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tradmanclimbs
Jul 15, 2004, 9:18 PM
Post #26 of 43
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both members of the team should have their own tool. Period. I certainly ain't gonna let you use my tool unless you are hotter than sue knott :twisted:
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mesomorf
Jul 15, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #27 of 43
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In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?
Flip the nut you're about to place around and use the clip in loop to scrape/flick dirt out of the placement. Not as good as a nut tool but able to get in where your finger can't. Sometimes you'll have to use the wire of your skinniest nut to actually get in there.
Personally I have no use for a keeper sling on a nut tool. Nothing but a pain in the butt. You have the thing in your HAND, what are the chances of dropping it? Like someone said, you're more likely to drop the piece you're digging out.
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markc
Jul 16, 2004, 2:42 PM
Post #28 of 43
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In reply to: No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
None taken, I only have a few seasons of leading traditional routes under my belt. Let me know if you require a digital picture of my rack to judge shine. While I find it useful, I know others don't. To each their own.
In reply to: Personally I have no use for a keeper sling on a nut tool. Nothing but a pain in the butt. You have the thing in your HAND, what are the chances of dropping it? Like someone said, you're more likely to drop the piece you're digging out.
A bit OT, but there are ways to clean pieces without the risk of dropping them. My partners and I generally use 2' slings. Leave the sling clipped to the rope while you clean the piece. If the sling is long enough, clip the biner on the protection end to your sling/gear loop before unclipping the other biner from the rope. You can fumble pro all day and never lose a piece. With shorter slings this isn't always as practical.
mark
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 2:56 PM
Post #29 of 43
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686
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sandstone
Jul 16, 2004, 3:19 PM
Post #30 of 43
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Yes, most of the time I carry one on lead. It's definately worth the weight. Sometimes it gets used for fishing out a nut that didn't go in quite right and has to be moved, sometimes it gets used for cleaning dirt out of a crack, etc. I use the Metolius one that has the wiregate clip, because it's a minimum weight solution (nothing extra needed to hang it on the rack).
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tedc
Jul 16, 2004, 3:21 PM
Post #31 of 43
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Re: Carrying a nut-tool on lead
Yes and No.
I do carry it; but when I'm leading it's called a "cleaning" tool.
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scubasnyder
Jul 16, 2004, 3:28 PM
Post #32 of 43
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I always take mine with, you never know what you cant find, it cleans out dirt well too.
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mspclimber
Jul 18, 2004, 1:23 AM
Post #33 of 43
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I don't carry a nut tool on lead trad climbing. Too me it seems too much like a dull knife that could end up stuck in me - more than any other piece of gear. Never had any problems with only one nut tool. On a big wall we have a specialized weighted nut tool that can also be swung like a mini hammer to clean with.
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dredsovrn
Jul 18, 2004, 1:28 AM
Post #34 of 43
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I just keep it on my harness all the time. Sometimes you may want to move a nut. Sometimes you need to dig some dirt out of the crack. If I don't keep it on my harness, I will forget it when we swap leads and then I/we are screwed. I don't even take it off when I sport climb. It just lives there.
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fredrogers
Jul 20, 2004, 3:15 PM
Post #35 of 43
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I guess I'm in the minority here...I never have taken a nut tool on lead, and never needed it. But then my problem is that you have to always remember to swap out the nut tool at each belay.
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 20, 2004, 4:23 PM
Post #36 of 43
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If you put up new rts you definatly need it for trenching out dirt filled cracks. basicly mine lives on my harness with all the other crapola that makes up my Oh $hit kit. i climb enough that i can't be bothered to keep track of what is on there for each climb so the basics just stay there.
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hosh
Jul 20, 2004, 7:16 PM
Post #37 of 43
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I never leave the ground wihout mine. There's often times when I have to reposition some gear and need to pick at it for a while to get it out from where it's gone. It's not that heavy, it doesn't take up that much room on the rack and it's not really in the way... Why not bring it?
Hosh
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fredo
Jul 23, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #38 of 43
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yep, cuz I'll be cleaning the next pitch. Plus if one gets dropped by my partner or me then there is a backup word
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irockclimb
Jul 24, 2004, 4:17 AM
Post #39 of 43
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yea i def always carry my nut tool when i trad lead and also when i second a leader
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david.yount
Deleted
Aug 14, 2004, 5:30 PM
Post #40 of 43
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Lives on my harness, along with much other paraphenalia. At sport crags the youngsters stare. In gyms everybody stares. Yeah, well, I like the attention.
Caranut Tool or those two by Metolius have built-in biner at end, save's weight big time. I tether it with about 3-feet 3mm cord, girth-hitched to my forward right gear loop. The dangly cord I clean up with a slipped overhand on a bight.
I thought those retractable keychain tethers would be kewl. But they aren't long enough in some instances and the tension of the retracting spring is non-trivial when I'm delicately extracting a fixed cam waaaaaaaaaaaaayy back in a crack. That tension also annoys me while I use the tool for any job.
Same reason I never did try the old skool telephone curly wire solution.
In reply to: I don't carry a nut tool on lead trad climbing. Too me it seems too much like a dull knife that could end up stuck in me - more than any other piece of gear.
David Yount.
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deleted
Deleted
Aug 14, 2004, 8:25 PM
Post #41 of 43
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a prepared climber always has a nut tool, a couple of prussiks, anchor material and extra biners living on his harness.
with your nut tool you can clean dirt out of cracks, knock off small, exfoliated flakes and all other manner of gardening; eat canned foods; extend your reach while placing a nut; salvage booty; clean out one of your own hung nuts; splint broken fingers; and open a beer at the end of the day (if you've splinted your broken grabbers with it, leave the butt-end of the tool extended past your fingertips so's you can open that guinness).
if you ever find yourself in the predicament of having to yell down, "hey, you have your nut tool on you?" ... you might as well just append it with, "... 'cause i'm obviously a LOSER!"
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petsfed
Aug 14, 2004, 9:19 PM
Post #42 of 43
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with? Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device. TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag Rules? what are these things called rules? You're a climber, rules dont apply. If you booty a bit of gear, its yours, full stop. You'll be tellin us next you pay your taxes on time and stick to the speed limit. Who let these nice people start climbing?
Its just the rules he operates by. My rule for booty is whoever cleans it keeps it. There are exceptions (the two man camalot extraction for instance, but there was a nice carabiner attached to it, and I already had a 3.5, I didn't really need another yet), but for the most part this is true. How do you deal with bootied gear?
To the question at hand, I always carry one with me. Just cause if we swap, chances are we'll forget to swap who carries the nut tool.
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rhu
Sep 8, 2004, 4:07 AM
Post #43 of 43
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I try to do so, but my usual partner decided that he liked mine so sometimes it isn't on my harness when I need it. Otherwise it stays with me along with my Reverso.
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