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bouldering meccas....
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xanx


Jul 6, 2003, 5:39 PM
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ok i'm gonna just squeeze a few words in here:

it seems like i missed quite a few places... HP40, Castle Hill, India.... maybe jtree and yosemite... so thanks a lot everyone for ur input.

unfortunately, much space we wasted on pathetic attempts for people to hype up their own hometown spot and diss everyone else's. add the flames about lox, the war with curt.... it got a bit off topic for a while, so lets see if we can reign it in...

when I originally thought of my list of meccas, i thought to myself: if i had a million dollars and all the free time in the world, what are the places i would visit? where do i feel i HAVE to boulder before i die? volume of rock, quality of rock, surroundings, cool problems... everything together must be considered - the presence of a few historical problems does not make a mecca. there are plenty of good, even really good areas out there, but i am looking for the ones that everyone raves about (except for lox - we all already know he has a bit of a biased opinion against Bishop and for Hueco...).

a lot of the places people have mentioned have been contested and even debated a bit. this disqualifies them as meccas. even the presence of enough opposition to have a debate (even a tiny one) discredits teh place in my view. they are all probably still great places and worth a long trip, but they aren't "meccas" if there is opposition. (how many muslims do u think don't like Mecca?)

and thanks again for some good input...


pbjosh


Jul 6, 2003, 6:41 PM
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y'all better start running laps on the train now. 'cause your going along if'n ya wants to or not!

No worries (said with a very worried look), heh heh heh...


dalai


Jul 17, 2003, 3:25 AM
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For Bouldering Mecca's (going from Xanx's initially list)

Hueco Tanks, Tx is amazing - the restrictions now though must have a negative impact on it's standing globally.

Fontainebleau, France -Is brilliant but condition dependant, which is good if local, a hassle though if travelling.

Bishop, Ca - Now well developed with many diverse areas and styles.

Sheffield, England - Well spread out but many world class problems in the area.

Sissy Crag, Australia - Sydney has many good areas, but if in Australia the Stapylton ampitheatre (Hollow Mountain area) would be the pick.

Little Cottonwood, Utah - one of quite a few good area's now developed around Salt Lake city.

Rock Town South Africa looks really good.

Cressiano Numerous hard problems have been done here.

Castle Hill NZ is another brilliant area in the southern hemisphere and well worth a visit.


xanx


Jul 17, 2003, 3:48 AM
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ok looks like the two big placed in India are Hampi and Badami. apparently there is a place called "Flock Hill" in New Zealand, a lot like Castle Hill.

i do have a question, however: I always think of big walls when i think of Yosemite and trad/sport for J-tree. Is the bouldering there really on the same level as Bishop and Hueco? Would you travel half way around hte world just for the bouldering in those areas, or is the bouldering mainly a good suplement to the other stuff?

thoughts?


riceplate


Jul 18, 2003, 8:30 PM
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xanx --

Joshua tree has thousands of problems. You could boulder for months there, w/o roping up. Certainly there are more boulders there than ANY other place in the U.S. But, Rock quality is a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1 - 5 (5 being bomber).

Yosemite has some of the best granite bouldeing in the U.S. -- Midnight lightning is there. That is reason enough to make a pilgrimage. Camp 4 is but one of many areas down there. Probably 500 problems, at least w/ thousands more to develop. I've been to Yosemite to climb maybe 50 times and only roped up half a dozen or so of those. Rock Quality = 5. It doesn't get any better.


sharpender


Jul 21, 2003, 7:16 PM
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toonarmy wrote
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I had to wait in line behind hordes of visiting euros to climb the jam crack last time I was at Rubidoux

I've been to Rubidoux. :roll: :roll: :wink:

They don't call San Diego America's finest city because of the America's Cup. There is some word about the best weather in the world. But there is some rock here that has it's own name "Woodson Granite Odirite (SP?). It was stated to me by a geologist that this is the same rock that graces a place that climbers travel across the world to climb, just a silly little place called Joshua Tree. When you get done with the appraches, the thin edges, the friction, the jugs, offwidth and cracks at Woodson, you'll know that you have been to a Mecca. Hands down. Oh don't look up, cause the views from the Mountains to the Ocean aren't really there - just Hollywood backdrops. IMHO if you make your trip around the world to the bouldering areas you will remember your day(s) here as the best or near the best.

Enjoy


curt


Jul 21, 2003, 10:31 PM
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sharpender,

Although the bouldering is great at both Woodson and Joshua Tree, the geologist you cited is "out-to-lunch" on his rock type information. The rock at JT (white tank monzonite) is certainly NOT the same granite you have at Woodson.

Curt


bumpkin


Jul 21, 2003, 10:40 PM
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Huh? "white tank monzonite"? Unless "White Tank" is a locality name (like, "Conway granite" or "Wingate Sandstone"), what are we talking about?

"Odirite" is not a rock type, or a mineral, as far as I know.


sixter


Jul 21, 2003, 11:12 PM
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sharpender,

Although the bouldering is great at both Woodson and Joshua Tree, the geologist you cited is "out-to-lunch" on his rock type information. The rock at JT (white tank monzonite) is certainly NOT the same granite you have at Woodson.

Curt

Very correct Curt. My geology book says that the granite at Woodson is ONLY found there and the surrounding hills, and no place else on earth. I was stoked when I saw mention of Woodson in it. :D

oh, wait, or was that in Afoot and Afield in San Diego... :shock:


taorock


Jul 22, 2003, 2:04 AM
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maybe Sharpender meant to say granodiorite. :roll:


unrooted


Jul 22, 2003, 8:06 PM
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Joes Valley, Big bend, Ibex. Utah- the greatest place on earth (as long as you ignore the local population)

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