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fsacb3


Mar 22, 2012, 1:35 PM
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Sick of kids
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I suppose climbing will one day be like gymnastics and the best climbers will be pre-pubescent girls. But I'm kind of sick of the obsession with how good children are. Yeah sure, I'm old have some jealousy issues, but I also have a point I think. I don't find children climbers interesting to watch. It's boring. It's impressive but not beautiful. They don't weigh anything, they seem to exert no effort, they don't struggle, and they have not yet developed personality or style. I am much more impressed when I see a 40-year-old dude who's been working for a week on a V5 and finally sends it. He's sweating, he's screaming, he's got a job and kids and can only climb once a week. He's got some extra pounds so he's got to figure out how to haul that big body up the wall. Am I the only one that finds that guy more deserving of praise? Or on a higher level, I'd much rather watch Fred Nicole than the latest wunderkid. The kid floats up the wall, but it's boring. I find the same thing is true with musicians, dancers, tennis players, whatever. I don't want to watch a 12-year-old piano prodigy play all the notes perfectly. I want to watch the guy who's lived and brings his life experience and might not hit all the notes but the result is more moving. I guess I'm just not into the prodigy thing. Don't get me wrong, it's very impressive, but I don't find it as interesting. Maybe I'm thinking of climbing as an art instead of a sport. And I'm an old fuddy duddy who doesn't want to see climbing turn into such a competitive, number-chasing sport and lose its rebellious origins. The obsession with youth is a symptom of which way the sport is heading I guess. We're obsessed with numbers, both age and grade. Next time I'm at the crag I want to talk about how my buddy conquered that rock over there rather than how a 13-year-old climbed a V13.


sknowlton


Mar 22, 2012, 1:52 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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Climbing is what YOU choose to make it.


shockabuku


Mar 22, 2012, 2:11 PM
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fsacb3 wrote:
I suppose climbing will one day be like gymnastics and the best climbers will be pre-pubescent girls. But I'm kind of sick of the obsession with how good children are. Yeah sure, I'm old have some jealousy issues, but I also have a point I think. I don't find children climbers interesting to watch. It's boring. It's impressive but not beautiful. They don't weigh anything, they seem to exert no effort, they don't struggle, and they have not yet developed personality or style. I am much more impressed when I see a 40-year-old dude who's been working for a week on a V5 and finally sends it. He's sweating, he's screaming, he's got a job and kids and can only climb once a week. He's got some extra pounds so he's got to figure out how to haul that big body up the wall. Am I the only one that finds that guy more deserving of praise? Or on a higher level, I'd much rather watch Fred Nicole than the latest wunderkid. The kid floats up the wall, but it's boring. I find the same thing is true with musicians, dancers, tennis players, whatever. I don't want to watch a 12-year-old piano prodigy play all the notes perfectly. I want to watch the guy who's lived and brings his life experience and might not hit all the notes but the result is more moving. I guess I'm just not into the prodigy thing. Don't get me wrong, it's very impressive, but I don't find it as interesting. Maybe I'm thinking of climbing as an art instead of a sport. And I'm an old fuddy duddy who doesn't want to see climbing turn into such a competitive, number-chasing sport and lose its rebellious origins. The obsession with youth is a symptom of which way the sport is heading I guess. We're obsessed with numbers, both age and grade. Next time I'm at the crag I want to talk about how my buddy conquered that rock over there rather than how a 13-year-old climbed a V13.

I'm a 45 year old guy with kids and a job. And while I understand your point, I generally don't agree. Kids have plenty of style and they do work hard for their accomplishments. But they're kids, and at least to the really young ones, hard work doesn't present itself the same way it does to us old, jaded, beaten down has beens/never was'. They have different obstacles to overcome and while their bodies, and even brains, do have some significant advantages they still have obstacles to overcome. If you don't like it, ignore it. Personally I like them for their energy, the fact that they're too naive to know that they can't do something (and so they try crazy stuff and often end up doing it), and the fact that most of them are having fun, not working.

Pre-pubescent girls won't (completely) dominate the sport until there's lots of money in it, if then.


kachoong


Mar 22, 2012, 2:58 PM
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fsacb3 wrote:
I suppose climbing will one day be like gymnastics and the best climbers will be pre-pubescent girls. But I'm kind of sick of the obsession with how good children are. Yeah sure, I'm old have some jealousy issues, but I also have a point I think. I don't find children climbers interesting to watch. It's boring. It's impressive but not beautiful. They don't weigh anything, they seem to exert no effort, they don't struggle, and they have not yet developed personality or style. I am much more impressed when I see a 40-year-old dude who's been working for a week on a V5 and finally sends it. He's sweating, he's screaming, he's got a job and kids and can only climb once a week. He's got some extra pounds so he's got to figure out how to haul that big body up the wall. Am I the only one that finds that guy more deserving of praise? Or on a higher level, I'd much rather watch Fred Nicole than the latest wunderkid. The kid floats up the wall, but it's boring. I find the same thing is true with musicians, dancers, tennis players, whatever. I don't want to watch a 12-year-old piano prodigy play all the notes perfectly. I want to watch the guy who's lived and brings his life experience and might not hit all the notes but the result is more moving. I guess I'm just not into the prodigy thing. Don't get me wrong, it's very impressive, but I don't find it as interesting. Maybe I'm thinking of climbing as an art instead of a sport. And I'm an old fuddy duddy who doesn't want to see climbing turn into such a competitive, number-chasing sport and lose its rebellious origins. The obsession with youth is a symptom of which way the sport is heading I guess. We're obsessed with numbers, both age and grade. Next time I'm at the crag I want to talk about how my buddy conquered that rock over there rather than how a 13-year-old climbed a V13.

I suppose writing is like Alzheimer's. There comes a point where you think the communication skills are there but with age all the observer sees is a lack of structure and coherence... and then no-one really cares to follow the rest of what is being said.


dynosore


Mar 22, 2012, 3:11 PM
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Unimpressed

^That's me, not watching or caring what other climbers do. You should try it some time.


lena_chita
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Mar 22, 2012, 3:18 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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Why does one have to negate the other? Why can't you be impressed BOTH with your overweight 40yo friend sending V5 and tiny 10yo sending V13?

Have you been around kids much? Do you know how rare it is for someone really young to have not just talent for something, but also the determination to work on improving?

THIS is what is impressive about the young prodigies, whether we are talking about a violinist virtuoso, a young gymnast, or a pint-sized climber.

Yes, they have talent, and they have certain things going for them, such as their youth, good strength-to-weight ration, resiliency, and the ability to focus on pursuit of some activity unencumbered by worries about family, job, money, etc. etc.

Yes, they are also lucky to come across the activity that they are good at at a young age, and they are extremely lucky to have parents who are able and willing to provide a (significant) financial and moral support.

All of those things they have going for them.

But none of the above will matter if they are not interested, and not willing to push themselves and work hard.


And when they DO work hard and achieve impressive results-- they get disparaging comments like yours. Lame!


petsfed


Mar 22, 2012, 3:41 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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fsacb3 wrote:
And I'm an old fuddy duddy who doesn't want to see climbing turn into such a competitive, number-chasing sport and lose its rebellious origins.

There's your problem. If you stop thinking like its sometime before 1981, you might find the new set of wunderkids less offensive to your concept of how climbing should be.

The only remnant of the climbers-as-rebels phenomenon is jack-asses with trust-funds poaching campsites because they think that somehow makes them akin to Yvon Chouinard and Fred Beckey.


surfstar


Mar 22, 2012, 8:00 PM
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Run-out trad slab leads are far more impressive to me than gym-bouldering v-hard. Although maybe 45lb kids could float slabs too, if they were 'cool'.

akin to surfing and all the recent above-the-lip (airs) fixation. not impressive if they can't lay down a good rail too. tricks are for kids.

oh and how about a 1080 on a snowboard vs a nicely styled straight grab? one is harder, one looks better and more fun to do.

meh. Crazy


dan2see


Mar 22, 2012, 8:46 PM
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But Shocked

But ... Unimpressed

But my climbing partner is a pre-pubescent girl. Blush


wmshub


Mar 22, 2012, 9:29 PM
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Re: [dan2see] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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Before I had kids, I was bored to tears any time that they showed up, in conversation or in real life.

Ever since having my own kids, I find all children, and what they do, incredibly interesting.

So I can empathize with the OP who is sick of seeing videos of kids doing amazing climbs. But I hope the OP can understand that some of us love to see those, and it would be a shame if they went away.


(This post was edited by wmshub on Mar 22, 2012, 9:30 PM)


jorgegonzalez


Mar 22, 2012, 9:48 PM
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Wm,

I wholeheartedly agree.

I love watching kids in the midst of discovery of their natural talents, physically and mentally, whether its sports (climbing, soccer, baseball), or learning to read and understand the text.

To me curiosity is close to the essence of life. Children who push themselves in non-traditional endeavors such as climbing, will benefit greatly from that experience later in life, which can only enure to the benefit of society. As adults, our lot in life is to facilitate, encourage, and guide them in this process.

I once watched two 14 year olds flash a bunch of sport climbs in Red Rocks. My natural instinct to parent them took over when I realized they didn't have parents with them. It turns out they had hitch-hiked alone from Idaho, with the permission of their parents. They interacted well with the adults around them and exuded confidence seldom seen in young folks twice their age.

It was fascinating to be a witness to that. Have told the story many times since.


jakedatc


Mar 22, 2012, 10:03 PM
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wow butthurts is strong with that one.


guess what, those kids are stronger than you, try harder than you, train longer than you, and DON'T GIVE A FUCK what you do.

do you get pissed off at 16yr old Dominican kids that can throw 90?

There are elite athletes in all sports. you are not one of them, get over it.


Durin


Mar 23, 2012, 12:22 AM
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I'll wait to complain until 10 year old girls start dominating Nanga Parbat


potreroed


Mar 23, 2012, 3:08 AM
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I love kids--if they're properly cooked.


Partner camhead


Mar 23, 2012, 3:19 AM
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fsacb3 wrote:
I don't want to watch a 12-year-old piano prodigy play all the notes perfectly. I want to watch the guy who's lived and brings his life experience and might not hit all the notes but the result is more moving. I guess I'm just not into the prodigy thing.

I was originally going to make fun of your complaining post, but I totally agree with the quoted section. Kid climbers and kid music prodigies lack depth. We just need to be comfortable in the fact that they are technically much better than us.


knubs


Mar 23, 2012, 4:47 AM
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personally, as a 19 year old climber, when i am at the crag i dont care about the details of people really. i dont care if they are young or old, tall or short, fat or skinny, local or a tourist, or gay or straight. if they are having fun and are putting all they've got into sending a route and are respectful to others, then they are cool in my book. sure some people are more impressive to watch than others, but oh well. if you dont like watching them then pay attention to your belay and watch your climber lol.

i do have to say though. i am jealous of those awesome 12 year olds. it just makes me wonder why i started so late.


Traches


Mar 23, 2012, 6:46 AM
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potreroed wrote:
I love kids--if they're properly cooked.

I can never finish a whole one by myself.


granite_grrl


Mar 23, 2012, 1:48 PM
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dan2see wrote:
But Shocked

But ... Unimpressed

But my climbing partner is a pre-pubescent girl. Blush

Should I assume she's your ropegun?


chadnsc


Mar 23, 2012, 2:04 PM
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knubs wrote:
personally, as a 19 year old climber, when i am at the crag i dont care about the details of people really. i dont care if they are young or old, tall or short, fat or skinny, local or a tourist, or gay or straight. if they are having fun and are putting all they've got into sending a route and are respectful to others, then they are cool in my book. sure some people are more impressive to watch than others, but oh well. if you dont like watching them then pay attention to your belay and watch your climber lol.

i do have to say though. i am jealous of those awesome 12 year olds. it just makes me wonder why i started so late.


You're 19 years old, no one cares what you think.Tongue


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 2:58 PM
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"I suppose writing is like Alzheimer's. There comes a point where you think the communication skills are there but with age all the observer sees is a lack of structure and coherence... and then no-one really cares to follow the rest of what is being said."

What the hell are you trying to say? You're critiquing my structure and coherence? Not the point I'm making? Good debate skills.


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 3:00 PM
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[^That's me, not watching or caring what other climbers do. You should try it some time. ]

Right, but if every rock is covered with children and their parents trying to get sponsored and go to the olympics, it might negatively affect my enjoyment of climbing


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 3:08 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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"Why does one have to negate the other? Why can't you be impressed BOTH with your overweight 40yo friend sending V5 and tiny 10yo sending V13?"

Why does admiring celebrities who are thin and beautiful negate the overweight ugly ones. We agree to value one and not the other. It doesn't have to happen, but it does.

"Have you been around kids much? Do you know how rare it is for someone really young to have not just talent for something, but also the determination to work on improving?"

I love kids. I'm around them a lot. Like I tried to to say, I'm not taking anything away from their achievements, but I think turning kids into celebrities is not a great thing. We can be proud of them, and encourage them, without hyping them way up and making how good they are as climbers the most important thing about them. What's wrong with letting them climb and then if they're still around in 10 years, then put them on the cover of a magazine?

"And when they DO work hard and achieve impressive results-- they get disparaging comments like yours. Lame!"

Disparaging? Hardly. I climb at the same gym as Ashima. I encourage the hell out of her. I cheer her on and congratulate her amazingness. I just feel conflicted about it. I also feel conflicted that this 65+ year old man who shows up every day doesn't get congratulated for his awesomeness. Do you understand what I'm saying?


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 3:13 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
fsacb3 wrote:
And I'm an old fuddy duddy who doesn't want to see climbing turn into such a competitive, number-chasing sport and lose its rebellious origins.

There's your problem. If you stop thinking like its sometime before 1981, you might find the new set of wunderkids less offensive to your concept of how climbing should be.

The only remnant of the climbers-as-rebels phenomenon is jack-asses with trust-funds poaching campsites because they think that somehow makes them akin to Yvon Chouinard and Fred Beckey.

Sweet. I acknowledge that I'm nostalgic, and you agree with me. I think the "sport" was better before it got popular.

I don't find wunderkids offensive, just annoying.


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 3:15 PM
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Re: [surfstar] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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surfstar wrote:
akin to surfing and all the recent above-the-lip (airs) fixation. not impressive if they can't lay down a good rail too. tricks are for kids.

I agree, I think surfing took the same road to commercialization that climbing could take, for better or worse.


fsacb3


Mar 23, 2012, 3:17 PM
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Re: [wmshub] Sick of kids [In reply to]
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wmshub wrote:
Before I had kids, I was bored to tears any time that they showed up, in conversation or in real life.

Ever since having my own kids, I find all children, and what they do, incredibly interesting.

So I can empathize with the OP who is sick of seeing videos of kids doing amazing climbs. But I hope the OP can understand that some of us love to see those, and it would be a shame if they went away.

I'm sure if I have kids my opinion will change. And don't worry, the kid videos (kideos?) will not go away any time soon

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