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yay_chris
Jul 14, 2004, 1:39 AM
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Does anyone do this?
Just wondering!
Peace.
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kungfuclimber
Jul 14, 2004, 1:42 AM
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yes. Because sometimes I want to fish a placement out thats not optimal, but mostly because I don't want to get caught without it for the next pitch (assuming multipitch switching leads).
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bigdrop
Jul 14, 2004, 1:42 AM
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Yup,
Every once and a while i change my mind about a placement.
I place slung hexs alot and even when unweighted they can somtimes be tricky for me to reposition or remove.
~jc
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kman
Jul 14, 2004, 1:43 AM
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yup
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dirtineye
Jul 14, 2004, 1:51 AM
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What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?
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yay_chris
Jul 14, 2004, 1:57 AM
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Wow... I was sure people were going to say "pssf... no!"
I've been tempted to bring one up with me on several occations for most of the reasons prevously mentioned. Now I just might start!
My philosophy was, if I can't get out a non-optimal piece, I leave it for the second... but I think a nut-tool might be a good idea.
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coylec
Jul 14, 2004, 4:18 AM
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Yes, though I haven't used it much.
coylec
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addiroids
Jul 14, 2004, 4:42 AM
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In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?
Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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korporal
Jul 14, 2004, 5:03 AM
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One of my partners learned to carry his nut tool the hard way. He was about 20 feet of the deck without protection when he tried to get a sling around a column in a crack and he couldn't. Luckly we were a group of three and one of us (me) wasn't doing anything. The ground went up to about 10 feet to the side of where the leader was. I walked up it and then bouldered the few feet over to him and handed him his nut tool.
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reno
Jul 14, 2004, 5:11 AM
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Yep, unless my second doesn't have one (which automatically means he/she has to buy the beer,) for all the reasons mentioned.
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keithlester
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Jul 14, 2004, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with? Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
Rules? what are these things called rules? You're a climber, rules dont apply. If you booty a bit of gear, its yours, full stop. You'll be tellin us next you pay your taxes on time and stick to the speed limit. Who let these nice people start climbing?
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brutusofwyde
Jul 14, 2004, 6:42 PM
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Not only for the aforementioned cleaning dirt out of cracks, I carry mine on well-travelled routes so I can scarf the odd piece of booty onto my rack before my second ever sees it!
Brutus
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keithlester
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Jul 14, 2004, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with? Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
By the way, you're dead right about both climbers having their own tool, and always carrying it. It gets alot more uses than just removing gear. Threading slings is one that comes immediately to mind, and cleaning cracks like another poster wrote.
I just bought the metolius tool, and I like the weight its gonna save by having its own krab. Usually it lives on my harness when I'm leading and on a gearsling if I'm cleaning a pitch, I suspect thats quite a popular way with most tradders.
I never tried a leash, but I can see it has some plusses and one major minus, already referred to. That would be the same as letting axes dangle from your wrists when you are winter climbing in a chimney, a damn nuisance.
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j_ung
Jul 14, 2004, 8:13 PM
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It's not a whole lot of extra weight, so you might as well. I don't, however. Not for any particular reason, though. I just never needed one.
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coldclimb
Jul 14, 2004, 8:17 PM
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I bring mine when I can.
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markc
Jul 14, 2004, 8:32 PM
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If I'm trad climbing, my nut tool is with me.
For a keeper cord, I use a retractable keychain (like janitors carry) clipped to my chalk bag belt. If I drop my tool, it automatically retracts. The cord is a thin plastic-coated metal cable, which is just about the reach of my arm. I keep it fairly far back where it stays out of the way.
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skinnyjim
Jul 14, 2004, 8:39 PM
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I keep mine with me for booty gear, cleaning cracks, etc.. Why not carry it with you?
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petro
Jul 14, 2004, 10:14 PM
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How else are you supposed to open the beer?
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addiroids
Jul 15, 2004, 5:51 AM
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NEVER NEVER NEVER Put your nut tool on a stretchy keeper cord. The muthafvcker will invariably catch on something high, and snap back right in your face.
Just put like 1' of 3 mil tie off cord on it and onto the biner (in a straight line, not a loop or it will get all twisted).
No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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cjain
Jul 15, 2004, 8:57 AM
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[quote="addiroids"]In reply to: Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it.
What kind of dumb rule is that? :-) Forget about the second! If I can get my grubby hands on it, by hook or by crook, its ALL MINE.
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shakylegs
Jul 15, 2004, 10:53 AM
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In reply to: No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
Oh, so you met me at a crag several years ago, did you? Yeah, the keychain thing didn't last long.
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flipnfall
Jul 15, 2004, 11:43 AM
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Yes! Along with my swords and skewers. But seriously, yes I have, but usually the second guy has it for cleaning.
GT
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dirtineye
Jul 15, 2004, 1:24 PM
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[quote="cjain"]In reply to: In reply to: Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. What kind of dumb rule is that? :-) Forget about the second! If I can get my grubby hands on it, by hook or by crook, its ALL MINE.
Hey I didn't write that!
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brutusofwyde
Jul 15, 2004, 9:11 PM
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One time, on a Sierra backcountry Grade V, we took only one nut tool to reduce pack weight (No stove, half bag bivy, only one helmet, etc...) At the top of the second pitch, I set some nice anchors. When Brennan reached the end of the rope, "Climb with me!"
I could have cleaned that #6 Rock with the nut tool, but we forgot to hand it off at the changeover. Even so, probably could have cleaned it if I'd had a few minutes to play with it.
I shed a sad tear as I waved goodbye to the piece and started climbing. For all I know, it may still be up there.
Brutus
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 15, 2004, 9:18 PM
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both members of the team should have their own tool. Period. I certainly ain't gonna let you use my tool unless you are hotter than sue knott :twisted:
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mesomorf
Jul 15, 2004, 10:00 PM
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In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?
Flip the nut you're about to place around and use the clip in loop to scrape/flick dirt out of the placement. Not as good as a nut tool but able to get in where your finger can't. Sometimes you'll have to use the wire of your skinniest nut to actually get in there.
Personally I have no use for a keeper sling on a nut tool. Nothing but a pain in the butt. You have the thing in your HAND, what are the chances of dropping it? Like someone said, you're more likely to drop the piece you're digging out.
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markc
Jul 16, 2004, 2:42 PM
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In reply to: No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
None taken, I only have a few seasons of leading traditional routes under my belt. Let me know if you require a digital picture of my rack to judge shine. While I find it useful, I know others don't. To each their own.
In reply to: Personally I have no use for a keeper sling on a nut tool. Nothing but a pain in the butt. You have the thing in your HAND, what are the chances of dropping it? Like someone said, you're more likely to drop the piece you're digging out.
A bit OT, but there are ways to clean pieces without the risk of dropping them. My partners and I generally use 2' slings. Leave the sling clipped to the rope while you clean the piece. If the sling is long enough, clip the biner on the protection end to your sling/gear loop before unclipping the other biner from the rope. You can fumble pro all day and never lose a piece. With shorter slings this isn't always as practical.
mark
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 2:56 PM
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686
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sandstone
Jul 16, 2004, 3:19 PM
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Yes, most of the time I carry one on lead. It's definately worth the weight. Sometimes it gets used for fishing out a nut that didn't go in quite right and has to be moved, sometimes it gets used for cleaning dirt out of a crack, etc. I use the Metolius one that has the wiregate clip, because it's a minimum weight solution (nothing extra needed to hang it on the rack).
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tedc
Jul 16, 2004, 3:21 PM
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Re: Carrying a nut-tool on lead
Yes and No.
I do carry it; but when I'm leading it's called a "cleaning" tool.
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scubasnyder
Jul 16, 2004, 3:28 PM
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I always take mine with, you never know what you cant find, it cleans out dirt well too.
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mspclimber
Jul 18, 2004, 1:23 AM
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I don't carry a nut tool on lead trad climbing. Too me it seems too much like a dull knife that could end up stuck in me - more than any other piece of gear. Never had any problems with only one nut tool. On a big wall we have a specialized weighted nut tool that can also be swung like a mini hammer to clean with.
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dredsovrn
Jul 18, 2004, 1:28 AM
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I just keep it on my harness all the time. Sometimes you may want to move a nut. Sometimes you need to dig some dirt out of the crack. If I don't keep it on my harness, I will forget it when we swap leads and then I/we are screwed. I don't even take it off when I sport climb. It just lives there.
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fredrogers
Jul 20, 2004, 3:15 PM
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I guess I'm in the minority here...I never have taken a nut tool on lead, and never needed it. But then my problem is that you have to always remember to swap out the nut tool at each belay.
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 20, 2004, 4:23 PM
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If you put up new rts you definatly need it for trenching out dirt filled cracks. basicly mine lives on my harness with all the other crapola that makes up my Oh $hit kit. i climb enough that i can't be bothered to keep track of what is on there for each climb so the basics just stay there.
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hosh
Jul 20, 2004, 7:16 PM
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I never leave the ground wihout mine. There's often times when I have to reposition some gear and need to pick at it for a while to get it out from where it's gone. It's not that heavy, it doesn't take up that much room on the rack and it's not really in the way... Why not bring it?
Hosh
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fredo
Jul 23, 2004, 9:53 PM
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yep, cuz I'll be cleaning the next pitch. Plus if one gets dropped by my partner or me then there is a backup word
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irockclimb
Jul 24, 2004, 4:17 AM
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yea i def always carry my nut tool when i trad lead and also when i second a leader
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david.yount
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Aug 14, 2004, 5:30 PM
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Lives on my harness, along with much other paraphenalia. At sport crags the youngsters stare. In gyms everybody stares. Yeah, well, I like the attention.
Caranut Tool or those two by Metolius have built-in biner at end, save's weight big time. I tether it with about 3-feet 3mm cord, girth-hitched to my forward right gear loop. The dangly cord I clean up with a slipped overhand on a bight.
I thought those retractable keychain tethers would be kewl. But they aren't long enough in some instances and the tension of the retracting spring is non-trivial when I'm delicately extracting a fixed cam waaaaaaaaaaaaayy back in a crack. That tension also annoys me while I use the tool for any job.
Same reason I never did try the old skool telephone curly wire solution.
In reply to: I don't carry a nut tool on lead trad climbing. Too me it seems too much like a dull knife that could end up stuck in me - more than any other piece of gear.
David Yount.
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deleted
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Aug 14, 2004, 8:25 PM
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a prepared climber always has a nut tool, a couple of prussiks, anchor material and extra biners living on his harness.
with your nut tool you can clean dirt out of cracks, knock off small, exfoliated flakes and all other manner of gardening; eat canned foods; extend your reach while placing a nut; salvage booty; clean out one of your own hung nuts; splint broken fingers; and open a beer at the end of the day (if you've splinted your broken grabbers with it, leave the butt-end of the tool extended past your fingertips so's you can open that guinness).
if you ever find yourself in the predicament of having to yell down, "hey, you have your nut tool on you?" ... you might as well just append it with, "... 'cause i'm obviously a LOSER!"
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petsfed
Aug 14, 2004, 9:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with? Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag Rules? what are these things called rules? You're a climber, rules dont apply. If you booty a bit of gear, its yours, full stop. You'll be tellin us next you pay your taxes on time and stick to the speed limit. Who let these nice people start climbing?
Its just the rules he operates by. My rule for booty is whoever cleans it keeps it. There are exceptions (the two man camalot extraction for instance, but there was a nice carabiner attached to it, and I already had a 3.5, I didn't really need another yet), but for the most part this is true. How do you deal with bootied gear?
To the question at hand, I always carry one with me. Just cause if we swap, chances are we'll forget to swap who carries the nut tool.
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rhu
Sep 8, 2004, 4:07 AM
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I try to do so, but my usual partner decided that he liked mine so sometimes it isn't on my harness when I need it. Otherwise it stays with me along with my Reverso.
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