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jcinco
Oct 7, 2004, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: Joe-Look when I first did the route! I done three times total. I enjoyed each ascent. I am glad that someone took time and made the effort to upgraded the original fixed protection. That should clear things up.
Ummmm....kind of.
You could be saying "no comment" to the added bolts... but I doubt that.
I guess then what you are saying is that (stop me if I'm putting words in your mouth), although for years the upper part has been a heady section of free climbing, it was originally fixed? Your previous post on the original fixed gear (5 pieces), however, is at odds with the new tally (7 pieces).
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bobd1953
Oct 7, 2004, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: When I climbed Jules Verne, I made sure my gear before the long run out was as bomber as it could be, then I climbed it. I knew that what I did was similar to the experience that Wunsch must have had years ago.
Well you should wear old PA's, a two-inch swami and leave all your trick gear behind (rp's, friends, alien etc) and leave behind the knowledge that the route already has been climbed a thousand times. Then you just might feel the same experience Steve did!
Joe- no I don't agree with adding extra bolts.
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jsj42
Oct 7, 2004, 7:04 PM
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In reply to: Well you should wear old PA's, a two-inch swami and leave all your trick gear behind (rp's, friends, alien etc) and leave behind the knowledge that the route already has been climbed a thousand times. Then you just might feel the same experience Steve did!
Maybe YOOOOOOOOUUUUUUUU should climb it in PA's and leave behind your trick gear bobo.
Did you miss the part in my post where I said, "similar to" not "equal to." I also said that "I acknowledge that we have new technology today."
Once again Bob proves that he has a difficult time reading for content.
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on_sight_man
Oct 7, 2004, 7:04 PM
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In reply to: Well you should wear old PA's, a two-inch swami and leave all your trick gear behind (rp's, friends, alien etc) and leave behind the knowledge that the route already has been climbed a thousand times. Then you just might feel the same experience Steve did!
I wouldn't want to do that! That's just plain CRAZY! :D
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ambler
Oct 7, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: Joe- no I don't agree with adding extra bolts.
In reply to: Thanks to who ever took the time to upgrade the protection. |
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bobd1953
Oct 7, 2004, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: Maybe YOOOOOOOOUUUUUUUU should climb it in PA's and leave behind your trick gear bobo.
You prove again what a little asshole you are. I did the route in 1979.
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takeme
Oct 7, 2004, 7:25 PM
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In reply to: I did the route in 1983 for the first time and thought the pins/bolts on the Ear pitch were ok. The pins and bolts were used for aid on the FA. Ed later came back with Steve Hong and freed the route. The route sees a lot traffic and upgrading the fixed protection doesn't bother me in the least. The rap off the tower used to go down the north face and wasn't that big of a deal. Thanks to who ever took the time to upgrade the protection. As state before, Ed aid the ear pitch on the FA and there was at 5 fixed peices on that pitch in 1983.
Hi Bob,
Just re-read this message. Did you mean to say, "at least 5 fixed pieces", or something else? I'm curious because I still wonder if Webster originially did bolt that uppermost section of the Ear as his topo (which shows 7-8 bolts, but of course may not be exact) seems to suggest.
Charles
p.s. was that you free-soloing the Bulge on Sunday?
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on_sight_man
Oct 7, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Curious,
In looking closely at the pic, it looks like the top bolt IS a pin with a ring. Now I'm confused.
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bobd1953
Oct 7, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: Just re-read this message. Did you mean to say, " at least 5 fixed pieces",
Charles-Yes that is what I meant. How was your trip?
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takeme
Oct 7, 2004, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: When I climbed Jules Verne, I made sure my gear before the long run out was as bomber as it could be, then I climbed it. I knew that what I did was similar to the experience that Wunsch must have had years ago. Well you should wear old PA's, a two-inch swami and leave all your trick gear behind (rp's, friends, alien etc) and leave behind the knowledge that the route already has been climbed a thousand times. Then you just might feel the same experience Steve did! Joe- no I don't agree with adding extra bolts.
Bob, I don't get the attitude you're giving Josh here (other than some previous beef you guys have, maybe). I mean, regardless of how similar Josh's experience was to yours, or Steve Wunsch's, I know you wouldn't approve of adding bolts to Jules Verne. What's wrong with an impassioned defense against retro-bolting classic trad routes?
My trip to California (first time) was great. I've been taking time off since then (and gaining weight) but that should change soon as I'm heading to the Creek tonight for a few days of S&M. Which reminds me...I gotta go pack!
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bobd1953
Oct 7, 2004, 8:16 PM
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Charles wrote: Bob, I don't get the attitude you're giving Josh here (other than some previous beef you guys have, maybe). I mean, regardless of how similar Josh's experience was to yours, or Steve Wunsch's, I know you wouldn't approve of adding bolts to Jules Verne. What's wrong with an impassioned defense against retro-bolting classic trad routes?
Well Charles I am suprise that Josh even signed his name to that post. Maybe they should have a AC icon here for people like Josh who like to call people (bobo) names and not sign their real name.
Nothing wrong with passion. I have a fair amount of it. I don't agree with retro-bolting routes without the consent of the FA-party.
The last time I did the route (1996) there was a drilled angles that stuck-half-way-out that was the last of the fixed pro. Going back in a week to do it again, will see what is up.
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on_sight_man
Oct 7, 2004, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: Going back in a week to do it again, will see what is up.
That will be cool. Have fun and report back.
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dirtineye
Oct 7, 2004, 8:36 PM
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Does anyone who has done this climb know if the largest BigBro (number 5) would fit behind that big flake?
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dangle
Oct 10, 2004, 8:51 AM
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Well I've been climbing and as usual I'm late to the dance. Just getting caught up on this.
Some of you may be interested in this (if being tardy doesn't preclude views).
In October '81 I soloed the original route on Moses without a hammer (after replacing a bad bolt with a D. Angle on a previous foray).
Ed and I were acquainted but to make a very long story short; after our Moses solos Ed and I first corresponded, him from Conway and I from Amherst, then I visited him and we did a little ice. Later in '89 in Boulder when he showed me his recently shorter fingers I showed him mine (one tip missing)and he he wanted to know if it was missing when we climbed 7 years earlier(yes).
Anyway it was on this trip in Feb '82 when Ed attempted to recruit me to replace bad bolts on the Ear on Primrose (my DA on the other side had already met with approval).
Its been decades and I'm beat and its late but I don't recall any special instructions beyond pulling bad ones and replacing them with good ones that would last. No mandatory risk spacing.
Therefore much of this thread seems like hair splitting. Clip, don't clip, cam, aid, free, whatever. If you regret a loss of adventure WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING ON AN EXISTING ROUTE???
OK there aren't a lot of Moses type towers, but look around. Can you see the forest or only single trees? There's more virgin Wingate out there than you can shake rack at. I'd like to keep trying though...
Oh yeah. Mostly do my own routes but did PD in '86 without drill or even hammer.
I had told Ed that I have enough trouble placing bolts on MY routes, but perhaps the job done by "Mysterioso" would have been OK by him?
Why doesn't someone just ask him?
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beckerw
Oct 11, 2004, 2:50 AM
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incidentally, if i was trolling...i would have said something like:
"who cares if you did the runout....none of the mags care!"
so as i said earlier. lay off the ego.
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takeme
Oct 11, 2004, 5:34 PM
Post #66 of 69
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In reply to: incidentally, if i was trolling...i would have said something like: "who cares if you did the runout....none of the mags care!" so as i said earlier. lay off the ego.
What an ass.
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jcinco
Oct 11, 2004, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: incidentally, if i was trolling...i would have said something like: "who cares if you did the runout....none of the mags care!" so as i said earlier. lay off the ego.
Well, aren't you the clueless motherf***er who can't seem to stay on topic.
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on_sight_man
Oct 18, 2004, 1:12 AM
Post #68 of 69
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In reply to: In reply to: Going back in a week to do it again, will see what is up. That will be cool. Have fun and report back.
Any news?
For what it's worth, Mikes partner Carol posted pretty clearly that the route has definately changed since last year. That is, an added bolt...
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diesel___smoke
Nov 8, 2004, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: The ASCA has never retro-bolted anything, and as Greg has pointed out many times, he has declined to add retro-bolts at the request of FA-ists--specifically to avoid controversy such as this--which could be potentially cast the ASCA in a negative light.
Bullsh!t!!! The ASCA has done heaps of retrobolting. WTF are you smoking? Did you somehow miss the huge rivet ladders replaced by 3/8" bolts w/ASCA hangers on them in the Valley? You think an FA would drill a ladder out of 3/8 bolts? Think the re/retro-bolter did it with a hand drill as required by NPs? Don't hold your breath. And it is one of their 'sponsored'; many will know who I'm talking about, but it's not Greg.
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