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granite_grrl
Apr 13, 2015, 8:21 PM
Post #104751 of 105309
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weke-end report
Finally got to climb outside on Sunday. Went to a south facing cliff and the weather was glorious! Went out with a few girl friends, and then I was a bum who ran off down the cliff and get top ropes from random people (who I mostly kinda knew) on harder lines there. While I can accept that my multi route endurance right now sucks, I don't really want to look in the guide book and see what I got on, as I suspect none of them were graded much harder than 5.10. 
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camhead
Apr 14, 2015, 1:24 AM
Post #104752 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment.
Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday.
Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!"
and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!"
Oh dear.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 14, 2015, 2:14 AM
Post #104753 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear.
For prosperity.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 14, 2015, 10:43 AM
Post #104754 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear.
He is Lithuanian, not Russian. And he is probably reading this. 
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camhead
Apr 14, 2015, 12:12 PM
Post #104755 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear. He is Lithuanian, not Russian. And he is probably reading this.
Haha!
Karen did take me down a bit. After some of the initial conversation, she said, "actually there are tons of better climbers than camhead in Fayetteville." And Russian Lithuanian guy was like, "yeah, but you don't see them at Bubba City!"
He definitely had a poynte.
They were a cool group. There were some others there who were total goobers, including a know-it-awl dad whom we yelled at for trying to stick his finger in a bolt hanger...
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dr_feelgood
Apr 14, 2015, 3:00 PM
Post #104756 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear. He is Lithuanian, not Russian. And he is probably reading this. Haha! Karen did take me down a bit. After some of the initial conversation, she said, "actually there are tons of better climbers than camhead in Fayetteville." And Russian Lithuanian guy was like, "yeah, but you don't see them at Bubba City!" He definitely had a poynte. They were a cool group. There were some others there who were total goobers, including a know-it-awl dad whom we yelled at for trying to stick his finger in a bolt hanger...
Degloving injuries are a selection mechanism. Why are you interfering with nature?
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Rokjox
Apr 14, 2015, 4:37 PM
Post #104757 of 105309
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Isn't THAT obvious?
Only thing better than seeing some annoying guy tear his finger off is being able to say, "I TOLD you so!".
You never know what you have managed to prevent, but sometime you know what you did not. Which makes a better story?
I am sure I have saved a couple lives, nobody cares or will ever give credit. If I had killed someone THAT would be a good tale.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 14, 2015, 5:22 PM
Post #104758 of 105309
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Rokjox wrote: Isn't THAT obvious? Only thing better than seeing some annoying guy tear his finger off is being able to say, "I TOLD you so!". You never know what you have managed to prevent, but sometime you know what you did not. Which makes a better story? I am sure I have saved a couple lives, nobody cares or will ever give credit. If I had killed someone THAT would be a good tale.
This is NOT a Lithuanian guy I was talking about. This is some other fly maggot.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 14, 2015, 5:26 PM
Post #104759 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear. He is Lithuanian, not Russian. And he is probably reading this. Haha! Karen did take me down a bit. After some of the initial conversation, she said, "actually there are tons of better climbers than camhead in Fayetteville." And Russian Lithuanian guy was like, "yeah, but you don't see them at Bubba City!" He definitely had a poynte. They were a cool group. There were some others there who were total goobers, including a know-it-awl dad whom we yelled at for trying to stick his finger in a bolt hanger...
I'm confused. How is sticking your finger into the bolt hanger different from sticking your finger into a pocket? 
And yeah, one of these days I'll get the amarius crew to go to the red instead. Then they'll see that Bubba Shitty is a true strong climber paradize.
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camhead
Apr 14, 2015, 5:32 PM
Post #104760 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear. He is Lithuanian, not Russian. And he is probably reading this. Haha! Karen did take me down a bit. After some of the initial conversation, she said, "actually there are tons of better climbers than camhead in Fayetteville." And Russian Lithuanian guy was like, "yeah, but you don't see them at Bubba City!" He definitely had a poynte. They were a cool group. There were some others there who were total goobers, including a know-it-awl dad whom we yelled at for trying to stick his finger in a bolt hanger... I'm confused. How is sticking your finger into the bolt hanger different from sticking your finger into a pocket? And yeah, one of these days I'll get the amarius crew to go to the red instead. Then they'll see that Bubba Shitty is a true strong climber paradize.
Endless Wall on Saturday was the busiest I had ever seen it. We even had to wait five minutes to get on a route!
It still did not even come close to something like Drive-by on a "normal" weekend.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 14, 2015, 11:41 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Rokjox wrote: Isn't THAT obvious? Only thing better than seeing some annoying guy tear his finger off is being able to say, "I TOLD you so!". You never know what you have managed to prevent, but sometime you know what you did not. Which makes a better story? I am sure I have saved a couple lives, nobody cares or will ever give credit. If I had killed someone THAT would be a good tale. This is NOT a Lithuanian guy I was talking about. This is some other fly maggot.
What she said.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2015, 3:27 PM
Post #104762 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment.
Ha ha!! Face palm.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2015, 3:28 PM
Post #104763 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment. Yeeeeah, Karen wuntzed to go climb moderates and had never been to Bubba Shitty. I sent a proj on Saturday, so she knew she could convince me to go there on Sunday. Have never had my balls cupped so hard. That Russian guy who knew you was like, "are you camhead? why are you climbing here!" and then when I offered some advice about lowering off of routes, he was telling his crew "listen to him, he's the closest thing to a pro climber that you'll see at Bubba City!" Oh dear.
Dear god.
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caughtinside
Apr 15, 2015, 3:30 PM
Post #104764 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: Rokjox wrote: Isn't THAT obvious? Only thing better than seeing some annoying guy tear his finger off is being able to say, "I TOLD you so!". You never know what you have managed to prevent, but sometime you know what you did not. Which makes a better story? I am sure I have saved a couple lives, nobody cares or will ever give credit. If I had killed someone THAT would be a good tale. This is NOT a Lithuanian guy I was talking about. This is some other fly maggot. What she said.
This guy is a legendary dufus on the taco.
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snoopy138
Apr 16, 2015, 12:19 AM
Post #104765 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: Rokjox wrote: Isn't THAT obvious? Only thing better than seeing some annoying guy tear his finger off is being able to say, "I TOLD you so!". You never know what you have managed to prevent, but sometime you know what you did not. Which makes a better story? I am sure I have saved a couple lives, nobody cares or will ever give credit. If I had killed someone THAT would be a good tale. This is NOT a Lithuanian guy I was talking about. This is some other fly maggot. What she said. This guy is a legendary dufus on the taco.
Yeah, but on their he's just yet another legendary dufus.
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cracklover
Apr 20, 2015, 3:32 PM
Post #104766 of 105309
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Well Camhead's timing is much better than mine was. Supposed to be great this week, last week was... not so much.
Beginning of the week was fine - had perfect weather for Castleton. Despite my being terribly out of shape for such things, I tried hard, and kept it together for the send. The rest of the week (when it wasn't snowing) I mostly kinda sucked. Though I did get in one FA OS, tiptoeing around death blocks, that I'm pretty proud of. That was in Hart's Draw. Just before the weather completely deteriorated.
GO
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 20, 2015, 3:55 PM
Post #104767 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: Well Camhead's timing is much better than mine was. Supposed to be great this week, last week was... not so much. Beginning of the week was fine - had perfect weather for Castleton. Despite my being terribly out of shape for such things, I tried hard, and kept it together for the send. The rest of the week (when it wasn't snowing) I mostly kinda sucked. Though I did get in one FA OS, tiptoeing around death blocks, that I'm pretty proud of. That was in Hart's Draw. Just before the weather completely deteriorated. GO
Sorry dude! But a bad vacation still beats working.
We decided not to go climbing this past weekend. It was raining Thursday and Friday, then 82F and Sunny on Saturday, and back to rain on Sunday. I am sure it was pretty muggy... plenty of people went, of course (complete with facebook updates of how great it was to finally go climbing outside again, summer is here, yay!!!!)
We stayed in town and started painting the basement. Painting wood paneling is SOOOO not fun. I've painted beadboard before, with great success, but this paneling has super-deep grooves that you can't just go over with with the roller, so it was brush painting the entire way. Spent all afternoon on Sunday, and didn't even finish priming... and the walls will need to have a second coat of primer before the paint can go on, yikes!
But it would be nice when we finish. :) sometime in the next century.
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granite_grrl
Apr 20, 2015, 5:16 PM
Post #104768 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Well Camhead's timing is much better than mine was. Supposed to be great this week, last week was... not so much. Beginning of the week was fine - had perfect weather for Castleton. Despite my being terribly out of shape for such things, I tried hard, and kept it together for the send. The rest of the week (when it wasn't snowing) I mostly kinda sucked. Though I did get in one FA OS, tiptoeing around death blocks, that I'm pretty proud of. That was in Hart's Draw. Just before the weather completely deteriorated. GO Sorry dude! But a bad vacation still beats working. We decided not to go climbing this past weekend. It was raining Thursday and Friday, then 82F and Sunny on Saturday, and back to rain on Sunday. I am sure it was pretty muggy... plenty of people went, of course (complete with facebook updates of how great it was to finally go climbing outside again, summer is here, yay!!!!) We stayed in town and started painting the basement. Painting wood paneling is SOOOO not fun. I've painted beadboard before, with great success, but this paneling has super-deep grooves that you can't just go over with with the roller, so it was brush painting the entire way. Spent all afternoon on Sunday, and didn't even finish priming... and the walls will need to have a second coat of primer before the paint can go on, yikes! But it would be nice when we finish. :) sometime in the next century.
We have really nice wood paneling from the 1960 era in our house. Real wood, not that printed stuff. We're not painting it, but will be pulling it all down. Kind of a pity, but it is very dated.
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cracklover
Apr 20, 2015, 6:38 PM
Post #104769 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Well Camhead's timing is much better than mine was. Supposed to be great this week, last week was... not so much. Beginning of the week was fine - had perfect weather for Castleton. Despite my being terribly out of shape for such things, I tried hard, and kept it together for the send. The rest of the week (when it wasn't snowing) I mostly kinda sucked. Though I did get in one FA OS, tiptoeing around death blocks, that I'm pretty proud of. That was in Hart's Draw. Just before the weather completely deteriorated. GO Sorry dude! But a bad vacation still beats working.
I never said bad vacation! Great vacation! Full of good weather, bad weather, lots of scary adventures of all kinds, some suckage as a climber, some rallying anyway. Plenty of disappointment, and plenty of surprising success. In short, good times!
GO
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cracklover
Apr 20, 2015, 7:09 PM
Post #104770 of 105309
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The day we did NFoC is boring - everything went according to plan. Here's a better story:
This is back in Hart's Draw. Kinda like the Creek, but with very little documentation. A lot more figure-it-out-as-you-go kinda place. No crowds. Actually no other climbers at all.
Woke up one morning after a cold night (it was down in the 20s - I planned on 40s) and it's cloudy and windy, so we're looking for maximum sun. My partner knows a cliff with a bunch of new routes on it, at moderate grades. It's a long approach (like an hour), but it should catch full sun (to the degree that we get any) all day. Only trouble is that he's only heard about which buttress it's on, and that's about it. So, he figures it might require "around a half hour of time to track down the routes once we get there."
There also might be potential for new routes in that area, so in addition to the rope, haul line, five sets of cams, we throw in the bolt kit. Did I mention the hour approach? It was a long slog with those packs.
After the bushwhacking trudge and loose talus slope with fifty pound packs is finally done, we wandered around for an hour before deciding, definitively, that this cliff has zero established routes. So we picked out the best line - what looked to be a sixty foot finger crack in good rock. Only trouble was that it was still freezing. Mmm, cold fingers in cold rock. We flipped for it, and I got the lead.
I planned to most likely aid through the crux, because near the top it looked like the crack narrowed to green and then maybe even blue Aliens, and there was a huge stack of detached rotten blocks teetering just a foot from the crack. Turned out I was able to hang on and keep my feet to the other side of the crack. Onsight! Pulled up the bolt kit, and... one hanger short. D'oh!
So my partner blames himself for not checking the kit, and runs(!) all the way back to the truck to grab more hangers and bolts, while I get in the first bolt and chain, drill and prep the next hole, clean and jug, and trundle the route. What a guy!
Turned out to be a pretty sweet climb, too, which I named "Bolting for Hangers".
With the additional bolts, he did another route next to that one. By then the weather had deteriorated, and it started snowing. Not quite as good a route, he named that one "Cold Leftovers".
Not the sunny day of moderates we had planned, but two good new routes, and a good story!
GO
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carabiner96
Apr 21, 2015, 1:40 AM
Post #104771 of 105309
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Weehew! Broke through some kind of ceiling this week and the 11's have been dropping like dominos, both inside and out. feels good!
Finally picked up the manderson's book and will be starting a cycle on Wednesday, with the end date being nationals. I'm also going to attempt the one handed habnoarding in the basement thing. Is the trango board worth the price, ya think?
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camhead
Apr 21, 2015, 2:24 AM
Post #104772 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Weehew! Broke through some kind of ceiling this week and the 11's have been dropping like dominos, both inside and out. feels good! Finally picked up the manderson's book and will be starting a cycle on Wednesday, with the end date being nationals. I'm also going to attempt the one handed habnoarding in the basement thing. Is the trango board worth the price, ya think?
Ewe should split the price of the trangoboard with someone who is missing the opposite hand as you, since it comes in two halves! Brilliant!
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camhead
Apr 21, 2015, 2:25 AM
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Hopping on MoonButt with Trashy tomorrow. Hopefully hilarity will ensue just a bit!
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carabiner96
Apr 21, 2015, 4:10 AM
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camhead wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Weehew! Broke through some kind of ceiling this week and the 11's have been dropping like dominos, both inside and out. feels good! Finally picked up the manderson's book and will be starting a cycle on Wednesday, with the end date being nationals. I'm also going to attempt the one handed habnoarding in the basement thing. Is the trango board worth the price, ya think? Ewe should split the price of the trangoboard with someone who is missing the opposite hand as you, since it comes in two halves! Brilliant!
er...wunderboi? That's actually a good idea as I knew a handful (get it?) of lefty gimp climbers.
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curt
Apr 21, 2015, 6:50 AM
Post #104775 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Weekend report. I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize. Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing? He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment.
Well, history and geography aren't the same thing.
Curt
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