|
gunksgoer
Nov 21, 2004, 4:33 AM
Post #1 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
After reading the "When should i start trad leading" thing, i couldnt help but wonder what peoples first leads were.
My first sport lead was a 3 bolt 5.7 route at rumney called "something interesting" i had tr-ed it and mach lead it first.
And, as sad as it is, my first trad lead was crimson corner at the gunks.
this 30 foot slabby face/arete is benchmark gunks 5.0. its considered hard in the grade.
so all u leaders out there, what were your first sport and trad leads? whether it was that 5.1 walk up or 5.8 horror show, fess up...
|
|
|
|
|
theishofoz
Nov 21, 2004, 4:43 AM
Post #2 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 217
|
first sport lead was a 10 b and first trad was a 5.6 (composure at snowshed at donner summit)
|
|
|
|
|
g-funk
Deleted
Nov 21, 2004, 5:00 AM
Post #4 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap was my first lead. It's a Trad classic!
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Nov 21, 2004, 5:06 AM
Post #5 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
My first sport lead was some 5.7 at Panty Wall...cant remember the name.
My first trad lead was Crimson Chrysalis (all of it but Pitches 3,4,&7). I really should climb this again, since I was so gripped for most of the day that I really dont remember most of the climb!!! :)
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Nov 21, 2004, 5:23 AM
Post #6 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Some unnamed (maybe unclimbed, considering the amount of moss) corner across the way from Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. Maybe 4th class, if that. Scared the bejeezus out of me though. I got to downclimb it first. My father saw the necessity in teaching me how to retreat LNT style. I didn't do my first sport lead until over a year and a half later.
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Nov 21, 2004, 5:27 AM
Post #7 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
Usually when I do this I place little, if any gear.
|
|
|
|
|
rendog
Nov 21, 2004, 6:05 AM
Post #8 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 2468
|
first climb was my first lead...5.8 Castle Anthrax...4 weeks later I was working and getting spit off with HUGE 25 footers on an .11a
|
|
|
|
|
thewyseclimber
Nov 21, 2004, 6:26 AM
Post #9 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 179
|
My first lead attempt was Silver Spoon, at Garden of the Gods. I took a really rotten fall, and got thrashed sliding down the 75 degree slab. Stupid crumbly sandstone made my feet slip.
Anyway, my first completed lead was Crynoid Corner, at Shelf Road. Good memories....
|
|
|
|
|
korntera
Nov 21, 2004, 7:45 AM
Post #10 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
|
My first sport lead was a 5.4 trad climb that i onsighted. A friend place the gear, then i climbed up and placed the draws and clipped in. My first trad lead was a 5.8(although it seemd like a 5.7-) And it was a top rope lead so that if my placement was bad i would not die, just take a big fall.
|
|
|
|
|
esallen
Nov 21, 2004, 8:28 PM
Post #11 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
|
Sport: The 5.7 Apendage in Rock Canyon (Utah).
Trad: The 5.8 crack on PA's Mother in Rock Canyon.
|
|
|
|
|
climbhoser
Nov 21, 2004, 8:52 PM
Post #12 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2004
Posts: 210
|
My first sport lead was either Menarete 5.8, The Pinnacle in Cheyenne Canyon, C-Springs
or
Chronic Bedwetter 5.7, Silver Cascade Slabs in Cheyenne Canyon, C-Springs
or
some 5.7 on the east side of Kindergarten Rock, Garden of the Gods, C-Springs
I honestly can't remember which came first as I was so cocky I climbed everything like I had been climbing all my life.
My first trad lead was Superslab 5.7, Smith Rock, Oregon. Pretty unmemorable, pretty easy and fun. Initiated me with gear, tho
|
|
|
|
|
numbnut
Nov 21, 2004, 9:11 PM
Post #13 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2004
Posts: 144
|
The Horseman. 5.5 in the gunks. The steepest 5.5 ever. So Good!!!!!!!! :D
|
|
|
|
|
iltripp
Nov 21, 2004, 9:16 PM
Post #14 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1607
|
I'm surprised no one else has said this yet, but my first lead was the first pitch of Jam Crack (5.7 I think) in the Valley.
|
|
|
|
|
j_from_the_307
Nov 21, 2004, 9:25 PM
Post #15 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 30
|
Trad: Edward's Crack at Vedauwoo (5.7)
Sport: 5.5 in Sinks Canyon... don't remember the name of it... much scarier than any trad I'd done. I soloed it a year later and it was such a head trip that I haven't soloed anything since.
--J
|
|
|
|
|
sandbag
Nov 21, 2004, 9:28 PM
Post #16 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 1443
|
im not sure if this counts, its a 5.7 chimmney, only about 40ft or so sans gear:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=23045
|
|
|
|
|
neuroshock
Nov 21, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #17 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
|
Sport: Tourist Trap (5.9), Torrent Falls, Red River Gorge. onsight :D. in the rain :(. most memorable parts: the arete portion of the climb and getting shortroped on every clip.
Trad: Difficult Crack (5.8), Twin Sisters, Mississippi Palisades. G-gear. TR'd first, led on 2nd time on it. most memorable part: learning to handjam mid-crux on the polished limestone (at least it was TR :)).
|
|
|
|
|
pancaketom
Nov 21, 2004, 9:41 PM
Post #18 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 391
|
sport: ripple 5.9 enchanted Rock, TX (old bolts)
trad: (other than a few placements on bolted routes at hueco), Warpy Moople, odd pitches, 5.9, sandias, NM (boy was that an adventure).
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Nov 21, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #19 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
My first attempted Trad lead was the awkward 5.9+ route Rat's Tooth at Donner summit. I made the big mistake of getting high right before, and ended up placing pro every 2 feet before my nerves got the best of me in the middle of the awkward flaring section and I came down after getting only halfway.
First sport lead was a 5.10d at the Ampatheatre near Alpine Meadows. Pretty scary, but i made it.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingbums
Nov 21, 2004, 10:37 PM
Post #20 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 117
|
sport lead, pizuto 5.9+ at the promised land in Prescott, AZ. first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily). Most of my firsts were at my home crag.
Bobby
|
|
|
|
|
ambler
Nov 21, 2004, 11:07 PM
Post #21 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
|
My first lead was about 15 feet on my second day of roped climbing. The experienced climbers we were with had wandered off, leaving me and another rookie with no gear, on a small ledge 15' below the top of the first pitch of After Six in the Valley. If we wanted to get down that night, somebody had to lead off. I wore hiking boots and had no idea what I was doing but the thrill was electric.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Nov 21, 2004, 11:36 PM
Post #22 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Southeast corner at Becon Rock. 5.7, 6 pitches.
|
|
|
|
|
spoon
Nov 21, 2004, 11:58 PM
Post #23 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 312
|
my first lead was some 5.9, the name of which i can't remember, but my second lead (about 10 minutes after my first) was an 11b, psycho-wussy, at little si. i just about had a heart attack.
|
|
|
|
|
overit
Nov 22, 2004, 12:41 AM
Post #24 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2004
Posts: 29
|
First pitch of Jam Crack, 5.7 in Yosemite. My overprotective belayer was more gripped than I was. I put 3 pieces in for him.
|
|
|
|
|
ladybigguns
Nov 22, 2004, 2:36 AM
Post #25 of 122
(9172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 25
|
first sport lead was Mr. Bungles 5.8 at the Red. Didnt like it as much as to defy the laws of tradition.... shoulda done that one first.
still working on that first trad lead.... soon though, soon.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Nov 22, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #26 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
In reply to: first climb was my first lead...5.8 Castle Anthrax...
"Oh, wicked, wicked Zoot. Oh, she is a naughty person and she must pay the penalty, and here in Castle Anthrax, we have but one punishment for setting alight the grail-shaped beacon: you must tie her down on a bed and spank her."
Hmmm... first sport rowt was wide load, 5.9 at Mount Nemo, and it felt hard and ugly, but I sent it clean. Even after getting much stronger and onsighting things many grades higher I came back and still floundered a bit. Ugly, ugly route.
I don't remember what my first trad lead was, but I remember that it was a ledgey choss pile that I probably didn't really need to protect.
My latest trad climb was also one of my first (of not that many). Front of the Pinnacle 5.5 (I think) at Bon Echo. Beautiful climb.
|
|
|
|
|
grinspoon
Nov 22, 2004, 3:30 AM
Post #27 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 328
|
Sport: Springer 10b @ NRG, Kaymoor
Trad: Jugs of Beer 5.3 @ Beer Walls, Dacks
neuroshock wrote In reply to: Sport: Tourist Trap (5.9), Torrent Falls, Red River Gorge |
|
|
|
|
grinspoon
Nov 22, 2004, 3:36 AM
Post #28 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 328
|
Kriso9tails wrote: In reply to: Hmmm... first sport rowt was wide load, 5.9 at Mount Nemo, and it felt hard and ugly |
|
|
|
|
gamehendge
Nov 22, 2004, 3:55 AM
Post #29 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
|
A 5.10b @ Powerwall in Malibu Creek State Park. A real fun and juggy route. After TR'ing 4 times though.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Nov 22, 2004, 5:41 AM
Post #31 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
Sport: Some 5.5 in Santa Barbara (San Ysidro area) with a 5.9 variation so I'd actually have pro. It was fairly impromptu on my part, and it was a bad scene. Spinning, rusty leeper hangers and the American Death Triangle.
Trad: First actual ascent, but with hangdogging: P-Crack, 5.8+, two pitches. San Luis Obispo Clean: Swallow Crack, 5.6 The finish was exciting.
Aid: Churchbowl Tree (C1)
|
|
|
|
|
abbysomebody
Nov 22, 2004, 5:48 AM
Post #32 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2004
Posts: 46
|
sport: high seas, 5.7, owens river gorge
trad: west crack, 5.9, tuolumne, led all pitches, possibly the biggest rush of my lfe
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 22, 2004, 6:10 AM
Post #33 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
My first lead ever was a trad multi-pitch in the Gunks, although it was not too hard. The route is called "Gray Face" at Skytop. Sadly, Skytop is now closed to climbing.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
verticalcrag
Nov 22, 2004, 6:27 AM
Post #34 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2004
Posts: 82
|
First sport route was Misty at Sandrock in Alabama..........rated 10c/d............
Still waitin for my first trad............so enough.
|
|
|
|
|
wiscoclimbiner
Nov 22, 2004, 6:47 AM
Post #35 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 16, 2004
Posts: 76
|
first sport 10b micro mutz on granddads
first trad an 8 at necedah
|
|
|
|
|
hopper
Nov 22, 2004, 6:49 AM
Post #36 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2003
Posts: 53
|
First (and only) leads:
"Sport": pre-placed trad gear on an unnamed 5.4 in the gunks, about a month ago
Trad: Pitches 2 and 3 of Chapel Pond slab
Can't wait for more
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Nov 22, 2004, 7:51 AM
Post #37 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
In reply to: first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily |
|
|
|
|
karlbaba
Nov 22, 2004, 8:46 AM
Post #38 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
|
First Trad lead was in High School in 1976. It was actually a 120 foot first ascent on a crag that had never been climbed before. Probably about 5.7. I didn't really know what I was doing. Unfortunately, the pitch ended on this ledge and I was a poor high school student and didn't want to leave #11 hex to rap off, so I put a rock into a crack as a chockstone and slung it to rap off it. I gave it a good yank and it broke in half, as it was only sandstone. That convinced me and I left my hex.
Didn't lead much, or climb too much until I moved to Yosemite in December 1979 and started REAL climbing. First lead there was Bishop's terrace. Then wandered over behind the Ahwahnee and saw Serenity Crack. I didn't know how hard it was or even what it was, but it didn't look high angle so I lead it anyway with just nuts. Turned out it was 5.9 and now has been uprated to 5.10. My calves were burning after that. Then lead the first pitch of Maxines after that, 10a. So my first 5.8, 5.9 and 5.10 leads were on the same day
Peace
karl
|
|
|
|
|
mcolombo
Nov 22, 2004, 8:53 AM
Post #39 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 40
|
The Owl at Mission Gorge. 5.6
a week later repeated rope solo.
about 1 year later first sport lead at Otay
|
|
|
|
|
dgkula
Nov 22, 2004, 11:48 AM
Post #40 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 73
|
Sport: Snakeskin Slab, 5.8, Rumney, NH
Trad: Holderness Corner, 5.8, Rumney, NH
|
|
|
|
|
shock
Nov 22, 2004, 11:50 AM
Post #41 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 103
|
First Trad lead: Paradise Lost- vdiff(5.4) in Dalkey Quarry Dublin.
Never done any sport(yet).
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Nov 22, 2004, 12:50 PM
Post #42 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
1st trad lead, Double Overhang, 5.6, Quincy Quarries, 12/03. I've only led trad.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Nov 22, 2004, 1:52 PM
Post #43 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: sport lead, pizuto 5.9+ at the promised land in Prescott, AZ. first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily). Most of my firsts were at my home crag. Bobby
Whoa! Anybody got a napkin? :P
|
|
|
|
|
chronicle
Nov 22, 2004, 2:47 PM
Post #44 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 664
|
Trad: Panorama Pines (5.3) at DWG. Recently climbed again to introduce my fiance to trad climbing.
Sport: None yet.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Nov 22, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #45 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
First indoor lead - You can climb indoors????
First sport lead - Doc's Dangle at Dead Cholla Wall, Taos NM - 5.10 in the snow on the last day of ski season :)
First trad lead - The Dihedrial at Narrows, Wichita Mnts OK - 5.6 I watched some buddies lead it first then grabbed the rack and setup a perfect line compared to their zip job, of coarse my second lead was way over geared.
|
|
|
|
|
climboard
Nov 22, 2004, 3:22 PM
Post #46 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
|
My first trad lead was Ecstasy Junior 5.4 at Seneca Rocks and I've been hooked ever since.
My first sport lead attempt was some 5.12 at the NRG that "didn't look too bad" from the ground. Well, one hour and twenty feet later I slinked off and completed my first sport lead, Flight of the Gumby (5.9), quite appropriate considering my earlier foolishness.
|
|
|
|
|
holmeslovesguinness
Nov 22, 2004, 3:33 PM
Post #47 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
|
First sport lead - A 5.10 (on Dead Cat's wall) at Reimer's Ranch, TX
First trad lead - Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) at Lover's Leap, CA.
|
|
|
|
|
toddtar
Nov 22, 2004, 4:15 PM
Post #48 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2004
Posts: 75
|
Trad = Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald 5.7
|
|
|
|
|
maxdacat
Nov 22, 2004, 4:21 PM
Post #49 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2004
Posts: 142
|
100 ft Slab at Narrowneck in the Blue Mountains.
The name says it all and i think it's a grade 12 or about 5.6....didn't worry about toproping as i'd spent a good 6 months getting solid at seconding. That was all gear but i don't really recall a first sport climb as most climbs in Australia have at least a couple of bolts anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
tbenson
Nov 26, 2004, 5:17 PM
Post #50 of 122
(8235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2004
Posts: 10
|
First "pseudo" sport: Sonnenris (5.7) is in the Frankenjura, Germany. I call it a "pseudo" sport because it was like 70 feet long and had 3 sketchy eyebolts!
First sport: Espresso (10d) @ Rumney. Awesome.
First Trad: Frog's Head (5.5 / 5.6) @ the Gunks. I love the Gunks, I'm glad I live here.
My second lead is kind of funny because it was the first pitch of "Kansas City". I tell people this and they're like "WOW!!! Kansas City is 5.12!!!" I have to tell them that the first pitch is only 5.4! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
moeman
Nov 26, 2004, 5:28 PM
Post #51 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417
|
Sport: Some 5.9 at Wild Iris, WY. The most memorable thing about it was that the wind was so strong that when I got hit by a gust mid-crux I barn doored and almost fell off.
Trad: Beginners Corner, 5.5 at Rocks State Park, MD.
|
|
|
|
|
ben87
Nov 26, 2004, 5:58 PM
Post #52 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
|
trad -- ragged edges at red rocks. I think I followed this before I then went and led it myself.
sport -- mass production wall at red rocks. A 5.8, a 5.9, then a 5.10a. All of these were rehearsed on TR before I led them.
-Ben
|
|
|
|
|
mr_muffey
Nov 26, 2004, 6:48 PM
Post #53 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 39
|
I was lucky enough to be a tag along with some more experianced climbers on a relaxing day out in Snowdonia national park in Nothern Wales. I lead a few of the pitches of great arete (I think it was about 8 pitches) as royal airforce jets roared up the valley below us. The last pitch was climbed in the rain which was interesting as that a first for me too. The route was put up in 1914 (I think..) back when they used a hemp rope tied around there waste and wooden chocks for protection. It was cool to start off on an ancient classic
|
|
|
|
|
bootleg
Nov 26, 2004, 7:04 PM
Post #54 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2003
Posts: 59
|
First trad lead was Second Coming (5.7) at Looking glass rock in NC.
|
|
|
|
|
coreydacat
Nov 26, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #55 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 79
|
my first trad lead was the bong, 5.4 at Jtree.
|
|
|
|
|
chanceboarder
Nov 26, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #56 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1348
|
can't remember my first sport lead, i think it was a 5.6 at Williamson Rock.
first trad lead was Jensen's Jaunt 5.6 at Tahquitz.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Nov 26, 2004, 8:18 PM
Post #57 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
There's a whole lotta sprayin' going on here! I find it hard to believe that people's first leads were 10' and 11's, but whatever. My first sport was a 5.4 called A Week With Pete @ Rumney and my first trad was also a 5.4 at Denrock Park in Lawrence, MA.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Nov 26, 2004, 8:49 PM
Post #58 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
First lead -- Turkey Hooks, a short 5.8 dihedral at Enchanted Rock in TX.
First trad lead -- Gelsa, 5.4, Gunks -- the laundry list of mistakes included ... not properly protecting the second on the P1 traverse, getting off route on P2 and making the climb harder than 5.4, being pumped from that and setting up a less-than-spectacular anchor at the top of the pitch, and overprotecting P3 so that I was clipping pro with lockers and no slings towards the top.
|
|
|
|
|
treddy
Nov 26, 2004, 9:15 PM
Post #59 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 47
|
Seem to be a lot of lovers leap here...my first real trad lead was Bear's Reach (5.7) at lovers leap...awesome and very scary all at the same time.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Nov 26, 2004, 9:37 PM
Post #60 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
First trad lead (and lead ever) was Puppy Crack 5.6 in Tuolumne Meadows.
Actually, before that I had led the runout top pitch of South Crack 5.8 (I think the top pitch was like 5.4 tops), about a 130 foot pitch with NO pro. But I built a nice anchor with aliens at the top. :D
|
|
|
|
|
lazyjammin
Nov 26, 2004, 10:36 PM
Post #61 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
|
Sport: Unknown at Mickeys Beach 5.10a two bolts then anchors with first bolt like 14 feet off the ground, scary especially since it was my first lead anywhere and no one I was with had any experience with leading. Fun though.
Trad: Great Pumpkin in Tuolumne Meadows 5.8R. First Multipitch lead too.
|
|
|
|
|
gilfy
Nov 26, 2004, 10:41 PM
Post #62 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 5
|
A 5.8 rather overbolted climb at the Red River Gorge, i Top roped it first.
fun!
|
|
|
|
|
olejeff
Nov 26, 2004, 10:59 PM
Post #63 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
|
My first sport lead was a 5.7, Mild Mannered Secretary, at Pilot Mtn State Park near Winston Salem NC. First trad lead was there also, the Dihedral Route. I believe it was a 5.7 also.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Nov 26, 2004, 11:05 PM
Post #64 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
My first "trad" lead (It wasn't Trad in those days) was Underpass at Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree, in 1973.
Don't rightly remember what my first "sport" lead was, because I was climbing them before the term was coined. Just thought of them as well-bolted climbs, sometimes with the bolts placed on rappel, and hence the first lead of one such was not remarkable as a life-changing event.
First attempt at a multi-day climb was East Buttress of El Cap.
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
cyanamid
Nov 26, 2004, 11:22 PM
Post #65 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 161
|
First sport lead was a 3 bolt 5.9 at Fucoidal Quartzite in Logan canyon that I can't remember the name of.
First trad lead, I believe were the 2nd and 4th (traverse?) pitches on Cat in the Hat in Red Rocks. I believe the whole route is rated 5.7, I don't know what the individual pitches were rated though.
|
|
|
|
|
roninthorne
Nov 27, 2004, 1:01 AM
Post #66 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 659
|
First trad/lead and first whipper- the classic 5.8 BM, Chimney Rocks, VA... now sadly closed to climbing.
First sport lead and winger- Potential Energy, Franklin Gorge, WV, thankfully still open if shamefully deteriorating...
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Nov 27, 2004, 1:22 AM
Post #67 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
I have absolutely no idea what my first lead was.
You can bet, however, that :
It was trad. Everything rap bolted in NH in the late 70's was chopped immediately.
I used only stoppers and hexes. Cams were not yet "invented" for the masses.
It was probably a one pitch 5.6 or something that I lead on my first rope, a 3/8" goldline.
My daughter, on the other hand, lead her first sport route at the age of 10. The Whimpy-Gilman Ridge at Rumney, 5.4.
Her first trad lead was the first pitch of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne, earlier this year.
|
|
|
|
|
wyattearp
Nov 27, 2004, 1:24 AM
Post #68 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2003
Posts: 365
|
TaNKS to Hueco
Penittnete Canyon
5.10d 11-12 draws Great Climb :D
|
|
|
|
|
greenmachineman7
Nov 27, 2004, 2:11 AM
Post #69 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 108
|
lol, i actually did my first trad lead before my first sport lead.
trad was Wafer Step, 5.5 in Acadia
sport was some climb on the 5.8 wall in Rumney.
huh.
|
|
|
|
|
ikellen
Nov 27, 2004, 7:17 AM
Post #70 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
Sport: Oompa Loompa, 5.8 at Owens River Gorge
Trad: The Stairs, 5.3 at Mission Gorge, CA
|
|
|
|
|
mheyman
Nov 27, 2004, 2:48 PM
Post #71 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 607
|
1. Suprise/Wine Colour 5.4 Mt Minsi Delaware Water Gap
2. Triumverate 5.4 Mt Tammany Delaware Water Gap
Still the only decent photo I have of myself, from the classic spot.
3. Horseman 5.5 Gunks Just did this climb for my second time last weekend. One of the nicest 5.5s anywhere. Didn't appreciate as much the first time.
|
|
|
|
|
rocks4jules
Nov 27, 2004, 5:03 PM
Post #72 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 287
|
My first sport lead was on a new bolted route, which they named as a 5.9. Not bad for my first. Then I went downhill from there. I went to lead a 5.8, got "schetched," then I never wanted to get on the horse again. I tried a 5.7 a couple of months later, but never really desired the challenge. That was well over a year ago. Now, I have gone climbing at J-tree, climbed with friends at Ingalls Peak (a three pitch), and I am now into Alpine and ice climbing class in February. I think my fears have now mellowed somewhat, and I also found that the company I was keeping didn't help. The lesson here is to trust the ones you climb with, and never give up. My 2 cents worth. Thanks . . . :P
Jules
|
|
|
|
|
girlclimb
Nov 27, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #73 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2003
Posts: 197
|
first sport lead was master piece a 5.10a at rumney, nh. havn't lead quite yet on trad although i did get to do a mock lead on they died laughing at cathedral wich went awesome... thats my goal for next season.
~k
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Nov 27, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #74 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
sport: some unknown 5.7 at rumney (the beginning of the addiction hehe mmm rumney)
trad: Pete 5.4 at Pawtuckaway
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Nov 27, 2004, 5:28 PM
Post #75 of 122
(8529 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
hmmm....in this thread I noticed the same theme. In sport you generally remember the difficulty grade first and not the route name but in trad you almost always remember the route name. I think that goes with the same theme as other trad vs. sport conversations where sport climbing is really about the difficulty rating and trad is about the mental toughness and character of the route. And so you tend to remember the difficulty rating and crux of the sport climb and you remember the name of the trad route and scariest part of it.
|
|
|
|
|
thedesertnomad
Nov 27, 2004, 6:30 PM
Post #76 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2003
Posts: 216
|
My first climb ever was Hounds of Baskerville (set up TR) 5.7 @ The Gunks
the following week led trad 5.4 (Gelsa)
Same day led trad 5.3 Yum Yum Yab Yum & Layback 5.5 (Gunks)
Following week 5.8's (Broken Sling, Mainline, Disney Land, A Farewell to Arms, Fat Stick) all Gunks
First Sport lead - some random 5.8 (Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT) 3 years later
|
|
|
|
|
calvin1564
Nov 27, 2004, 6:32 PM
Post #77 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2004
Posts: 6
|
Sport: The Trough, 5.4 (5.5?) at Lake Perris, CA. Stupid move! Was TopRoping, and following friends on 5.8s earlier, and had been for some time. (More than 1 year, going out monthly). Friends encouraged me to do my first lead. All assumed I'd followed up the Trough before. Hadn't. Too stupid to know better. Slick, and no fun. First ever lead was an onsight? DUH! NOTE TO SELF: if introing a friend to leading, make sure they've followed or TR'd the route FIRST!
Trad: (Just recently moving into this) Scaramouch, 5.2 at Indian Cove Joshua Tree. Also onsight, but this time friends KNEW it. Conversation went something like this: "For crying out loud, you just followed us up a 5.10b pulling gear, led a 5.10a sport, both clean. I think you can lead a 5.2. You just need to get over this fear of trad and do it." Thanks guys, you were right.
|
|
|
|
|
sgt_squatlow
Nov 27, 2004, 6:53 PM
Post #78 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2004
Posts: 21
|
my first lead was a 5.10a with i think 6-8 bolts, i had been climbing for less than a week. it was fun
|
|
|
|
|
brad84
Nov 27, 2004, 8:37 PM
Post #79 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2004
Posts: 149
|
in theory i was a great climber, and im still alive so, maybe...
my first lead was moonlight at the gunks.
it was my first time outside.
you see, i learned from a book.
i dont recommend this method for noobs, you could kill yourself real easy. you should probably get real live instruction.
be safe kids
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 27, 2004, 9:40 PM
Post #80 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
I started leading trad, after I had done TRing for a while. I had only cleaned maybe two leads at the time, and never done a multi-pitch climb. Anyway, it was a short clim called Blue Route 5.4, at Crow Hill, MA.
A year later, my first sport lead was some climb I don't remember at Rumney. My first aid lead was Jane, also at Crow Hill, MA.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
kreate
Nov 27, 2004, 11:08 PM
Post #81 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2004
Posts: 67
|
my first lead was "please dont feed the triceratops" a 5.7 at the Red. my belayer had never belayed before EVER. Sketchy stuff if you ask me. i have wised up a tad more.
|
|
|
|
|
grinspoon
Nov 27, 2004, 11:31 PM
Post #82 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 328
|
Kreate wrote In reply to: my first lead was "please dont feed the triceratops" a 5.7 at the Red. my belayer had never belayed before EVER. Sketchy stuff if you ask me. i have wised up a tad more.
Same here. My first and second trad lead I was belayed by somebody who had never belayed before. The first lead was a 5.3, after that I thought I should have no problem leading the 5.9+ fingercrack to the right..yeah..should be no problem...I climb 9s at the gym all the time. Ahahahha, how stupid I was. I ended up taking a 15ft+ whipper. I didn't see my belayer had stepped way back from the wall to sit on a log. He went for a ride, but managed to hold on. I stopped 4ft off the ground :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
bustinmins
Nov 28, 2004, 12:06 AM
Post #83 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 507
|
My first lead was a super simple 5.4 called Gumby Cat on the Catslab in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. A 50' route that was a great starter. My first trad lead was West Crack on the Whale's Tail in Eldorado Canyon, CO. Truly a great climb and hardly a 5.2. Mind you, my climbs were easy but this was about 4 months and three climbs after my first outdoor top rope experience on Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon, CO. That was March/April of 2003. First sport lead, 6/03 and first trad lead was 8/03. Life is good.
The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun! Lowe
JD
|
|
|
|
|
mheyman
Nov 28, 2004, 12:29 AM
Post #84 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 607
|
In reply to: in theory i was a great climber, and im still alive so, maybe... my first lead was moonlight at the gunks. it was my first time outside. you see, i learned from a book.
Moonlight has a couple of scary moves for most peoples first time outside -- let alone leading.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 29, 2004, 5:53 AM
Post #85 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 29, 2004, 5:53 AM
Post #86 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 29, 2004, 5:55 AM
Post #87 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 29, 2004, 5:57 AM
Post #88 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Nov 29, 2004, 6:00 AM
Post #89 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Nov 29, 2004, 5:32 PM
Post #90 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
[quote="blueeyedclimber"]There's a whole lotta sprayin' going on here! I find it hard to believe that people's first leads were 10' and 11's, but whatever.In reply to: I'd tend to agree, but in this day and age I can see it happening. The introduction of the gym climber and bouldering could develop a great climber that avoided sport and trad for awhile. Having experience under their belt and leading a 5.11 as their first lead is not unheard of. Further, if you worked a route excessively on TR before your first lead then I would understand. The first route I climbed was a 10 on TR with a very low crux. I pulled through the crux and needed a good yank to make the chains. However, I am a bit of an anomolie being that I have been climbing in caves since I was 12, I just never took it outdoors on a dynamic rope. Come to think of it, I think my first lead was on Breakfast Flake 5.7 at Last Chance Canyon. My early days are a bit fuzzy at times. Oh well, I still see ratings as a reference and not a firm classification, and the numbers are there to keep me off climbs that are harder than they look and that I should aviod till more experience is realized.
|
|
|
|
|
climbersoze
Nov 29, 2004, 5:39 PM
Post #91 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 1142
|
First sport: One of the colored routes (I think red) on Mt. Yonah, GA
First trad: First pitch of Sundial Crack, Looking Glass, NC (scared the piss out of myself)
|
|
|
|
|
abouttopeel
Nov 29, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #92 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2004
Posts: 190
|
First Sport: 5 Gallon Buckets at Smith Rock (5.8)
First Trad: Summer 2005!
|
|
|
|
|
jeffstephan
Nov 29, 2004, 6:48 PM
Post #93 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2003
Posts: 183
|
In reply to: Trad: Edward's Crack at Vedauwoo (5.7) --J
Giddy-up! Ditto on trad and sport was on the clamshell (5.7 I think) on the same day.
|
|
|
|
|
robdotcalm
Dec 1, 2004, 6:41 PM
Post #94 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
|
I did my first traditional lead in 1973, long before the terms “trad”, “redpoint”, etc. existed. It was almost my last lead. I was in Berkeley (California) in the spring of 1973 on sabbatical. I saw an announcement that the Sierra Club was holding a practice climbing session at a local park. I attended. As I recall, some topropes were set up. At the end of the session, we were told there would be a climbing trip to Lover’s Leap the following weekend and that having attended this session we were eligible. In those days, there was no campground at Lover’s Leap and no guidebooks. I signed up for the trip.
We drove to Lover’s Leap on Friday night. After breakfast on Saturday, our leader, Willy, told us that we would be doing a route that had recently had a first ascent. As I looked up from the ground, the route appeared very vertical as it followed a somewhat meandering dihedral corner for a long ways before the angle eased over. Willy said that it was 3 pitches along the vertical section and then an easy exit on the low angle top section.
Willy, was 57, which at that time seemed a bit old to me, about 5’7”, which was OK, but weighed about 200 lb., which was not OK. We would be a party of four (which I now realize was not OK). Besides myself, a fortyish mathematician, there were two young graduate students. I felt relieved as soon as I saw Willy start climbing, since, despite his bulk, he move gracefully and securely up the rock. Except for Willy, we were all wearing hiking boots. I found the climbing troubling at first but the moves were repetitious, and I got into the swing of it near the end of the pitch. It was a warm day but as heat never seems to bother me I felt comfortable. Also, from regular running and weight lifting I kept in good shape—a thing relatively few people did in those days. The next pitch went smoothly for me. Given that there were four of us, the climbing went slowly. We belayed on a ledge. It appeared that there were about 40 feet remaining of the vertical section before the angle eased over, and, as we all assumed would provide an easy exit.
At this point, Willy announced that he was too tired to continue leading, and that since I was the only one who seemed to be holding up OK, I should lead the last pitch. I protested that I had never led anything. He said there was only about 40 feet of the corner left, that it was climbing I wouldn’t have any trouble with, and then the angle eased and that was it. Looking around at my three exhausted partners, I agreed. The climbing up the corner was easy and before I realized it, I was just below where the angle eased over. Looking up I panicked. The upper section looked as smooth as a billiard ball. And then I realized that I hadn’t placed any protection on the lower crack. I screamed at Willy that I couldn’t complete the pitch since the rock above was a smooth as a billiard ball. He tried to convince me to go on, but I refused. Somehow, I managed to climb back down to the ledge without any protection.
Willy then announced that we would have to rappel. I think it was two raps. It’s the last one that I still remember. We were on a little ledge, and Willy pounded in a piton. The three of us were appalled that was only gear to be holding the ropes. “No problem,” said Willy, “I’ll go first since I’m the heaviest. That will test the system.” He said if it failed somebody would eventually rescue us. It held.
Later in Berkeley, I might a fellow who knew something about climbing and had a magazine showing the route. The crux (5.7) was where I had backed off.
Seventeen years later in May 1990, I returned to Lover’s Leap. I had to figure out which route it was since I had forgotten the name. Using John Harlin’s “West Coast Rock Climbs” I decided it was The Bookmark. It was now very easy for me to lead to the upper section where the angle eased over. Yes, the billiard ball face was still there. Still no way I would lead that. It looked like 5.9 slab and no protection. But on the left of the slab was an offwidth. I guess I figured when I was first there that the offwidth was unclimbable. It went at 5.7. I had certainly made the correct decision in backing off years earlier. No way I could have climbed the slab. Later that summer I had trouble on 5.4 slab at Vedauwoo (where I participated in what might be considered my first ‘real’ lead).
It was very emotional and satisfying to finish the climb after 17 years.
Cheers,
RobKelman.calm
30 November 2004 22:16 MST (-6 UMT)
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Dec 1, 2004, 7:30 PM
Post #95 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: It was very emotional and satisfying to finish the climb after 17 years.
What sort of pro were you carrying on that first lead attempt?
|
|
|
|
|
robdotcalm
Dec 1, 2004, 9:16 PM
Post #96 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
|
«What sort of pro were you carrying on that first lead attempt? »
I really don't remember. My guess it was hexes and some small slung nuts from the hardware store. Of course, Willy had some pitons. As I recall, the only one he used was for the rappel.
cheers, rob.calm
|
|
|
|
|
sarcastico
Dec 1, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #97 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2004
Posts: 5
|
My first trad lead was also the first pitch of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald, NC, last Saturday. I've lead a little sport at Crowder's in NC but I'm not really interested in sport climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
olejeff
Dec 2, 2004, 6:51 AM
Post #98 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
|
Desertnomad, wow, that's pretty ambitious...the third week of your climbing career...you were leading 5.8 trad in the Gunks? Impressive.
|
|
|
|
|
yamama
Dec 2, 2004, 8:06 AM
Post #99 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
|
The first lead i ever did was at Jamestown crags or East Cherokee crag. It was "Flashflood" a 5.9, near Batesville Arkansas.
|
|
|
|
|
crackrn
Dec 8, 2004, 5:29 AM
Post #100 of 122
(7996 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 282
|
Oy. Kinda embarrassed to admit how easy my first lead was but it was mine and I'm proud of it. It was a 5.3 at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles at Big Bear, CA; Fever Pitch. I was having an absolutely horrible day, was sketched out on everything and was falling off all over the place. I had to have ONE accomplishment that day so I did this climb that wasn't much more than a steep scramble. I threaded the anchor and rapelled down (first for that too) and the day became not a total loss.
|
|
|
|
|
gremlin
Dec 8, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #101 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2004
Posts: 267
|
Going to Stone Mountain this weekend, hopefully get my first trad lead there, probably on the Arch. Not sure I'm up to No Alternative yet.
|
|
|
|
|
tradboulderer
Dec 8, 2004, 8:03 PM
Post #102 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2
|
Trad: Betty (5.2) in the Gunks. I placed gear every two feet for practice. The next lead I did that day was the 2nd pitch of Frog's Head 5.5+. What a rush! It was actually vertical and exposed. That was also my first multi-pitch. It was a life altering experience.
Sport: don't remember my first sport lead, probably just some Rumney 5.7. It was after my trad lead so it was no big deal. But I remember my first whip! Wiamea, baby! It was only about 6 or 8 feet, but it was exciting.
|
|
|
|
|
crotch
Dec 8, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #103 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
|
My first lead was one of the cracks around the corner from Fairwell To Arms at Cragmont in Berkeley. I don't know if it has a name. Anyway, it's an easy 30-foot crack to a bolted anchor.
I used to go to Cragmont between classes and toprope solo the climbs. My first time trying this on the steep route to the right of Fairwell To Arms, I fell off near the top and was left hanging in space by my Ropeman ascender and backup prussic. I spent a good 15 minutes flopping around like a fish on a boat deck trying all sorts of swinging and body-tension shenanigans to get back to the rock. So much for the brute force approach. Perhaps a more elegant solution was available.
Of course, there were some other people there watching the whole thing, but I was too proud to ask for help. I got myself into the mess and I was going to get myself out of it too.
I tried to rig a rappel, but had no idea how to unweight the ropeman. Despite having read Freedom of the Hills cover to cover in at least 3 languages, it didn't occur to me to use the ropeman and prussic to ascend to the top of the cliff. A half-hour later after various permutations of the Garda Knot, Bachmann - you name it - I derived a way to get my weight off the ropeman so that I could rappel.
Having impressed everyone at the crag with my self-rescue prowess, I considered my work done and packed up and left. Thankfully, I didn't remember any of the people who were there, so I've was spared the embarassment of seeing them again on future visits.
|
|
|
|
|
elgecko
Dec 8, 2004, 9:39 PM
Post #104 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 52
|
Me too!
Bolted: The Trough, Big Rock, CA
Trad: Right On, Joshua Tree, CA
|
|
|
|
|
ron_burgandy
Dec 8, 2004, 9:55 PM
Post #105 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 186
|
my first lead was a 4 bolt 5.8( thats my guess now- as i have done it many times since then) at Exit 38 it is unnamed and unrated in all of the books that i have seen
|
|
|
|
|
saskrock
Dec 9, 2004, 6:18 AM
Post #106 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 67
|
First lead on bolts was: 11b in Krabi, Thailand
As for Trad I am considering learning this summer but was wondering if I red point 12's and could easily solo 10's is there a problem with staring here?
|
|
|
|
|
fire_or_retire
Dec 9, 2004, 7:04 AM
Post #107 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 71
|
First Sport-Some 5.9 scary slab at Hartman's Rocks near Gunnison.
First Trad- 30 seconds over Potash Moab. I think it is 5.8. Not only was it my first time placing gear but I was a sport climber at the time climbing my first desert crack. I fell in the middle of a lie back on the first 10 feet but my stopper held and I struggled upward. When I finally got to the chains and lowered off my buddy walked over and said "nice job Chris I finished 3 beers while you were climbing." oh memories
|
|
|
|
|
neutralcypruss
Dec 9, 2004, 12:34 PM
Post #108 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 22, 2003
Posts: 74
|
:twisted: my first sport lead was a 5.9 and my first trad lead was 5.8 but had a tr back up then i lead 5.5 :twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
omeier
Dec 14, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #109 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2004
Posts: 60
|
My first sport lead was a 5.6 called Turtle Piss on Y-Crack boulder at Pinnacle peak. As for my first trad lead, that was at Castle Rock SP by Santa Cruz, a little different from Arizona, nice and mossy.
|
|
|
|
|
g
Deleted
Dec 14, 2004, 2:33 AM
Post #110 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
My first sport lead was a route on the right side of the TR/instruction wall at Sylvan Lake, SD (I even have a picture of that somewhere).
First trad lead was the first pitch of New Wave at Devils Tower.
|
|
|
|
|
lazyjammin
Dec 14, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #111 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
|
First sport lead: some .10a with two bolts what shouldve been a stick clip at the first and anchors about thirty five feet up
First trad lead: 4th pitch 5.9 in the Sierras (I actually forget the name of the place)
|
|
|
|
|
yofukinsemite
Dec 14, 2004, 3:10 AM
Post #112 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 11
|
My first lead was at the Fontucky Crag(fontana ca) ....fukin choss pile... i was pretty lit which can be pretty bad for my climbing... anywho.. sweet hand cracks at the start of the pitch but we couldnt see much above...god wes stupid! so i get up to the crux of the pitch after not placing for about 20 feet or so... the scariest 5.7 bulgy, slabby crux ever! holds where breakin like no other! i was thinkin to myself what the hell did we get ourselves into? so after debating the crux for about 10 minutes...which there was no option of retreat anyway....i got out of my head and finally went for it...it was fukin cake but really exposed....gotta get out of the head...thats whats its all about! but yeah....it was maaaad sketch....learned a good lesson...
Sincerely
yofukin dumbass
|
|
|
|
|
forkliftdaddy
Dec 14, 2004, 7:07 PM
Post #113 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
|
first lead -- mild mannered secretary, bolted 5.7, pilot mountain
first gear lead -- pee break, 5.6, pilot mountain
|
|
|
|
|
jerseyclimber
Dec 14, 2004, 7:40 PM
Post #114 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2004
Posts: 38
|
Trad- Practice Climb 5.2 Ralph Stover State Park
Sport-Hoot 5.8 Bishop
|
|
|
|
|
send513
Dec 14, 2004, 8:43 PM
Post #115 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2002
Posts: 103
|
no freaking idea for sport...
for gear it was Finger Locks or Ceder Box (5.4) and then Center Earth (5.7).
first sport fall... 11a, Delayed Stress Syndrome the DC Memorial Bolder, WV (its not very tall and I ended up looking at my belayer, kind of scary in retrospect).
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Dec 16, 2004, 9:12 AM
Post #116 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
Crepes Corner (5.7 trad), Pie Shop. Lake Tahoe, Ca.
With my mentor Ryan Shreve, RIP bro.
|
|
|
|
|
dew4theq
Dec 16, 2004, 1:40 PM
Post #117 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 27
|
My first sport lead was a 5.8 at Sexwall.
My first trad lead was a 5.9 called "Blue Rose" at Ilchester, MD.
|
|
|
|
|
alex234
Jan 4, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #118 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2004
Posts: 89
|
Sport: 5.9 somewhere in western mass
Trad: 5.4 First Crack at Pinnicle Rock In CT
|
|
|
|
|
onbelay_osu
Jan 5, 2005, 4:43 PM
Post #119 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
Sport lead: Taco Time 5.7 Witchitas
Trad lead: Mild and Wild 5.7 Wtichitas
|
|
|
|
|
onbelay007
Jan 9, 2005, 5:47 AM
Post #120 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 107
|
Gosh, my first lead was some 5.4 at Eldo (all nut and hexes because that's all that we had). I've never done a sport climb but damn, can you remember what it felt like to do your first lead climb? My first outdoor climb happened to be a lead climb for me. My first real challenging lead was a 5.6 at Devil's Lake called Brinton's crack. It is only a 5.6 but I think it's rather stout (even now).
Wow, my first experience leading will be one I will never forget. One of the greatest days of my life. So much emotion. For those who haven't lead, go for it and you will understand.
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
ozgirl
Jan 10, 2005, 11:05 AM
Post #121 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2002
Posts: 37
|
First trad lead was on the back wall of Bushranger's Bluff at Arapiles, VIC. I don't remember how hard it was cos the sun heated up my shoes so much they tightened an extra few sizes and nearly singed my toes off.
My first sport lead was a much nicer affairr - gritty Blue Mountains sandstone, and in the shade. A pleasant 16. It's crazy how much weather influences your climbing!
|
|
|
|
|
aztec6561
Jan 10, 2005, 11:16 AM
Post #122 of 122
(8275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 34
|
First lead was some scrappy, slabby, and filthy 5.3 in the Delaware River Gap
|
|
|
|
|
|
