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tisar
Sep 15, 2004, 7:48 AM
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Training for noobs
1. How often should I climb/workout?
Climbing is hard on the body so don’t forget to rest. Three to four times a week is enough for most people. If you’re still looking for more, do some light cardio training like jogging and stretching. Swimming is a good option. Muscles need time to recover after a good workout. Over training will not do anything other than keep you from climbing.
2. Do I need a special strength training for climbing?
All in all, no. Though you’ll get an advantage if your body’s good in shape and you have a good core strength. Climbing itself is a perfect workout for the whole body, so climbing is the best training for climbing. Beginners tend to climb with much more force than needed. Working on your efficiency therefore leads to faster improvement than pumping your muscles. Watch women climbing! They are the masters of efficiency.
To prevent injuries due to imbalance of muscles it’s recommended to do some push ups and train the finger openers as well as the back extensors.
3. Should I train my grip strength / buy me a fingerboard
No, no and again: NO! To understand this it’s necessary to know that there are no muscles in your fingers – just tendons and ligaments which provide the power of your forearm to the holds. Those, while untrained, need to adjust to such forces slowly. In contrary to fast growing muscles this adjustment takes months to years to take place. Forced exposure on them will almost certain lead to injury. Fingerboards are for experts, period.
You’ll also will notice that holds in moderate routes are big enough. If you have problems with holding, better footwork and matching grip force will do the trick.
4. My … hurts so bad, what can I do?
Rest. While resting, search the web for “warm-up” and “stretching”. Next time you get to the crag/gym do both.
5. Training on the wall
To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously.
There are lots of exercises you can do while climbing:
- Down-climb as much as you can.
- Climb silent, i.e. place your feet as precise as possible making no sound.
- Try looking good while climbing. Elegance rules and helps you to develop a better body consciousness.
- Try different styles: dynamic, static, frog-style, turned in, etc.
- Imitate different climbers (again: women are the most efficient climbers).
- Imitate animals (skip the elephant, your trunk just won’t do it).
6. A few notes on footwork
- Follow gravity. If your body tends to 'fall' into a certain direction, place a foot right there. Don't mind if there's a good foothold, a bad one or even none, just place your foot there.
- Move your hip actively over your feet. The hip is the center of gravity. Placing it consciously over one foot relieves both your other foot and your hands for the next move.
- Place your toe tips only. Beginners often place too much of their feet, or worst, their instep flat to the wall. This turns out your leg and blocks the hip joint. 'Tips only' gives your hip a broader moving range to allocate your gravity center as needed.
- Look at your feet! Watch them until placed properly. Easy said, but often you'll find yourself looking elsewhere while doing the last couple of inches to the foothold. It takes some time and attention to get used to it but is worth it.
7. What else?
Don’t push the grades! Try to get familiar with the new challenge at a comfortable level. By the time your body will build up engrams for the different moves which will help you to cope with harder problems later. There’s no use in just pulling yourself up the wall – at a certain level there will be just nothing left to pull on.
8. Literature
A collection of the most popular books on the topic.
- Freedom of the Hills contains just a few notes on the basic movements. But since it's the outdoor and climbing bible anyway, it won't hurt to take a look at it.
- The Self-Coached Climber is one of the newer releases. It contains a superb analysis of climbing balance and movement and offers superb guidance to develop your own training schedule.
- Training for Climbing is supposed to be is "The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance." Haven't read it by now, but those who did recommend it highly.
- The Rock Warriers Way. Not strictly a training instructional, but as Güllich put it "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". So the RWW concentrates on the mental priming for your climbing performance.
I bet you can fill half a library with books on climbing, this is just a small collection to start with. Some more reviews can be found in the Media Section of rockclimbing.com. If you got more suggestions, feel free to pm me, I'll add them.
(Thanks to alpnclmbr1 for editing and corrections!)
* edited 11/2/06 to add footwork
* edited 1/5/07 to fix markup
* edited 10/4/07 to add literature
(This post was edited by tisar on Oct 4, 2007, 10:02 AM)
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littlelizard
Sep 15, 2004, 6:00 PM
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Thanks! It's good to read some common sense advice that I can understand. I've only been climbing for a few months... and I think I'm obsessed. I can only climb once a week now, but we're building a wall at home. I've been doing some pull-ups, sort of :? , but I'll be glad when I can train for climbing by climbing.
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adoubleyou
Sep 16, 2004, 7:10 AM
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I love the idea of imitating animals. When I first started climbing, I was amazed by the gracefulness of my climbing partner. He moved up the routs like there is no gravity, like a dance. I often refere to him as "Gollum" from "Lord of the Rings". OK, the moves are about the same, and he's got no hair on his head either, but he definitely doesn't have a spilt personality :wink:
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taldrich
Sep 16, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Thanks for the tips.. Its just what I've been looking for. I've been told than women climbers are very graceful and make it look easy, but I don't think I fit into that category....yet anyway
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slablizard
Sep 16, 2004, 7:16 PM
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One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading.
Use TR for warm up and routes WELL ABOVE ( 1 to 2 full grades ) your lead skills.
es: if you can lead 5.9 TR route above 5.10b
TR them 2-3 times MAX then start leading them (if possible)
If you can "feel" what a 12b feels you CAN HANGDOG! (pull on quickdraws) It's a great technique to see what a hard move looks like and improve one's climbing intelligence. I'ts also good to build power. TR if you can and try move after move, like you do when you boulder. Set a goal to get 2 moves in a row clean, then 3...and so on.
DOn't stop! When you can climb 10a it's time to try 11s and keep going up, you will only have more "toys" to play with. Don't get stuck climbing 10a and be happy with it. Challenge yourself.
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stoverstan
Sep 17, 2004, 5:39 AM
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Don't worry about training till you have a least a couple seasons under your belt of just doing a lot of different climbing. That being said, I would say cardio is most important, esp. if your a bigger climber like me 190lbs. I've found that the better my cardio strength is the easier it is for me to keep under control and have a cool head at all times, that is a must in climbing. You must always stay in control, and keep breathing. When your cardio is weak you start getting a little light headed and your climbing ability goes straight down the drain, you get tight, stop breathing, and fall. Also for safety reasons you want to never be out of breath and foggy headed.
Your muscles will be stronger too if they get all the oxygen they need. I'd say unless you can run 6 min mile and or run for 5 or more miles at a ~7:30 mile pace, don't even worry about messing around with finger boards and all that crap, you'll be too winded and out of control to climb hard otherwise.
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taino
Sep 17, 2004, 10:19 AM
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In reply to: One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading.
So, you're saying then that Joe or Jane nOOb should go out and start leading trad right away?
Or, were you talking about leading sport?
Yes, I knew what you meant. Is a nOOb going to know the difference?
Regardless, I disagree. On the sharp end, even on sport, is where people can get hurt a lot more easily; nOObs especially. Let people log some time on TR before they start leading.
T
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anykineclimb
Sep 17, 2004, 10:53 AM
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Agree with Taino.
Noobs are still getting their head straight on TR and should be VERY comfortable before venturing into leading.
Do agree with TRing harder routes. always fun to "play" on stuff I can't lead.
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fixednut
Sep 17, 2004, 12:04 PM
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In reply to: To understand this it’s necessary to know that there are no muscles in your fingers – just tendons and ligaments
Just so you know, there are intrinsic muscles that both originate and insert in the hand and are responsible for aiding in finger abduction, adduction, and flexion.
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stoverstan
Sep 17, 2004, 12:10 PM
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I have a mixed feelings about leading while your just getting into the sport. My first reaction is say you should just keep top roping for at least a full season and feel secure on ~5.10 outside.
But with the following exceptions I don't see a problem with someone trying out leading under the right circumstances.
1) the climber is solid on ~5.10 outside.
2) it is preferably a safe sport route with little chance of decking out or hitting any ledges, if it is trade to be no greater then a 5.6-7 you don't want to challenge your climbing ability and ability to place solid protection.
3)Have a very experienced belayer.
4) Know your knots, anchors, placing and inspecting protection, clipping, rescue etc.
5) Can down climb the routes you can climb with the exception of deadpoint or dyno moves.
* oh by the way don't be fooled into thinking that bouldering is the "safe" way to practice. As many or more people get lower leg injures etc bouldering then they do say top roping or leading. A top rope fall is a stretch on the rope with a good belayer.
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tisar
Sep 17, 2004, 12:25 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: To understand this it’s necessary to know that there are no muscles in your fingers – just tendons and ligaments Just so you know, there are intrinsic muscles that both originate and insert in the hand and are responsible for aiding in finger abduction, adduction, and flexion.
Nitpicker :wink: . See the point?
- Daniel
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ophir
Sep 28, 2004, 7:33 PM
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don't forget to have fun man
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sakura
Jul 22, 2005, 6:55 AM
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Cheers tisar,
Good thread. Very helpful! :wink:
Chris
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xuehui
Jul 23, 2005, 9:11 PM
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I feel ya LittleLizard. I have only climbed for two months and just like you I only get to climb once a week. I try to work out during the week to make up for not being able to climb more often. Sometimes it gets frustrating because I am hoping to see my progress go a little faster but it's kinda hard with just climbing once a week.
My husband and I are thinking of building a wall at home too. Let me know how your wall turns out!
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geoslim
Aug 29, 2005, 7:08 AM
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Helpful hints are always good, thanks.
Josh
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mjprimus
Aug 9, 2007, 10:51 PM
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great tips for someone just getting into the sport ... I started climbing about a month ago and have become very addicted. I've checked out a few books from the library about climbing and try to check out the noob forums on here as much as I can ... I really like the tip of imitating animals ... I've noticed that when I make a move so it feels natural, it turns out to be the easiest way to climb a route - when I'm making a wrong move, it feels awkward and usually ends up with me falling
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majid_sabet
Aug 9, 2007, 11:22 PM
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As a well qualified n00b, you are allowed to make mistakes which include dropping your n00be partner on TR, lead and sports and your fu8kup will be dismissed under n00b’s law.
Other the hand, experienced leaders, sports or TR climbers, please do not choose a n00b to belay you at any cost.
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mjprimus
Aug 10, 2007, 4:53 AM
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I disagree on that one as there are several regulars at my gym and they all are more than willing to belay me and vice versa ... They even made a point tonight that although I don't have the skill or form built yet to climb the advanced routes they do, I can still belay them without any problems
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JDiabo
Aug 10, 2007, 5:42 AM
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thanks for the post, very helpful and informative
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thomasribiere
Aug 10, 2007, 8:19 AM
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let's make this thread a sticky.
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MONKEY5
Aug 16, 2007, 5:06 PM
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hey tisar what are other types of techniques to work on to get to be a better climber
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stymingersfink
Aug 18, 2007, 7:06 AM
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MONKEY5 wrote: hey tisar what are other types of techniques to work on to get to be a better climber
Not tisar, but I've a feeling he might agree with what I'm about to say...
READ MORE... SPEAK LESS!
once you have spent enough time to discover what you do not know, it becomes the time to ask questions. If you are not willing to expend the energy necessary to do your homework, why should anyone waste their time and energy trying to help you?
every question has already been asked, you just need to find the answers given to another and make them yours.
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sittingduck
Aug 18, 2007, 9:45 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: MONKEY5 wrote: hey tisar what are other types of techniques to work on to get to be a better climber Not tisar, but I've a feeling he might agree with what I'm about to say...
READ MORE... SPEAK LESS! once you have spent enough time to discover what you do not know, it becomes the time to ask questions. If you are not willing to expend the energy necessary to do your homework, why should anyone waste their time and energy trying to help you?
every question has already been asked, you just need to find the answers given to another and make them yours.
Hi man, you have posted more than 2000 posts and allow yourself to ask other users to "read more and speak less". Think about it ...
Best regards
Sitting Duck
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RB_Rockhead
Aug 18, 2007, 7:27 PM
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thanks for that list, i do beleave it will help me out plenty when on the wall (i just hope i can remember it all lol  )
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stymingersfink
Aug 19, 2007, 12:44 AM
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sittingduck wrote: stymingersfink wrote: MONKEY5 wrote: hey tisar what are other types of techniques to work on to get to be a better climber Not tisar, but I've a feeling he might agree with what I'm about to say...
READ MORE... SPEAK LESS!
once you have spent enough time to discover what you do not know, it becomes the time to ask questions. when it is obvious that one has not reached the true point of asking questions, all they're doing is flapping their gums. perhaps that point was lost on you? oh well.
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Lethal-Climber
Aug 21, 2007, 5:36 PM
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Thanks for the quick 101!
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JRHROCK
Aug 31, 2007, 8:43 PM
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I have listened to what you have written. Alot of it makes sense right off the bat. Other things I will have to become better to understand. Would you know how I can keep my hands dry? They are always sweaty. Is there anything else you can offer for advice, I am naturtally good at clibming, but I am also 225lbs. It is alot to handle. But maybe some help on some exercise routines would be good.
Thanks.
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madkiki
Sep 20, 2007, 12:40 PM
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I work in a climbing gym at the local YMCA and do not climb outdoors at all. Everything I know is from my experience working indoors at our gym.
I agree with everything in the training guide for noobs except one thing. The part about Women being natural climbers. That is not right at all. It does not matter if you are male or female, young or old. The guide does mention the word EFFICIENCY, and that explains it all.
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allroy71
Nov 1, 2007, 12:10 AM
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Great guide. I feel like an imbecile for posting before reading this!!!
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gunkiemike
Nov 1, 2007, 1:57 AM
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3 things you can do when you get the urge to do SOMETHING to advance your climbing, but you can't run out to the gym (maybe you just went there, or your ride is unavailable, or it's 11:30 PM. You get the idea):
1) Go for a 3 mile jog/run.
2) Lie down on the floor and do 50 crunches. Crunches are one of the most underrated exercises for climbing IMO. If they're too easy, do them with your legs elevated 10" off the floor with a 10-20 lb weight on your chest.
3) Walk away from the nacho chips/ice cream/beer.
Personally, I find #1 and 3 a lot harder than #2. 
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tlong50
Nov 5, 2007, 3:08 AM
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I think that the question of when a new climber should start leading is entirely dependent on each individual climber. Everyone has different natural physical and mental abilities to start. I've seen people that have no problem leading 5.10 sport after a month or two of climbing and others that I wouldn't trust to lead anything. It just depends on the person.
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andypro
Nov 5, 2007, 3:35 AM
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my current partner refuses to lead anything. I guess it's just not his time yet. Of course we've been climbing together for..oh...10 FREAKIN YEARS! But whatever. I don't push him to do it if he doesn't want to. Sure, I pick on him, but it's all in good fun. Maybe one day.
He's just not confident in his abilities to place gear. I've taught him the basics, and he's played with it quite extensively...Can build one hell of an anchor....Just wont take the sharp end. He can follow anything I can lead and unstuck the most welded ballnut. I'd rather have a living and happy climbing partner than a freaked out, pissed off, dead friend.
--Andy P
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chilli
Nov 25, 2007, 7:40 PM
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first, i'd have to agree with taino that it is a bad idea for any daisy fresh climbers to ride the sharp end without getting some good experience FIRST (either TR or following). i like the thread overall. n00bs, please, don't lead without somone experienced with you who can give you advice for the first few times. be safe.
Nicely put together, tisar. i'm really glad to see some constructive and supportive information provided to the new climbers out there.
admittedly, the negativity that is becoming rampant on the RC forum was beginning to get me down.
building this sort of supportive climate is an intitiative i'd like to see more of.
(This post was edited by chilli on Nov 25, 2007, 7:42 PM)
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viper720
Dec 9, 2007, 6:00 AM
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Excellent, I just started climbing recently after swimming for a while and it really helped when I started.
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kricir
Dec 9, 2007, 6:56 AM
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In reply to: Imitate animals (skip the elephant, your trunk just won’t do it). |
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dta95b7r
Dec 9, 2007, 2:23 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: As a well qualified n00b, you are allowed to make mistakes which include dropping your n00be partner on TR, lead and sports and your fu8kup will be dismissed under n00b’s law. Other the hand, experienced leaders, sports or TR climbers, please do not choose a n00b to belay you at any cost.
Thats just umm wow.
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ts83
Dec 10, 2007, 1:31 AM
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kricir wrote: In reply to: Imitate animals (skip the elephant, your trunk just won’t do it). Hey buddy, speak for your self, maybe your trunk won't, if so thats a bummer.
I suppose it all depends on the size of the crack you're trying to jam. 
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gadkins1974
Dec 12, 2007, 5:10 PM
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This is still a great post. I try to read it every single time I come onto the site. At some point, I want it to become like a mantra to me. What I like most is that it's pretty much common sense, something that can so easily be forgotten in the rush of a new experience. :)
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lg0782
Mar 6, 2008, 11:22 AM
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awesome information, much appreciated for making it a sticky!
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cuddlefish
Mar 24, 2008, 1:29 AM
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thanks so much for the tips!
i especially like this one-
"Try looking good while climbing. Elegance rules and helps you to develop a better body consciousness."
i took ballet for years and have definitely noticed that remembering my dance training helps me climb more smoothly. when i start having trouble it is usually because i've gotten myself into some unnecessarily awkward position. body awareness is very helpful! thanks again!
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rockclimbergabor
Mar 24, 2008, 2:12 AM
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Walk up to the route. Look up, scope the holds and sequences, then do whatever feels natural to get to the top. dont worry yet about looking good or climbing efficiently. developing your natural movement and climbing instinct is way more important then trying to climb like someone else. this will develop over time. for now, try not to concentrate too much. free your mind, let the free energy flow.
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alexanderS
Apr 6, 2008, 7:54 PM
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whats goin on, im alex, my cusin asked me to go up to the adirondacks with him this summer for 2 weeks, he's been climbing for about three years or so but i want to have a little bit of knowledge before i go so he doesnt have to teach me everything, ive done it in the past a little but not alot. im just wondering what kind of shit should i know and what gear should i bee looking out for
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decnet
Apr 7, 2008, 4:11 PM
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Thanks! It's very straightforward and useful hints
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joswald
May 8, 2008, 3:36 PM
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What is cardio strength? This seems like an oxymoron
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michaelsanford
Jun 8, 2008, 1:17 AM
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One word of caution I'd add for new climbers, one I wish I'd received when I was 9: don't crank everything.
You only need to grip a hold hard enough to keep you from slipping off it, no more. Over-gripping (cranking) will kill your forearms and fingers, get you pumped, and end your afternoon early.
(Sure, there are circumstances where you may need to crank, but those are the rare times that the minimum force required to stick it is also the maximum force you are capable of applying .)
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traviswhite1988
Jun 17, 2008, 3:30 AM
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Thanks for the information tisar, I'm just getting into rock climbing and unfortunately don't know any body near by who does it also but i'm trying to get a bunch of friends into it, so the books and some of this information should be very helpful!
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Follow
Jun 30, 2008, 1:02 PM
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We just returned from a trip to Utah, including staying in Moab for 3 days. My wife bought me a several hour climbing trip for my 40th birthday - I had a blast. I've always been interested in climbing, and figured it would be a natural hobby progression as I am a backpacker.
I've recently bought a BD harness, Petzel Ecrin helmet, BD ATC Guide belay device and a Petzel tiblock. Already had some bieners. I'm holding on shoes until I get back to the local gym to try different ones out & get some advice. Any other must-haves?
Interesting reading...
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LadyAutumn
Jul 28, 2008, 3:44 AM
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Great thread thank you very much, I am certainly going to be trying to be like different animals next time I am in the Gym! 
now how does that song go .... you've got to fly like an eagle, prowl like a lion in Africa, leap like a salmon home from the sea, to keep up with me, you've got to walk like a panther tonight You know you are all gonna be singing it next time you are on the wall/rock/dancefloor!
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Dianna
Aug 4, 2008, 8:40 PM
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Regarding the hip-over-foot advice: I recently have started taking Tai Chi classes, and the practice this gives for quiet, slow, balanced movement is excellent restful meditative training for climbers. Just a thort.
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Rawsko
Aug 9, 2008, 4:56 PM
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I'm brand new to rock climbing (you could even call it pre-brand new). I've always loved to climb, and I recently met some people who inspired me to start climbing more seriously. However, I'm currently on a backpacking trip that will continue until next june. I'm stuck to a budget, and the space confines of my bag disallow the purchase of all the gear I would need. I'm hoping to start training for rock climbing while I travel so that when I get home, I'll have a leg up (which is a particularily distinct advantage in climbing, is it not? -- pun intended). I'm going to keep my eyes open for the book Training for Climbing, but in the mean time, are there any exercises anyone can suggest for me? After reading about the tendons in my fingers, I guess I shouldn't start dead-hanging from door frames? Are there other forearm exercises I should be doing? I'm hoping to buy some kind of small forearm strengthening gadget or the like, but there are a lot to choose from. Any advice?
thanks a bunch!
-Ben
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brandom
Sep 2, 2008, 7:06 AM
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Hey Diana, I think you're on to a point that deserves repeating. I've done lots of yoga and some Tai-Chi (Taoist). The yoga is great and makes awesome stretching and body work, but the Tai Chi really does give a lot more sense of moving the body's weight around gracefully. I think it's worth taking a class for a season just to find out.
Cheers
Ben Random
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HappinessIsWinning
Oct 16, 2008, 5:09 PM
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Rawsko wrote: I'm brand new to rock climbing (you could even call it pre-brand new). I've always loved to climb, and I recently met some people who inspired me to start climbing more seriously. However, I'm currently on a backpacking trip that will continue until next june. I'm stuck to a budget, and the space confines of my bag disallow the purchase of all the gear I would need. I'm hoping to start training for rock climbing while I travel so that when I get home, I'll have a leg up (which is a particularily distinct advantage in climbing, is it not? -- pun intended). I'm going to keep my eyes open for the book Training for Climbing, but in the mean time, are there any exercises anyone can suggest for me? After reading about the tendons in my fingers, I guess I shouldn't start dead-hanging from door frames? Are there other forearm exercises I should be doing? I'm hoping to buy some kind of small forearm strengthening gadget or the like, but there are a lot to choose from. Any advice? thanks a bunch! -Ben
Did you read the section about strengthening? You need to focus on skill over strength, if anything I would start trying to WALK up the steepest thing you can safely walk up. Feet are the most important thing you can focus on. If you strengthen your hand strength before learning proper technique you will be more likely to injure yourself when you do start climbing.
You can also find that book Training For Climbing by following this link http://www.google.com/...590189374#ps-sellers
That book discusses how to train, both what to do and what to avoid when getting started.
I would also recommend buying and reading Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills by Craig Luebben
This book outlines some climbing technique as well as safety techniques. This book will offer you the skills to get a "leg up" in the most useful manor, by making you a safe climber.
You can find Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills by Craig Luebben at this link: http://www.google.com/...&sa=N&tab=wf
Good Luck, and Have fun
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AaronM777
Mar 6, 2009, 5:45 PM
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cool. good info
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Bryan2102
May 20, 2009, 4:13 PM
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This was great. I started climbing 6 weeks ago, and I've definitely been pushing the grades. The tips about the footwork helped as well.
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holleratme64
May 29, 2009, 8:08 AM
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dude u never heard of climbing chalk? ur a member of this website, why dont u take a look a the gear, n for your weight do more cardio and do not forget to breath while climbing, it makes it easier for people who have extra weight to carry to move around especially if your breathing rite more oxygene can get to your muscles.
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beardy
Jun 14, 2009, 9:07 PM
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While you are talking about books. One that seems to be getting good reviews (and has only been out since April) is Climbing Games. There is a sample of it here - http://issuu.com/pesdapress/docs/climbinggamess
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schultzie_4
Jul 10, 2009, 4:53 PM
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Great Post, thanks!
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bill413
Jul 10, 2009, 7:50 PM
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holleratme64 wrote: dude u never heard of climbing chalk? ur a member of this website, why dont u take a look a the gear, n for your weight do more cardio and do not forget to breath while climbing, it makes it easier for people who have extra weight to carry to move around especially if your breathing rite more oxygene can get to your muscles.
I found it hard to breath while trying to read that as one sentence.
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yuan
Aug 4, 2009, 1:27 PM
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www.liuchangzhong.com
it is a good rock climbing training school in china, including basic and advanced climbing skills, bouldering, outdoor climbing etc.
Coaches are best professional rock climbers in China with experience and qualification.
welcome for your consultation and participation~~
tel: 13764606209
email: dorothychen1014@hotmail.com
(This post was edited by yuan on Aug 4, 2009, 1:29 PM)
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skatergirl
Aug 14, 2009, 12:31 PM
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I really liked this thread, I am getting back into climbing it had many useful tips. |
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2thetop
Oct 11, 2009, 6:50 PM
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I appreciate everything said here. Very new to climbing and have heard lots of talk, but you have definitely set me straight on more than most.
I like the gym I have here in town, but am chomping at the bit to get out on real rock and give it a try!
Will definitely take it slower than I want to. Not only for safety reasons, but for the pure notion to get the most out of every climb.
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marc801
Oct 11, 2009, 8:55 PM
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bill413 wrote: holleratme64 wrote: dude u never heard of climbing chalk? ur a member of this website, why dont u take a look a the gear, n for your weight do more cardio and do not forget to breath while climbing, it makes it easier for people who have extra weight to carry to move around especially if your breathing rite more oxygene can get to your muscles. I found it hard to breath while trying to read that as one sentence.
For fucksake, if you don't know the difference between you're and your or rite and right, why should anyone believe anything you have to say about training?
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cimber15
Dec 18, 2009, 4:00 PM
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thats a pretty decent guide
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Kevthecoffeeguy
Jan 17, 2010, 12:13 AM
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I got one thing to say to noobs :don't worry bout upper body strength. Think FEET. if you are pulling down ya ain't using yer feet. hold yourself IN , WALK up the climb
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Robot
Jan 20, 2010, 5:26 PM
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Thanks for some great advise! I have only been climbing for about a year but have became addicted. When I started there were a couple girls showing me a few things and I understand that they are more graceful and wonderful teachers. Something else that has helped me A LOT is what stymingersfink said, start asking questions. I have yet to meet a rude person at the wall not willing to help out.
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belikerk
Mar 15, 2010, 3:10 AM
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Bouldering is one of the best ways for getting ready to sport climb. it get's your fingers in shape. Emphasize the point of using your feet
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Scooterchic
Apr 1, 2010, 6:51 PM
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Thanks mucho!
Cheers, Scooterchic
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tothesummit
Apr 26, 2010, 8:16 PM
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All in all good advice. I've found that a large majority of injuries and ailments in any sport seem to stem from people not warming up, stretching, and cooling down. It's not sexy or exciting. It's just how our bodies work. I also take a vitamin supplement for climbers that has given me pretty good results: http://www.vitarack.myshopify.com
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Mad_Man_Mark
Apr 28, 2010, 3:55 AM
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Good thread, very helpful fir a newb like me.
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macattack
Jun 5, 2010, 9:18 PM
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just woke up from passing out...lol
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brendar7639
Jun 9, 2010, 9:36 AM
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Well, great work! You have helped me to improve my knowledge about this field. Thank you so much for sharing.
http://moviesonlinefree.biz
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socalclimber
Jun 9, 2010, 12:01 PM
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slablizard wrote: One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading. Use TR for warm up and routes WELL ABOVE ( 1 to 2 full grades ) your lead skills. es: if you can lead 5.9 TR route above 5.10b TR them 2-3 times MAX then start leading them (if possible) If you can "feel" what a 12b feels you CAN HANGDOG! (pull on quickdraws) It's a great technique to see what a hard move looks like and improve one's climbing intelligence. I'ts also good to build power. TR if you can and try move after move, like you do when you boulder. Set a goal to get 2 moves in a row clean, then 3...and so on. DOn't stop! When you can climb 10a it's time to try 11s and keep going up, you will only have more "toys" to play with. Don't get stuck climbing 10a and be happy with it. Challenge yourself.
While I think I understand the sentiment, this post is loaded with really bad advice.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jun 9, 2010, 12:02 PM)
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gazoo9224
Jul 18, 2010, 6:19 AM
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besides tai chi ,pilates is also a great training tool.
training for climbing: i bougth the book and i am very happy to have done so. it contains good and clear advice. within 2 weeks you should notice a clear difference in your climbing
http://tinyurl.com/2cvyc26
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CynOmaha
Aug 11, 2010, 2:06 AM
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Tisar, this is a weird question, even for a n00b thread.
I'm an artist, and a new climber. Here's me as an artists:
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=cynthia+martin+comics&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
....
I won't show you pics of me as a climber. ;)
Here's the thing... I'm painting some pics from my last trip, and two paintings based on the Heidi Almighty article in Climbing's May 2010 issue. There's very little chance that I will show or sell these paintings, but I'd like to contact the photographer(s) and let them see what I am working on, and offer them a generous cut, should the paintings ever sell.
I can attach pics of the paintings in there larval state, or post them to whatever gallery you have for media... I'm just trying to the right thing. :) Can you help me?
I'm a newbie re climbing but I'm an old hand at publishing, and I just want to introduce myself to the photog artists politely, and offer them the cut they are due. I've worn out the May 2010 issue of Climbing but I can't find any contact emails for the photographers.
thanks much,
Cynthia Martin
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STINGN
Mar 15, 2011, 1:50 AM
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Just got my climbing gear, been out of the game for 2 years now and just got me gear and the gf gear. hopefully going to show her this ASAP and get going on this!
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mpg76
Apr 3, 2011, 4:52 AM
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it takes most people longer to learn how to lead belay well then it does to grab the sharp end. theres a lot of variables in the belay system dont get a big head until you got a few years under your bely
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guangzhou
Apr 3, 2011, 6:29 AM
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taino wrote: In reply to: One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading. So, you're saying then that Joe or Jane nOOb should go out and start leading trad right away?
Maybe not right away, but the sooner, the better.
In reply to: Or, were you talking about leading sport?
In my opinion, either.
Of course, this is assuming the climbers wants to lead. Some climbers are just not interested
and shouldn't be pushed to do so.
Yes, I knew what you meant. Is a nOOb going to know the difference?
In reply to: Regardless, I disagree. On the sharp end, even on sport, is where people can get hurt a lot more easily; nOObs especially. Let people log some time on TR before they start leading. T
I agree people can get hurt leading, but that doesn't mean that with proper instruction, they can't elarnt o elad very early on.
I had a contract teaching special ops and they learned to climb on lead. First thing they learned was gear placement on ground. Then they top-roped for two days while aid climbing. Spent a week aid climbing without a top-ropes, then learned to free climb on lead.
You would be surprised at how fast they learned to move efficently. Because they started with aid climbing, they also learned to trust their gear placement early on. They also learned to palce gear quickly and efficiently.
I do believe that most people can learn to elad after just a few days of climbing if they are interested int he sport and leading aspect. They just need a good instructor to help.
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Killermandude
Apr 11, 2011, 10:56 PM
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tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously.
Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?
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jt512
Apr 11, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?
Doubtful.
Jay
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Killermandude
Apr 12, 2011, 12:32 AM
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jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay
I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense.
Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?
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Killermandude
Apr 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
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Though in either case, come to think of it, that's what I get for using the internet, eh?
Lesson learned.
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jt512
Apr 12, 2011, 5:13 AM
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Killermandude wrote: jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense. Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?
*plonk*
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Jmus
Apr 24, 2011, 12:07 PM
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i dont know if anyone else suggested it but i read John Longs (auther) second edition climbing anchors for the classes ive been taking for my major and its a really good book covering climbing and extremely helpfull
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jjones16
May 21, 2011, 3:17 AM
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There are a few good points here. Being a beginning leader I agree with logging some time on TR before attempting to lead. Even if you do this, it still doesn't teach you what it's like mentally to climb above pro, and the movement is different with regard to finding the best stance to clip in. I wouldn't recommend anyone start to lead with only a few days in. Just an opinion.
The other point that's good is that people shouldn't lead until they're ready. Some never will be. I just recently had to drop a partner because he's stuck top-roping and refuses to try to lead or even to learn to competently and safely belay a leader. Bummer.
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crashkickave
Sep 16, 2011, 1:34 AM
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I just started climbing about 6 months ago, and I'd like to start going with friends instead of taking classes. Just wondering if there's any certification needed or how much I should train before do this?
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Rmsyll2
Sep 16, 2011, 2:14 AM
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There are certifications for guiding, none that I know of for climbing. In general, climbing outdoors is done at one's own risk and liability.
.
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Rmsyll2
Sep 16, 2011, 2:32 AM
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"Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?"
"Doubtful."
"I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense.
Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?"
Jay has been making terse complaints about language ability at rc.com for some time. English is the language for this forum, as I read it, and that is the language being butchered commonly at this forum. And imo reading ability is often as lacking as writing, both being exampled in your post.
The term for Jay's response would imo be "sardonic", and it would be explicated as an abbreviation of "It is doubtful that anyone at this forum could clarify whatever is meant by 'this'."
Jay used to be very helpful, so far as I've seen from older posts, and is an expert well qualified for that position. I miss his precisely definitive explanations, but also appreciate his wicked humor.
.
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crashkickave
Sep 17, 2011, 12:31 AM
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word, thanks. hopefully i'll get some gear soon and be able to start climbin
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rankinesoccer
Sep 24, 2011, 2:58 AM
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I think that the best guide on the market is Mounaineering Freedom of the Hills. It goes over tons of info, and complicated stuff that you will get to later like aid and big wall.
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juxzta1
Oct 6, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Thank you!
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lolawilcoxx
Apr 3, 2012, 6:41 AM
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This training guide will definitely be of great help.
We'll be having a mountain climbing this summer and Im pretty much excited about it. 
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lukutz
May 14, 2012, 6:01 AM
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thank you for the information that you gave :)
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camer
May 29, 2012, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: Imitate animals (skip the elephant, your trunk just won’t do it). Do you think it would be ok to bark like a dog whilst climbing
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fiveinfinity
Aug 4, 2012, 11:43 PM
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This is a great post-I've been checking out www.rockclimbingtechniques.org for their posts--really great and helpful stuff for beginners! Thanks tisar!
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climbingtrash
Aug 5, 2012, 2:01 AM
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fiveinfinity wrote: This is a great post-I've been checking out www.rockclimbingtechniques.org for their posts--really great and helpful stuff for beginners! Thanks tisar!
Nice plug. cept you forgot to make the link clicky, but I fixed that for ya.
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CWA
Oct 22, 2012, 3:31 PM
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Also check out this Guide to Climbing. It addresses introductory issues regarding indoor and outdoor climbing.
http://www.climbingwallindustry.org/images/uploads/CWA_Guide_to_Climbing_Web.pdf
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gaelstorm
Mar 21, 2013, 1:23 PM
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As far as training, I have found aerial dance (a.k.a. aerial silks) to be quite effective for gaining core, leg and grip strength. Also cultivates fluid movement.
I've been doing aerial dance for just over a year, and just started rock climbing more actively since this year began.
This time last year, I would have had a lot more trouble climbing. Having better core / grip / leg strength is definitely a plus.
There are others in the same studio I take classes from that are rock climbers as well; the skills sets overlap quite a bit.
Climb on.
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benjaminlh
Jun 15, 2013, 7:59 PM
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Thank you. just what i needed! :)
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squeaka
Jun 16, 2013, 3:17 AM
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jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense. Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak? *plonk*
My translation is
"To be a good climber, just climb.
To be a better climber, consciously think about how you climb"
Its not rocket doctoring folks.
(This post was edited by squeaka on Jun 16, 2013, 7:11 AM)
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Kartessa
Jun 17, 2013, 3:56 AM
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squeaka wrote: jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense. Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak? *plonk* you people seriously cant comprehend that statement? My translation is "To be a good climber, just climb. To be a better climber, consciously think about how you climb" Its not rocket doctoring folks.
Holy shit, what time zone are you in?!
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squeaka
Jun 17, 2013, 6:44 AM
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Kartessa wrote: squeaka wrote: you people seriously cant comprehend that statement? My translation is "To be a good climber, just climb. To be a better climber, consciously think about how you climb" Its not rocket doctoring folks. Holy shit, what time zone are you in?!
Comprehension does not come with an expiry date
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peterdays
Dec 7, 2013, 5:34 AM
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These are helpful piece for training guide among beginners.
Thanks.
Pete
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boulderbrad
Aug 13, 2014, 5:55 PM
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Now, I didn't read the entire thread because there's so much to read but apologies if this has already been answered...
Is a fingerboard the same as a hangboard? I'm a beginner but I bought the Metolius simulator 3D at my local shop.. Is it actually bad to train on this as a beginner? I've always wanted a good pull-up/chin-up bar in my apartment but my door frames don't work for it.. so I bought it with the mind of using it for pull-ups while at the same time doing all the other recommended exercises to improve my core, grip, and all the other muscles that can improve my climbing.
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jbrown2
Aug 15, 2014, 4:35 PM
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2. Do I need a special strength training for climbing?
All in all, no. Though you’ll get an advantage if your body’s good in shape and you have a good core strength. Climbing itself is a perfect workout for the whole body, so climbing is the best training for climbing. Beginners tend to climb with much more force than needed. Working on your efficiency therefore leads to faster improvement than pumping your muscles. Watch women climbing! They are the masters of efficiency.
To prevent injuries due to imbalance of muscles it’s recommended to do some push ups and train the finger openers as well as the back extensors.
Climbing is in no way shape or form the perfect exercise. Climbing is focused on back, upper abs, and arms. There are many injuries that come from over use in climbing. Shoulder injuries being tops on the list finger and extremity joint injuries as well. It has been commonly understood that in order to prevent injuries due to over use in climbing it is necessary to strengthen the antagonist muscles. That would be the muscles that do not get used much during climbing. Do some research. The stronger your antagonist muscles are the stronger you will be able to get you Climbing muscles without injury.
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kennoyce
Aug 15, 2014, 5:06 PM
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boulderbrad wrote: Now, I didn't read the entire thread because there's so much to read but apologies if this has already been answered... Is a fingerboard the same as a hangboard? I'm a beginner but I bought the Metolius simulator 3D at my local shop.. Is it actually bad to train on this as a beginner? I've always wanted a good pull-up/chin-up bar in my apartment but my door frames don't work for it.. so I bought it with the mind of using it for pull-ups while at the same time doing all the other recommended exercises to improve my core, grip, and all the other muscles that can improve my climbing.
The Metolius Simulator 3D is a hangboard, and no it is not bad to train on this as a beginner. The important thing to remember is that the tendons and their support structure in your fingers is not going to be very strong and can be easily injured and take many years to develop, so you need to be careful.
Best way to use any hangboard as a beginner is to setup a pully system to remove weight so that you don't injure yourself. Pick up a copy of Rock Climbers Training Manual by Mike and Mark Anderson for more details, or check out their website.
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jcblackmon
Sep 20, 2015, 1:18 AM
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In reply to: You've supported my own (but surely not original to me) theory that women have better technique. I'm especially informed by all of #5 and "Follow gravity". In my very limited experience, I've also gotten something out of experimentally making moves with my eyes closed (sometimes I "rewind and fwd" a few times, when no one's waiting, of course), the idea being that I'll improve my proprioception. Seems to work. I wonder if anyone else does this. Glad I found this little guide for noobs. Thank you very much!
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Thanks Robot
