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mshore
Apr 26, 2004, 6:17 PM
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7 hours for a lead tradman - what route were you on? Is the route east coast? Where at?
In reply to: Iwant to get up the pitch as quickly as possible without putting my belayer into a coma. My longest pitch was about 7 hrs and my belayer actually fell asleep.
Learn to solo dude!
Be careful when you get funky!
--------------------------------------
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ammon
Apr 26, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: BOUNCE TESTING CAN RUIN A PERFECTLY GOOD SCETCH HOOK PLACEMENT
On which routes? Maybe when putting up FA's.
You have some good points. I think you need to know WHEN to bounce test and when NOT to...... but, to make a statement that "Bounce Testing is Pointless". Well, that's straight-up WRONG.
In reply to: Iwant to get up the pitch as quickly as possible without putting my belayer into a coma.
You don't have to make a career out of it while bounce testing. Bounce and GO.
I have to disagree with you. I move a lot faster on the actual piece when I have tested it. Therefore, feeling more comfortable about getting higher more quickly on your steps.
Also, think of all the time wasted when you whip. Another good reason to make sure the gear is solid enough to hold you.
Just some of my thoughts.
Cheers, Ammon
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lambone
Apr 26, 2004, 7:07 PM
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This topic was kinda funny/lame the in the first place, to see it being debated again truly defines PIONTLESS.
I'm pretty sure every aid climber with half a functional brain knows that in some cases it is critical to bounce test your pieces, and sometimes it a waste of time....sometimes you want to bounce them hard as you can, sometimes just a quick hop to set them into place. So, from what I gather the point of this thread is to bash on those who don't know the difference yet. Which reeeaaly is a totaly pointless endeavor.
In reply to: I don't think I would really like to do a full pitch of beaks and hooks without somthing on the pitch that would hold a real fall :shock:
Better stay of certain harder El Cap routes then...like The Sea, Straw, Native Son etc...where it sounds like you might be the type to place a "chicken bolt" in the middle of an extensive hooking section.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 28, 2004, 8:04 PM
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I was pretty well (pointlessly) pickeled in whisky when i started the post. as for the solo thing i have done that while putting up new rts. I do lack a decent self belay device so i tie off short which is a total pain in the butt. allmost all of my first accents are done with the intent of establishing a good free climb. I do try to make the climbs exciteing without being stupidly dangerous. i try to stay away from bolt ladders and take care to drill where it is going to make the most sense for free climbing. I try to make sure that there is a hold to clip from and that ground or ledge fall is avoided if at all possible. the hand drilling takes awhile from a bad hook or crap piece. I can drill a 3" hole in 17 min on rappel but it sometimes takes me an hour from a verry thin hook (especialy if the hook keeps shifting) so relieving my partner of this duty would be ideal. I do need her arround to do the freeclimbing once i get it drilled. Also sometimes i give her the sharp end for awhile if there is good gear . makes it more of a teamwork thing and gives me a break untill i have to go back up there and aid and drill again. I did put up an A2+ once with no cheater bolts. It didn't get freed for 11 years and hasen't been repeted as a free climb since. I guess I like the idea of useing the bolts so that the climbs actualy get climbed. I know i am not ready for a real wall that is harder than A2. Someday I hope 8^) I certainly don't like drilling enough to ever add a bolt to a climb. I dont bring the drill on established rt's unless I am replaceing bad belay bolts.
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mshore
Apr 28, 2004, 8:24 PM
Post #30 of 38
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WOW LMAO Am I missing something or did we just get a pooptube of information that no one asked for?
keep up the good work.....
i will keep bounce testing.....
mike :P
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 28, 2004, 8:54 PM
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Sorry that last post was so long and rambeling. I was trying to answer about the last 5 posts. Reasuring somone that I wouldn't go putting cheater bolts on lurking fear and trying to explain why a pitch took 7 hrs. Mike I belive you asked that question?
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 28, 2004, 9:02 PM
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I just re read my origional post and it is pretty obnoxious and full of s#it. Sometimes the whisky can do that to me. It did bring out a bunch of decent responses though so it wasen't a total waste.
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cjcalls
Apr 28, 2004, 10:28 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2003
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I think this proves a good point.
Drinking and driving is very bad.
Drinking and speaking your mind is even worse.
I think some folks need one of those blow tube thingies on thier computer to measure if they are drunk before it will start up.
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epic_ed
Apr 28, 2004, 11:33 PM
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No worries, Trad. It created some interesting debate. By and large, we all agree that if it's C1 or C2, get on the damn piece and boogie.
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ricardol
Apr 30, 2004, 12:43 AM
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In reply to: No worries, Trad. It created some interesting debate. By and large, we all agree that if it's C1 or C2, get on the damn piece and boogie.
.. gotta love this website --
.. its all easy to say when we're sitting behind our computers .. in an air conditioned office ..
.. a totally different thing when you have 1000' off the deck .. nothing but air beneath you, the wind is whippnig your aiders all about .. you are soloing ..
.. not saying that you need to test everything .. its just that things are much different when its real ..
-- ricardo
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ajizzl
May 1, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Just got done bathing in whisky and taking shots from my p-tube.
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mshore
May 3, 2004, 12:09 PM
Post #37 of 38
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:?
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bigwalling
May 3, 2004, 2:07 PM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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