|
kriso9tails
Nov 22, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #26 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
In reply to: first climb was my first lead...5.8 Castle Anthrax...
"Oh, wicked, wicked Zoot. Oh, she is a naughty person and she must pay the penalty, and here in Castle Anthrax, we have but one punishment for setting alight the grail-shaped beacon: you must tie her down on a bed and spank her."
Hmmm... first sport rowt was wide load, 5.9 at Mount Nemo, and it felt hard and ugly, but I sent it clean. Even after getting much stronger and onsighting things many grades higher I came back and still floundered a bit. Ugly, ugly route.
I don't remember what my first trad lead was, but I remember that it was a ledgey choss pile that I probably didn't really need to protect.
My latest trad climb was also one of my first (of not that many). Front of the Pinnacle 5.5 (I think) at Bon Echo. Beautiful climb.
|
|
|
|
|
grinspoon
Nov 22, 2004, 3:30 AM
Post #27 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 328
|
Sport: Springer 10b @ NRG, Kaymoor
Trad: Jugs of Beer 5.3 @ Beer Walls, Dacks
neuroshock wrote In reply to: Sport: Tourist Trap (5.9), Torrent Falls, Red River Gorge |
|
|
|
|
grinspoon
Nov 22, 2004, 3:36 AM
Post #28 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 328
|
Kriso9tails wrote: In reply to: Hmmm... first sport rowt was wide load, 5.9 at Mount Nemo, and it felt hard and ugly |
|
|
|
|
gamehendge
Nov 22, 2004, 3:55 AM
Post #29 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
|
A 5.10b @ Powerwall in Malibu Creek State Park. A real fun and juggy route. After TR'ing 4 times though.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Nov 22, 2004, 5:41 AM
Post #31 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
Sport: Some 5.5 in Santa Barbara (San Ysidro area) with a 5.9 variation so I'd actually have pro. It was fairly impromptu on my part, and it was a bad scene. Spinning, rusty leeper hangers and the American Death Triangle.
Trad: First actual ascent, but with hangdogging: P-Crack, 5.8+, two pitches. San Luis Obispo Clean: Swallow Crack, 5.6 The finish was exciting.
Aid: Churchbowl Tree (C1)
|
|
|
|
|
abbysomebody
Nov 22, 2004, 5:48 AM
Post #32 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2004
Posts: 46
|
sport: high seas, 5.7, owens river gorge
trad: west crack, 5.9, tuolumne, led all pitches, possibly the biggest rush of my lfe
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 22, 2004, 6:10 AM
Post #33 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
My first lead ever was a trad multi-pitch in the Gunks, although it was not too hard. The route is called "Gray Face" at Skytop. Sadly, Skytop is now closed to climbing.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
verticalcrag
Nov 22, 2004, 6:27 AM
Post #34 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2004
Posts: 82
|
First sport route was Misty at Sandrock in Alabama..........rated 10c/d............
Still waitin for my first trad............so enough.
|
|
|
|
|
wiscoclimbiner
Nov 22, 2004, 6:47 AM
Post #35 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 16, 2004
Posts: 76
|
first sport 10b micro mutz on granddads
first trad an 8 at necedah
|
|
|
|
|
hopper
Nov 22, 2004, 6:49 AM
Post #36 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2003
Posts: 53
|
First (and only) leads:
"Sport": pre-placed trad gear on an unnamed 5.4 in the gunks, about a month ago
Trad: Pitches 2 and 3 of Chapel Pond slab
Can't wait for more
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Nov 22, 2004, 7:51 AM
Post #37 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
In reply to: first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily |
|
|
|
|
karlbaba
Nov 22, 2004, 8:46 AM
Post #38 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
|
First Trad lead was in High School in 1976. It was actually a 120 foot first ascent on a crag that had never been climbed before. Probably about 5.7. I didn't really know what I was doing. Unfortunately, the pitch ended on this ledge and I was a poor high school student and didn't want to leave #11 hex to rap off, so I put a rock into a crack as a chockstone and slung it to rap off it. I gave it a good yank and it broke in half, as it was only sandstone. That convinced me and I left my hex.
Didn't lead much, or climb too much until I moved to Yosemite in December 1979 and started REAL climbing. First lead there was Bishop's terrace. Then wandered over behind the Ahwahnee and saw Serenity Crack. I didn't know how hard it was or even what it was, but it didn't look high angle so I lead it anyway with just nuts. Turned out it was 5.9 and now has been uprated to 5.10. My calves were burning after that. Then lead the first pitch of Maxines after that, 10a. So my first 5.8, 5.9 and 5.10 leads were on the same day
Peace
karl
|
|
|
|
|
mcolombo
Nov 22, 2004, 8:53 AM
Post #39 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 40
|
The Owl at Mission Gorge. 5.6
a week later repeated rope solo.
about 1 year later first sport lead at Otay
|
|
|
|
|
dgkula
Nov 22, 2004, 11:48 AM
Post #40 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 73
|
Sport: Snakeskin Slab, 5.8, Rumney, NH
Trad: Holderness Corner, 5.8, Rumney, NH
|
|
|
|
|
shock
Nov 22, 2004, 11:50 AM
Post #41 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 103
|
First Trad lead: Paradise Lost- vdiff(5.4) in Dalkey Quarry Dublin.
Never done any sport(yet).
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Nov 22, 2004, 12:50 PM
Post #42 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
1st trad lead, Double Overhang, 5.6, Quincy Quarries, 12/03. I've only led trad.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Nov 22, 2004, 1:52 PM
Post #43 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: sport lead, pizuto 5.9+ at the promised land in Prescott, AZ. first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily). Most of my firsts were at my home crag. Bobby
Whoa! Anybody got a napkin? :P
|
|
|
|
|
chronicle
Nov 22, 2004, 2:47 PM
Post #44 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 664
|
Trad: Panorama Pines (5.3) at DWG. Recently climbed again to introduce my fiance to trad climbing.
Sport: None yet.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Nov 22, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #45 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
First indoor lead - You can climb indoors????
First sport lead - Doc's Dangle at Dead Cholla Wall, Taos NM - 5.10 in the snow on the last day of ski season :)
First trad lead - The Dihedrial at Narrows, Wichita Mnts OK - 5.6 I watched some buddies lead it first then grabbed the rack and setup a perfect line compared to their zip job, of coarse my second lead was way over geared.
|
|
|
|
|
climboard
Nov 22, 2004, 3:22 PM
Post #46 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
|
My first trad lead was Ecstasy Junior 5.4 at Seneca Rocks and I've been hooked ever since.
My first sport lead attempt was some 5.12 at the NRG that "didn't look too bad" from the ground. Well, one hour and twenty feet later I slinked off and completed my first sport lead, Flight of the Gumby (5.9), quite appropriate considering my earlier foolishness.
|
|
|
|
|
holmeslovesguinness
Nov 22, 2004, 3:33 PM
Post #47 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
|
First sport lead - A 5.10 (on Dead Cat's wall) at Reimer's Ranch, TX
First trad lead - Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) at Lover's Leap, CA.
|
|
|
|
|
toddtar
Nov 22, 2004, 4:15 PM
Post #48 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2004
Posts: 75
|
Trad = Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald 5.7
|
|
|
|
|
maxdacat
Nov 22, 2004, 4:21 PM
Post #49 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2004
Posts: 142
|
100 ft Slab at Narrowneck in the Blue Mountains.
The name says it all and i think it's a grade 12 or about 5.6....didn't worry about toproping as i'd spent a good 6 months getting solid at seconding. That was all gear but i don't really recall a first sport climb as most climbs in Australia have at least a couple of bolts anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
tbenson
Nov 26, 2004, 5:17 PM
Post #50 of 122
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2004
Posts: 10
|
First "pseudo" sport: Sonnenris (5.7) is in the Frankenjura, Germany. I call it a "pseudo" sport because it was like 70 feet long and had 3 sketchy eyebolts!
First sport: Espresso (10d) @ Rumney. Awesome.
First Trad: Frog's Head (5.5 / 5.6) @ the Gunks. I love the Gunks, I'm glad I live here.
My second lead is kind of funny because it was the first pitch of "Kansas City". I tell people this and they're like "WOW!!! Kansas City is 5.12!!!" I have to tell them that the first pitch is only 5.4! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
|
