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socalclimber
Jun 9, 2010, 12:01 PM
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slablizard wrote: One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading. Use TR for warm up and routes WELL ABOVE ( 1 to 2 full grades ) your lead skills. es: if you can lead 5.9 TR route above 5.10b TR them 2-3 times MAX then start leading them (if possible) If you can "feel" what a 12b feels you CAN HANGDOG! (pull on quickdraws) It's a great technique to see what a hard move looks like and improve one's climbing intelligence. I'ts also good to build power. TR if you can and try move after move, like you do when you boulder. Set a goal to get 2 moves in a row clean, then 3...and so on. DOn't stop! When you can climb 10a it's time to try 11s and keep going up, you will only have more "toys" to play with. Don't get stuck climbing 10a and be happy with it. Challenge yourself.
While I think I understand the sentiment, this post is loaded with really bad advice.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jun 9, 2010, 12:02 PM)
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gazoo9224
Jul 18, 2010, 6:19 AM
Post #78 of 116
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besides tai chi ,pilates is also a great training tool.
training for climbing: i bougth the book and i am very happy to have done so. it contains good and clear advice. within 2 weeks you should notice a clear difference in your climbing
http://tinyurl.com/2cvyc26
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CynOmaha
Aug 11, 2010, 2:06 AM
Post #79 of 116
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Tisar, this is a weird question, even for a n00b thread.
I'm an artist, and a new climber. Here's me as an artists:
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=cynthia+martin+comics&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
....
I won't show you pics of me as a climber. ;)
Here's the thing... I'm painting some pics from my last trip, and two paintings based on the Heidi Almighty article in Climbing's May 2010 issue. There's very little chance that I will show or sell these paintings, but I'd like to contact the photographer(s) and let them see what I am working on, and offer them a generous cut, should the paintings ever sell.
I can attach pics of the paintings in there larval state, or post them to whatever gallery you have for media... I'm just trying to the right thing. :) Can you help me?
I'm a newbie re climbing but I'm an old hand at publishing, and I just want to introduce myself to the photog artists politely, and offer them the cut they are due. I've worn out the May 2010 issue of Climbing but I can't find any contact emails for the photographers.
thanks much,
Cynthia Martin
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STINGN
Mar 15, 2011, 1:50 AM
Post #80 of 116
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Registered: Mar 14, 2011
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Just got my climbing gear, been out of the game for 2 years now and just got me gear and the gf gear. hopefully going to show her this ASAP and get going on this!
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mpg76
Apr 3, 2011, 4:52 AM
Post #81 of 116
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it takes most people longer to learn how to lead belay well then it does to grab the sharp end. theres a lot of variables in the belay system dont get a big head until you got a few years under your bely
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guangzhou
Apr 3, 2011, 6:29 AM
Post #83 of 116
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taino wrote: In reply to: One thing...Don't get stuck Top Roping! Lead as soon and as much as you can. That alone will improve your technique a lot, since you climb and THINK a lot more when you're leading. So, you're saying then that Joe or Jane nOOb should go out and start leading trad right away?
Maybe not right away, but the sooner, the better.
In reply to: Or, were you talking about leading sport?
In my opinion, either.
Of course, this is assuming the climbers wants to lead. Some climbers are just not interested
and shouldn't be pushed to do so.
Yes, I knew what you meant. Is a nOOb going to know the difference?
In reply to: Regardless, I disagree. On the sharp end, even on sport, is where people can get hurt a lot more easily; nOObs especially. Let people log some time on TR before they start leading. T
I agree people can get hurt leading, but that doesn't mean that with proper instruction, they can't elarnt o elad very early on.
I had a contract teaching special ops and they learned to climb on lead. First thing they learned was gear placement on ground. Then they top-roped for two days while aid climbing. Spent a week aid climbing without a top-ropes, then learned to free climb on lead.
You would be surprised at how fast they learned to move efficently. Because they started with aid climbing, they also learned to trust their gear placement early on. They also learned to palce gear quickly and efficiently.
I do believe that most people can learn to elad after just a few days of climbing if they are interested int he sport and leading aspect. They just need a good instructor to help.
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Killermandude
Apr 11, 2011, 10:56 PM
Post #84 of 116
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tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously.
Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?
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jt512
Apr 11, 2011, 11:03 PM
Post #85 of 116
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Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?
Doubtful.
Jay
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Killermandude
Apr 12, 2011, 12:32 AM
Post #86 of 116
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jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay
I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense.
Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?
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Killermandude
Apr 12, 2011, 4:08 AM
Post #87 of 116
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Though in either case, come to think of it, that's what I get for using the internet, eh?
Lesson learned.
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jt512
Apr 12, 2011, 5:13 AM
Post #88 of 116
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Killermandude wrote: jt512 wrote: Killermandude wrote: tisar wrote: [ 5. Training on the wall To get a good climber climb. To get a better climber climb consciously. Nice thread, but could someone clarify this? Doubtful. Jay I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense. Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?
*plonk*
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Jmus
Apr 24, 2011, 12:07 PM
Post #89 of 116
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Registered: Apr 23, 2011
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i dont know if anyone else suggested it but i read John Longs (auther) second edition climbing anchors for the classes ive been taking for my major and its a really good book covering climbing and extremely helpfull
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jjones16
May 21, 2011, 3:17 AM
Post #91 of 116
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There are a few good points here. Being a beginning leader I agree with logging some time on TR before attempting to lead. Even if you do this, it still doesn't teach you what it's like mentally to climb above pro, and the movement is different with regard to finding the best stance to clip in. I wouldn't recommend anyone start to lead with only a few days in. Just an opinion.
The other point that's good is that people shouldn't lead until they're ready. Some never will be. I just recently had to drop a partner because he's stuck top-roping and refuses to try to lead or even to learn to competently and safely belay a leader. Bummer.
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crashkickave
Sep 16, 2011, 1:34 AM
Post #95 of 116
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I just started climbing about 6 months ago, and I'd like to start going with friends instead of taking classes. Just wondering if there's any certification needed or how much I should train before do this?
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Rmsyll2
Sep 16, 2011, 2:14 AM
Post #96 of 116
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There are certifications for guiding, none that I know of for climbing. In general, climbing outdoors is done at one's own risk and liability.
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Rmsyll2
Sep 16, 2011, 2:32 AM
Post #97 of 116
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"Nice thread, but could someone clarify this?"
"Doubtful."
"I can't tell if you're being serious, and that shit makes no sense.
Or if you're being a prick, in which case I'd ask how many languages you speak?"
Jay has been making terse complaints about language ability at rc.com for some time. English is the language for this forum, as I read it, and that is the language being butchered commonly at this forum. And imo reading ability is often as lacking as writing, both being exampled in your post.
The term for Jay's response would imo be "sardonic", and it would be explicated as an abbreviation of "It is doubtful that anyone at this forum could clarify whatever is meant by 'this'."
Jay used to be very helpful, so far as I've seen from older posts, and is an expert well qualified for that position. I miss his precisely definitive explanations, but also appreciate his wicked humor.
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crashkickave
Sep 17, 2011, 12:31 AM
Post #98 of 116
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Registered: Sep 16, 2011
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word, thanks. hopefully i'll get some gear soon and be able to start climbin
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rankinesoccer
Sep 24, 2011, 2:58 AM
Post #99 of 116
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Registered: Aug 9, 2011
Posts: 8
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I think that the best guide on the market is Mounaineering Freedom of the Hills. It goes over tons of info, and complicated stuff that you will get to later like aid and big wall.
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juxzta1
Oct 6, 2011, 12:33 AM
Post #100 of 116
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Registered: Oct 6, 2011
Posts: 11
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Thank you!
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