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McMonk


Jan 1, 2012, 11:11 PM
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Strict Gym Rules?
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It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 2, 2012, 12:03 AM)


marc801


Jan 1, 2012, 11:35 PM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old.

SO I'm not completely clueless.


I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?
Of the two bolded statements, the first negates the second.
Suck it up and deal with the rules. They are established by a conversation between the owner(s) and their insurance company.


McMonk


Jan 1, 2012, 11:43 PM
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Re: [marc801] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Suck it up and deal with the rules. They are established by a conversation between the owner(s) and their insurance company.

Valid point. I know to suck it up. In fact, the rest of the day went rather well, the purpose of this was to try and see if people think this is strict in comparison to what they have experienced.

Edit: I'm 16, yes. However, I ask that you give me the benefit of the doubt in that I'm a little bit smarter than the average teen. I'm currently on the track to receiving an associates degree one semester after graduating from high school.


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 1, 2012, 11:48 PM)


marc801


Jan 2, 2012, 12:46 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
Valid point. I know to suck it up. In fact, the rest of the day went rather well, the purpose of this was to try and see if people think this is strict in comparison to what they have experienced.
There are seemingly arbitrary rules at many if not most gyms - sometimes similar, sometimes different. What you encountered doesn't seem particularly out of line, other than perhaps the employee giving you the belay test was a bit of a prick on a power trip.

McMonk wrote:
Edit: I'm 16, yes. However, I ask that you give me the benefit of the doubt in that I'm a little bit smarter than the average teen. I'm currently on the track to receiving an associates degree one semester after graduating from high school.
I don't doubt you're smart. The cluelessness comes from a lack of experience in how the world works - you simply haven't put in enough life time yet. In a mere 5 years you'll be surprised if not shocked at what you thought you knew!


Express


Jan 2, 2012, 12:54 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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Better get used to it. I've been to probably 5 or 6 different gyms at this point, and each one has their little irksome things with belay tests. One gym allowed no Gri-Gri's, another allowed ONLY Gri-Gri's, one gym required slide-slide method when belaying with ATC, another required you to use hand-over-hand with ATC. Some require double fisherman's, others allow yosemite follow-through for your backup.

The best thing to do is find out ahead of time what the local requirements will be and do exactly what is required there. The main thing I don't like is having to pay for a test at every new gym I go to. Going through the motions is actually a good thing to keep you sharp, but for an experienced climber to have to pay for it every time you visit a new gym is just weak, IMO.

Just keep in mind that the employee is just trying to do his job as best as he knows how, and it is his job to assume that you do not know anything. The most dangerous element in the gyms is overconfident folk who think they know what they are doing, and this is basically their best chance to catch those folks and course-correct before anyone gets hurt.

HTH


McMonk


Jan 2, 2012, 12:56 AM
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Re: [marc801] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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Ah. Thank you for clarifying. I misinterpreted what you had originally meant. I have no doubt that I have plenty more to learn. Additionally, thank you for your input.


McMonk


Jan 2, 2012, 1:02 AM
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Express wrote:
The most dangerous element in the gyms is overconfident folk who think they know what they are doing, and this is basically their best chance to catch those folks and course-correct before anyone gets hurt.

HTH

True, true. Well put


rtwilli4


Jan 2, 2012, 1:07 AM
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All gyms are different. The gym I used to go to in NC tested you if you wanted to lead climb, but not if you wanted to TR. Weird, because a bad belayer can drop someone in either circumstance.

Also, they never tested me because they know me. I've never climbed with any of the staff or owners - they just know me through friends and whatnot. But that was enough to let it slide I guess.

One of gyms I climb at in London doesn't test anyone for anything. The other gym I climb at in London makes you belay, catch a TR fall, lower and tie in with a fig 8 before you can even set foot in the gym. If you are going with a friend who has already been certified, you can go as their guest but they stamp your hand NOVICE.

There are a lot of people working at climbing gyms that don't know much about climbing. Many of then have never climbed outside. The second London gym - when I was working in Thailand (before I had ever climbed at the gym), one of their employees was on holiday and hired me to teach him how to climb multi-pitch. I thought it was a bit strange when he told me that he was working at a gym (as an instructor no less).

Sounds like you just got an extra enthusiastic dude to test you. That, and he probably doesn't know much about climbing so he is making sure to do everything EXACTLY as he was taught - can't fault him for that.

Just follow the rules and try not to be rude.

BTW I like the Spanish idea. And I can't imagine that they will come and kick you out if you use Spanish commands. That would be discriminatory.


acorneau


Jan 2, 2012, 1:57 AM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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rtwilli4 wrote:
All gyms are different.

...There are a lot of people working at climbing gyms that don't know much about climbing.

... That, and he probably doesn't know much about climbing so he is making sure to do everything EXACTLY as he was taught - can't fault him for that.

Just follow the rules and try not to be rude.


All true.

I work in a gym (setting) and have been to multiple gyms in other cities/states. There are many folks working in gyms that are just "following directions" and don't really know squat outside the gym.

Don't worry about it, just do as they ask, and get your climbing in.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jan 2, 2012, 1:57 PM)


notapplicable


Jan 2, 2012, 3:07 AM
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That pretty much sounds like the SOP for gyms I've climbed at on the east coast.

I have found that once you become something of a "regular", you can get away with ignoring a lot of the basic gym rules. Just get to know the staff a bit and show them you aren't dangerous and you should be able to fly under the radar.


shockabuku


Jan 2, 2012, 3:55 AM
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Typical. Some gyms are progressive enough to be flexible, most are flexible once they realize you're not an idiot who will probably cause them a lawsuit, and some are staffed and/or run by people who are paranoid and inflexible. Pass the test, observe what happens around you, and you'll probably realize that no one is paying attention once you get past the "gate".


guangzhou


Jan 2, 2012, 4:55 AM
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Doesn't seem overly strict. You did a couple of things differently from what they expected, he corrected you and had you adjust to what is expected in that facility.

Strict would would be, we require a double fisherman here, you fail.

You knot isn't dressed! you fail.

Universal command should be done in English, you fail.

Bottom line, you are new to a new facility and no-one there knows you. The gym should be cautions, once they say you've passed the test, they are telling all their members you are good enough to belay them.

From your post, you also seem to come across as a bit arrogant, maybe the gym staff who tested you caught some of your attitude and decided to give it back.

Cheers
Eman


superchuffer


Jan 2, 2012, 2:15 PM
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until a national standard is set, you just have to deal with it. the gym in albuquerque doesn't allow headphones. seriously. they say it is safety, but they really just have control issues.


Partner j_ung


Jan 2, 2012, 4:00 PM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Suck it up and deal with the rules. They are established by a conversation between the owner(s) and their insurance company.

Valid point. I know to suck it up. In fact, the rest of the day went rather well, the purpose of this was to try and see if people think this is strict in comparison to what they have experienced.

Edit: I'm 16, yes. However, I ask that you give me the benefit of the doubt in that I'm a little bit smarter than the average teen. I'm currently on the track to receiving an associates degree one semester after graduating from high school.

You write better than most adults I know, which gives you a leg up in my book.

I've managed three different climbing gyms and climbed at countless others. What I've learned in that time is that the ownership has the prerogative to exert a bizarre amount of control over the environment. Unfortunately, many choose to do so. Your best bet when taking a belay test at any new gym is to ask—before beginning the test—what are the criteria for passing.

It sounds like you're on the right track with the suck-it-up attitude. Your only other choice is not to climb there. But for the record, I agree that their rules are stupidly strict, apparently with little regard for the judgment of climbers. (I also wholly disagree with mandating a specific belay device.) Is it possible to just suck it up for the test, and then revert to your own system once the staff isn't breathing down your neck?


cclarke


Jan 2, 2012, 5:52 PM
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I once brought a friend of mine to the local gym. He's an accomplished climber. In fact, there was an article about him in the then-current Rock & Ice. At that time, he frequently rope-soloed long 5.12 trad routes in winter.

The gym employee, who may or may not have ever climbed outside, failed him on his belay test for pretty vague reasons.

We had a good laugh about that one.


NorCaNomad


Jan 2, 2012, 6:06 PM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

Just roll with it man.

Also you weren't climbing staff, you were climbing staff in training since you have to be 18 to be full climbing staff Tongue (Source: me being a National Camp School instructor for climbing)


majid_sabet


Jan 2, 2012, 6:14 PM
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McMonk wrote:
It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM

I do not know about the gym rules but your resume is outstanding

now put your helmet on


Partner cracklover


Jan 2, 2012, 6:35 PM
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LOL, you ain't seen nothin' yet. Everyone has a slightly different belay test. Learn all the variations on standard stuff, and you'll be fine. I've never had an issue with my belay test at any gym I've been to.

You want some real entertainment, check out Carabiners in southern MA sometime. They're a hoot!

Here's a few choice snippets from my review of the place:

In reply to:
We arrived with our forms all filled out, ready to take our belay tests and go. Unfortunately, it didn't work out quite like that. Despite the fact that the place was almost entirely empty, it was fully an hour and a half before they were able to give us our lead belay tests and get us on the wall.

<snip>

Here are just a few of the rules:

You must belay with a gri-gri (TR or lead).
The belayer must anchor in (TR or lead).
The belayer's anchor point must not be taut to the floor at any time.
The belay biner must be oriented so the locking sleeve screws *down* rather than *up*.

My partner got two permanent demerits on his membership entered into the computer (I'm not kidding!) for 1 - having his belay biner oriented incorrectly, and 2 - not having enough slack in his anchor line (because he stepped back two feet to get the rope out of my way as I was climbing).

We were not horsing around, or in any other way calling negative attention to ourselves. We just went there to climb. If you have a short fuse, don't even step in the door, it'll be ugly! We just let it roll off us; we were amused.

It's particularly irksome because the worst of the safety police on staff didn't seem to know anything about climbing. For example, I was reprimanded for Z-clipping, when I was doing no such thing - the girl simply had learned the wrong definition of the word.

We did also have a very positive interaction with one of the staff members. The guy who gave us our belay test was knowledgable, friendly, and reasonable. He was also clearly a climber. He even shared an interesting technical tip he'd read about recently for lead belaying with a gri-gri. He was also kind of apologetic about the gym's "issues".

<snipped the rest of review>

You can read my full review here if you're interested.

Cheers,

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jan 2, 2012, 6:38 PM)


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 1:05 AM
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Re: [NorCaNomad] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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NorCaNomad wrote:
McMonk wrote:
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

Just roll with it man.

Also you weren't climbing staff, you were climbing staff in training since you have to be 18 to be full climbing staff Tongue (Source: me being a National Camp School instructor for climbing)

Well, I figured for all intents and purposes I would just use with climbing staff. Tongue Then again, the kid working as the office manager DID put the wrong thing on my contract.

EDIT: What year(s) were you the camp school instructor?


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 3, 2012, 1:09 AM)


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 1:08 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

I do not know about the gym rules but your resume is outstanding

now put your helmet on

Not sure how to take this. Is this supposed to be sarcastic, therefore insulting me? Or am I supposed to interpret it as I am doing fairly well given my age?


petsfed


Jan 3, 2012, 1:33 AM
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McMonk wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I do not know about the gym rules but your resume is outstanding

now put your helmet on

Not sure how to take this. Is this supposed to be sarcastic, therefore insulting me? Or am I supposed to interpret it as I am doing fairly well given my age?

You're supposed to blow off virtually everything Majid says.

My experience from climbing gyms: every 16 year old, without fail, is an arrogant little prick. The odds of a 16 year old being wrong about anything is pretty much proportional to the amount of experience they claim on the subject. When you work day-in and day-out dealing with that, you learn to just assume the worst, as that way you don't have to watch a bad accident unfold in front of you.

Does that mean I have a bad attitude? Maybe. But I guarantee I'm a hell of a lot more sympathetic to the victims of idiots than to the idiots themselves.


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 2:06 AM
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petsfed wrote:

My experience from climbing gyms: every 16 year old, without fail, is an arrogant little prick. The odds of a 16 year old being wrong about anything is pretty much proportional to the amount of experience they claim on the subject. When you work day-in and day-out dealing with that, you learn to just assume the worst, as that way you don't have to watch a bad accident unfold in front of you.

Does that mean I have a bad attitude? Maybe. But I guarantee I'm a hell of a lot more sympathetic to the victims of idiots than to the idiots themselves.

I appreciate your input, however, your response was a little off topic, as the question is do you think the gym rules were strict in comparison to gyms readers have had experiences at.

At the risk of further derailing the topic: Am I 16? Yes. Am I a prick? Maybe. Am I arrogant? Maybe. Your post was about your experience with 16 year old gym climbers. Implying the same would apply to me (if not, then you were posting a random rant). Therefore, I would say that statement would imply an equally haughty essence as you believe 16 year old individuals have.


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 3, 2012, 2:07 AM)


acorneau


Jan 3, 2012, 2:29 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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NorCaNomad wrote:
Also you weren't climbing staff, you were climbing staff in training since you have to be 18 to be full climbing staff Tongue (Source: me being a National Camp School instructor for climbing)

Correction: he was "camp staff" and he was a "climbing instructor in training".

McMonk wrote:
EDIT: What year(s) were you the camp school instructor?


-Climbing Director since '99
-Faculty for C&R Director classes at Philmont's NCS since 2000 (except for '08 and '11).

(edits for clarity/correction)


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jan 3, 2012, 4:20 PM)


guangzhou


Jan 3, 2012, 2:32 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
petsfed wrote:

My experience from climbing gyms: every 16 year old, without fail, is an arrogant little prick. The odds of a 16 year old being wrong about anything is pretty much proportional to the amount of experience they claim on the subject. When you work day-in and day-out dealing with that, you learn to just assume the worst, as that way you don't have to watch a bad accident unfold in front of you.

Does that mean I have a bad attitude? Maybe. But I guarantee I'm a hell of a lot more sympathetic to the victims of idiots than to the idiots themselves.

I appreciate your input, however, your response was a little off topic, as the question is do you think the gym rules were strict in comparison to gyms readers have had experiences at.

At the risk of further derailing the topic: Am I 16? Yes. Am I a prick? Maybe. Am I arrogant? Maybe. Your post was about your experience with 16 year old gym climbers. Implying the same would apply to me (if not, then you were posting a random rant). Therefore, I would say that statement would imply an equally haughty essence as you believe 16 year old individuals have.

I think his answer was spot on and on topic. I also think the belay test should be strict. It's easy to claim experience, but the staff doesn't know you from Adam.

You didn't fail this test, you were critic and told what the gym expectations were several times. You went in thinking your knew something, you never asked the gym what their criteria are.

Arrogant, from this post, I believe you are.
Experienced in climbing, why, because you were a 16 year old on climbing staff at a BSA camp, please. Get over yourself.

As a gym owner, I agree, 16 year old who walk in my facilities talking about all their knowledge are a bigger hazard than the 16 year old who have never touched a climbing rope.

You passed the test, you're upset because you didn't 100% based on the staff critic. Guess what, regardless of finishing you associated degree at 16, you're not perfect.


acorneau


Jan 3, 2012, 2:38 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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guangzhou wrote:
Arrogant, from this post, I believe you are.


Thank you, Yoda.


6pacfershur


Jan 3, 2012, 2:50 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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you know you hit rock-bottom when you get flamed by guangzhou....


petsfed


Jan 3, 2012, 3:02 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
I appreciate your input, however, your response was a little off topic, as the question is do you think the gym rules were strict in comparison to gyms readers have had experiences at.

Sorry, I dropped an important phrase from my qualifier. "My experience from climbing gyms I've worked at:..."

I am the sort of safety nazi who would tell you that you didn't dress your knot perfectly (which you didn't if the gym guy had to correct it, and if you don't know why knot dressing can be important, then you really aren't in a position to criticize the rules that require it), although I make a point of explaining, when I teach these things, that it doesn't matter half as much as other parts of the knot. All of that said, if I signed off on a person who could not do things according to what our insurance policies demand of us, I would've made the gym, and by extension ME, liable for injuries incurred. You should check out BSA's old climbing policy (provided they've changed it since I cycled through that crap) and compare it to accepted practices today. The Boy Scouts were pretty bad about pulling "safety" rules more or less out of thin air, and I'm pretty glad that I never climbed with the Scouts outside of climbing gyms because of that.

I used to make it pretty clear that I needed to know that the climber understood what their commands meant, even if they weren't our standard, so the dude barking at you for using Spanish may have served to ensure that you weren't expressing "I'm thirsty" and "but I just went". I've climbed next to people who used "OK" for every single one of their commands, and it was a mess.

From my experience, a gym that isn't strict about their rules invites the sorts of accidents that strict rules are meant to prevent. To say nothing about liability and insurance requirements, being present for a bad accident can really mess a person up, doubly so if they are tasked with enforcing the rules.


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 3:03 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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guangzhou wrote:

I think his answer was spot on and on topic. I also think the belay test should be strict.It's easy to claim experience, but the staff doesn't know you from Adam.

You didn't fail this test, you were critic and told what the gym expectations were several times. You went in thinking your knew something, you never asked the gym what their criteria are.

Arrogant, from this post, I believe you are.
Experienced in climbing, why, because you were a 16 year old on climbing staff at a BSA camp, please. Get over yourself.

As a gym owner, I agree, 16 year old who walk in my facilities talking about all their knowledge are a bigger hazard than the 16 year old who have never touched a climbing rope.

You passed the test, you're upset because you didn't 100% based on the staff critic. Guess what, regardless of finishing you associated degree at 16, you're not perfect.

I never offered my experience to any of the staff, simply made polite conversation. I'm not sure how you talk to people, but I don't make conversations about "me, me, me." I enjoy hearing about other people's climbing experiences.

I did in fact email the gym about their criteria before going, however, I never got a response. Sure, I didn't take the initiative to call, but I never said I was perfect.

I don't count my time working for the BSA has a big experience buff. I would draw my conclusion that "I'm not completely clueless" because I have taken classes from REI, EMS, and a rock gym.

It is also extremely easy to claim experience. For example: Some random guy on the internet could claim to be a gym owner whenever he wants.

Yes, I passed the test. However, I never realized I was upset. So thank you for telling me I was upset! Here I thought inquiring into the strictness of one gym verses other gyms was normal. Thanks for explaining that it makes me arrogant and upset!


guangzhou


Jan 3, 2012, 3:23 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
McMonk wrote:
I appreciate your input, however, your response was a little off topic, as the question is do you think the gym rules were strict in comparison to gyms readers have had experiences at.

Sorry, I dropped an important phrase from my qualifier. "My experience from climbing gyms I've worked at:..."

I am the sort of safety nazi who would tell you that you didn't dress your knot perfectly (which you didn't if the gym guy had to correct it, and if you don't know why knot dressing can be important, then you really aren't in a position to criticize the rules that require it), although I make a point of explaining, when I teach these things, that it doesn't matter half as much as other parts of the knot. All of that said, if I signed off on a person who could not do things according to what our insurance policies demand of us, I would've made the gym, and by extension ME, liable for injuries incurred. You should check out BSA's old climbing policy (provided they've changed it since I cycled through that crap) and compare it to accepted practices today. The Boy Scouts were pretty bad about pulling "safety" rules more or less out of thin air, and I'm pretty glad that I never climbed with the Scouts outside of climbing gyms because of that.

May have a job managing a gym this time next year. Just in case you want to send your resume.

In reply to:
I used to make it pretty clear that I needed to know that the climber understood what their commands meant, even if they weren't our standard, so the dude barking at you for using Spanish may have served to ensure that you weren't expressing "I'm thirsty" and "but I just went". I've climbed next to people who used "OK" for every single one of their commands, and it was a mess.

Very true. I was just having a conversation about this with a German Climber I climb with. His first day here, I introduced him to a Indonesian climber, I jokingly told the Indonesian the German doesn't speak English or Indonesian. The Indonesia's reply was textbook perfect, no language needed, just "on Belay" "Belay On" "Climbing" "Climb On" "Tension" is a bonus, but not so important today.

In the case of a safety or belay test, go with the basics. Keep Things Simple, show that you know what you're doing and can be trusted.

In my gym, we don't allow bowlines of any kind for tying in. Not because they are unsafe, but because I or my staff can't check them from across the room as easy as a Figure eight.

When I go climbing outside with my fiends and some partners, I use a Bowline. When I climb in the gym, I use and 8 with back-up.

In reply to:
From my experience, a gym that isn't strict about their rules invites the sorts of accidents that strict rules are meant to prevent. To say nothing about liability and insurance requirements, being present for a bad accident can really mess a person up, doubly so if they are tasked with enforcing the rules.

Safety, safety, safety. In some cases, a gym teaching or expects things a certain way so new climbers who only climb in that facility can climb safely with others.

While you and I don't agree on politics and the economy, we seem to have very similar view on climbing. Guess we have the important stuff right.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Jan 3, 2012, 3:25 AM)


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 3:30 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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I agree with you as far as BSA rules go. They are slowly becoming better, but there are still plenty of things that could do with some changing.

And I am not 100% sure what he changed in the knot. What I'm pretty sure happened is the knot was a symmetrical variant that didn't look right in his mind. However, I can't be entirely sure, and could be in the wrong. I do realize that the amount of asymmetry present in the knot has effects on the breaking strength.

EDIT: If anyone was looking for a numerical way to evaluate that: http://www.lmm.jussieu.fr/~audoly/publi/ACNKnots-07.pdf

Unfortunately, the qualifier doesn't change your ability to make judgments on 16 year old climbers. However, the final 3 paragraphs of your second post were what I was looking for, mind the part about BSA rules (Still was off topic?).


(This post was edited by McMonk on Jan 3, 2012, 3:35 AM)


petsfed


Jan 3, 2012, 4:34 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
Unfortunately, the qualifier doesn't change your ability to make judgments on 16 year old climbers.

Because personally interacting with dozens of them in the commercial gym environment, specifically in the role of a gym employee, is still not sufficient experience to say that IN MY EXPERIENCE, 16 year olds are almost uniformly (I throw in almost, as I recognize that 100% of the ones I've met doesn't necessarily imply 100% of all 16 year olds) arrogant pricks. Got it. Next you'll be telling me how my experience teaching climbing (and later physics) to college students has not provided me with any meaningful experience regarding how college students act.

I brought up the BSA because you brought up the BSA. I brought it up specifically to underscore that using the BSA as your principle climbing teaching experience is actually worse for your credibility than simply keeping your mouth shut, but also to emphasize that, provided you are as experienced as you claim, you're also well used to enforcing rules that seem needlessly strict, if not outright contrary to accepted practice elsewhere.


McMonk


Jan 3, 2012, 5:18 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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I don't recall bringing the BSA up as my principal climbing experience. If I made it sound that way I apologize, I figured I would throw that on there cause it was climbing related.

However, I agree with you about the quality of the BSA rules. In fact, I have written a couple of emails to BSA HQ about their rules. Most of the time they thank me for my concern and then that's the end of it. I went with my friend's troop on a climbing trip, which followed BSA rules, and I was mortified. The rules essentially allow people, with very little anchor knowledge to act as a guide for the troop. His Scout Master was in charge of setting anchors and what not. In the end I stuck to bouldering the whole day....


guangzhou


Jan 3, 2012, 7:17 AM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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McMonk wrote:
I don't recall bringing the BSA up as my principal climbing experience. If I made it sound that way I apologize, I figured I would throw that on there cause it was climbing related.

In case you forgot what you wrote.

McMonk wrote:
It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM

To me, the whole original post seems a bit arrogant.

You post a rant about how strict the gym you visited is, you list you climbing "history." Wonder if all gyms are so strict.

On your climbing resume, you bring up boy scout camp climbing staff to let us know how safe you are as a 16 year old, now you claim the safety standards of BSA are to relaxed and you bouldered all day when you troop was on a climbing trip.

As for me being who I claim to be, feel free to Google my name.

The stricter the gym makes the belay test, the better I feel climbing there. At my gym, when you take the test, the person giving you the test even holds a clip board with check list, reminds you you're taking a test and can't retake for 48 hours if you fail.

Anyone who has passed the belay test in my gym, regardless of how long they have been climbing, I am willing to let belay me without hesitation.

Emmanuel "Eman" Lacoste


rsmillbern


Jan 3, 2012, 7:57 AM
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Their house, their rules...

I have been annoyed with, what I considered, silly rules at gyms before, but as I have climbed at more gyms I don't mind so much. Living in Germany I have never been to a gym that had any test or check what so ever and I regularly see things that are, in my opinion, dangerous or, at the least bad practice.


shockabuku


Jan 3, 2012, 1:44 PM
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Re: [guangzhou] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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I'm generally more concerned with the employees ability to understand the importance of the different aspects of the test than how strict it is since there are a limitless number of variations in nuance that still allow for safe climbing.

In the day to day enforcement of safety, the employee, not the clipboard, is the one who - hopefully - is watching.

But then I just climb in gyms, I don't run them.


calvo


Jan 3, 2012, 2:12 PM
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Re: [McMonk] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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Dude no one is going to give you any slack. I got the same treatment playing Juniors at your age. The righteous are just jealous your young and full of opportunities they already had. I hope I am not such herp-derp when I am, "wise and experienced", but I probably will do the same :P


Partner camhead


Jan 3, 2012, 2:25 PM
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Re: [calvo] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

My solution is to only boulder when climbing inside.


ChessRonin


Jan 3, 2012, 3:35 PM
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Re: [rsmillbern] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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What concerns/bothers me more than strict rules is when gyms do not enforce their rules beyond the initial belay test, allowing people to engage in dangerous practices without even a comment.

As a new climber who's made mistakes (as most do), I hope for my own safety that people will tell me when what I'm doing is not safe. I try to do the same when I notice someone making critical errors (like belaying with an ATC while holding the brake strand completely vertical), but the gym staff should be the ones doing so, particularly since they certified that person as "safe."


(This post was edited by ChessRonin on Jan 3, 2012, 3:36 PM)


agdavis


Jan 3, 2012, 3:54 PM
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My best guess is that the "odd" rules exist for one of two reasons. One, insurance requires it. I've heard this reason from gyms whose insurance mandates the use of grigris. Second, the owners may be wanting to create a higher barrier to entry. They might figure that knowing how to tie a double fishenan's backup is one more step advanced than a figure 8 follow-through in terms of climbing knowledge.

I would just deal with it. And get climbing outdoors safely.


Partner j_ung


Jan 3, 2012, 3:55 PM
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camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

My solution is to only boulder when climbing inside.

Yet another example of arbitrary ridiculous gym rules that may actually make the environment less safe.

Regarding gym rules being dictated by insurance companies... In my gym experience, which is extensive but admittedly potentially out of date, insurance companies that dictate specific gym rules are a myth.

What I have seen are insurance companies that require gyms to have risk-management plans (including rules) and that they follow them. But those plans are typically written by the gym itself, not the insurance company.

Examples of bad rules I've seen include requiring a specific belay device, which forces some customers to use hardware with which they may not be entirely familiar. Another example: it would be awesome if we all used the exact same commands, but the reality is different. Forcing a specific set of them increases the likelihood of miscommunication between partners who might otherwise have been just fine.

I understand the need for certain rules. But, IMO, the need for qualified, well-trained staff is much more urgent. No slate of rules can replace such a staff.


Partner j_ung


Jan 3, 2012, 3:58 PM
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agdavis wrote:
My best guess is that the "odd" rules exist for one of two reasons. One, insurance requires it. I've heard this reason from gyms whose insurance mandates the use of grigris.

See my post above. Smile

In reply to:
Second, the owners may be wanting to create a higher barrier to entry. They might figure that knowing how to tie a double fishenan's backup is one more step advanced than a figure 8 follow-through in terms of climbing knowledge.


Maybe... despite the fact that in this case, the opposite is true.

In reply to:
I would just deal with it. And get climbing outdoors safely.

On that, we most certainly agree.


jt512


Jan 3, 2012, 5:41 PM
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camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay


Partner camhead


Jan 3, 2012, 6:30 PM
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jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay

Pinch and slide was irrelevant here, because it was a toprope belay test.

Here are the details: the official gym method for toprope gri gri belaying was to *lock off* your brake (my right) hand down behind your hip ATC style, then bring your other (left)hand over to grasp the rope, pull in the slack, lock off with your left hand down around your right hip, and then walk the right hand up.


petsfed


Jan 3, 2012, 7:34 PM
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camhead wrote:
Here are the details: the official gym method for toprope gri gri belaying was to *lock off* your brake (my right) hand down behind your hip ATC style, then bring your other (left)hand over to grasp the rope, pull in the slack, lock off with your left hand down around your right hip, and then walk the right hand up.

That's retarded.

If you do the BUS (Brake-Under-Slide) method with an ATC, you have to brake straight down, not to one side. Its a radical departure in terms of posture and body position, which is why I'd teach it in beginner classes, and if I was coaching somebody who had no clue, but wouldn't correct people who (like you) showed competency with the other technique, which most all climbers from the 90s learned.

With a gri-gri though, you have to use gri-gri specific techniques, and apparently the dude at this gym hadn't learned any of those.


(This post was edited by petsfed on Jan 3, 2012, 7:35 PM)


jt512


Jan 3, 2012, 8:42 PM
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camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay

Pinch and slide was irrelevant here, because it was a toprope belay test.

Irrelevant for toprope? When my partner is moving quickly on TR, I just about always use the pinch-and-slide belay method with any belay device.

In reply to:
Here are the details: the official gym method for toprope gri gri belaying was to *lock off* your brake (my right) hand down behind your hip ATC style, then bring your other (left)hand over to grasp the rope, pull in the slack, lock off with your left hand down around your right hip, and then walk the right hand up.

Well, that's a bit much. But the habit that some belayers have of shuffling their brake hand up the rope after pulling up rope is dubious. With an original Grigri, if the rope is thin or slick, if your partner falls while you're shuffling your hand up the rope, the rope can slip, and your partner may fall too far before you can react. With the Grigri 2, it's probably not as much an issue, since the Grigri 2 seems to lock up more reliably than the original.

Jay


dagibbs


Jan 3, 2012, 8:44 PM
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I've climbed at a lot of gyms (42 as of posting), and I've found that lots of gyms have varying sets of arbitrary rules and better and worse ways of verifying that people know how to belay. What you described sounds completely within the range of normal for gyms -- nothing in that sequence would have bothered me.

I have been to gyms where they mandate a lesson, and charge for it.
I have been to gyms where they mandate a lesson, but give it for free. (At least one, where I talked to the manager, this was part of the insurance agreement. Risk management included all people will be instructed, if they instruct for free basic belay technique, then nobody will try to dodge the instruction to save the cost.)
I have been to gyms where they test, and charge for the test. Usually a nominal amount ($5), though occasionally more.
I have been to gyms where they test for free.
I have been to gyms where they didn't bother to test (me). (I have been to gyms where, after observing people belaying at the gym, I decided I would only boulder, and felt they really should have been testing.)
I have seen the testing range from strict to half-assed.

I have been to gyms where they only used floor-attached Gri-gris for belays.
I have been to gyms where they only used rope-attached Gri-gris for belays.
I have been to gyms where you used whatever device you brought, but must use a device.
I have been to gyms where you could belay with method you wished, and saw people belaying with a Munter Hitch.

I have yet to fail a belay test, but I've had occasional comments about style -- dressing the figure 8 for example.


SylviaSmile


Jan 3, 2012, 8:46 PM
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McMonk wrote:
It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM

Sounds pretty much like my gym. I didn't know use the backup double fisherman's knot either in the belay test, but still passed after the girl showed me what they wanted.


Partner camhead


Jan 3, 2012, 9:00 PM
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jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay

Pinch and slide was irrelevant here, because it was a toprope belay test.

Irrelevant for toprope? When my partner is moving quickly on TR, I just about always use the pinch-and-slide belay method with any belay device.

When you say "pinch" you mean "pinch the brake," no? Why on earth would you ever have to do that while TR belaying?


iknowfear


Jan 3, 2012, 9:05 PM
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McMonk wrote:
It's a long post, and I understand if you guys don't want to read the whole thing. For those who do, thank you for the time.

Most of my climbing career has been spent at one gym, and one crag. So I figured that I would broaden my horizons and check out another gym by me. Now before I go into this story let me just state:
- I have been *seriously* climbing for 2 years.
- I have experience setting up outdoor TR anchors
- I have lead climbing experience of a solid 5.7 and decent 5.8/9
- I have worked at a Boy Scout camp as climbing staff
- I'm young, only 16 years old. :: Edit: Included to account for possible "This kid isn't capable of tying his own shoes" attitude. As noticed below from marc.

SO I'm not completely clueless.

I went to the gym and everything started out fine and dandy, then they asked that we (my partner and I) meet with a staff member for a belay test. I suspect it should be a snap. They don't allow you to use your own hardware here, as they have a ground anchor (daisy chain), screw gate carabiner, and BD ATC at each TR station. Okay I tell myself, no big deal. I begin my test, and pass with flying colors. As I'm doing what the staff member asks, I talk with him about his climbing experience (just to make small talk). He is new climber, with no outdoor, or lead experience. The final task was to tie in as a climber. Easy peasy right? I tie in, and I have the "fist" of tail after my figure eight, but not quite enough to tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He says "We require the backup knot here." I quickly correct it and tie a fisherman's knot as a back up.

He then said "We require that you use a double fisherman's knot here." I sigh, and re-tie it with a double fisherman's. Then he says "Well that's correct, but I could critique the figure of eight if I wanted to." I look back at my knot, did I really mess it up? No. It was correct. I asked him what was wrong with it and he grabs the knot, flips a section over another, making a cosmetic change. Then he asked me "What are THE commands?" I say:
Pre-Climb:
On belay? :: Belay is on
Permission to climb :: Climb away
Climbing ::
For Decent:
"I use:"
Aqui (Here) - To belayer, stating climber is ready to come down
Listo (Ready)- To climber, stating belayer is ready for the climber to come down

I use Spanish for lowering because it helps avoid confusion with other climbers. He said no. That I need to use "Take" and "I got you."

So those were the rules at the gym. What do you guys think? Strict? Average?

-MM

over here, lots of gyms have NO rules or checks.
just groundfalls.

seriously, if I had a dollar for every time a see a potential injury* due to a stupid mistake by climber or belayer, I would not have to pay much for entry. So far people react cool and thankful for a heads-up.

To sum up, the rules sound a bit over the top to me, but are far better than no rules.

*A short list includes: both hands on the non-braking part of the rope to give slack, shitloads of shakey high clipping with belayer standing far (3m+) from the wall with lots of slack, paralell rope handling on an ATC, ATC threaded like this: -(-)(-)- on a twisted harness, Toproping on a single quickdraw, etc. etc. etc.


redlude97


Jan 3, 2012, 9:19 PM
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camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay

Pinch and slide was irrelevant here, because it was a toprope belay test.

Irrelevant for toprope? When my partner is moving quickly on TR, I just about always use the pinch-and-slide belay method with any belay device.

When you say "pinch" you mean "pinch the brake," no? Why on earth would you ever have to do that while TR belaying?
If you use pinch and slide, how else would you move your brake hand down the rope while maintaining some form of grip on the brake strand?


lithiummetalman


Jan 4, 2012, 1:15 AM
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Suck it up, you got to go climbing in the end.

And that's what counts!

End of story.


(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Jan 4, 2012, 1:15 AM)


jt512


Jan 4, 2012, 1:24 AM
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camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
jt512 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I almost failed the belay test on a grigri at the Ohio State University climbing wall, because I did not put both hands on the brake side of the rope when I was moving them up. Gyms can have a lot of various, contrived, stupid rules.

That's not contrived. With the original grigri you should always be holding the brake side of the rope firmly. That means to slide your brake hand up the rope you need to grasp the brake side of the rope with your other hand or use pinch-and-slide method. With the Grigri 2 there is probably less need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay

Pinch and slide was irrelevant here, because it was a toprope belay test.

Irrelevant for toprope? When my partner is moving quickly on TR, I just about always use the pinch-and-slide belay method with any belay device.

When you say "pinch" you mean "pinch the brake," no? Why on earth would you ever have to do that while TR belaying?

I'm talking about the venerable "pinch-and-slide" belay technique, where, after taking in an armful of rope you do the following: slide your guide hand back up the climber's side of the rope, position the strands of the rope parallel in front of you, pinch the brake strand lightly between the thumb and index finger of the guide hand above the brake hand, slide your brake hand down the brake side of the rope, release the pinch, and then bring the brake side of the rope back down to whatever position you keep it in (locked off for most n00bs).

Whether you're TR belaying or lead belaying, the only time you have to do the pinch maneuver using the pinch-and-slide method is when you want to take in rope. Since, when you're TR belaying, you're mostly taking in rope, you do a lot more pinching when TR belaying than when lead belaying.

I'm not sure what you're confused about. If your question is why would you have to do the pinch maneuver while TR belaying with a Grigri, it is because, after you've taken in some slack, it is potentially dangerous to shuffle your brake hand back up the brake side of the rope. You can't maintain a constantly firm grip on the brake side of the rope while shuffling your brake hand up the rope. If the climber falls at an inopportune moment, and the grigri doesn't lock up, then the climber may fall too far before you have a chance to tighten your grip on the rope. The Grigri is more likely not to lock up in response to a TR fall than a lead fall, which is more likely to produce the shock force needed to lock up the Grigri, even with a skinny or slick rope.

As I mentioned before, I think this is more an issue with the original Grigri than the Grigri 2, which seems to lock up more reliably, obviating the need to constantly maintain such a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Jay


Toast_in_the_Machine


Jan 4, 2012, 1:40 AM
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j_ung wrote:
Regarding gym rules being dictated by insurance companies... In my gym experience, which is extensive but admittedly potentially out of date, insurance companies that dictate specific gym rules are a myth.

What I have seen are insurance companies that require gyms to have risk-management plans (including rules) and that they follow them. But those plans are typically written by the gym itself, not the insurance company.

Wait, what, you mean that people make up rules and justify them with an invisible, unaccountable authority figure? Just wait until my friends over in the soap box hear of this. They will be outraged!

To the OP. Relax, you should always be more respectful and questioning then you need. It is OK to be mildly funny (Last belay test, I asked if I use the pirate version of the comands - he laughed and said no.) I asked the person giving the tests more questions than he asked me and I passed with flying colors.

When I return to that place, I will again begin my habit of bribing the gym workers - the real secret to getting what you want.


lena_chita
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Jan 4, 2012, 5:09 PM
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Sounds like you got your answer, already, but I'll add my own 'gyms can require things to be done THEIR way' stories.

1. A guy comes to visit from out of town. He says hello to the employee at the counter. It so happens that the two guys know each other, have run into each other while climbing outside many times, and the employee happens to know that the visitor has 10+ years of climbing experience.

Nevertheless, the employee proceeds to belay test the visitor, requires him to use an ATC, and insists on the visitor tying in with a figure 8+double fisherman, even though the visitor always uses double bowline with a re-thread, and the employee knows how to tie double-fisherman and never objects to anyone tying in that way when climbing outside.

Sounds silly-- but this is a case of employee going by the book. And you can't really fault him for it, even though it is silly.


2. I am setting a TR route at the gym, using a gri-gri for self-belay (which is the standard gym-approved method). When I am done, a friend comes along, and I ask him to quickly run up the new route and give me feedback. He agrees, and I put him on belay with the gri-gri, because, well, I have it handy, while the ATC is in my bag. I get reprimanded for using a gri-gri to TR belay, because the gym requires everyone to belay with an ATC. The justification is that, while they know I can use a gri-gri, someone else might see me belaying with a gri-gri, and that would create a precedent and then maybe someone else would want to do the same, and gym rules say ATC only.

Silly, for sure. But... gym has rules. Got to stick with them if you want to climb there.


notapplicable


Jan 4, 2012, 5:36 PM
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B.S. method Fo Lyfe!





guangzhou


Jan 5, 2012, 3:03 AM
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lena_chita wrote:
Sounds like you got your answer, already, but I'll add my own 'gyms can require things to be done THEIR way' stories.

1. A guy comes to visit from out of town. He says hello to the employee at the counter. It so happens that the two guys know each other, have run into each other while climbing outside many times, and the employee happens to know that the visitor has 10+ years of climbing experience.

Nevertheless, the employee proceeds to belay test the visitor, requires him to use an ATC, and insists on the visitor tying in with a figure 8+double fisherman, even though the visitor always uses double bowline with a re-thread, and the employee knows how to tie double-fisherman and never objects to anyone tying in that way when climbing outside.

Sounds silly-- but this is a case of employee going by the book. And you can't really fault him for it, even though it is silly.

Most likely to cover him and the gym's @#$%^ if anything does happen. I was once given a belay test by a climbing gym staff when I was there to teach a self rescue clinic. The clinic was half day to staff and two half days to their members. Before I could teach, I had to pass the top-rope test and the lead test too.


In reply to:
2. I am setting a TR route at the gym, using a gri-gri for self-belay (which is the standard gym-approved method). When I am done, a friend comes along, and I ask him to quickly run up the new route and give me feedback. He agrees, and I put him on belay with the gri-gri, because, well, I have it handy, while the ATC is in my bag. I get reprimanded for using a gri-gri to TR belay, because the gym requires everyone to belay with an ATC. The justification is that, while they know I can use a gri-gri, someone else might see me belaying with a gri-gri, and that would create a precedent and then maybe someone else would want to do the same, and gym rules say ATC only.

Silly, for sure. But... gym has rules. Got to stick with them if you want to climb there.

I have to agree on setting precedence to be honest.


Partner j_ung


Jan 5, 2012, 3:09 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
I have to agree on setting precedence to be honest.

Sure, if it's for something that makes sense.


guangzhou


Jan 5, 2012, 4:06 AM
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j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
I have to agree on setting precedence to be honest.

Sure, if it's for something that makes sense.

Setting precedence makes sense to me. I can only guess, but the gym most likely wants to avoid the gri gri as much as possible because it flattens their ropes.

As someone who owns a gym, I can honestly say, "why can he do it and not me" is a very common phrase. It's easier to enforce the rules with everyone versus selectively.


SylviaSmile


Jan 5, 2012, 8:46 PM
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lithiummetalman wrote:
Suck it up, you got to go climbing in the end.

And that's what counts!

End of story.

No, he got to go to the gym. Someone had to say it . . . Tongue


Partner j_ung


Jan 5, 2012, 8:51 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
I have to agree on setting precedence to be honest.

Sure, if it's for something that makes sense.

Setting precedence makes sense to me. I can only guess, but the gym most likely wants to avoid the gri gri as much as possible because it flattens their ropes.

As someone who owns a gym, I can honestly say, "why can he do it and not me" is a very common phrase. It's easier to enforce the rules with everyone versus selectively.

Perhaps the root of the problem is the rule structure itself. I have 10 years of experience managing gyms in which customers could use whatever device they like, as long as they did so correctly. No offense, but apparently our approach was more effective at reducing such questions than yours. I rarely had to field them. And when I did, since our rules were well thought out, they were easy to justify.

As for flat ropes from Gri-gri usage, I found that the natural variety of belay devices people employed solved the problem for us. Now requiring only Gri-gris... I could see flat ropes becoming an issue. But that's an example of another rule with which I disagree.


guangzhou


Jan 6, 2012, 2:15 AM
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j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
I have to agree on setting precedence to be honest.

Sure, if it's for something that makes sense.

Setting precedence makes sense to me. I can only guess, but the gym most likely wants to avoid the gri gri as much as possible because it flattens their ropes.

As someone who owns a gym, I can honestly say, "why can he do it and not me" is a very common phrase. It's easier to enforce the rules with everyone versus selectively.

Perhaps the root of the problem is the rule structure itself. I have 10 years of experience managing gyms in which customers could use whatever device they like, as long as they did so correctly. No offense, but apparently our approach was more effective at reducing such questions than yours. I rarely had to field them. And when I did, since our rules were well thought out, they were easy to justify.

We have no one belay device or other rule in the gyms I own. Gri-Gri or ATC type doesn't matter to me.

What I was commenting on was setting precedence. We enforce the rules equally with everyone so no-one can complain. If we had ano gri-gri rule, we would enforce that too.

We don't allow belaying on mutter hitch or figure eights, beyond that we're pretty open if you can demonstrate you know how to use the device in question.

In reply to:
As for flat ropes from Gri-gri usage, I found that the natural variety of belay devices people employed solved the problem for us. Now requiring only Gri-gris... I could see flat ropes becoming an issue. But that's an example of another rule with which I disagree.

Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.


Partner j_ung


Jan 6, 2012, 3:14 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

Now that I agree with.


guangzhou


Jan 7, 2012, 10:48 AM
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j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

Now that I agree with.

hard not to agree with it. Tongue


Toast_in_the_Machine


Jan 8, 2012, 6:18 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
j_ung wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

Now that I agree with.

hard not to agree with it. Tongue

This is the interwebs, somewhere there is someone who disagrees.


calvo


Jan 15, 2012, 7:47 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

I disagree


Partner j_ung


Jan 16, 2012, 6:07 PM
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calvo wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

I disagree

With which part?


calvo


Jan 16, 2012, 6:22 PM
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j_ung wrote:
calvo wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Flat ropes are part of life in gyms. We d what we can, but any gym in business should know that ropes don't last for ever and budget accordingly.

I disagree

With which part?

Just kidding Smile


guangzhou


Jan 17, 2012, 1:59 AM
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The real question for gyms is when to retire a flat rope isn't it.


calvo


Jan 17, 2012, 3:59 AM
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I read somewhere on here about ropes and like the maximum number of falls they can take. And someone mentioned that like if you like rest a rope after a fall for a while it will stay stronger in the long run. If this indeed works I fail to see how it would happen. Because the stressed fibers wouldn't bend themselves? I'd its a bit late, not sure if that question made sense..


acorneau


Jan 17, 2012, 5:35 AM
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Re: [calvo] Strict Gym Rules? [In reply to]
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calvo wrote:
I read somewhere on here about ropes and like the maximum number of falls they can take. And someone mentioned that like if you like rest a rope after a fall for a while it will stay stronger in the long run. If this indeed works I fail to see how it would happen. Because the stressed fibers wouldn't bend themselves? I'd its a bit late, not sure if that question made sense..

No, not much sense, but I'm pretty sure you're referring to this article from the QC lab guys at BD...

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...o-rest-between-falls

Also, I think you're confusing the UIAA rating for "number of falls held" with standard falls in real-world climbing situations.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jan 17, 2012, 5:36 AM)


calvo


Jan 17, 2012, 5:55 AM
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Yea that one. What I meant was like, in relation to the rope flattening .. would resting it periodically .. or like switching out the ropes to allow then to rest result in longer lifespan for your ropes? Like would they regain strength after a period of non-usage?

BTW I am in no hurry to start my own gym, I'm a curious noob


guangzhou


Jan 17, 2012, 6:27 AM
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Just because a rope is flat doesn't mean it's weak.

As the owner of a gym, I plan to err on the side of caution. I prefer to change the ropes out earlier than necessary rather than later.


theextremist04


Jan 17, 2012, 6:33 AM
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Ropes going flat is usually more of a handling problem than a safety issue. The gym I work at (at my college) doesn't ever feel like budgeting for new ropes, so a lot of ours are flat. I still take falls on them, but they suck to run through belay devices.


calvo


Jan 17, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Ohh, yea I just assumed flattening weakened the ropes. I can see how that could be a problem especially when you have guys like me who are unfamiliar with the quirks of working with flattened ropes no?


theextremist04


Jan 17, 2012, 2:41 PM
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The ropes do end up weaker for sure, but not to the point where top roping is dangerous on them.


HowardJ


Feb 21, 2012, 1:15 PM
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I'min the UK, but I was prompted to look on here following a discussion on UK Climbing. In the UK most indoor walls (we don't call them gyms) allow climbers to self-certify - you just sign a form to say you can put on a harness and can belay. Some only allow you tie in with a fig-8, but I've never heard of one restricting which belay device you use (although Munter hitches and body belays aren't permitted).

What surprised me was that some US gyms seem to set a fairly high entry standard for learning to lead. I found one website which demanded that in order to take their leading course you should be able to climb 5.9. Now I've been climbing for 40 years and I've safely led hundreds of climbs, but my best grade is equivalent to about 5.7. I might just manage 5.9 on a tight rope but its not pretty. According to this gym I wouldn't be competent even to take their course, let alone lead.

Is this common in US gyms? Just curious. It seems to run contrary to the idea of a gym as a training and learning facility.


USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 1:32 PM
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HowardJ wrote:
I'min the UK, but I was prompted to look on here following a discussion on UK Climbing. In the UK most indoor walls (we don't call them gyms) allow climbers to self-certify - you just sign a form to say you can put on a harness and can belay. Some only allow you tie in with a fig-8, but I've never heard of one restricting which belay device you use (although Munter hitches and body belays aren't permitted).

What surprised me was that some US gyms seem to set a fairly high entry standard for learning to lead. I found one website which demanded that in order to take their leading course you should be able to climb 5.9. Now I've been climbing for 40 years and I've safely led hundreds of climbs, but my best grade is equivalent to about 5.7. I might just manage 5.9 on a tight rope but its not pretty. According to this gym I wouldn't be competent even to take their course, let alone lead.

Is this common in US gyms? Just curious. It seems to run contrary to the idea of a gym as a training and learning facility.
Yes, its extremely common. I have never been to a gym that does not require you to onsight at least 5.8 to lead there. Most of the routes on a lead wall are generally 5.8 or harder, with the majority being 5.10 or above in most gyms. The idea behind the rule is that if you are a 5.7 climber that just learned how to lead, and all the routes on the lead wall are above your limit, you are liable to fall while clipping or something similar and get hurt.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 21, 2012, 1:35 PM)


sbaclimber


Feb 21, 2012, 2:06 PM
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USnavy wrote:
HowardJ wrote:
I'min the UK, but I was prompted to look on here following a discussion on UK Climbing. In the UK most indoor walls (we don't call them gyms) allow climbers to self-certify - you just sign a form to say you can put on a harness and can belay. Some only allow you tie in with a fig-8, but I've never heard of one restricting which belay device you use (although Munter hitches and body belays aren't permitted).

What surprised me was that some US gyms seem to set a fairly high entry standard for learning to lead. I found one website which demanded that in order to take their leading course you should be able to climb 5.9. Now I've been climbing for 40 years and I've safely led hundreds of climbs, but my best grade is equivalent to about 5.7. I might just manage 5.9 on a tight rope but its not pretty. According to this gym I wouldn't be competent even to take their course, let alone lead.

Is this common in US gyms? Just curious. It seems to run contrary to the idea of a gym as a training and learning facility.
Yes, its extremely common.
+1, in the States.

I don't think I have ever run into this requirement in NZ or Germany either.


olderic


Feb 21, 2012, 3:15 PM
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yeah common - but take it with a grain of salt. talking about gym grades which equal the epitome of grade inflation where 5.10 = grit VS (5.6/5.7). Also know that "leading" in a US gym is usually a very tightly controlled sanitized experience - bolts closely spaced, perms-draws and over-hanging terrain so you won't hit anything.

what leading in a gym will let you do is get on some wildly over hanging routes that would not be feasible to TR. the easier ones ( <5,11) will not be technically difficult at all but ladder like jug hauls - like an amusement park ride.

so - i wouldn't worry about some arbitrary minimum grade standard too much.


petsfed


Feb 21, 2012, 3:32 PM
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olderic wrote:
yeah common - but take it with a grain of salt. talking about gym grades which equal the epitome of grade inflation where 5.10 = grit VS (5.6/5.7). Also know that "leading" in a US gym is usually a very tightly controlled sanitized experience - bolts closely spaced, perms-draws and over-hanging terrain so you won't hit anything.

I think if you could eliminate the big things that make gym climbing easier (day glow plastic holds that you can learn over time), a lot of gym routes would turn out to be a lot harder than equivalently grades routes at various crags around the world.

That said, a gym that sets a lot of slabby lead terrain is begging for a lot of injured customers. Its just very hard to set a 5.7 on a continuously overhanging wall.


Partner j_ung


Feb 21, 2012, 6:24 PM
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petsfed wrote:
olderic wrote:
yeah common - but take it with a grain of salt. talking about gym grades which equal the epitome of grade inflation where 5.10 = grit VS (5.6/5.7). Also know that "leading" in a US gym is usually a very tightly controlled sanitized experience - bolts closely spaced, perms-draws and over-hanging terrain so you won't hit anything.

I think if you could eliminate the big things that make gym climbing easier (day glow plastic holds that you can learn over time), a lot of gym routes would turn out to be a lot harder than equivalently grades routes at various crags around the world.

That said, a gym that sets a lot of slabby lead terrain is begging for a lot of injured customers. Its just very hard to set a 5.7 on a continuously overhanging wall.

That depends entirely on the continuous angle and the height of the gym.

I'll stop shy of saying that this is one of those arbitrary rules that I hate. Individual gyms should make the call based on the terrain they have available. At Inner Peaks in Charlotte, NC, we had leadable terrain on which it was entirely possible to set lead routes down to around 5.5. They were 25 feet tall and just past vertical the whole way. In the 7 years I worked there, I can't think of a single injury that I could attribute solely to the angle of the wall.

(Oddly enough, our single biggest cause of injuries was crash pads.)


(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 21, 2012, 6:27 PM)


Partner cracklover


Feb 21, 2012, 7:51 PM
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j_ung wrote:
They were 25 feet tall and just past vertical the whole way. In the 7 years I worked there, I can't think of a single injury that I could attribute solely to the angle of the wall.

(Oddly enough, our single biggest cause of injuries was crash pads.)

That's because 25 feet is a glorified boulder problem, lol. Hitting the pads wrong is the only major danger (joking, sort of).

Just yesterday (I had the day off) I went to scope out a little face I'd been thinking about developing for a while. Got up to it and it was as good or better than it had looked from afar, aside from one thing... it was only around 25 feet tall. Totally not worth the effort for a few three-bolt routes.

GO


HowardJ


Feb 21, 2012, 10:47 PM
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"USnavy wrote:
I have never been to a gym that does not require you to onsight at least 5.8 to lead there. Most of the routes on a lead wall are generally 5.8 or harder, with the majority being 5.10 or above in most gyms. The idea behind the rule is that if you are a 5.7 climber that just learned how to lead, and all the routes on the lead wall are above your limit, you are liable to fall while clipping or something similar and get hurt.

The walls I go to in the UK all have some lead routes of F4 or even easier, equivalent to around 5.6-5.7. These are usually not wildly overhanging, most are vertical, and I know of a wall with at least one lead route on a slab.

People who climb at this grade are not necessarily beginners. In the UK, there seems to be a peak at around the equivalent of 5.7, made up of people who just want to go and enjoy themselves without pushing too hard or training seriously. There's another peak at around 5.10, which seems to be those who want to train and push their limits. The trad climbing culture is also very strong here, which seems to make quite a few climbers reluctant to push their grades to the point where they fall, even indoors.

If US gyms are only going to set hard lead routes then I can see it makes sense to restrict leading to those who can show that they're within reach of those grades. It does seem to exclude a lot of potential customers who want something different from their climbing. However if the stories are to be believed the US is a much more litigious culture with much greater liability placed on the gym owner so I suppose they have to be cautious.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2012, 1:03 AM
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HowardJ wrote:
However if the stories are to be believed the US is a much more litigious culture with much greater liability placed on the gym owner so I suppose they have to be cautious.

Ain't that the truth. I still maintain, however, that the best way to keep from being sued is a multi-pronged approach that includes a sensible rule set and aggressive staff training.


guangzhou


Feb 22, 2012, 2:59 AM
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I managed a gym back in the 1990s in the U.S. and we didn't have a minimum grade for learning to lead. That gym had no slabs, but they were always routes that were below 5.9, especially if you consider the party wall (using all holds).

The gyms I run here in Indonesia are 15 meters high on average with 30% of the walls dedicated to below vertical. Again, we have no minimum grade to climb in order to lead climb. (Experience climbers prove they can, inexperienced take our class)

Our overhanging terrain, definitely the safest place to fall, doesn't have much below 5.10. The occasional 5.9. Even jug hauls for 15 meters require something.

On grades, the UK isn't much unlike the U.S. When I climb outdoors, especially at trad areas, the first plateau seems to be 5.7/5.8 the next is 5.10, but even those doing the occasional 5.10 trad line are barely 5.9 climbers. They just have some selected 5.10 they can do, and a bunch of 5.9 too, but plenty plenty more of both they can get on.

When I trained my staff here, we considered a minimum grade for lead climbers. I had them explain why, then I explain why I didn't think it was necessary. Leading isn't about how hard you climb, but how safe you are with ropes and system.

We do have a prerequisite, you must be top-rope qualified before you consider leading. Beyond that, people sign up for the class when they think they are ready. Before the end of the class, they know whether they are ready or not.

After the class, they have to lead at least 25 routes supervised, belay the same before they get their lead card.
.


shockabuku


Feb 22, 2012, 3:11 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
After the class, they have to lead at least 25 routes supervised, belay the same before they get their lead card.
.

That's a nice idea but I imagine fairly expensive staff wise.

.


guangzhou


Feb 22, 2012, 3:41 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
After the class, they have to lead at least 25 routes supervised, belay the same before they get their lead card.
.

That's a nice idea but I imagine fairly expensive staff wise.

.

Our gym has a minimum of three staff members working at all times. Because of that, we can offer basic safety classes to first time climbers with no appointment or reservations.

Our members have various schedules, so we have morning set of regulars, afternoon regular (usually kids/teen) and evening regulars. We do have slow time, but a climber who shows up can is guaranteed to get a belay even if no other members are around.

Staff belays free when no other qualified belayers are around. I always hated gyms that had staff working and wouldn't belay because they were to busy cruising the net, updating facebook, or reading instead of working.

Cheers
Eman
We'll be looking for a couple of foreign hire location managers soon.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2012, 1:07 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
After the class, they have to lead at least 25 routes supervised, belay the same before they get their lead card.
.

That's a nice idea but I imagine fairly expensive staff wise.

.

Our gym has a minimum of three staff members working at all times. Because of that, we can offer basic safety classes to first time climbers with no appointment or reservations.

Our members have various schedules, so we have morning set of regulars, afternoon regular (usually kids/teen) and evening regulars. We do have slow time, but a climber who shows up can is guaranteed to get a belay even if no other members are around.

Staff belays free when no other qualified belayers are around. I always hated gyms that had staff working and wouldn't belay because they were to busy cruising the net, updating facebook, or reading instead of working.

Cheers
Eman
We'll be looking for a couple of foreign hire location managers soon.

That may be pricey, but I think it's a good model. I enjoyed working in a gym most when we had at least three staff on. It meant we could spare somebody to do nothing but safety and customer service.


guangzhou


Feb 23, 2012, 2:47 AM
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Actually, when we have guest climbing, one staff member is required to be a safety. All staff member are require to wear harness. (We have a large numberof inexperienced climbers). Our safety actually wear an arm strap with the word safety on it. I wasn't sure how I felt about this initially, my idea, but once we introduced the concept, our members bought into it completely. Parent are especially happy to know we take safety seriously enough to advertise the person responsible on the floor.

Pricey. Perceptions go a long way. Sometimes, looking pricey convinces people to join, after all, if the gym can afford all this, people must think it's fun enough to join.

Building an open and accepting community is key. Especially when you have strong climbers climbing side by side. Our experienced climbers help with mentoring versus having a they are a NOOB attitude. Even our teenager are quick to help new climbers. All starts with a staff that is helpful and shares info versus avoiding members.


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