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mistymountainhop
Apr 3, 2004, 2:03 AM
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I see so many tiny trad placements on the market, I was thinking how i need to get some tiny pieces, but not for aid. I had to decide against getting some trango brassies just because even if i did place them i would be scared sh-tless to fall on them. As of right now the smallest thing i have fallen on has been a #1 ABC Huevo, theyre def. nice is my book, but the fall was only a couple feet. My friend was telling me how he fell on an Rp that ripped and was then nowhere to be found, like it either unclipped itself or just broke. the biner was still on the rope with no piece attached.
whats the longest yuou have fallen on a small piece that hasnt ripped?
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robmcc
Apr 3, 2004, 2:06 AM
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I'm not going to win this one, but what the heck.
#1 camalot, 10 or so, 5 times in rapid succession.
#9 stopper, crappy placement, 35'
Not small pro, but the smallest I've fallen on. :P
Rob
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danskiz
Apr 3, 2004, 2:07 AM
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15 feet onto a 6AN Metolius Astro nut. If your looking for brassies, I would check out the astro nuts, and definately HB offset brassies.
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rrrADAM
Apr 3, 2004, 2:07 AM
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Me a #4 BD Stopper, from 8 feet above it (almost 20' with slack and stretch). Seen Paul (camhead) fall on a #3 out at Little Cottonwood Canyon. Took a 40 footer on a Yellow Alien, but almost everyone has a Yellow Alien story. :lol:
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robmcc
Apr 3, 2004, 2:09 AM
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In reply to: Took a 40 footer on a Yellow Alien, but almost everyone has a Yellow Alien story. :lol:
I don't even have a yellow alien. Hmm, maybe when the tax refund comes...
Rob
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rrrADAM
Apr 3, 2004, 2:14 AM
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Note-I have never pulled a top piece, other than one cam I knew was sh!t and immediately backed it up with a stopper below it, was pumped and pussed out and yelled take. Cam pulled, but stopper held. Like I said, I knew the cam was poopoo.
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g
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Apr 3, 2004, 2:17 AM
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I too have fallin on a yellow alien, as I was trying to clip another yellow alien. It was only a little 12-15 footer though. After that, I went back up and repeated the same fall.
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coylec
Apr 3, 2004, 2:20 AM
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Took a short fall on a metolius 00. less than 5 feet.
coylec
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curt
Apr 3, 2004, 2:22 AM
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I fell 20 feet onto a #2 RP in Yosemite and it held.
Curt
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slavetogravity
Apr 3, 2004, 2:23 AM
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Number 2 trango brassie, the second smallest. Couldn’t believe it held. Scared the krap out of me, and I screamed like a banshee as I feel.
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slobmonster
Apr 3, 2004, 2:30 AM
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#2 Wild Country Rock, 35 feet
13 cm ice screw, 40 feet
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tim
Apr 3, 2004, 2:33 AM
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#3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall
#3 Zero, 9' (free) lead fall
red Lowe ball, 5', hook popped
I'm a bit of a wuss, as anyone who climbs with me can tell you, but there's somewhat of a reason for that. I started out full of piss and vinegar, a while back... then I broke some parts and reconsidered :-)
As far as micronuts, no contest, go for HB offsets first, BD Swedges second. I've taken a 12' swinging fall onto a #4 offset on lead, too. They hold just fine, provided you place them well, in good rock.
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vegastradguy
Apr 3, 2004, 2:47 AM
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took a static daisy fall onto my blue alien. prolly only 6' or so...adj. daisy was at full length.
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fuzzybrandon
Apr 3, 2004, 3:04 AM
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About a 30 footer onto a #2 HB brassy, a couple pieces ripped above it, I clobbered my belayer on the way past, that likely absorbed a good deal of force.
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bellatoris
Apr 3, 2004, 3:32 AM
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00 metolius grey tcu, held the fall.....maybe a 10 footer. took a 20' on a yellow metolius and it held nice...but that was in the valley.
last week took a 25' onto a purple bd camalot, slightly overcammed (on purpose) and it did not budge. it was on the last move on the last pitch of cloud tower. the stone was a perfect but softer sandstone. the point is thin gear in soft stone is bold...caveat climber! big gear in a valley splitter is akin to 1/2 bolt.
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brianthew
Apr 3, 2004, 3:33 AM
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30' onto a #0.5 Clog cam (orange). Bomber placement in quartzite, though.
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grover
Apr 3, 2004, 3:44 AM
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20 footer on a #4 rp, placed sideways in good ole canadian limestone.
oh and it was my ONLY piece, with 20 feet of rope out. partner kicked out half the anchor holding the fall.
started smoking [tobbaco] again, minutes after that one.
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incogneato
Apr 3, 2004, 4:35 AM
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i took countless whippers on my 00 friend last season, fallen on my #1 wild country stopper, lots on RPs, and took a 40 footer onto a yellow metolius on smith rock's basalt.
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mesomorf
Apr 3, 2004, 4:37 AM
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25 feet onto a #1 Chouinard stopper.
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 3, 2004, 5:11 AM
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I've never fallen trad climbing, but I do own some trango brassies and they feel quite solid despite their size... especially the higher numbers. Can't beat the price either!
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fredo
Apr 3, 2004, 5:20 AM
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Smallest Pro/Shortest fall (dumb luck) #2 WC Rock ~5-6 feet..chicken head popped off in my hand. Longest Fall ~15-18 feet #4 or #5 (can't remember which) Chiounard stopper, of course the juniper tree I went through absorbed some of the fall :lol: Don't have a Yellow Alien story yet, but I plan on using it a bunch tomorrow so mayyyyyybeee
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gunked
Apr 3, 2004, 5:44 AM
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short fall (4 or 5 feet) onto #3 HB brassie behind a loose flake. :shock: Good thing it held. The fall potential was HUGE (multiple ledge 40+ feet :angel: ) if it blew. I don't take stupid chances like that anymore! Well.....very rarely!!! :?
Fallen on the purple metolius and the blue alien both with 10 to 15 footers.
-Jason :D
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grog
Apr 3, 2004, 8:01 AM
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I took fell 4 feet onto a tied off knifeblade (with 10 ft of rope out) after i pulled a block off with a hook which cut the rope and almost decappitated my belayer on a "C2"; Dont trust ratings. :D
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hugepedro
Apr 3, 2004, 9:04 AM
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When are you kids gonna learn. It's not the size of the piece, but the quality of the placement that matters.
Having said that, and having lived in Texas, I'll also say: bigger is always better.
1000 feet. Fall was eventually arrested with a Stubai ice axe.
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reno
Apr 3, 2004, 3:45 PM
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25 feet above a 0.5 WC Friend... it held.
Also went 16 feet onto a #7 BD Stopper.
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adeptus
Apr 3, 2004, 4:46 PM
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3 meters on a micro Wallnut #3/4.
2 meters on a BD Rurp.
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andypro
Apr 3, 2004, 4:47 PM
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Smallest was a 10 footer or so onto a number 1 ballnut. Next piece below that was a #4 smiley that was out to get me. Pucker factor was high..it was my first ballnut fall...I trust them with my life regularly now. Second smallest piece was like a 15-20 footer onto a number 2 ballnut. I love those things :D
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asandh
Apr 3, 2004, 4:50 PM
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:)
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fixedpin
Apr 3, 2004, 5:02 PM
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A 1/4 inch bolt.
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rhu
Apr 3, 2004, 5:52 PM
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Short (5~6 ft) on a #4 BD Stopper.
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rokshoxbkr19
Apr 3, 2004, 6:53 PM
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16 footer onto a #2 micronut that was placed extremely shallow in soft rotten sand stone. It was my only piece and I was 60 ft of the deck, YIKES, thank you Temple OF Sinawava :-)
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lazide
Apr 3, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Aid - 10 ft daisy chain fall onto a leaper pointed bat hook in a bat hook hole. Yay granite!
Free climbing - only about 15' onto a #6 stopper in quartzite (help no prob)
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bradnicholson
Apr 3, 2004, 8:41 PM
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.75 hugh banner tri-cam. ten feet. held like a champ....
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pinktricam
Apr 3, 2004, 9:45 PM
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It was my first lead fall. I was on the crux (the bulge) of Second Coming at Looking Glass. A 0 Metolius TCU caught my fall, a short 10 footer. When I climbed back up to the pro, I saw that it'd pulled about and inch out of the vertical crack from where I'd set it leaving only two of the lobes just locked into the granite and the top lobe exposed. I didn't think it'd hold another fall as I went for the crux again, so I backed it up with 2 bomber placements, a pink tricam and a small stopper in a horizontal crack just below and to the right of my top piece. I really should've backed it up like that with the 2 additional pcs. the first time, real n00b mistake, but anyway, I took 2 more falls (a 12' and a 15') on that TCU before spraining an ankle and giving it up for the day and it held both additional falls with just the 2 lobes in at the edge of the crack :!:
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vanny37
Apr 3, 2004, 9:49 PM
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Second Coming, awesome climb... I've heard that that crux produces a lot of hurt people because of the slab way below it. You are lucky! Sweet climb though.
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sbclimber
Apr 3, 2004, 9:57 PM
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15-20 feet onto a #3 stopper, no worries
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 4, 2004, 12:21 AM
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15-20? ft on a #2 Chiounard stainless steel silver soddered micro. the #3 was a crappy placement and sheared out sending me upside down. I got my leg caught on the rope there. the #2 held. No helmet and stopped about 2 feet off the deck/ P38 the Gunks 1986-87?
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thegodfather
Apr 4, 2004, 2:38 AM
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took a 15- footer onto a purple TCU on quartzite at devils lake.
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drrock
Apr 4, 2004, 2:46 AM
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My left ring finger held a 1 foot fall unfortunately. "POP" went my pulley. Would have been better to just fall. :evil:
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tedc
Apr 5, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Way too many people here "braging" about how a small piece in bad rock HELD and saved thier ass. If you knew it was sh!t then either back it up or back off. Sometimes the only way to not fall is to not climb a route that is over your head.
These are stories of luck, and no one is lucky all the time.
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ykwak
Apr 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
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5 meters on a 3 machine nuts that I slung off with some 2400lb cord.
I stacked about three 1/2 inch machine nuts, and slung em.
I may be crazy and cheap, BUT HEY! IT"S MY LIFE!!! hehe
P.S. I dont really recommend home made gear unless your just absolutly poor, or just dumb like me.
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holmeslovesguinness
Apr 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
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Took a short fall (say 8') on a #3 or #4 BD stopper, another short fall on the smallest (purple) DMM cam.
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climboard
Apr 5, 2004, 3:28 PM
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I took three 20 footers on a #3 RP with no worries. The crack was tailor-made for the piece.
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ben87
Apr 5, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: #3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall
How does a 35' fall happen on aid? does that mean your other pieces failed first?
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hardcore
Apr 5, 2004, 4:41 PM
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Not the smallest in my rack, but it's was a good fall and scared the shite out of me. Took a ugly 30 footer at cathedral on the second pitch whiped past my belayer and stopped very quickly on a #4 smiley...Took me close to an hour to get that bad boy out, i wear it around my neck now(good luck charm)....Hell of a weekend that was.....
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b_fost
Apr 5, 2004, 5:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: #3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall How does a 35' fall happen on aid? does that mean your other pieces failed first?
maybe he used hooks after the nut.... no probably not. i have no clue what i'm talking about when it comes to aid.
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vegastradguy
Apr 5, 2004, 5:49 PM
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could have been hooks. also could have been backcleaning. when i climbed Moonlight, i could have easily taken a 35' or even a 60' at a couple of points on that route. (thankfully, i didnt!)
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ben87
Apr 5, 2004, 7:10 PM
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yeah -- right after I asked this question, I thought about backcleaning.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 5, 2004, 7:46 PM
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Usualy when i am back cleaning I do it over a decent piece like say #7 bd or #5 rock if i am going to go a ways on it. Who knows? prolonged aid climbing does strange things to your mind. last summer while putting up a new rt. I cleaned out a nice gold camalot placement. the gold camalot was on the deck and I seriously was considering lowering dow a loop of rope to haule it up when it finaly dawned on me that if the Beak I was hanging on popped out I would deck from 50 ft. if I went through with that plan. I sucked it up and cranked a few free moves, frigged in a #3 chiounard micro (17 years old at least) took a hang and hand drilled a bolt. Seconds after I had clipped and tightened down the bolt the micro popped and I tested the bolt. It would certainly been a 55 foot groundfall if that micro had popped any sooner. It was all wourth it though as the result was a nice 10c free climb 8) Sometimes you get so focused on the micro things you are doing aid climbing that you can forget agout the big picture :shock:
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brundige
Apr 5, 2004, 11:08 PM
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never had a piece of pro pull however, took a 40 footer at the gym when leading . the draw and the ground anchor broke at the same time.really sucked . decided to screw gym and sport and go straight to trad.
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the_climber
Apr 6, 2004, 12:21 AM
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Took a 15' on a #5 smiley about 5years ago. Not a big fall, but it was the first fall I'd ever taken on trad (I think I was to scared even to yell). Since the there have been many more... all on bigger gear though.
After trying for 1/2 an hour I desided the nut was unretrievable and chocked it up as a tribute to a good placement in good rock.
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 6, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Grant my climbing partner was working an Oz grade 27 called The Lords Prayer at Frog Buttress. He took numerous falls onto the black Alien and also on to the smallest ballnut. He was falling perhaps 3 or 4 feet onto these types of pieces. I`ve got some of the falls on video somewhere and a few pics of the climb too.
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summerprophet
Apr 13, 2004, 3:16 AM
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I fell 15 ft onto a #1 smileys nut. Then repeated the same move twice more...... F**cking amazing. I even managed to get the gnarled little piece out.
NOTE: Results are DEFINATLY not typical.
J.
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antepater
Apr 15, 2004, 1:07 PM
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#4 smiley wedge on a 5 meter fall. I am a 90 kg fat ass too. Needless to say they piece was unrecoverable, by me at least. At least it held and I must say the placemnet was brilliant, text book perfect. Now if I could only climb text book perfect things would be right.
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gajeff420
Apr 15, 2004, 1:50 PM
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#3 Wild Country Rock. 15 feet. A rock fell from above and I fell. Didn't think I would fall as the climb was really easy. After I got done sh*tting myself I made sure I backed it up.
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texplorer
Apr 18, 2004, 12:25 AM
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Red Loweball 2 weeks ago on Moses, Primrose Dihedrals.
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wanlessrm
Apr 18, 2004, 12:37 AM
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1 bd cam! It sure hurt my as* though. Wish I would have landed on something smaller! :lol:
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camhead
Apr 18, 2004, 2:29 AM
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uhhh... I think it was the #3 stopper that rradam mentioned at the beginning of the thread.
it sure as hell was NOT that blue metolius TCU last week at Enchanted Rock. that thing popped right out. ouch.
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slhappy
Apr 18, 2004, 2:45 AM
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DORF caught me too...he is smaller in person.
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innominato
Apr 18, 2004, 4:33 AM
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Two #2 RPs in Eldorado Canyon sandstone.
I just caught my buddy about a month ago when he lobbed onto a Metolius Grey--#00--in Eldo, which held about a 10-footer.
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fredo
Apr 18, 2004, 1:55 PM
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4/7/04-----Blue Metolius (#1) in a horizontal at Kootenai Canyon. My feet were just above the cam so it was only about a 6-8 footer.
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karlbaba
Apr 19, 2004, 6:22 AM
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30 footer onto a rurp. (Aid Climbing). It was on the Shield headwall groove pitch and I backcleaned all the fixed junk that wouldn't hold a fall since I didn't want to have to replace it if it ripped. Pulled a copperhead that I had already taken a few steps up on, and went for a ride. I was lucky enough since folks had in the past zippered the whole pitch before.
Free climbing, look a 6 foot fall onto a fixed knifeblade that you could move over an inch, almost two inches, just by pulling with your pinky.
It was a slab fall though and somehow the end of the blade was bent and hooked in the crack so it wouldn't come all the way out.
Peace
karl
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tedc
Apr 19, 2004, 3:25 PM
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Not sure if it was the smallest but the most recent. 12' FF 0.2 (I't was probably quite a bit higher FF due to bad rope drag; belayer barely felt the fall); onto the #3 ball-nut in sandstone. I spent almost 5 min. getting that thing placed "perfectly" and was pretty confident that it would hold. The fall was hard enough to bend the edge of the nut but it came out with a few whacks of the #13 Stopper and a nut tool.
I chose the ball-nut over a black alien specifacally because I expected a good likelyhood of a fall and liked the idea of falling on the ball-nut better.
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dirtineye
Apr 19, 2004, 5:26 PM
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I've taken short lead falls on the green Zero friend a lot. It's an aid only piece but I don't weigh too much. I did a test fall a few years ago of about 6 feet on some tiny silicon bronze nut in a very dubious placement, as in about half out of the rock, it held.
Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear! Come back when you have fallen on the number one. I have not doubt though that if set well the number one will hold fine too.
I just used a number three ballnut to protect a roof move on an FA, it set about as well as one can ever set, but I didn't fall on it, DOH! I love my ballnuts.
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tedc
Apr 20, 2004, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear!...
Uhhhh. It's smaller than a black Alien (couldn't wiggle that f#$&er in there) and about the same as your "aid only" green Zero.
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gipsy
Apr 20, 2004, 4:27 PM
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... and I suppose that being graceful enough to trip over the entire rack dosen't count? In that case, I'd have to say a grey (#00) metolius with marginal placement; that one was a 15 footer, but it held and that's what matters!
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brianinslc
Apr 20, 2004, 4:54 PM
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Daisy chain fall onto a 00 Metolius TCU that was only on 2 cams, in a roll over, in Zion sandstone...
Eeeek.
Longest fall I've seen on the smallest gear was a 30 footer onto a #2 HB brassie. Can't believe it held...and...was the only piece between heaven and earth...
Brian in SLC
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dirtineye
Apr 20, 2004, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear!... Uhhhh. It's smaller than a black Alien (couldn't wiggle that f#$&er in there) and about the same as your "aid only" green Zero.
No way, the #3 ballnut is much smaller than the green zero, but it is rated at 8 kN. #3 ballnuts are totally safe bomber pro when set correctly in hard rock.
Tell you what though, if you will supply the #1 ballnut, I'll go fall on one and see what happens!
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philbox
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Apr 20, 2004, 8:55 PM
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The smallest ballnut is almost as good as the larger sizes. These pieces are the bomb.
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tedc
Apr 20, 2004, 9:36 PM
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The ability of a "small" piece to hold a fall rarely has anything to do with it's rated strength. I think it impossible to to place a #1 ball-nut so that it will hold 8KN in even the best Wingate sandstone. Assuming that you are prificient in gear placement; the strength of small placement is all about rock strength and contact surface area. And the contact surface area is where the ball-nuts shine.
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dirtineye
Apr 21, 2004, 12:02 AM
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In reply to: The ability of a "small" piece to hold a fall rarely has anything to do with it's rated strength. I think it impossible to to place a #1 ball-nut so that it will hold 8KN in even the best Wingate sandstone. Assuming that you are prificient in gear placement; the strength of small placement is all about rock strength and contact surface area. And the contact surface area is where the ball-nuts shine.
Your wingate choss can't compare to good southern sandstone. Some of the sandstone here is as hard or harder than granite. Come visit and see for yourself! Bring your ballnutz too, there's a lot of uses for em here.
I can absolutely point out one spot where a number one would probably hold anything you can put on it, short of destroying it. Wanna try it?
As for what makes a good placement, Yeah that's correct, you're preaching to the choir.
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speedy
Apr 21, 2004, 12:25 AM
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Took a 30 foot fall onto a beak while aid soloing. I wasn't expecting it to hold, but it did.
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speedy
Apr 21, 2004, 12:26 AM
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Took a 30 foot fall onto a beak while aid soloing. I wasn't expecting it to hold, but it did.
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tedc
Apr 21, 2004, 3:17 PM
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In reply to: Wanna try it?...
OH, maybe someday. Sounds dreamy, but I am a westerner at heart. Choss and all.
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dirtineye
Apr 21, 2004, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Wanna try it?... OH, maybe someday. Sounds dreamy, but I am a westerner at heart. Choss and all.
Just think, sandstone that will hold anything you can put in it. SHADE TREES at the crag, LOL.
Seriously, you can call it the southern ballnut tour. Be warned though that once you visit the area you may not want to leave.
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dirtineye
Apr 26, 2004, 6:08 PM
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HEy tedc,
LOL, I looked at the green ero adn the number 4 ballnut yersterday, and damnital if you are not right about em being the same when the ball nut is fully retracted and the green zero is as over cammed as you can get it.
But I still would rather have the ball nut IF it is a choice between the two where both would fit the placement and stay.
I have found placements where the green zero out performed the ballmut though-- the ballnut would not stay in while hte gren zero would.
I do think that when the Zero is fully over cammed and the balllnyt is fully retracted, the Zero ahs a better chance to stay in there.
Don'tt know what I was thinking when I said the Green zero was not as small as the #3 ballnut. OOPS, sorry about that chief.
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tedc
Apr 26, 2004, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: HEy tedc, ... I have found placements where the green zero out performed the ballmut though-- the ballnut would not stay in while hte gren zero would. I do think that when the Zero is fully over cammed and the ballnyt is fully retracted, the Zero ahs a better chance to stay in there.
Ballnuts kinda stink if the carck is too parallell (i.e.) no constrictions. In that case the cam may by the only "clean" option.
I think that fully cammed is about the only way I'd trust that little green zero.
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dirtineye
Apr 26, 2004, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: Ballnuts kinda stink if the carck is too parallell (i.e.) no constrictions. In that case the cam may by the only "clean" option. I think that fully cammed is about the only way I'd trust that little green zero.
Mee too, on both. Luckily if a crack is too smooth and parallel for a ball nut, you can usually tell cause the ball nut will slide right back out when you try to set it hahaha.
I have a habit of inspecting the copper side of the ball when removing em to see just how well it bit in, do you do that?
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