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near death fall (45ft)
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curt


Jun 1, 2012, 6:16 PM
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Re: [olderic] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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"Paying attention" is actually the only answer that is universally applicable. Knots have their place--but aren't always a good idea. Relying on a middle mark might be OK, but more than one party has rapped off the end of their rope after thinking that one of the new, idiotic "rope end markings" was actually the center mark of the rope.

Curt


healyje


Jun 1, 2012, 6:25 PM
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Re: [Sumpumpolis] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Socalclimber is absolutely on target with this one - it isn't about knots in the ends or middle markers - it's about paying attention to the business which is literally 'at hand'. And while the OP in't clear whether this was a case of rapping off the end of even or uneven ropes, not paying attention to what is running through your hands in either case is the primary failure involved with these kinds of accidents.

The fact this is becoming the accident de jeur of late is troubling on a number of counts. It used to be a fairly rare occurrence, but now seems to be a monthly event among both new and experienced climbers. It's a bit of a mystery to me as I don't move an inch on a rappel without knowing exactly where I am relative to the end of the rope on a millisecond-by-millisecond basis.


olderic


Jun 1, 2012, 6:29 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Just you using one rope that you have knowledge of is obviously pretty safe. But in reality ends do get cut off (unlike the other silly malicious damage you suggested, more likely with a 70 that you alluded to using) and ropes do get passed around. You sound like you are at the point where you aren't aware of the extent to which these things happen.

I started out suggesting that you use caution on the first rap of the day to make sure that the apparent middle actually is. If you think that is overkill - fine - don't bother. I personally think that knots in the end are overkill 99% of the time and rarely use them - most often with a nervous partner.

Mistaking a middle marker has resulted in the death of one friend and a badly broken leg in another - so I'm somewhat skeptical.


bearbreeder


Jun 1, 2012, 6:45 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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bagging as in saddlebagging or some variation thereoff ...

like i said if the wind is bowing like crazy, i prefer not to be throwing my ropes, knotted or unknotted ... they can get stuck either way ...

as to multi ... i run up a 6+ pitch multi on average 3+ times a week in climbing seasons and a 12+ pitch multi once a week at least ... some have rap offs, others dont

knotting is yr choice ... but like i said i would bet that more people die of rapping off the ends of the rope than getting stuck on rap ... especially when yr cold, tired, and hungry, in the dark ... or when yr in a rush ...

and no you dont trust middle marks or pattern changes unless its yr rope or you know its accurate ...

here my "clients" (im not a guide) on the last pitch of a 14 pitch multi last week ... walked right off Wink




(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jun 1, 2012, 6:50 PM)


Rudmin


Jun 1, 2012, 6:53 PM
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Re: [olderic] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
Just you using one rope that you have knowledge of is obviously pretty safe. But in reality ends do get cut off (unlike the other silly malicious damage you suggested, more likely with a 70 that you alluded to using) and ropes do get passed around. You sound like you are at the point where you aren't aware of the extent to which these things happen.

I started out suggesting that you use caution on the first rap of the day to make sure that the apparent middle actually is. If you think that is overkill - fine - don't bother. I personally think that knots in the end are overkill 99% of the time and rarely use them - most often with a nervous partner.

Mistaking a middle marker has resulted in the death of one friend and a badly broken leg in another - so I'm somewhat skeptical.

If I'm climbing on someone else's rope, I still wouldn't spend the time measuring out the middle mark at the top of the rap. What I would do is rappel with their middle mark, and keep an eye on the ends, like I always do. If the end of the ropes aren't even and I'm getting close to them, I would lock off one strand, and slip the other to even it out.

The middle mark isn't a safety device, it's a speed device. It saves the time spent adjusting rappels or measuring the rope (grabbing the ends and working to the middle). It helps you get the ends of the rope even. Having an accurate middle mark, or having the ends of the rope even is not a replacement for paying attention on rappels. It's still just as easy to rap off the end.

edit: I don't think it ever makes sense to rely on the middle mark to keep you from rappelling off the end of your rope. It implies that you are also relying on the fact that a fixed anchor will be 30 m below you, and those are both terrible assumptions.

What it boils down to is I disagree with Olderic saying double check your middle mark for the sake of safety. I don't think you should ever rely on the middle mark to keep you safe.


(This post was edited by Rudmin on Jun 1, 2012, 7:01 PM)


shockabuku


Jun 1, 2012, 8:51 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
olderic wrote:
When you get more experience you will realize that things are seldom as black and white as you think they are at this stage.

Experience trolling the internet? Give me a single logical reason, why I shouldn't use a middle mark to line up my rope on a rappel.

You're only argument so far was that my rope will be somehow shortened without my knowledge. I pointed out that if gear can dangerously change without your knowledge, then all sorts of crazy shit could happen that will kill you.

So you came back by calling me inexperienced. I'm sure that's always a good trump card to play every time you make up an arbitrary statements about rock climbing.

You know, that part I bolded above is actually a true statement.


socalclimber


Jun 1, 2012, 8:52 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
bagging as in saddlebagging or some variation thereoff ...

like i said if the wind is bowing like crazy, i prefer not to be throwing my ropes, knotted or unknotted ... they can get stuck either way ...

as to multi ... i run up a 6+ pitch multi on average 3+ times a week in climbing seasons and a 12+ pitch multi once a week at least ... some have rap offs, others dont

knotting is yr choice ... but like i said i would bet that more people die of rapping off the ends of the rope than getting stuck on rap ... especially when yr cold, tired, and hungry, in the dark ... or when yr in a rush ...

and no you dont trust middle marks or pattern changes unless its yr rope or you know its accurate ...

here my "clients" (im not a guide) on the last pitch of a 14 pitch multi last week ... walked right off Wink

[image]http://i46.tinypic.com/11vi6fk.jpg[/image]

Ok, no problems. My apologies for making an assumption. I still stand by my assertions though. And, I never trust middle marks.

" walked right off"

You bastard! Sly


shockabuku


Jun 1, 2012, 8:54 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Gotta tell you - I hate reading "..." and "yr" every 5-10 words with no capitals and periods.


socalclimber


Jun 1, 2012, 9:17 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Gotta tell you - I hate reading "..." and "yr" every 5-10 words with no capitals and periods.

yr not vry patient....


socalclimber


Jun 1, 2012, 9:18 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Sly


sungam


Jun 1, 2012, 9:30 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
The last thing I need is a stuck rope. And plenty people have died because they got stranded on a cliff face when bad weather rolled in. It happens.
Unfortunately a lad I knew got his ropes caught bailing from Fingers Ridge while a bad weather system was moving in. The clusterfuck slowed him down enough that he and his partner got caught in the meat of the storm and didn't make it back to the car, which in good conditions was about a 40 minute walk away. It's unclear if they had tied knots or not. At the same time I know a guy who rapped off the end of his rope in Ouray and fucked himself up a little bit.

I've only bagged a rope once due to wind, and it was a hassle - we weren't expecting to do so so the second's bag which we used had other shit in it.

Luckily I've never really been in a proper shit situation when it comes to rapping off, but I like to think I would be able to weigh up the pros and cons of stacking/bagging/knots/etc. to minimize risk if I did. Which I guess is all you can do - pick the technique least likely to end up with you fucked*.



*Interestingly this seems to be the complete opposite of college.


socalclimber


Jun 2, 2012, 12:58 AM
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Private message sent with an apology to beerbreader.


bearbreeder


Jun 2, 2012, 1:32 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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appreciated, but no need ... all of us RCers have flamed each other before ...

as long as everyone goes out, has a great time and bash n00bs (and majid) online its all good Wink


socalclimber


Jun 2, 2012, 1:36 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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Thank you much, but believe it or not, I suffer from a nasty streak of morality.

Cool


bhickey


Jun 2, 2012, 1:57 AM
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Re: [sungam] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
there is no real reason not to tie knots on the ends of your ropes, as you said it should really be done all the time

Two weeks ago a friend took a 4m fall on top-rope when the rope went through her belayer's device. As she went up he repositioned himself, moving backward and to lower ground. When he lowered her the rope came up short and she fell hitting her head on the ground. She got a CT scan and spent a night in the hospital for observation.

(This is the same friend who once took a massive groundfall on Frog's Head...)


billl7


Jun 2, 2012, 2:14 AM
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Re: [sungam] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Luckily I've never really been in a proper shit situation when it comes to rapping off, but I like to think I would be able to weigh up the pros and cons of stacking/bagging/knots/etc. to minimize risk if I did. Which I guess is all you can do - pick the technique least likely to end up with you fucked*.
Agreed. That's the nature of long days on a route. And as Joseph said upstream, stay vigilant about what is going on around you.

Bill L


*Interestingly this seems to be the complete opposite of college.


healyje


Jun 2, 2012, 5:52 AM
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Re: [billl7] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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I climb in the winter east winds in the Columbia River Gorge quite a lot in winds 30-50 and even 70 kts that can pull the rope straight out of your hands and bag streaming it horizontally in a heartbeat if you lapse your rope handling for even a moment. And while I always bag for raps in those conditions, you still end up with the rope out of the bag for pulls and there is always the potential for the ropes to hang up way, way out to the west of wherever you are if you fuck up so I never use knots on those occasions. The bag helps, but it by no means eliminates the problem.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 2, 2012, 10:12 AM)


patto


Jun 2, 2012, 9:29 AM
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Re: [healyje] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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The fundamental issue isn't the lack of knots. Its the lack of consideration of this danger. Those that tie knots in their ropes generally don't need their knots because they've already considered the issue.


An interesting question to consider is has ANYBODY ever been saved by knots in their abseil rope? Personally, I've reached my knots before. But I was watching them. It was a '40m' abseil with a doubled 60m rope. With stretch I was 3m off the ground. I just untied the knots and let the rope slip through and then down climbed the last 3m.


(This post was edited by patto on Jun 2, 2012, 9:31 AM)


billl7


Jun 2, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Re: [patto] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
The fundamental issue isn't the lack of knots. Its the lack of consideration of this danger. Those that tie knots in their ropes generally don't need their knots because they've already considered the issue.
Well, I suspect those knots can for some become a mindless habit and lead to other problems rather than being a sign of considering the possible issues each time.

A climbing acquaintance once tossed knotted ropes for rappel. The wind took the knots way off to the side and they got stuck in flake. For various reasons, the decision was to prusik out to the sticking point and free them, relying some on the stickage to get over there. This fellow is pretty conservative so I don't think swinging hard into something was a risk. But I can imagine someone risking serious injury from such a swing in desperation to avoid a hypothermic night or incoming bad weather.

A relative of mine once came close to rapping off the ends. It wasn't an issue with uneven ends. Nor was it really an issue with not realizing how close the length of the rap would be to the end of the rappel.

It was near the end of a long day in the Cascades of WA State, she was distracted while looking for the next set of anchors on a multi-rap descent. She rapped a bit farther than she needed to (I think) and suddenly saw that she was about 10 feet from the ends of the ropes.

The pros and cons of knots are serious. The issue of distraction or just not paying attention is serious. For me, the more unknowns or uncertainties on a given rap, the greater the tendency to think of backups and alternatives before going on rappel (i.e., along the lines of Magnus's point).

Bill L


mojomonkey


Jun 2, 2012, 1:30 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Gotta tell you - I hate reading "..." and "yr" every 5-10 words with no capitals and periods.

I'm just glad he actually discussed an issue, versus resorting to posting a picture where Chris Sharma had knots in the end of his rope and arguing that if a hard-climbing pro is doing it, it must be best. Or playing off a posters name to feel clever and superior. Or remarked on how stupid rc.com is... Wink


Gmburns2000


Jun 2, 2012, 3:23 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
Ain't that the truth. If we're not using my rope, I always ask, "how long is this rope?"

I got bit by that one a long time ago. Never again.

+1


majid_sabet


Jun 3, 2012, 2:51 AM
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Re: [Sumpumpolis] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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look back as you rap and monitor the ends.


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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 3, 2012, 4:35 PM)


Partner j_ung


Jun 3, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
if its that windy bag it ... you can still have knots just fine

its quite likely that more people have died rapping off ends than having knots stuck i cracks on windy days ...

Quite likely?? I would say its absolutely certain. People tend to epic when their ropes get stuck but the don't often die.

Epicing can be fun. Dying never is.

Just to join in the taking-everybody-literally trend... Dying is never fun? What if you had crotch fungus and a terminal heart condition and you could go out hate f^@&ing Ann Coulter?


Partner j_ung


Jun 3, 2012, 12:02 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
look back as you rap and monitor the ends.

^What he said. Whether I have knots in the ends or not. I may not always tie knots in my rap ropes, but I consider it every single time and I always keep a careful eye below me.


healyje


Jun 3, 2012, 1:21 PM
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Re: [j_ung] near death fall (45ft) [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
look back as you rap and monitor the ends.

^What he said. Whether I have knots in the ends or not. I may not always tie knots in my rap ropes, but I consider it every single time and I always keep a careful eye below me.

Same here. Bottom line is if you don't know exactly and for sure where you are relative to both ends of the rope you should be locked off sorting it out and not moving an inch until you have.

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