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sarcat
Aug 19, 2004, 9:06 PM
Post #51 of 77
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Go clarki! Call him on that S9 (or S10).
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cloudbreak
Aug 19, 2004, 9:16 PM
Post #52 of 77
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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I like to climb...
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ikellen
Aug 19, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #53 of 77
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Don't get me wrong - I think bouldering is very fun. I just dont like the people who only boulder and think all other climbing sucks. I enjoy a fun sustained multi-pitch route just as much as a V3 problem, but I dont think that multi-pitch is the only type of climbing people should do.
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jt512
Aug 19, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #54 of 77
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In reply to: I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals. * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. * Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering * They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do. * They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own * Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch. * Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no. But for now, I will continue to not boulder and not have a beanie and not carry a mattress. -Kate.
Best of rc.com nomination.
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kalcario
Aug 20, 2004, 12:12 AM
Post #56 of 77
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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*Only difference here is I am not a self masturbating egomaniac*
So you must be a non self masturbating egomaniac...I always wondered why you guys boulder in groups
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coylec
Aug 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
Post #57 of 77
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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In reply to: Mostly I hate boulderers. Let me define this further. I hate the sk8 punk refugees in their asscrack pants and wool beanies continually spewing in co-opted surf speak and flicking their cigarette butts all over the place. I hate the sixteen year old trustafarians standing on the shoulders of giants to FA V8 without the least inkling in their bong addled brains that Bob Murray climbed it barefoot before they were in diapers. I hate the twinkies and beer work ethic that arises from five move routes. It’s NOT that I hate bouldering…..It’s just the mentally lazy culture that seems to engulf it that I hate.
I was going to post something like this, but then traddad did it first. Covers it all: the beanies, the cigarette butts, the useless spray, and such. I just couldn't have done such a wonderful job with it.
I take my helmet off to you.
edit: I don't dislike most boulders, just the ones that are pricks. Same goes for trad, sport and the rest as well. I don't discriminate.
coylec
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clarki
Aug 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
Post #58 of 77
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 192
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touche!!!!
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mandrake
Aug 20, 2004, 12:58 AM
Post #60 of 77
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 188
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In reply to: In reply to: I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals. * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. * Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering * They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do. * They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own * Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch. * Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no. But for now, I will continue to not boulder and not have a beanie and not carry a mattress. -Kate. Best of rc.com nomination.
Damn, beat me to it! Like reno, I spit up my coffee when I read Kate's post.
I'm not a boulderer (not that there's anything wrong with that!) but I see no reason to crack on anyone else's game.
A lot of the criticisms of boulderers I see seem to me to be really just criticism of youth culture. That, and it's very trendy just now, which turns some people off for some reason. Look at it this way, when people are bouldering, they're not in your way on yer routes!
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climbthemiz
Aug 20, 2004, 1:30 AM
Post #61 of 77
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Registered: Jan 25, 2004
Posts: 38
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Some people on this website must really have no life,
If you like to pull on three move V Blah Blah problems go ahead and slap that caked sloper
If your into crimping and cruxy sequences go ahead and clip that bolt on the project
If your into slaming that sketchy little 1# camalot in, 30 feet runout, be my guest
However dont write under your alias bashing other forms of climbing
Its like runners saying "I hate those 40m dash runners, why dont they run the marathon? Do they not have the balls?"
Andy Nelson
Proud Climber of Trad, Sport, and Bouldering
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holdplease2
Aug 20, 2004, 2:15 AM
Post #62 of 77
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
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mmm slap that caked sloper
love it, Proud Andy Nelson. :)
-Kate.
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jamaica
Aug 20, 2004, 4:42 AM
Post #64 of 77
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Registered: Jul 22, 2004
Posts: 188
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Bouldering is fun, but it really doesn't give me any kind of rush, I consider it training. I really like to push myself when I completly forget about the ground, for me, climbing is all about being high into the air without anyone else around (except my belayer who is pretty far below me) and only focusing on my next move. I don't like to cop out and be able to drop down three feet onto the ground.
Jamaica 8^)
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 20, 2004, 6:03 AM
Post #65 of 77
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
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so lately i've been doing a lot of bouldering, since i can never find someone to climb with and am usually pressed for time if i wanna get out and play -
which is weird for me because 1)i'm not that strong on one arm yet since a shoulder rebuild and 2)i really prefer trad and alpine to just about anything else...
but
there is something to be said for topping out highball problems like the ones that fill up little cottonwood canyon, especially without a spotter - its very, very much a mental thing and i do think it has improved my overall composure on the rock considerably. being scared and doing it anyway, and sending it or backing off without falling has really started making me a better climber in the head, which is really a good thing for the trad and the alpine
now having said that -
i'm getting f*king sick of leaving the rocks with pockets full of cigarette butts, used tape, food wrappers, beer cans, etc....wtf people of salt lake ? can't you pick up your gdamn trash ???!! i don't care if you can send those v5s while i'm flailing on a v1 - next person i see huck a piece of trash is getting one of my size 43 resoles shoved right up the buttocks...
i like bouldering. i hate trash in the woods. the 2 seem to be going hand in hand out here these days... :cry:
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james_climber
Aug 20, 2004, 8:24 AM
Post #66 of 77
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 304
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i been climbing with some boulderers and i have seen that they are too afraid too lead and also hate runouts they ar e a chiken sh&%t
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james_climber
Aug 20, 2004, 8:26 AM
Post #67 of 77
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 304
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they dont have balls
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 20, 2004, 12:27 PM
Post #68 of 77
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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Boulderers like to hang in packs and spray smack, socialize, act cool and send short problems. I like to climb long rts with a single partner, move smoothly, feel the wind in my hair, enjoy the solitude of the belay ledge after a 60 meter pitch while i bring my partner up. I like the endurance factor of climbing a 1,000 foot face and then figureing out how to get back down. I like the View. I boulder a bit on days when i cant find a parntner. lately I find that I would rather solo a long easy rt than hang arround on little rocks on those partnerless days. 8^)
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sevrdhed
Aug 20, 2004, 12:27 PM
Post #69 of 77
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Registered: Feb 5, 2004
Posts: 923
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In reply to: i been climbing with some boulderers and i have seen that they are too afraid too lead and also hate runouts they ar e a chiken sh&%t
Ok, I wasn't going to degrade myself enough to respond to this post, but I have two things to say. The following mocking sarcasm of this guy is one:
That's weird. I've been bouldering with sport climbers and I've noticed they're too afraid to top out on a highball without ropes. The ninnies. C'mon, that statement I quoted is just plain silly. I boulder. I lead. Generalizations of entire populations of people due to ignorance and possible a few bad encounters with particular members of that population is what caused the holocaust!
The other is that I've noticed the same thing Paganmonkeyboy has. LCC has become pretty gross with regards to idiots not cleaning up their crap. CLEAN UP YOUR CRAP!
Also, I just thought of a third thing. Anyone else notice the massive amounts of hatred towards bouldering here, and the total lack of dislike for bouldering outside? I have yet to hear any trad master hardman walking by me at the gate boulders say ANYTHING to me besides "Hey, hows it going, beautiful day." and other friendly things. So, unless you're going to actually talk smack outside the internet, shut up.
Steve
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keinangst
Aug 20, 2004, 12:48 PM
Post #70 of 77
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
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So many of the replies are based on this assumption:
"You have the option to go cragging, but choose to boulder instead."
Remember, most places have boulders that are far more accessible (short drive, walk, bike) than the clifflines. Think about the law of averages--you are going to have many more boulders out there than you have pristine faces. And they're more widespread.
That said, if you go to a crag and JUST boulder there, that's kinda sad. :D
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wilson
Aug 20, 2004, 1:38 PM
Post #71 of 77
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 22
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Types of Boulderers:
1. V-Guy: V this, v that. I'm sick.
2. Un-v-guy: Grades don't matter. I climb, therefore I am.
3. Flow-er: I just like to flow over the rock and stuff.
4. Highball Dude: If it can't break me it ain't worth climbing.
5. The Computer Programmer/Father/Guitar Player/Comic Book Fan/Boulderer/College Student/Sport Climber/Blog Writer/Juggler/Buick Owner Person: Climbing is a large part of this complex person who is, like most people, perty damn hard to pin down with a single noun.
Rant:
Categories are formed by an arbitrary choice of identity components. The distinction between types of boulderers, much like the distinction between climbers, relies on a subjective selection of traits from what is typically a rather vast array of choices.
People are usually pretty hard to pin down, but I think the constant reminder of these climbing categories actually homogenizes climbers in their respective groups such that:
Trad Guy is all about ethics and must conform to the ethical madness of the brotherhood of tradness.
Boulderers need to be rad, smoke blunts, and be willing to represent.
Sport climbers need to understand trad ethics are dumb and be in love with the gymanstic flow over rock.
The defining characteristics of each grouping are static and thus the people involved are limited in how they produce THEIR climbing world. Instead of feeling it out and coming to grips with some particular relationship which is all theirs, they simply co-opt the dominant ideology of their respective category. When it is time to write the "What Climbing Means to Me" essay, all answers will be reducible to only a few common ideas.
To recap: Categories are dumb.
sick with the flu,
tommy
http://egorealized.blogspot.com
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 20, 2004, 1:58 PM
Post #72 of 77
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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many of my climbing partners trad, sport, aid, ice, alpine and boulder. so i don't buy the tradclimbers cant sport thing. I do think that limiting yourself to bouldering in is going to cheat yourself out of a lot of good climbing. If you limit yourself to just bouldering but you carry an attitude that you are really rad then you don't have a clue as what real climbing is.
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chimp-chimp
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Aug 20, 2004, 3:27 PM
Post #73 of 77
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I go through phases with bouldering. I usually boulder only in the gym, and only when I hit a plateau with route climbing. Then I boulder for a month or so, hit a bouldering plateau and return to route climbing. But bouldering doesn't hold my interest as much as, say, redpointing a sport climb. I like to piece together a sequence of a much longer length than I can find on a boulder problem. And I'd definitely rather climb multi-pitch trad in Yosemite for the same reasons.
I'll also boulder if I have limited time at the gym that day, but that's usually a big bummer for me.
I've gone on one bouldering trip, and while it was definitely the coolest bouldering I'd done (besides bouldering in the Valley), I was left feeling like I didn't accomplish much that weekend. And that's my overall complaint with bouldering. I use it to train, but I don't love it like some of you guys.
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gritgirl
Aug 24, 2004, 9:01 PM
Post #74 of 77
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 46
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I think I am lucky to get to boulder in an area without the stereotypes that lots of people have talked about. I've only met polite people (both trad and boulderers) who seem to be quite serious about what they are doing and don't have alot of time to spend sitting around talking trash, dropping their litter everywhere and basically pretending to get the job done. I suspect that this is because the weather here in Yorkshire is usually crap and if you want to get anything done you have to do it double time before the weather changes.
To each their own I suppose but isn't it really all about the rock?
By the way, I trail run and I don't hate road runners, I backpack but I don't hate people out walking their dogs, I weight train but I don't hate people who use the CV machines. I just figure I'm the lucky one cause i'm having more fun!
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eyeclimb
Aug 25, 2004, 2:38 PM
Post #75 of 77
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Registered: Aug 17, 2004
Posts: 63
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True, bouldering is just short routes but I think it's more challenging; but that's just me. Different people have different preferences. :D
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