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adeptus
Apr 3, 2004, 4:46 PM
Post #26 of 80
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
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3 meters on a micro Wallnut #3/4.
2 meters on a BD Rurp.
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andypro
Apr 3, 2004, 4:47 PM
Post #27 of 80
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Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077
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Smallest was a 10 footer or so onto a number 1 ballnut. Next piece below that was a #4 smiley that was out to get me. Pucker factor was high..it was my first ballnut fall...I trust them with my life regularly now. Second smallest piece was like a 15-20 footer onto a number 2 ballnut. I love those things :D
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asandh
Apr 3, 2004, 4:50 PM
Post #28 of 80
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
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:)
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fixedpin
Apr 3, 2004, 5:02 PM
Post #29 of 80
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 66
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A 1/4 inch bolt.
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rhu
Apr 3, 2004, 5:52 PM
Post #30 of 80
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 242
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Short (5~6 ft) on a #4 BD Stopper.
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rokshoxbkr19
Apr 3, 2004, 6:53 PM
Post #31 of 80
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 767
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16 footer onto a #2 micronut that was placed extremely shallow in soft rotten sand stone. It was my only piece and I was 60 ft of the deck, YIKES, thank you Temple OF Sinawava :-)
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lazide
Apr 3, 2004, 8:28 PM
Post #32 of 80
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 225
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Aid - 10 ft daisy chain fall onto a leaper pointed bat hook in a bat hook hole. Yay granite!
Free climbing - only about 15' onto a #6 stopper in quartzite (help no prob)
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bradnicholson
Apr 3, 2004, 8:41 PM
Post #33 of 80
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Registered: Feb 14, 2004
Posts: 23
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.75 hugh banner tri-cam. ten feet. held like a champ....
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pinktricam
Apr 3, 2004, 9:45 PM
Post #34 of 80
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 7947
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It was my first lead fall. I was on the crux (the bulge) of Second Coming at Looking Glass. A 0 Metolius TCU caught my fall, a short 10 footer. When I climbed back up to the pro, I saw that it'd pulled about and inch out of the vertical crack from where I'd set it leaving only two of the lobes just locked into the granite and the top lobe exposed. I didn't think it'd hold another fall as I went for the crux again, so I backed it up with 2 bomber placements, a pink tricam and a small stopper in a horizontal crack just below and to the right of my top piece. I really should've backed it up like that with the 2 additional pcs. the first time, real n00b mistake, but anyway, I took 2 more falls (a 12' and a 15') on that TCU before spraining an ankle and giving it up for the day and it held both additional falls with just the 2 lobes in at the edge of the crack :!:
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vanny37
Apr 3, 2004, 9:49 PM
Post #35 of 80
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Registered: Aug 1, 2002
Posts: 83
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Second Coming, awesome climb... I've heard that that crux produces a lot of hurt people because of the slab way below it. You are lucky! Sweet climb though.
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sbclimber
Apr 3, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #36 of 80
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
Posts: 444
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15-20 feet onto a #3 stopper, no worries
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 4, 2004, 12:21 AM
Post #37 of 80
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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15-20? ft on a #2 Chiounard stainless steel silver soddered micro. the #3 was a crappy placement and sheared out sending me upside down. I got my leg caught on the rope there. the #2 held. No helmet and stopped about 2 feet off the deck/ P38 the Gunks 1986-87?
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thegodfather
Apr 4, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #38 of 80
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 200
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took a 15- footer onto a purple TCU on quartzite at devils lake.
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drrock
Apr 4, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #39 of 80
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Registered: Oct 18, 2003
Posts: 610
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My left ring finger held a 1 foot fall unfortunately. "POP" went my pulley. Would have been better to just fall. :evil:
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tedc
Apr 5, 2004, 2:46 PM
Post #40 of 80
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756
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Way too many people here "braging" about how a small piece in bad rock HELD and saved thier ass. If you knew it was sh!t then either back it up or back off. Sometimes the only way to not fall is to not climb a route that is over your head.
These are stories of luck, and no one is lucky all the time.
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ykwak
Apr 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
Post #41 of 80
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 13
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5 meters on a 3 machine nuts that I slung off with some 2400lb cord.
I stacked about three 1/2 inch machine nuts, and slung em.
I may be crazy and cheap, BUT HEY! IT"S MY LIFE!!! hehe
P.S. I dont really recommend home made gear unless your just absolutly poor, or just dumb like me.
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holmeslovesguinness
Apr 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
Post #42 of 80
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
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Took a short fall (say 8') on a #3 or #4 BD stopper, another short fall on the smallest (purple) DMM cam.
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climboard
Apr 5, 2004, 3:28 PM
Post #43 of 80
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
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I took three 20 footers on a #3 RP with no worries. The crack was tailor-made for the piece.
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ben87
Apr 5, 2004, 4:05 PM
Post #44 of 80
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
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In reply to: #3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall
How does a 35' fall happen on aid? does that mean your other pieces failed first?
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hardcore
Apr 5, 2004, 4:41 PM
Post #45 of 80
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 34
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Not the smallest in my rack, but it's was a good fall and scared the shite out of me. Took a ugly 30 footer at cathedral on the second pitch whiped past my belayer and stopped very quickly on a #4 smiley...Took me close to an hour to get that bad boy out, i wear it around my neck now(good luck charm)....Hell of a weekend that was.....
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b_fost
Apr 5, 2004, 5:34 PM
Post #46 of 80
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 1268
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In reply to: In reply to: #3 BD steel nut, 35' aid fall How does a 35' fall happen on aid? does that mean your other pieces failed first?
maybe he used hooks after the nut.... no probably not. i have no clue what i'm talking about when it comes to aid.
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vegastradguy
Apr 5, 2004, 5:49 PM
Post #47 of 80
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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could have been hooks. also could have been backcleaning. when i climbed Moonlight, i could have easily taken a 35' or even a 60' at a couple of points on that route. (thankfully, i didnt!)
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ben87
Apr 5, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #48 of 80
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
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yeah -- right after I asked this question, I thought about backcleaning.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 5, 2004, 7:46 PM
Post #49 of 80
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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Usualy when i am back cleaning I do it over a decent piece like say #7 bd or #5 rock if i am going to go a ways on it. Who knows? prolonged aid climbing does strange things to your mind. last summer while putting up a new rt. I cleaned out a nice gold camalot placement. the gold camalot was on the deck and I seriously was considering lowering dow a loop of rope to haule it up when it finaly dawned on me that if the Beak I was hanging on popped out I would deck from 50 ft. if I went through with that plan. I sucked it up and cranked a few free moves, frigged in a #3 chiounard micro (17 years old at least) took a hang and hand drilled a bolt. Seconds after I had clipped and tightened down the bolt the micro popped and I tested the bolt. It would certainly been a 55 foot groundfall if that micro had popped any sooner. It was all wourth it though as the result was a nice 10c free climb 8) Sometimes you get so focused on the micro things you are doing aid climbing that you can forget agout the big picture :shock:
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brundige
Apr 5, 2004, 11:08 PM
Post #50 of 80
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
Posts: 305
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never had a piece of pro pull however, took a 40 footer at the gym when leading . the draw and the ground anchor broke at the same time.really sucked . decided to screw gym and sport and go straight to trad.
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