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climbingtrash
Sep 26, 2011, 12:14 AM
Post #31251 of 45342
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The pamphlet I'm working on..."Tech tips fore teh PTFTW".
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climbingtrash
Sep 26, 2011, 12:14 AM
Post #31252 of 45342
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wo0!?!
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climbingtrash
Sep 26, 2011, 12:14 AM
Post #31253 of 45342
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Beiner block teh shit outta that rap.
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Kartessa
Sep 26, 2011, 4:13 AM
Post #31254 of 45342
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Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 9:57 AM
Post #31255 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah!
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 10:01 AM
Post #31256 of 45342
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Heh, I was still laffing about that like hours later. He uncliped both draws! BWwahahahahaha! Here's a b0mbz just cuz.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 26, 2011, 12:47 PM
Post #31257 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! wow, he was damn lucky eh? I probably would have lowered him at some point after so many fuck ups, but it sounds as if you tried to get him right and he didn't get it before it came to that. I wanted to go there when I was there, but never got out to it. Only ever made it to Trapain Law.
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erisspirit
Sep 26, 2011, 4:05 PM
Post #31258 of 45342
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt
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erisspirit
Sep 26, 2011, 4:10 PM
Post #31259 of 45342
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Also went to temecula and drank wine
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donald949
Sep 26, 2011, 5:35 PM
Post #31260 of 45342
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climbingtrash wrote: The pamphlet I'm working on..."Tech tips fore teh PTFTW". There you go.
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donald949
Sep 26, 2011, 5:47 PM
Post #31261 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt Cool. How the approach to the crag. As long of a hoof as advertized?
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erisspirit
Sep 26, 2011, 6:12 PM
Post #31262 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: erisspirit wrote: Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt Cool. How the approach to the crag. As long of a hoof as advertized? it was a bit of a hike, but not toooo bad... I felt tahquitz and el cajon were worse
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donald949
Sep 26, 2011, 6:15 PM
Post #31263 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink
(This post was edited by donald949 on Sep 26, 2011, 6:17 PM)
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donald949
Sep 26, 2011, 6:18 PM
Post #31264 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: donald949 wrote: erisspirit wrote: Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt Cool. How the approach to the crag. As long of a hoof as advertized? it was a bit of a hike, but not toooo bad... I felt tahquitz and el cajon were worse OK. Tahq is quite the push.
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 8:02 PM
Post #31265 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt Sunzburnz! Aw naw! Is it a canyon or something (@rap in)?
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 8:02 PM
Post #31266 of 45342
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erisspirit wrote: Also went to temecula and drank wine Chilling out after a long day is gud.
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 8:03 PM
Post #31267 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Trapain Law. Ick!!!!
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sungam
Sep 26, 2011, 8:03 PM
Post #31268 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink Z-clipping is when the rope goes 1st bolt 3rd bolt second bolt, instead of 1st bolt 2nd bolt 3rd bolt. It adds mad rope drag and makes it so even though the 3rd bolt is clipped, you will fall as if just the second one is. Really only possible when the bolts are close together.
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erisspirit
Sep 26, 2011, 8:05 PM
Post #31269 of 45342
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sungam wrote: erisspirit wrote: Went to Corte Madera this weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was my first trip out there. We all rapped in and the pair showing us around went to work on their project. Four of us were at the base and none had been leading a lot, but the easiest way back out was a 10a (I'd been very wimpy and only leading 8's and 9's)...They left a TR up just in case we totally wimped out. I lead some other climb first, and In the end I put on my big girl undies and lead the out to the first ledge. Up there a newer easy route had been put up so I did a nice easy lead to the last pitch. I ended up following one of the others on the last pitch. It was a good day... now I'm tired and sunburnt Sunzburnz! Aw naw! Is it a canyon or something (@rap in)? Its a cliff with a steep hill. I think there used to be a trail from the base to a service road, but its pretty much over grown and much longer. I guess the way everyone does it is hike to the top, rap in, then climb out at the end of the day
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Gmburns2000
Sep 26, 2011, 8:22 PM
Post #31270 of 45342
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Trapain Law. Ick!!!! yeah, but the mustard fields in the wind are really quite pretty to watch.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 26, 2011, 8:32 PM
Post #31272 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: donald949 wrote: What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. Notice where the climber is actually taking the rope to clip vs. where the climber should take the rope. [image]http://www.indoorclimbing.com/images/quickdrawZclip.gif[/image] not a great visual, but you can get the idea of what he did wrong by watching very closely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ2xyX40H4A he grabs the belayor's end of the rope, not his end, or, in other words, the rope that is below the previous clip that he has already clipped in to, and then he clips with that end of the rope the next clip. When he climbs up, you can see it very easily. He starts to z-clip at around the 40 second mark. I didn't watch the video after he fixed it. The way to fix it? unclip the lower of the two biners (i.e. - leave your top clip in and take out the one below it).
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 12:07 AM
Post #31273 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: battling a stiff cold. not climbing this weekend. cough-cough. got work to do anyway. did i mention i found an apartment? cheap, too. will have one roommate. he doesn't speak english. my portuguese is going to improve dramatically (me hopes). win/win Apartment and language immersion in one.
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #31274 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon]
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notapplicable
Sep 27, 2011, 12:28 AM
Post #31275 of 45342
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donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? Okay, I was kinda tired last night so here's the full rundown, because it was fucking HILARIOUS. So here is the crag: http://scottishclimbs.com/...h_Berwick_Law_Quarry M had only lead in the gym, and I guess that was last term. I thought he knew about z-clips and back clips and all that fun stuff. So first all 4 of us lead the (wild iris) 5+ warm-up thing, it was pretty easy, then me and M went over and did law and disorder, a 6a+. I OS'ed it and M flashed it on TR in GREAT form, since he had topped out at 6a+ last term, this was a plus (he has good technique but he was weak as all hell and over the summer he did a bunch of pull-ups on a bar and repeaters on a door frame). Then he wanted to lead a different 6a+, so he jumped on Darkness Falling, which he did very smoothly, though he got a tiny bit off route halfway up, but he noticed and got back on route. After that he decided he wanted to lead a 6b, and old lawbreaker was right there so he jumped on it. This is when I realised he wasn't totally clear on back clips, z clips, and keep your heel out from behind the rope... So he climbs up no problems till he tries to z-clip the second bolt, I explain what's going on and he face palms. He makes some awesome moves with his magical polish technique, then he was in a position you could just tell was out of balance and just barely on. He clips the draw. Then he back-clips it, and falls off. Of course since he is about level with it there was no death unclipping of deemz to be had. I told him it was back clipped, but he was way to sketched to unclip it, cuz he was kinda far above the bolt below and the route kinda went slab-bulge-slab and he was right on the lip of the next slab, so he would kinda splat onto the slab below. There was also a big ledge halfway up the buldge that he might hit. Anyways, I tell him to just clip a draw above the first one and clip that one normally. so he clips the draw, and grabs both so he can pull some slack and clip the top one. He back clips that one, too. So I shout up that he should unclip the second one and clip it right. He screws around and is having trouble unclipping the top one, and somehow BOTH draws come unclipped and he has a gallon of slack in his hands. I saw him start to unclip the second draw and I was just about to shout "don't unclip that!" when his foot popped and he took the ride. So he starts falling, there is a LOT of fucking slack out, so I start running backwards and try to yard some slack through the grigri. All this really does is cause me to elbow Joe really hard and almost fall over cuz he was standing right behind me. So I didn't get much slack in. M hit the ledge with his right foot after around 5 feet of falling, and inverted. then he fell another 15+ feet upsidedown, straight into the slab. In my head the distances are further, but I'm not sure if that is memory growth, so I'ma go with conservitive guesses. Some people from the other group at the crag started to run over to see if he was okay when he started laughing really loud. He was like "whoah, what the fuck happened? hahahaha!" we talked about it and laughed a lot, then some dumbass from the other group tried to lecture us on helmets (he was belaying his son on TR from a single bolt and doing all kidas of other stupid shit). So then I decided I wanted to try to OS a 7a+, and I fell all over it. In fact I got so flamed out I couldn't finish it. I got to the last bolt but couldn't make the sloper moves to the chains (oh for a stick clip!). So we left the rope hanging and M said he wanted to finish of the 6b he whipped on. So he jumps back on it and whips at the same place, but without the slack. A pretty casual fall. He jumps back on gets a little higher and tries to clip from there. He pulls through a little slack to clip and his foot pops. Having clearer a path behind me I take a couple steps back, not wanting him to hit the slab again (cuz I was pretty sure his lucky-o-meter was nearing empty). But he didn't fall, he kinda barn doored way out and flagged deeply to stop it (that magic natural technique). It was actually pretty cool, except his leg was way the fuck behind the rope. So he moved around a little, got his feet straight, and tried to go even higher, but he fell - right when I was going to tell him to get his foot out from behind the rope. So he flipped and was kinda half sideways as he glanced off the ledge again, hurting his elbow, and he smacked into the slab upside down again. Again he was fine except his hip hurt a little. So he did the 5+ and cleaned the draws from that. There were a few more small whips in there somewhere, but I can't really remember them. Anyways, I thought it was fracking hilarious when he fell the first time. How did his foot pop only once he had BOTh draws unclipped and a fuck ton of slack?? bwahahahah! Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink OMG, YGD nOOb!
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