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clam
Jul 7, 2002, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2002
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So far, my favorite single pitch trad route is Bishop's Terrace, Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley. It's a beautiful 5.8 crack climb.
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astone
Jul 7, 2002, 6:36 PM
Post #52 of 84
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Registered: Feb 17, 2002
Posts: 183
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"Eat" at Enchanted Rock, Texas and "The Sensuous Mortician" at Red Rocks, Nevada.
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smellydude
Jul 7, 2002, 8:09 PM
Post #53 of 84
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Registered: Jan 23, 2002
Posts: 102
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For a great line and atmosphere mine is Sunblessed 5.10b on the Backside of the Chief. The 40m second pitch of finger and hands is not to be missed.
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mountainmonkey
Jul 11, 2002, 4:14 PM
Post #54 of 84
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474
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By far the Casual Route on the Diamond. One of the most beautiful and challenging walls I have ever seen. Beautiful crack climbing with nice face moves now and then and incredible exposure. (I should say it is a great climb once you leave Broadway because is is scary and loose before there). Makes the best one day adventure I have ever done.
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camhead
Aug 24, 2002, 2:30 AM
Post #55 of 84
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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I gotta say... now that I am stuck in Dallas and thinking about Southern Utah Wingate sandstone wistfully
Coyne Crack sounds really nice right now.
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arsenalcrater
Aug 24, 2002, 3:23 AM
Post #56 of 84
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 147
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Passport to Insanity...5.12b/c in the Grampians, Australia. This route was sick. A twenty plus foot roof that decended six plus feet in elevation throughout the crux.
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ergophobe
Sep 6, 2002, 1:11 AM
Post #57 of 84
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Registered: Jul 1, 2002
Posts: 150
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I can definitely second some of the choices already mentioned like the Casual Route on the Diamond and Serenity/Sons in Yosemite. Honestly, I can't share the opinion about the Third Pillar of Dana - I just didn't like it that much - but it seems to have a lot of supporters.
Quote:
it's really true about starting at the crack of dawn to get on fairview/regular route.
Actually, I've had pretty good luck waiting until about 2:00 in the afternoon and letting the crowds clear a bit and then starting up. Obviously, you should be comfortable with the climbing for this strategy to work, but the upper pitches are easy and the descent isn't bad. Also, if you can climb mid-grade 5.10, Lucky Streaks is in the same neighborhood and is somewhat less crowded.
Has a single climb east of Colorado been mentioned? I have to mention a couple. For me, the climb that I have to mention is ....
1. Recompense with the Beast Flake variation, a.k.a RecomBeast (5.9) at Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire. The first pitch is a mediocre but respectable 5.7. The second pitch has a 5.9 move to get you onto the awesome Beast Flake, which has steep and easy climbing that gets you to a wonderfully exposed belay ledge. P3: Step around into the prominent corner (5.9). P4: up the amazing dihedral that you see from the parking lot (5.9). From here either walk to the top or P5: climb one of the finger cracks to the top (5.9).
- Perfect rock
- short approach
- gorgeous positions
- obvious natural line up major features
- road to the top (which meant that my wife was able to do this climb while recovering from her ankle b/c I could drive to the top and pick her up).
2. High Exposure (5.6) in the Gunks. The last pitch of High Exposure is one of the best pitches anywhere at any grade. Awesome exposure like the name implies. If you are a little stronger, do the Directissima start.
3. Thin Ice (5.10b) in the Needles. Two pitches, but man do you get a lot of mileage for your two pitches - they're about 47 and 57 meters respectively (10a and 10b). Very steep for a 5.10b granite climb.
4. My favorite route so far in Yosemite: the DNB - Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.10b). This is a real odyssey. After 10 pitches you feel like you've put in a good day, but there are still eight pitches to go, some if which are fairly physical. In my opinion, this route is *way* better than the Steck-Salathe.
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sonso45
Sep 6, 2002, 7:21 PM
Post #58 of 84
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
Posts: 997
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I loved the Steck-Salathe in a day, it was warm but shady in August, more varied than I expected; Days of Future Passed in Cochise Stronghold was long and the view superlative; Coatamundi at Granite Mtn was the most exposed, especially when falling at the lip (rope drag).
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gambler
Sep 7, 2002, 4:46 AM
Post #59 of 84
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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It's gotta be ASTROMAN because of the sustained,varied and beautiful cracks(from the incomprable enduro corner to the changing corners pitch with incredible face climbing to the infamous Harding slot)this climb has it all.
gambler
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bluesky
Sep 7, 2002, 5:30 AM
Post #60 of 84
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 296
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Grand Wall to Roman Chimney's on the Chief, Squamish BC!
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jbone
Sep 7, 2002, 6:55 AM
Post #61 of 84
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
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A Bolted one? He he
No Seriously...
Probably "Comes a Corner 5.10" At Smith Rocks. I got it back in 95, and haven't put a piece in unless it's to get to my Sport anchors on a new bolted line.
I did some Paradise Forks Routes a few years back but I only put pieces in when I got to a standing ledge and wanted to play with the Gear, it seemed quicker to solo them..
Be Safe
JBone
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dune
Sep 12, 2002, 11:24 PM
Post #62 of 84
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 80
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I gotta agree with rrradam, 3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana just outside Tuolumne. It's the best I've done for sure. Hike is 2 1/2 hours only if you know where you're going, but it's SOOO figgin beautiful it doesn't matter, just start early. Situated at 11,500' the view over Mono Lake almost 5000' below is breath taking. You can see like 100 miles into Nevada.
But so what about the view. The last pitch is the best 100+ feet of climbing I've ever seen with my own eyes and touch with my own hands. It's as if half a dozen (5 star) 5.9/V0 granite boulder problems were stacked one after the other. the pitch goes at 5.9+ or 5.10- depending on whom you ask, but ratings can't even begin to descibe it. The technical cruxes are lower on the route and variations range from 10b to thin and sorta runnout 10c (not too bad actually with solid micro-nut placements).
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climbincajun
Sep 12, 2002, 11:39 PM
Post #63 of 84
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Registered: Sep 6, 2002
Posts: 216
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though my trad experience is limited, my favorite to date has been Overhang Bypass on Intersection Rock at J-tree...well, the second pitch anyway. beautiful rock and awesome exposure for the grade!
im sure ill have a new favorite soon...
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jefesuave
Sep 13, 2002, 12:15 AM
Post #64 of 84
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Registered: Sep 2, 2002
Posts: 92
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Granted, Ive only done 5 trad routes in my life, but my favorite would have to be second coming at looking glass...not exactly a beginner route though...heh...oh well
jeff
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bbevans039
Sep 13, 2002, 4:03 PM
Post #65 of 84
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 34
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my favorite trad
CCK ( Cascading Crytsal Kaleidoscope ) Gunks
High E is pretty nice as well
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takeit4granite
Sep 15, 2002, 5:41 PM
Post #66 of 84
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 93
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Northern Lights in Squamish
11 pitches of energy sapping hard cracks, no line ups and stellar views!
This line is way better than Astro Man and gets no Props!
You want good hard Trad GET ON IT!!
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bullit
Sep 15, 2002, 7:08 PM
Post #67 of 84
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 22
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RRADAM You said..."3rd Pillar Of Dana Mountain ...it's better than the Regular Route on Fairview Dome and South Crack up DAFF Dome combined." (Both in 50 CC's)
Did you mean to say "West Crack on Daff Dome"? Or South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome?
I've done West Crack and it is by far my favorite trad climb to date. Haven't done the regular route on Fairview though. Next year!!!! West crack is great. Slanting crack to a cool roof to great fingers! Well worth it!
Scott
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dune
Sep 16, 2002, 7:37 PM
Post #68 of 84
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 80
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Yeah Scott I mean Bullit. that's what he meant alright. One must understand that Roper's book The 50 Classics isn't titled The 50 best. Reg Rt on FD and WC on DAFF although excellent are not in the same ball park as 3rd Pillar. 3rd Pillar is overshadowed in difficulty and mangnitude of routes like Astroman and Levitation 29 but it's in thier league as far as quality and apeal.
A must-do for any serious 5.10 leader if you find yourself up in Tuolumne. Just as FD and WC are for 5.9 enthusiasts. Those routes are crowded though
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winkwinklambonini
Sep 17, 2002, 2:35 AM
Post #69 of 84
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 1579
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Magnolia Thunderpussy
Granite Mountain, AZ
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gambler
Sep 19, 2002, 2:23 AM
Post #70 of 84
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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Yeah...takeitforgranite Northern Lites is awesome as well as University wall,Freeway(go for the Big Slick,Deisel Overhang and Expresslane variations)and Grand Wall(with the Left Side and Roman Chimneys)...Squamish in general is one of my favorite areas.
gambler
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horatio_felacio
Sep 20, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #71 of 84
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Registered: Sep 20, 2002
Posts: 12
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i just started climbing a month ago, but my favorite one-pitch trad route is definitely jennifers world at sunset in chattanooga.
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uncle_big_green
Sep 25, 2002, 3:05 AM
Post #72 of 84
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 261
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quit trolling HF.
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horatio_felacio
Sep 25, 2002, 4:21 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2002
Posts: 12
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what? at least half of that was true.
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uncle_big_green
Sep 27, 2002, 4:38 AM
Post #74 of 84
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 261
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nothing more than half, either. It was even funny (at least to those familiar with JW).
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rollingstone
Oct 4, 2002, 12:34 AM
Post #75 of 84
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Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 273
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Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, WA. Great route, classic climbing, done by Fred Beckey, of course. Perhaps the finest individual pitch I have ever had the pleasure to lead is the Pancake Flake, on the Nose. A great climb along the Columbia River is Blood, Sweat, and Smears (5.10c) at Beacon Rock.
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