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the_climber
Apr 6, 2004, 12:21 AM
Post #51 of 80
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Took a 15' on a #5 smiley about 5years ago. Not a big fall, but it was the first fall I'd ever taken on trad (I think I was to scared even to yell). Since the there have been many more... all on bigger gear though.
After trying for 1/2 an hour I desided the nut was unretrievable and chocked it up as a tribute to a good placement in good rock.
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 6, 2004, 12:31 AM
Post #52 of 80
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Grant my climbing partner was working an Oz grade 27 called The Lords Prayer at Frog Buttress. He took numerous falls onto the black Alien and also on to the smallest ballnut. He was falling perhaps 3 or 4 feet onto these types of pieces. I`ve got some of the falls on video somewhere and a few pics of the climb too.
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summerprophet
Apr 13, 2004, 3:16 AM
Post #53 of 80
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I fell 15 ft onto a #1 smileys nut. Then repeated the same move twice more...... F**cking amazing. I even managed to get the gnarled little piece out.
NOTE: Results are DEFINATLY not typical.
J.
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antepater
Apr 15, 2004, 1:07 PM
Post #54 of 80
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#4 smiley wedge on a 5 meter fall. I am a 90 kg fat ass too. Needless to say they piece was unrecoverable, by me at least. At least it held and I must say the placemnet was brilliant, text book perfect. Now if I could only climb text book perfect things would be right.
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gajeff420
Apr 15, 2004, 1:50 PM
Post #56 of 80
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#3 Wild Country Rock. 15 feet. A rock fell from above and I fell. Didn't think I would fall as the climb was really easy. After I got done sh*tting myself I made sure I backed it up.
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texplorer
Apr 18, 2004, 12:25 AM
Post #57 of 80
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Red Loweball 2 weeks ago on Moses, Primrose Dihedrals.
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wanlessrm
Apr 18, 2004, 12:37 AM
Post #58 of 80
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1 bd cam! It sure hurt my as* though. Wish I would have landed on something smaller! :lol:
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camhead
Apr 18, 2004, 2:29 AM
Post #59 of 80
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uhhh... I think it was the #3 stopper that rradam mentioned at the beginning of the thread.
it sure as hell was NOT that blue metolius TCU last week at Enchanted Rock. that thing popped right out. ouch.
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slhappy
Apr 18, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #60 of 80
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DORF caught me too...he is smaller in person.
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innominato
Apr 18, 2004, 4:33 AM
Post #61 of 80
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Two #2 RPs in Eldorado Canyon sandstone.
I just caught my buddy about a month ago when he lobbed onto a Metolius Grey--#00--in Eldo, which held about a 10-footer.
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fredo
Apr 18, 2004, 1:55 PM
Post #62 of 80
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4/7/04-----Blue Metolius (#1) in a horizontal at Kootenai Canyon. My feet were just above the cam so it was only about a 6-8 footer.
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karlbaba
Apr 19, 2004, 6:22 AM
Post #63 of 80
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30 footer onto a rurp. (Aid Climbing). It was on the Shield headwall groove pitch and I backcleaned all the fixed junk that wouldn't hold a fall since I didn't want to have to replace it if it ripped. Pulled a copperhead that I had already taken a few steps up on, and went for a ride. I was lucky enough since folks had in the past zippered the whole pitch before.
Free climbing, look a 6 foot fall onto a fixed knifeblade that you could move over an inch, almost two inches, just by pulling with your pinky.
It was a slab fall though and somehow the end of the blade was bent and hooked in the crack so it wouldn't come all the way out.
Peace
karl
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tedc
Apr 19, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #64 of 80
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Not sure if it was the smallest but the most recent. 12' FF 0.2 (I't was probably quite a bit higher FF due to bad rope drag; belayer barely felt the fall); onto the #3 ball-nut in sandstone. I spent almost 5 min. getting that thing placed "perfectly" and was pretty confident that it would hold. The fall was hard enough to bend the edge of the nut but it came out with a few whacks of the #13 Stopper and a nut tool.
I chose the ball-nut over a black alien specifacally because I expected a good likelyhood of a fall and liked the idea of falling on the ball-nut better.
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dirtineye
Apr 19, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #65 of 80
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I've taken short lead falls on the green Zero friend a lot. It's an aid only piece but I don't weigh too much. I did a test fall a few years ago of about 6 feet on some tiny silicon bronze nut in a very dubious placement, as in about half out of the rock, it held.
Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear! Come back when you have fallen on the number one. I have not doubt though that if set well the number one will hold fine too.
I just used a number three ballnut to protect a roof move on an FA, it set about as well as one can ever set, but I didn't fall on it, DOH! I love my ballnuts.
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tedc
Apr 20, 2004, 3:53 PM
Post #66 of 80
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In reply to: Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear!...
Uhhhh. It's smaller than a black Alien (couldn't wiggle that f#$&er in there) and about the same as your "aid only" green Zero.
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gipsy
Apr 20, 2004, 4:27 PM
Post #67 of 80
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... and I suppose that being graceful enough to trip over the entire rack dosen't count? In that case, I'd have to say a grey (#00) metolius with marginal placement; that one was a 15 footer, but it held and that's what matters!
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brianinslc
Apr 20, 2004, 4:54 PM
Post #68 of 80
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Daisy chain fall onto a 00 Metolius TCU that was only on 2 cams, in a roll over, in Zion sandstone...
Eeeek.
Longest fall I've seen on the smallest gear was a 30 footer onto a #2 HB brassie. Can't believe it held...and...was the only piece between heaven and earth...
Brian in SLC
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dirtineye
Apr 20, 2004, 4:54 PM
Post #69 of 80
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In reply to: In reply to: Tedc, that number 3 ball nut is cheating LOL, you can't really consider those small gear!... Uhhhh. It's smaller than a black Alien (couldn't wiggle that f#$&er in there) and about the same as your "aid only" green Zero.
No way, the #3 ballnut is much smaller than the green zero, but it is rated at 8 kN. #3 ballnuts are totally safe bomber pro when set correctly in hard rock.
Tell you what though, if you will supply the #1 ballnut, I'll go fall on one and see what happens!
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 20, 2004, 8:55 PM
Post #70 of 80
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The smallest ballnut is almost as good as the larger sizes. These pieces are the bomb.
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tedc
Apr 20, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #71 of 80
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The ability of a "small" piece to hold a fall rarely has anything to do with it's rated strength. I think it impossible to to place a #1 ball-nut so that it will hold 8KN in even the best Wingate sandstone. Assuming that you are prificient in gear placement; the strength of small placement is all about rock strength and contact surface area. And the contact surface area is where the ball-nuts shine.
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dirtineye
Apr 21, 2004, 12:02 AM
Post #73 of 80
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In reply to: The ability of a "small" piece to hold a fall rarely has anything to do with it's rated strength. I think it impossible to to place a #1 ball-nut so that it will hold 8KN in even the best Wingate sandstone. Assuming that you are prificient in gear placement; the strength of small placement is all about rock strength and contact surface area. And the contact surface area is where the ball-nuts shine.
Your wingate choss can't compare to good southern sandstone. Some of the sandstone here is as hard or harder than granite. Come visit and see for yourself! Bring your ballnutz too, there's a lot of uses for em here.
I can absolutely point out one spot where a number one would probably hold anything you can put on it, short of destroying it. Wanna try it?
As for what makes a good placement, Yeah that's correct, you're preaching to the choir.
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speedy
Apr 21, 2004, 12:25 AM
Post #74 of 80
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Took a 30 foot fall onto a beak while aid soloing. I wasn't expecting it to hold, but it did.
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speedy
Apr 21, 2004, 12:26 AM
Post #75 of 80
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Took a 30 foot fall onto a beak while aid soloing. I wasn't expecting it to hold, but it did.
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