 PM
Post #80217 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
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It seems break-ins are getting more common everywhere. A friend in Squamish says they are through the roof there. I never used to think about that at all, but I think I'll be taking the Acopa sticker off my cah.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 4:33 PM
Post #80218 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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wanderlustmd wrote: It seems break-ins are getting more common everywhere. A friend in Squamish says they are through the roof there. I never used to think about that at all, but I think I'll be taking the Acopa sticker off my cah.
I'd say through the window is more common though.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #80219 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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wanderlustmd wrote: It seems break-ins are getting more common everywhere. A friend in Squamish says they are through the roof there. I never used to think about that at all, but I think I'll be taking the Acopa sticker off my cah.
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kachoong
Aug 25, 2011, 4:39 PM
Post #80220 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: It seems break-ins are getting more common everywhere. A friend in Squamish says they are through the roof there. I never used to think about that at all, but I think I'll be taking the Acopa sticker off my cah. There's this guy on Ontario Climbing who was soooo excited about his custom license plate: "climber". If I was going to break into a car I know which one I would choose.
IMALOYER??
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 4:42 PM
Post #80221 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7073
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kachoong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t Scale? *shitz pantz in rage* I have been nine days on the trot under 190. The trots will do that to ya. I've been there. Best thing for weight loss is a good two week bout of dysentery! Works every time!
combine with food poisoning for ab toning aswell!
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camhead
Aug 25, 2011, 4:47 PM
Post #80223 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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kachoong wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: It seems break-ins are getting more common everywhere. A friend in Squamish says they are through the roof there. I never used to think about that at all, but I think I'll be taking the Acopa sticker off my cah. I'd say through the window is more common though.
Comedy Gold!
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jakedatc
Aug 25, 2011, 4:48 PM
Post #80224 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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INC you see this post on bikeforums today? bahaha 
In reply to: i was getting worried about this hurricane... but then i found out that it's only a Cat5. i figure it'll probably burn itself out long before it gets here or crash into another storm. |
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camhead
Aug 25, 2011, 4:54 PM
Post #80225 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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jakedatc wrote: INC you see this post on bikeforums today? bahaha In reply to: i was getting worried about this hurricane... but then i found out that it's only a Cat5. i figure it'll probably burn itself out long before it gets here or crash into another storm.
awesome. almost as good as my joke that the recent quake was a "Gunks 5.9."
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