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atg200
Apr 12, 2002, 7:40 PM
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North Chimney on Castleton Tower III 5.9 - everything from face, fingers, hands, fist, offwidth, and chimney in 4 great pitches on a cool tower. Much better than Kor-Ingalls.
South Face of Petit Grepon III 5.8 - nice long hike in, 8 great *steep* pitches, and one of the wildest summits I've ever been on. All that in the middle of the Rocky Mountain National Park backcountry.
Kor's Flake at Lumpy Ridge III 5.7+++ - 5 wonderful pitches, maybe the best 5.7 in Colorado.
Yellow Ridge at the Gunks 5.7- - a little bit of fatness for flavor on pitch 1, and the wildest 5.6 pitch I've ever been on on pitch 3. way better than High E, Shockleys Ceiling, and as good as Madame Gs.
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camhead
Apr 12, 2002, 7:49 PM
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Well, I've yet to do any multi-pitch. My undeniably FAVORITE climb is Incredible Handcrack (10c) at Indian Creek. I know, it's not unusually difficult or anything, but it still rules! Nothing but perfect, aesthetic handjams, good rests, a beautiful roof... classic.
It epitomizes the FLOW and RHYTHM of good sandstone cracks, even more than Supercrack, in my opinion.
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rednow
Apr 12, 2002, 9:02 PM
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I have Three that tie..
Marshall's Maddness at Seneca Rocks WVA. Its a short line that has great pro. The are several good rests and very interesting exposure.
Jam Crack In Yosemite. Its a perfect hand crack to a great finger crack at the 2nd pitch.
Bishop's Terr Yosemite. CLASSIC. Long perfect crack systems of different style. a MUST do when going to the Valley
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jgorris
Apr 12, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Fantasia. Lover's Leap, CA. Bold, fantastic moves and challenging route finding.
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bldr
Apr 12, 2002, 9:44 PM
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my fav would have to be espresso crack 5.12a at little egypt, mainly because its hard and fairly sustained fingers
some day soon I hope to be man enough to lead it
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bigwalling
Apr 14, 2002, 11:34 PM
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I think Sixty Nine 5.13c R in Squamish is on of the sweetest trad routes. I have not climbed it though. The thing has a #2 stopper protecting the crux. The other routes near it look sweet also they are 5.12b and up. Heres pic of sixty nine.
[ This Message was edited by: bigwalling on 2002-04-14 16:40 ]
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rrrADAM
Apr 21, 2002, 1:36 PM
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#2 Stopper ??? I would have a serious accident in my pants with the prospect of a fall on that.
bigwall... You have "big balls of steel" man.
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beyond_gravity
Apr 21, 2002, 9:33 PM
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Crusin' for buggers. It's a 300m 5.4 that I simul climbed. It's airly with hardly any pro placements...A True scramblers dream
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holygecko
Apr 22, 2002, 2:52 PM
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Thanx for posting this topic you guys are genious this helps me alot I am trying to plan a cool summer of climbing and these places sound cool
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benfieldj
May 8, 2002, 12:18 AM
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I would have to say my favorites are the Great Arch 5.5 at Stone Mountain in North Carolina and Cenotaph Corner 5.10c on Dinas Cromlech in North Wales.
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tim
May 8, 2002, 12:24 AM
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Yeah flave! Great Arch is soooo fun. One of my Vermonter climbing partners of days past puts up sick mixed routes (M6+), runs laps on Fastest Gun at Poke-O (5.10+ R) and he LOVED that route. Talked to him for the first time in two years this winter and sent him a pic of my girlfriend on it, he recognized it instantly.
It's sooooooo easy but sooooo fun.
On the other end of the scale, I liked Airy Interlude at the Needles, Overseer at Josh, and Vertigo at Cannon because they all scared the shit out of me. Soler (at Seneca) has a great finish and is pretty airy too. Basically anything with shit-your-pants exposure gets a huge pop from me :-)
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-07 17:25 ]
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iclimbtoo
May 8, 2002, 12:41 AM
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Bastille Crack and Rewritten on the Red Garden Wall both in Eldo Can. Also the Second Flat Iron outside Boulder.
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rickoldskool
May 8, 2002, 6:55 AM
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WOOOOOO!All this climbin' talk about routes gets my head spinnin! The most beautiful line you'll ever do is "Silk Road" 11b at Calaveras Dome. 12 pitches, straight up! Crack, corners (OHH the corners), face. It's been compared to astroman (really, there IS only one Astroman). Check climbing issue 194 for a refresher. I even made the big time in that one, I'm the weee little belayer SH!T I'm goin tomorrow, I can't take it
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jtcronk
May 9, 2002, 5:22 AM
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Overall, my favorite trad route has been Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday linkup in Yosemite. Sereneity goes at 5.10D. The crux pitch is excellent. There is only one "filler" pitch at 5.6. The rest is all 5.9-5.10D. Great 8 pitch day climb!
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bb_guns
May 13, 2002, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
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My favorites:
Wind River Range, WY: Pingora, Northeast Face
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO: The Scenic Cruise
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bradhill
May 20, 2002, 7:08 PM
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My favorite single pitch thus far is Darkness 'till Dawn on Redgarden Wall in Eldo. Hard 5.9 sustained throughout the entire 60m pitch with a great variety of techniques necessary. Jams from finger to fist, face moves, liebacks, stemming, crimps, the works.
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jhump
May 22, 2002, 4:45 PM
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NE Buttress on Pingora is tops. Also West Pole , Soler, & Madmen Only (Seneca), Rock Wars (Red), Tricouni Nail (Needles SD), Normal Route Direct (Whitehorse), Bastille (Eldo), Celibate Mallard (New)........but I think this list will be updated (replaced) after my first trip to the Valley.
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jbeta
May 23, 2002, 5:19 PM
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My favorite route woulld definately be Lotus Flower Tower in Canada's Cirque of the Unclimbables--2000 feet of beautiful and sustained, but never (or hardly ever) desperate crack climbing in a beautiful and remote setting. It really doesn't get much better.
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tim
May 23, 2002, 6:03 PM
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You've climbed the Lotus Flower Tower? That rules... I have a copy of 50 CC's but since the weather seems to only be 'in' for about 2 weeks a year, and it costs an assload to get up there from where I am (eg. the Inconnu lodge fly-in service seems like the only good bet) I have not really considered it seriously... those pictures make me drool though.
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-23 11:03 ]
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uncle_big_green
May 23, 2002, 7:32 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 261
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My favorite trad climb is Wunch's Dihedral (we did aid the last 12 pitch) at the S. Platte.
Close contenders are Cornflake Crack at Looking Glass, NC and Dopey Duck at Shortoff Mtn., NC.
I tend to agree with the other poster about Darkness 'til Dawn being one of the best pitches at Eldo (but its about 35-40 m).
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evergreen
Jun 2, 2002, 6:43 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
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The Mace in Sedona would be my pick. The setting is so cool and the jump back at the top way fun. Not the best stone but not too bad which keeps the crowds down a bit.
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roughster
Jun 2, 2002, 6:58 AM
Post #47 of 84
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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Open Book 5.9 at Tahquitz
Every pitch is classic, and its like a your climbing a little piece of history every hold you touch
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crackaddict
Jun 2, 2002, 2:22 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
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Incredible Hand Crack 10c
Made my list now.
Woo! Hoo! Onsighted it!
Fun but it has alot of miles on it!
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adampaulgable
Jul 2, 2002, 5:14 AM
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Posts: 22
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My two favorite routes,
Kim in Vedawou SP? Because it has good placements the hole way splits a perfect face and is very photogentic. If it were longer than 40 feet and maybe 140 feet it would be the best route i know of.
Also New Wave to Assemblyline on Devils tower was awesome. New Wave has funky movement and is a lot of fun, but Assemblyline is textbook jam after jam.;Definately reccomended
Thats my to cents
Adam
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rock_diva
Jul 6, 2002, 2:48 AM
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Posts: 320
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For multipitch trad routes, I'd have to say my favorite is the East Buttress of El Cap. Why? It's El Cap. Enough said.
Single pitch... it's gotta be Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek Canyon. At the risk of sounding redundant, I love it because it has INCREDIBLE hand jams... and a great overhanging section.
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