what the hell?

Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS.

So here is the crag:
http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry

M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff.

So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame).
Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route.

After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope...

So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had.

I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit.

Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one.

He back clips that one, too.

So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride.


So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in.

M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud.

He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit).
So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on.

So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope.

So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that.

There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah!

The pamphlet I'm working on..."Tech tips fore teh PTFTW".

Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch.

It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt

Cool. How the approach to the crag. As long of a hoof as advertized?

Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS.

So here is the crag:
http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry

M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff.

So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame).
Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route.

After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope...

So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had.

I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit.

Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one.

He back clips that one, too.

So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride.


So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in.

M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud.

He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit).
So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on.

So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope.

So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that.

There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah!

it was a bit of a hike, but not toooo bad... I felt tahquitz and el cajon were worse

Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch.

It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt

Also went to temecula and drank wine

Trapain Law.

Wow crazy day dude.
Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine.
But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different.

edit speilink

Sunzburnz! Aw naw!

Is it a canyon or something (@rap in)?

Ick!!!!

What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different.

Notice where the climber is actually taking the rope to clip vs. where the climber should take the rope.

[image]http://www.indoorclimbing.com/images/quickdrawZclip.gif[/image]

battling a stiff cold. not climbing this weekend. cough-cough. got work to do anyway.

did i mention i found an apartment? cheap, too. will have one roommate. he doesn't speak english. my portuguese is going to improve dramatically (me hopes).

Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow.

Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border

Wow crazy day dude.
Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine.
But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different.

edit speilink