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climbhigh2005
Jan 26, 2004, 12:36 AM
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My climbing partner and I are slowly started to get into trad, but before we buy any gear, we wanna go with someone and learn all about it... anyone willing to take us somewhere and teach us? thanks
Melissa
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 1:04 AM
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How about chattanooga next saturday? I'm either going bouldering or trad climbing.
There's about a 75% chance that I'll be climbing. This is the most decisive I've been able to be this semester.
Josh, you reading this??? Lets do it.
Curt, feel like showing up and backing up your spray?
Jeff, Ice up that knee!
Travis<--climbing next weekend damnit
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climbhigh2005
Jan 26, 2004, 1:40 AM
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Travis.. I was just getting ready to email you about trad climbing.. LOL get on ur sn
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 4:24 AM
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Oh my Gawd, sport climbers teaching trad to boulder kids.
I'll be tradding this weekend for sure, but not at Twall. I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing.
I can't think of a better first follow and then lead than guzzler. Then there are a lot of easy dihedrals on down the trail.
Melissa, have you and your friends placed any gear at all? Do you have helmets?
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 4:38 AM
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In reply to: Oh my Gawd, sport climbers teaching trad to boulder kids. I'll be tradding this weekend for sure, but not at Twall. I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing. I can't think of a better first follow and then lead than guzzler. Then there are a lot of easy dihedrals on down the trail. Melissa, have you and your friends placed any gear at all? Do you have helmets?
Lost wall is about an hour farther than Twall, and is also pretty chossy. The saving grace is that Rocktown is at the top of the hill. However, I did take a group from UT down there a couple years ago, and had a couple of em leading guzzler by the end of the day. That probably is the best introductory trad climb in the south. Too bad the rest of the wall sucks donkey balls.
I dunno. It might be a good idea. Georgia rock has never really struck me as worth the drive though. Why in the hell do you like it so much curt? An old hardmanbruiser such as yourself aught to be spending more time in NC. I can't WAIT until the day I take you to stone mountain. Heh heh heh.
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whiteflash
Jan 26, 2004, 5:33 AM
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Ha, my first trad lead was on guzzler, and I agree on it being a good first one. Plus you can cheat the crux move(5.8) by using the ledge on the left.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 5:54 AM
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First of all, Travis you punk, you don'lt know crap about chossed wall if you thinkthe rest of it is poor quality. But that will change unless you are a blind as you are stupid, you slack jawed gap toothed drooling backwoods tennessee inbred hick who probably is playing his banjo minus a sstring and out of tune on the front porch wiht thre houndogs under it at this very minute..
Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em.
Whiteflash, the step off block is not a cheat, that is what makes guzzler a 5.8 (maybe the climb is even a 7?) If you pull straight up the crack, then you have allegedly pulled a 5.10 move.
I'm sure Travis the BOLD will pull straight through though.
YOu got one thing right travis, and that is better than usual. Guzzler is a very nice beginner climb.
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space_monkey
Jan 26, 2004, 7:02 AM
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Travis....T-wall......T-wall......T-wall
If you go there I will come down climb or sunset or even Suck creek, what the hell I'll climb anywhere down there.
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climbhigh2005
Jan 26, 2004, 12:12 PM
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thanks guys... I cant go anywhere this weekend, but the next weekend anyone wanna meet up? we've learned how to place gear and Simon has cleaned some trad leads... Ray Coucher offered to take us to NC... he refuses to climb anywhere else unless he is teaching a class...
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 1:38 PM
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In reply to: First of all, Travis you punk, you don'lt know crap about chossed wall if you thinkthe rest of it is poor quality. But that will change unless you are a blind as you are stupid, you slack jawed gap toothed drooling backwoods tennessee inbred hick who probably is playing his banjo minus a sstring and out of tune on the front porch wiht thre houndogs under it at this very minute.. Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em. Whiteflash, the step off block is not a cheat, that is what makes guzzler a 5.8 (maybe the climb is even a 7?) If you pull straight up the crack, then you have allegedly pulled a 5.10 move. I'm sure Travis the BOLD will pull straight through though. YOu got one thing right travis, and that is better than usual. Guzzler is a very nice beginner climb.
Easy there #1 stunna. I actually went farther than I ususally do, and agreed with you a little bit. Then you had to go and ruin it with the same old "punk" comments. Don't you know that crowder used those up long ago?
Regardless, my question still stands. I've walked for more than an hour along the base of that wall, and it remained a vegitated 50' choss pile for the entirety. Perhaps our definitions of "choss" are different. Perhaps the claim that you've got a couple of FA's there has turned your glasses a faint tint of rose. Perhaps you're a big old bag of crazy. But of course this is all just speculation.
Okay, now about the OR. Ever finished it? That's pretty lame if you're bragging about BAILING off a proud climb. Sit down.
And I've done Guzzler exactly 2 times. The first I stemmed out left at the roof, and the second I pulled straight through. I was stronger the second time I did it. What's your point? Either way it's well protected with a #11 BD nut, and thus is trivial.
You should expand your horizons a little Curt. You are the e-pit-oh-me of the holier than thou trad climber, when as far as I can tell, you've never even figured out what sport climbing and bouldering are all about.
It's a shame the the natural progression of climbers these days are from the boulders to sport to trad. I was exactly the opposite of that, and I believe my motivations to persue the simpler aspects of climbing are well founded, and pure. Hard (and even some easy) bouldering is the essence of what climbing is. Reduce it to movement over rock. Remove the gear. All of it. (I suspect this is what is especially hard for you, curt. I've seen your 300 pound rack) And focus on nothing more than the absolute perfection of movement.
Bagging long multipitch routes sure is fun. But it's a damn 'glorified hike' once you stack on the logistics of even a moderate 5 pitch climb.
Hell, maybe it's my youth that allows me to be open minded enough to see the place of all aspects of climbing, and the motivations of most real climbers.
"Punk". Heh. I've been called worse.
Don't break a hip old man. See you saturday.
YEEEEEEEE-HAW!!!!!11
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bumblie
Jan 26, 2004, 1:48 PM
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In reply to: Second, Um Travis, Have you led pitch 4 on the OR? Or P1 of the OR? I'd like to know what you thought about em.
How'd you like the upper part of the climb?
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styndall
Jan 26, 2004, 2:35 PM
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In reply to: I would not recommed Twall for a first trad trip anyway. Lost Wall is a much friendlier approach and has some good beginner climbs right at the start of the climbing
I wouldn't really say the T-Wall is a bad trip. My first trad climb (followed) was Art up there, and it was just about perfect. And really, Lost Wall's only virtue, so far as I can tell, is its proximity to Rocktown. Hell, I've only ever visited Lost Wall as a quick stop on my way to the boulders.
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rrrADAM
Jan 26, 2004, 2:37 PM
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Travis... I'm back in Clemson, and went to Rumbling Bald with Nick and Blake, and they had great things to say about you, as I guess you guys all camped together out at Horse Pens.
DAMMIT !!! We gotta hook up bra !!! :!:
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Easy there #1 stunna. I actually went farther than I ususally do, and agreed with you a little bit. Then you had to go and ruin it with the same old "punk" comments. Don't you know that crowder used those up long ago?
When dealing wiht a true punk, even crowder can't use them all up hahaha.
In reply to: Regardless, my question still stands. I've walked for more than an hour along the base of that wall, and it remained a vegitated 50' choss pile for the entirety. Perhaps our definitions of "choss" are different. Perhaps the claim that you've got a couple of FA's there has turned your glasses a faint tint of rose. Perhaps you're a big old bag of crazy. But of course this is all just speculation.
IF you really walked for an hour and didn't see anything but choss at 50 feet or less, you need to stop tieing your shoe laces together LOL. Learn to hide your obvious jealousy a little better sonny boy. YOU won't know real choss till you climb "Bob Roterert and the Chossy Mmountain Boys", but you ain't near ready for that one.
In reply to: Okay, now about the OR. Ever finished it? That's pretty lame if you're bragging about BAILING off a proud climb. Sit down.
BRAGGING? No dear lad, that's what you do. I merely asked if you had led a couple of pitches and what you thought about em. Since you keep changing the subject and foaming at the mouth, apparently you have not led em. Yes, someone shoudl sit down, and it's you!
In reply to: You should expand your horizons a little Curt. You are the e-pit-oh-me of the holier than thou trad climber, when as far as I can tell, you've never even figured out what sport climbing and bouldering are all about.
Travis you should talk about things you know. IF you ever get the nerve I'll put you on a few of the bouldering highballs I have enjoyed. I'm not much of a boulderer, but I do it a lot and started out boudlering. As for sport climbing, that's for little wennie boy wanna-be climbers like yourself.
In reply to: It's a shame the the natural progression of climbers these days are from the boulders to sport to trad. I was exactly the opposite of that, and I believe my motivations to persue the simpler aspects of climbing are well founded, and pure. Hard (and even some easy) bouldering is the essence of what climbing is. Reduce it to movement over rock. Remove the gear. All of it. (I suspect this is what is especially hard for you, curt. I've seen your 300 pound rack) And focus on nothing more than the absolute perfection of movement.
Once more, the boulder problems are waiting for you, about 15 minutes down the road from me. After seeing you hangdog on a sport climb for about an hour (speaking of that climb, I climbied it at twice your age and didn't hangdog it at all, PUNK, hehehe), I wonder how you will do on boulder problems that are about 20 feet high and three times harder... SInce you go to Shyte Rock a bit, go loook up DCB11 and climb it, let me know what you think. I'm just going to assume that with all this talk of bouldering and being in the south and all, you will know what DCB stands for, and who it is referring to. HAHAHA.
In reply to: Hell, maybe it's my youth that allows me to be open minded enough to see the place of all aspects of climbing, and the motivations of most real climbers.
No, it's your youth that clouds your perspective, forcing you to think you know everything when you know nothing LOL.
In reply to: "Punk". Heh. I've been called worse.
Yes, and I'd call you worse but I don't wat to hurt your youthful feelings dear boy.
In reply to: Don't break a hip old man. See you saturday.
I thought you said friday? And anyway, if I do break a leg, I'll still outclimb you.
We do need to work out the details. I think we ran off the little girl and her friends for this week. That's too bad, you know we trad climbers like to feast on the bones of young sport climbers and boulderers muahahahaha.
Better switch to PM Phone or messages, the natives think we are serious.
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bigwallgumbie
Jan 26, 2004, 3:23 PM
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I basically learned to climb at lost wall and I gotta say, its a pile compared to t-wall. Lost walls got some nice routes, but at damn near every grade (5.7 for 5.7, 8 for 8, 9 for 9, and above) twall's overall quality blows chossed wall away. I remember a couple of the harder routes looking good (little league and gorillas that are pissed mabey?) but by the time i was climbing at that level I'ld fully moved to twall.
Bottom line: twalls taller, more sustained, more concentrated, less humid, prettier, more jammy (jam! Jam! JAM!), way more fun, a more quality experience and the approach is a casually warm up (if you don't believe that, get outa the south redneck).
RE: whitesides:
Been there, done that. The first pitch was a little hard for my effective first solo, kinda curious what it would feel like now (probably scare the shit outa me). The right 5.7 variation with the bendy flakes ("don't pull to hard or the gear will fall out dude!") was far more fun. Isn't the 4th pitch the easy 40' approach pitch to the cresent? I remeber that being pretty chill compared to the rest of the route. Hehe, I almost took a HUGE winger after kinda-hucking to a hold that was supposed to be a jug a couple feet under the belay bolts for the crux pitch. You really should go back and finish that route curt, topping out is a blast.
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: Better switch to PM Phone or messages, the natives think we are serious.
Word. This sure is fun, but since no one is piling on, I can only assume that they feel sorry for you, and the in-till-ec-shoe-al thrashing you're taking.
Adam,
I've got so little free time, I can barely work in an evening wank session. After this week I think I might be able to get a little more, however. We'll see.
BWG,
Funny how me and OldClimber bitching brings the scc board guys outta the woodworks. Hahahaha. Good to see you around again.
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: and the approach is a casually warm up (if you don't believe that, get outa the south redneck).
Have you ever seen how much gear he carries? If I brought a double rack of Giant cams and big bro's with me every where I went, I'd be complaining too.
OH, Don't forget the mirror image astro nuts that Metolious made in '97. Those are important! Hahahaha.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 4:22 PM
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Mike, no p 4 is the anklebreaker. p5 is the breezy one, fun even when running water. P 6 is the crescent pitch. MC and I decided that with a small waterfall running over the belay for the start of the crescent pitch and a party stuck on it above us that we would just bail, and it was a good idea cause two times rocks came rolling down as we rapped. they had a 'hold' or two break on em.
P1 of the OR was good fun, even when a little damp, but I'd much rather do it dry next time. I know once you said you went where that old aluminum hanger is, actually that is close to the way I had to go, following the dryer spots, and Scott Perkins said that way is a little harder than the true start to the OR, but the day we were there the easier part was running water.
I wanna go finish the thing, Maybe with Jeff Noffsinger as he wants to see if he can squeeze in a new route to the right of the OR somewhere.
Yes if you are in chattavegas Twall is better than chossed wall, but for a first time trad trip, I really think Chossy is better. Yes little league is a hell of a route, and there are a bunch like it down there, if you ever saw 5 star sex you'd put it on your list too. The nether world at choosed is a great area, but unless you take the roll down it is a very long walk. Pappy loves the place for a reason. There area couple of routes with roofs that have never gone free, in the 12 range, one is either batman or little league I think. We were gonna put Arno on em, but it was too wet that day.
For the record, there are chossy areas at LW but a lot of the rock there is as hard or harder than at Twall. There are a bunch of high quality leadable faces at LW, like the jedi, and soon to be a few more. The biggest problem with climbs at LW is that they don't get done enough to stay relatively clean. On the other hand, when you do a little dusting off, the rock is like velcro cause it does not get polished by use. One other good thing, there is not a chalk path to follow at LW ( sorry travis, you'll just have to figure it out on your own LOL)
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 4:25 PM
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I don't need a chalk path to follow.
Following a CRACK sure is nice though!!! hahaha.
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol:
Mike B., go back to lurking :lol: :lol:
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bumblie
Jan 26, 2004, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol:
But not nearly as impressive. Some might even consider it a failure.
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 4:43 PM
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In reply to: But not nearly as impressive.
Yeah, wtf ever, I personally don't have such requirements in my own aspirations.
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 5:13 PM
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HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHH!
This is some funny sheot!
The SE climbers ranting finds a new forum!!!
Pissing match over the OR, you'll should be ashamed!
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 5:17 PM
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Ha! The crawler's crawled out of hiding!!!
Next, Pappy's gonna chime in.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 5:47 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Bailing off the OR is about as scary as climbing it. :lol: But not nearly as impressive. Some might even consider it a failure.
Some might, but not the smart ones LOL.
When you can go lead it wet with a party stalled above then you can talk. Nobody got up the last three pitches of the OR that day without help from above, the first party finished on traditions, the second had a line lowered by the first party and we bailed from the belay off the start of the 6th pitch.
Crowder and SP and JC considered it the smart thing to do, and since Those guys have done the OR to the point of nausea they just might know what they are talking about.
It was a good climb though, so I'll go finsih it this spring or summer.
Rapping off was a lot of fun. I think we went from the top of p5 to the belay for p3 via a little traverse at the end of the first rappel and then to the ground from there. Gotta love 60 meter doubles.
Crawler, it's not a pissing match, The only person pissing about it is bumbler. Travis wants to do the OR and this is his way of drumming up interest. Travis you know the deal is the new guy has to lead the first pitch right? It's a tradition.
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I've been hiding at T-wall!
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 5:53 PM
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I was just surprised you guys hadn't done it. That's all! There's so much better stuff to do at Whitesides, it seemed funny to "have you led this pitch or that pitch" about the OR.
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goldencrowbar
Jan 26, 2004, 5:53 PM
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The OR is a fun route to watch. I saw a guy spend close to an hour tangled up in a bush once.
Oh, another latte, I'll leave you guys in peace now.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 5:56 PM
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In reply to: I've been hiding at T-wall!
Are you the same guy I watched on five star sex at Chossed Wall? Scott said he has never red pointed it. If I can lose about 15 pounds and get my shoulder to work again I want to try that route, probably will get spanked hard though.
Have you ever don Jedi at LW by the way? That's another Corbett favorite. We keep walking by it for the new (easier) stuff LOL, but one day, it's just going to reach out and grab me by the collar.
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 5:59 PM
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Sheesh, I haven't made this many posts on this website in months.
I'd like to do the OR, but it's not high up on my hit list. I'm not worried about a no pro first pitch. I'm one those wierd people who actually enjoys friction climbing. Stone Mountain is one of my favorite crags. I'd be most worried about poorly protected climbing above.
I get wiggy with shatty pro way up off the deck. Ask bumblie. Hahahaha, he's seen me at my BEST! Hahahahaha.
Okay, now I'm REALLY done for the day. I gotta write a friggin paper, and I keep on coming back to this damn website.
[banjo]
Said her name was Mimi
Met her on my CB
Sounded like an angel come to earth
(come to earth)
When I went to meet her,
Man you should have seen her,
Twice as tall as me 3 times the girth
(girth)
My fat baby loves to eat
(loves to eat)
With a big ole budda belly, and her breasts swing past her feet
(feet)
My fat baby loves to eeeEEEEEeeat
My big old fat ass baby loves to eat.
[/banjo]
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 6:01 PM
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tis I! You watched me hang on it. I'd done it before but it got me that day. Revenge of the Jedi? I've done it. The clmbings not too bad, but heady in spots.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 6:15 PM
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In reply to: tis I! You watched me hang on it. I'd done it before but it got me that day. Revenge of the Jedi? I've done it. The clmbings not too bad, but heady in spots.
Jedi style climbing is my favorite, especially with this shoulder thing-- can't reach up and pull on a hand jam, DOH!
Let's see, you had one little fall on five star that day, not much of a hang at all, still an impressive climb. To me, a climb that you fall on and then finish is harder than a redpoint cause you have to climb a hard section twice.
Now Travis, you'll get plenty of crap gear for pro climbing practice this weekend if it does not rain.
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 6:24 PM
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Look at this next time your at Chossed Wall.
Climb into the boxed corner of Samurai on the right side. Traverse right around the corner onto the face. Trend up and right across the face linking gear features to a flake system above. Steep face climbing on ample gear with great exposure.
The direct start off the boulder will go the spring I reckon.
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 6:34 PM
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Thanks for the tip.
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jcclimbs
Jan 26, 2004, 8:23 PM
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Crawler, I saw your chalk on the climb out of Samurai awhile back. Looked cool. I also checked out the direct start off the boulder. You'd better hurry. And if you've never done The Show, you need to.
Trav, I hope your judgement is better than it appears to be.
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: Crawler, I saw your chalk on the climb out of Samurai awhile back. Looked cool. I also checked out the direct start off the boulder. You'd better hurry. And if you've never done The Show, you need to. Trav, I hope your judgement is better than it appears to be.
Ka-ching!
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 8:32 PM
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In reply to: Crawler, I saw your chalk on the climb out of Samurai awhile back. Looked cool. I also checked out the direct start off the boulder. You'd better hurry. And if you've never done The Show, you need to. Trav, I hope your judgement is better than it appears to be.
LOL Jeff was right!
Jimbo, what judgement are you talking about, Travis has already shown he has almost none by climbing with me HEHEHE.
Let's take a look at that direct start Zac mentioned, but really we need to pull off those thorns nest to southern soft men and beat it into submission first. I gotte remember to put some clippers in the van.
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: Crawler, I saw your chalk on the climb out of Samurai awhile back. Looked cool. I also checked out the direct start off the boulder. You'd better hurry.
Haha! Hurry? I only just did that line three years ago.LOL Have at it! I know of a few "easy" faces that have v7 boulder starts right in there. Chossed Wall is a good place to go when T-wall is too hot or closed. I'll be there in the spring. The Show fo sho! Is 5 Star still the hardest thing down there. I reckon not anymore, huh?
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 8:53 PM
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In reply to: I gotte remember to put some clippers in the van.
Dear god. You've got to be kidding. Fukkin vegitation...
Vegitation = Choss
When I maybe get to do 2 days of climbing a month, I'm not so keen on spending that valuable time as a lawn service. Tell you what, it's not the fire season. How about I bring a jug of gas, we pour it down from the top, then go climb something else after tossing a carefully calibrated match.
You see? Ideas like this are why they pay me the big bucks.
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 8:56 PM
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I like it that we've managed to keep this up on the home page most of the day! It's good to have locals posting up!
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 8:58 PM
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In reply to: Vegitation = Choss
HA! In N.C.:
vegetation=pro
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smithclimber
Jan 26, 2004, 9:00 PM
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Geez, talk about hi-jacked threads. :roll:
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the_crawler
Jan 26, 2004, 9:00 PM
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Clippers and thorns!!!!!!!!!!!! HHahahahahaah!
I thought he was talking code for some kind of climbing gear! haha
Gardening on a climbing day?
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dirtineye
Jan 26, 2004, 9:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I gotte remember to put some clippers in the van. Dear god. You've got to be kidding. Fukkin vegitation... Vegitation = Choss When I maybe get to do 2 days of climbing a month, I'm not so keen on spending that valuable time as a lawn service. Tell you what, it's not the fire season. How about I bring a jug of gas, we pour it down from the top, then go climb something else after tossing a carefully calibrated match. You see? Ideas like this are why they pay me the big bucks.
Whoa travy-boy, I was talking aboutthe clippers to Jimbo, not you. I have better sense than to put you on a possible 5.12 trad line with thin gear, especially one that you have to pull the brias off. In fact, I have better wense than to put me on a 5.12, I hope LOL.
Matches? Gasoline? Have you considered applying for a job at a major climbing magazine?
I see taht your definitions need adjusting trav. Loose rock = choss, vegetation = that which calls for gardening.
No dear trav, you will be getting on cleaned rock, so that you will have as little reason as possible for all the whining you will do.
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tenn_dawg
Jan 26, 2004, 9:08 PM
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Here's an analogy that I just thought up, just now.
Climbing a dirty, vegitated, choss pile is like boinking a fat, ugly, elderly woman. You ain't gonna catch me on either.
BUT this analogy causes a new line of logic in my 'punk' mind. Perhaps it is your preoccupation with the above mentioned women, that explains your preverse pleasure in climbing the above mentioned choss.
Hmmm. A connection Holmes?
Hahaha, it's great when all of us start posting.
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tradpuppy
Jan 26, 2004, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Geez, talk about hi-jacked threads. :roll: I think it's more of a circle jerk. :roll:
or one of those woodland drumming and bongo sessions. :P
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bigwallgumbie
Jan 26, 2004, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: How about I bring a jug of gas, we pour it down from the top, then go climb something else after tossing a carefully calibrated match. You see? Ideas like this are why they pay me the big bucks. Matches? Gasoline? Have you considered applying for a job at a major climbing magazine?
Not so fast there old man, don't forget where yer livin' Gasing the side of a cliff is acceptable style for cliff cleanin in Joyga, the precedent has already been set. Even mentioned in the guide book...
Man, I haven't set anything on fire in a while... now where'ld i leave the pbr and litghter fluid....
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 1:12 AM
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between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P Sorry, but i don't think you are fat, ugly, or elderly enough
I'm confused
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goldencrowbar
Jan 27, 2004, 1:56 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I gotte remember to put some clippers in the van. Dear god. You've got to be kidding. Fukkin vegitation... Vegitation = Choss When I maybe get to do 2 days of climbing a month, I'm not so keen on spending that valuable time as a lawn service. Tell you what, it's not the fire season. How about I bring a jug of gas, we pour it down from the top, then go climb something else after tossing a carefully calibrated match. You see? Ideas like this are why they pay me the big bucks.
darn I just remembered something. Acouple of years ago I pulled a ton of poison ivy off of a face there. I never did go back and climb it
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norskagent
Jan 27, 2004, 1:56 AM
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did the o.r. twice in the 80s...before the lone bolt was placed on pitch 1, which was a retreat bolt placed due to a broken ankle that occured at the pitch 4 ledge...
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 2:54 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P Sorry, but i don't think you are fat, ugly, or elderly enough I'm confused
Well Melissa, you are supposed to be an old, crotchety fat male to be a real trad climber. After seeing you in person, I don't think you fit the bill.
In reply to: darn I just remembered something. Acouple of years ago I pulled a ton of poison ivy off of a face there. I never did go back and climb it
Haha, there are a few climbs like that, one's been puuled out from under a roof for petes sake, I forget the name though, adn one is waiting to be done-- just covered in PI. Where is your face Stephen? I wonder ifthe vines grew back yet?
In reply to: did the o.r. twice in the 80s...before the lone bolt was placed on pitch 1, which was a retreat bolt placed due to a broken ankle that occured at the pitch 4 ledge...
Hmmm, if it is that caver aluminum hanger it is a little left of the true P1 for the OR according to SP, and it seems to be a little low down for a rescue. How did tha tbolt wind up there? Seems like a rap on two 50's from the start of P4 would put you higher than that bolt. Or maybe I'm talking about a different bolt?
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norskagent
Jan 27, 2004, 3:09 AM
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I don't know, maybe it was pulled...all I know is my good friend busted his ankle on that ledge and a bolt was placed on the P1 slab for him to get down.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 3:19 AM
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In reply to: I don't know, maybe it was pulled...all I know is my good friend busted his ankle on that ledge and a bolt was placed on the P1 slab for him to get down.
I felll out of the ankle breaker slot 4 times before I got up it, the stupid thing was wet and you couldn't get your hands up the little rail at all that day. I can see how if you twisted wrong as you fell your foot could stay in the slot a little too long adn break the ankle. I think mine was a little sore.
The only bolt I know of on that slab is pretty low down, between 40 and 60 feet up the slab? Maybe they had a long rope and got to that bolt spot from the P4 belay. that would maybe be 200 feet or so? I don't know, just guessing.
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tradpuppy
Jan 27, 2004, 5:03 PM
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Any bolt that may have on the actual route was not present last spring.
So who's coming, Melissa, Travis, Curt? Curt, are you going to the "bigdaddy" faceoff?
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the_crawler
Jan 27, 2004, 5:33 PM
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Keep the "faceoff" dates posted. I gotta see that! LOL
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the_crawler
Jan 27, 2004, 5:39 PM
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In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P
I will say seriously thought, there is alot you could learn from these guys if you can stand all the testosterone and postureing of older men!
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one900johnnyk
Jan 27, 2004, 5:47 PM
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if the weather's nice, i may be at t wall this wknd...
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tenn_dawg
Jan 27, 2004, 6:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P I will say seriously thought, there is alot you could learn from these guys if you can stand all the testosterone and postureing of older men!
I'm just a young punk. Just barely drinking legal. There are few things I enjoy more than antagonizing the old guys. You should have seen what me and crowder got into a few months back. Now THAT was some grade A flaming.
Hahaha, thinking about it still makes me laugh.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 6:54 PM
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LOL the "faceoff", is not goingto be a faceoff at all, I don't go climbing to face off with other climbiers. But it looks like we will get to do a good route together before long.
Travis is all flame and no heat LOL. But I think he puts the testosterone to use on the hotties at UT.
So Travis, are you still coming to Lost wall friday and satureday or is it a bail? Enquiring minds want to know!
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 6:57 PM
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In reply to: Any bolt that may have on the actual route was not present last spring. So who's coming, Melissa, Travis, Curt? Curt, are you going to the "bigdaddy" faceoff?
Jeff, if it was dry that day you went, you woudl not have seen the bolt if it is the one I am thinking of. It's over left. IT's also too low to do much good on the ascent, which makes me think it must be where the longest rap would take the rescue party. I guess.
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the_alpine
Jan 27, 2004, 7:04 PM
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This shite is funny. I can't believe you guys are spraying about the cattle route that is the O.R. AND debating the choss/non-choss factor of the Lost Wall. Go CLIMBING!
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one900johnnyk
Jan 27, 2004, 7:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P I will say seriously thought, there is alot you could learn from these guys if you can stand all the testosterone and postureing of older men! I'm just a young punk. Just barely drinking legal. There are few things I enjoy more than antagonizing the old guys. You should have seen what me and crowder got into a few months back. Now THAT was some grade A flaming. Hahaha, thinking about it still makes me laugh.
they are jealous of our youth and vigor...
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tradpuppy
Jan 27, 2004, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: This s--- is funny. I can't believe you guys are spraying about the cattle route that is the O.R. AND debating the choss/non-choss factor of the Lost Wall. Go CLIMBING!
Here in Chatt. you can spray AND climb!
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jcclimbs
Jan 27, 2004, 7:51 PM
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Crawler, the hardest routes still have not been freed: Petrified, Little League, and Pipedream. WTF are you waiting for?
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 8:11 PM
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In reply to: I will say seriously thought, there is alot you could learn from these guys if you can stand all the testosterone and postureing of older men!
Just becasue I'm old doesn't mean you can learn anything from me. But at least I know better than to live in TAMPA LOL.
Now that JCclimbs fellow, you can learn a lot from him-- like nver follow him up a gully in the dark!
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the_crawler
Jan 27, 2004, 8:34 PM
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First off Dirt, I don't live in Tampa!
Second of all I'm doing better stuff at T-wall right now. I just was thinking last night how all those one aid move lines need to be cleaned up proper like. As soon as they close T-wall for hunting I'll be there!
This a great thread! Hi-jacked but fun!
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goldencrowbar
Jan 27, 2004, 8:55 PM
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Hey Crawler, I think I stumbled upon one of your problems at Oconee the other day. A smooth face with acrack and a rounded arete just to the right. It was fun.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 8:59 PM
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In reply to: First off Dirt, I don't live in Tampa! Second of all I'm doing better stuff at T-wall right now. I just was thinking last night how all those one aid move lines need to be cleaned up proper like. As soon as they close T-wall for hunting I'll be there! This a great thread! Hi-jacked but fun!
I know where you live crawler ( NO I am NOT stalking you like some canadian aid clibmer!)
I was referring to the_alpine, who does live in tampa.
Stephen your assistance is still needed in the awards and nominees threads LOL.
Shut up and sit down, this thread is going to Cuba!
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goldencrowbar
Jan 27, 2004, 9:03 PM
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Calvin, you'll just have to bear with me as I'm at work right now
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 9:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: between travis and curt this forum has turned into a chatrooom or something... LOL All I wanted was to find some people to trad climb with... :P I will say seriously thought, there is alot you could learn from these guys if you can stand all the testosterone and postureing of older men!
yeah I know... they are both really great "men" LOL Although Curt can act Travis's age sometimes! :P But seriously I've learned almost everything I know from Travis!
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 9:46 PM
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In reply to: Any bolt that may have on the actual route was not present last spring. So who's coming, Melissa, Travis, Curt? Curt, are you going to the "bigdaddy" faceoff?
need more info
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the_crawler
Jan 27, 2004, 9:55 PM
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There is a bolt out in the middle of the big slab, about 3/4 of the way up I think. My understanding is this is not the original first pitch of the OR. My understanding is that the first pitch goes up the slab about half way between that bolt and the shortest way to the ledge on the far right. About 100ft of unprotected slab. 7ish.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 10:11 PM
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In reply to: yeah I know... they are both really great "men" LOL Although Curt can act Travis's age sometimes! :P But seriously I've learned almost everything I know from Travis!
This is very bad. I have to assume then that you know almost nothing, becasue Travis knows mostly nothing LOL. HELL the kid thinks an egyptian is a knee drop for pete's sake. I mean really now.
As far as me acting Travis' age, I take umbrage at that remark. I try very hard to model my behavior after Calvin, as in Calvin & Hobbes. The least you could do is notice.
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 10:21 PM
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In reply to: As far as me acting Travis' age, I take umbrage at that remark. I try very hard to model my behavior after Calvin, as in Calvin & Hobbes. The least you could do is notice.
ok nvm mind.. you act very old... LOL sincing you completly lost this youngen with what you just said... what does umbrage mean? Did I mention I have a very limited vocab?
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 10:28 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: As far as me acting Travis' age, I take umbrage at that remark. I try very hard to model my behavior after Calvin, as in Calvin & Hobbes. The least you could do is notice. ok nvm mind.. you act very old... LOL sincing you completly lost this youngen with what you just said... what does umbrage mean? Did I mention I have a very limited vocab?
You mean, you never heard of calvin and hobbes? DIE HERETIC!
Umbrage, well, let's see, in a nutshell, to take umbrage woudl mean to have resntment. I Guess I am old, don't people use dictionaries any more?
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tenn_dawg
Jan 27, 2004, 10:31 PM
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The schitzophrenia causes him to have these little typing 'ticks' sometimes.
Like turhs, and thart.
Heh.
And damnit curt. I can't believe you...the decripid trad climber who has never even USED a drop knee is gonna use THAT as ammo.
Your perception of my climbing knowledge is without a doubt correct however. How do you get the rope up there anyway? Hahaha!
Youth and Intelligence triumph over Age and Senility any day of the week. Or as my good friend once said, "Damn, you've got enough spunk to fill 3 banny roosters!"
COCK-a-doodle DOOOOooooo!!!!
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jcclimbs
Jan 27, 2004, 11:00 PM
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Crawler, no question T-Wall tops Chossed Wall. Also no question that the best of Chossed Wall would still rank among the best of T-Wall if moved. And there are still some mean projects at LW that have never even been attempted.
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climbhigh2005
Jan 27, 2004, 11:01 PM
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so you "take in a nutshel" that remark? LOL :lol:
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 11:11 PM
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In reply to: so you "take in a nutshel" that remark? LOL :lol:
Well you almost got it darlin'.
What I should have said was, IF you are in a nutshell, THEN umbrage means resentment. Any logical folk out there will realize that this statement does not prevent umbrage meaning resentment when out of a nutshell.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 11:15 PM
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In reply to: The schitzophrenia causes him to have these little typing 'ticks' sometimes. Like turhs, and thart. Heh. And damnit curt. I can't believe you...the decripid trad climber who has never even USED a drop knee is gonna use THAT as ammo. Your perception of my climbing knowledge is without a doubt correct however. How do you get the rope up there anyway? Hahaha! Youth and Intelligence triumph over Age and Senility any day of the week. Or as my good friend once said, "Damn, you've got enough spunk to fill 3 banny roosters!" COCK-a-doodle DOOOOooooo!!!!
YOU young puppy, I'll show you a drop kick if you're not careful!
As for me being decrepit and old, I'd thrash you soundly if I could remember what it was about.
That line about how do you get the rope up there, I think that is either a rockland myth, or a true story that has happened more than once when non climbers stumbled upon some climbers.
But since you obviously don't know Travis, I'll tell you. It's a secret.
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the_crawler
Jan 27, 2004, 11:19 PM
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In reply to: Crawler, no question T-Wall tops Chossed Wall. Also no question that the best of Chossed Wall would still rank among the best of T-Wall if moved. And there are still some mean projects at LW that have never even been attempted.
No dobt! I know of two roofs and an arete that I know have not been done, that would be three star for sure and hard! There are lots of great routes there and as I have said come spring I'll be there trying to send some of them. I think the fact that there is only one route listed in the guide harder than 12a speaks volumes for the FA potential there!
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tenn_dawg
Jan 27, 2004, 11:45 PM
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A secret huh? I always figured it was magic...
In other news, I give it 90% I'll be there on Saturday. Friday is still up in the air. You want me to bring any booze if I come down Friday? I got whiskey and whiskey. Take your pick. If we bring enough, we won't even have to build a fire.
Strangely I'm kind of motivated upon hearing of unclimbed roofs at down at Chossville. I'll bring the FA stuff. (Yes, suprisingly I DO have FA stuff, who'd a thunk it?) hahaha.
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dirtineye
Jan 27, 2004, 11:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Crawler, no question T-Wall tops Chossed Wall. Also no question that the best of Chossed Wall would still rank among the best of T-Wall if moved. And there are still some mean projects at LW that have never even been attempted. No dobt! I know of two roofs and an arete that I know have not been done, that would be three star for sure and hard! There are lots of great routes there and as I have said come spring I'll be there trying to send some of them. I think the fact that there is only one route listed in the guide harder than 12a speaks volumes for the FA potential there!
Well, one that should be at least an 11 is going this sunday, as long as JC will show up. I'm pulling the briars off friday or saturday Jim, get your no wussing undies on.
Zac we put Arno on a line that has a move that is harder than B-52's from the look of it, if the thing can be done without aid.
I have a feeling that someone will finish this thing before long though, probably Arno, probably not me LOL, unless I get very very lucky. It's a hell of a line though. At least two very difficult sections, Arno got through one already. It's left of whistling past the boneyard, if that tells you anything.
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climbhigh2005
Jan 28, 2004, 2:04 AM
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haha I love you guys!
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2004, 3:41 AM
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In reply to: haha I love you guys!
hey is that an indedent proposal?
Um, I'm not too sure about myself, but crawler and JCclimbs are the part of the real deal in southern climbing.
Seriously Melissa, wanna come to lost wall and help clean routes? It's really fun! And there really are some good learner climbs there.
I'll teach you what travis can't-- like how to use things like hexes and tricams adn ball nutx oh my! There's mroe to trad than cams and nuts my dear.
Now close your eyes, click your heels together and say three times, "There's no piece like a passive piece.".
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the_alpine
Jan 28, 2004, 3:55 AM
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Hey Dirt............ what's so bad about Tampa? You obviously are unaware of the undeveloped and amazing stone of the area. Come chill, maybe I'll show you a thing or two.
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2004, 4:43 AM
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In reply to: Hey Dirt............ what's so bad about Tampa? You obviously are unaware of the undeveloped and amazing stone of the area. Come chill, maybe I'll show you a thing or two.
That's brilliant!!! Priceless! I love a good sense of humor.
I used to live in st pete man. I hear you guys have a sand mountain down there on the beach. Only problem is, you have to build it before you can climb it ahahahahaah!
YOu shold come up and climb.
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2004, 5:04 AM
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In reply to: A secret huh? I always figured it was magic... In other news, I give it 90% I'll be there on Saturday. Friday is still up in the air. You want me to bring any booze if I come down Friday? I got whiskey and whiskey. Take your pick. If we bring enough, we won't even have to build a fire. Strangely I'm kind of motivated upon hearing of unclimbed roofs at down at Chossville. I'll bring the FA stuff. (Yes, suprisingly I DO have FA stuff, who'd a thunk it?) hahaha.
Travis, well then by all means, bring the wiskey!
saturday is goingto be a good ady according to advance weather reports.
travis, FA in tradclimbing means First Ascent, not Findyer ASS LOL.
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the_alpine
Jan 28, 2004, 6:19 AM
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Dirt - whats humor? St.Pete, eh... now why in the world did you ever leave!? Im in St.Pete right now, but I must say I climb (read travel to climb) a ton! Not havin' it gives me the drive I think..literally and figuratively.
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2004, 6:32 AM
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In reply to: Dirt - whats humor? St.Pete, eh... now why in the world did you ever leave!? Im in St.Pete right now, but I must say I climb (read travel to climb) a ton! Not havin' it gives me the drive I think..literally and figuratively.
HAHAHA
550 miles from you to the nearest rock at MRP in hoover al just outside birmingham... another hour to get to Palisades or HP 40... I know that road, used to ride from clearewater to st pete with no traffic LOL... Eckerd drug college... the ringliing.... old people.... rain every afternoon in the summer.... Dija ever go to chattaways? Probably long gone by now.
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climbhigh2005
Jan 28, 2004, 11:51 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: haha I love you guys! hey is that an indedent proposal? Um, I'm not too sure about myself, but crawler and JCclimbs are the part of the real deal in southern climbing. Seriously Melissa, wanna come to lost wall and help clean routes? It's really fun! And there really are some good learner climbs there. I'll teach you what travis can't-- like how to use things like hexes and tricams adn ball nutx oh my! There's mroe to trad than cams and nuts my dear. Now close your eyes, click your heels together and say three times, "There's no piece like a passive piece.".
I would love to, but I cant this weekend bc I have dance team and am going on college visits! thanks for the invitation tho.. maybe next weekend?
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2004, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: haha I love you guys! hey is that an indedent proposal? Um, I'm not too sure about myself, but crawler and JCclimbs are the part of the real deal in southern climbing. Seriously Melissa, wanna come to lost wall and help clean routes? It's really fun! And there really are some good learner climbs there. I'll teach you what travis can't-- like how to use things like hexes and tricams adn ball nutx oh my! There's mroe to trad than cams and nuts my dear. Now close your eyes, click your heels together and say three times, "There's no piece like a passive piece.". I would love to, but I cant this weekend bc I have dance team and am going on college visits! thanks for the invitation tho.. maybe next weekend?
Depends on the weather, but why not?
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