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soulclimber11


Nov 30, 2004, 8:19 AM
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Fast and Light
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What is Light and Fast considered? For Example a Winter ascent of Mt.Whitney via the Mtn'rs Route my pack consists of:

1 sleeping pad (Cascade Designs)
Snow shoes(approach)
Crampons (Grivel g12)
Shovel (aluminum)
Trekking Poles (rei summit)
Ice Axe (BD Raven)
Marmot Colour Sleeping Bag
1 32 oz Nalgene bottle
1 OR Nalgene Bottle Insulator
Kelty Ledge tent (4lbs 11oz)
MSR Whisperlite stove w/ Heat Shield and Windshield
1 16oz fuel bottle
1 8oz plastic nalgene fuel holder
4 freeze dried food packs (2 servings per pack)
3 cup o noodles
2 small packs instant mashed potatoes
2 pairs mountaineering socks
2 pair liners
1 rei mts lightweight thermal
1 rei mts midweight thermal
1 lightweight next to skin poly tights
1 pair 100 wt fleece pants
1 pair down filled underpants
North Face summit series Soft Shell jacket
North Face summit series Gore Tex Parka
North Face Down Filled Nuptse Jacket
1 OR fleece windstopper peruvian beanie
1 neck gaiter
1 OR fleece Balaclava
1 pair MH Altitude Shell Gloves
1 pair OR overmitt shells
1 Pair Fleece Liners
1 pair glacier glasses
1 pair goggles
1 First Aid Kit
I stuff it all into my Marmot Eiger 36 BackPack 2400 cu.

Ok If I didn't bore you with my List can anyone tell me if I am off on any of what I am bringing...I am sure someone will tell me to sh@#can my tent and trade it in for a Bivy..Bivy sacs are awesome for overnight but in case I got holed up in a storm I would feel better in my lil tent.Other than that let it rip and tell me what you pack.


icarus_burned


Nov 30, 2004, 11:50 AM
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lose the snow shoes and trek poles, theyre simply un neccesary, and if your gonna be really pedantic about weight dont take the glasses just the goggles


j_dub


Nov 30, 2004, 1:27 PM
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Is that a pretty good packing list for, say, an 18,000ft peak, or would I need to add more (warmer) gear?

Also, how warm is your colour sleeping bag?
Thanks!


Partner tradman


Nov 30, 2004, 1:43 PM
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How cold does it get on Whitney?


ropeburn


Nov 30, 2004, 1:59 PM
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1 pair down filled underpants

Huh?


pepsbandit


Nov 30, 2004, 2:07 PM
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I'd switch to aluminum crampons and ice-axe, it'll feel better in the
long run. But then again I don't know shite!!!


anykineclimb


Nov 30, 2004, 2:14 PM
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1 sleeping pad (Cascade Designs) 3/4 length
Snow shoes(approach) no
Crampons (Grivel g12)
Shovel (aluminum)can you use your axe as the handle? Trekking Poles (rei summit)no
Ice Axe (BD Raven)
Marmot Colour Sleeping Bag
1 32 oz Nalgene bottle
1 OR Nalgene Bottle Insulator
Kelty Ledge tent (4lbs 11oz)
MSR Whisperlite stove w/ Heat Shield and Windshield
1 16oz fuel bottle need this much fuel?
1 8oz plastic nalgene bottle fuel holder
Consider GU for meals
4 freeze dried food packs (2 servings per pack)
3 cup o noodles
2 small packs instant mashed potatoes
Rethink all this clothes, especially the down thong, err underpants
2 pairs mountaineering socks
2 pair liners
1 rei mts lightweight thermal
1 rei mts midweight thermal
1 lightweight next to skin poly tights
1 pair 100 wt fleece pants
1 pair down filled underpants
North Face summit series Soft Shell jacket
North Face summit series Gore Tex Parka
North Face Down Filled Nuptse Jacket

1 OR fleece windstopper peruvian beanie
1 neck gaiter
1 OR fleece Balaclava

1 pair MH Altitude Shell Gloves
1 pair OR overmitt shells
1 Pair Fleece Liners
One or the other
1 pair glacier glasses
1 pair goggles

1 First Aid Kit
Is this all gonna fit in this thing?
I stuff it all into my Marmot Eiger 36 BackPack 2400 cu.


slhappy


Nov 30, 2004, 3:22 PM
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how many days you going for?
also you might want boots and a helmet...


adnix


Nov 30, 2004, 4:06 PM
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In reply to:
how many days you going for?
also you might want boots and a helmet...
Light and fast should be one long push. Usually. Loretan did Everest in a single push in 31 hours so Whitney shouldn't take any longer.


adnix


Nov 30, 2004, 4:19 PM
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If really light and fast - on the route you'll need (low technical difficulty):

1 sleeping pad (Cascade Designs)
Crampons (Grivel g12)
Ice Axe (BD Raven)
1 32 oz Nalgene bottle
1 OR Nalgene Bottle Insulator
Bivy pouch (you shouldn't sleep anyway, but just in case)
MSR Whisperlite stove w/ Heat Shield and Windshield (hot brews are nice)
1 small fuel bottle

some energy bars and/or drink

the clothes you have on will be all needed. extra down jacket & pants will be sufficient for short bivy. no need for sleeping pouch. if the weather forecast seems bad you should stay in base camp.


slhappy


Nov 30, 2004, 5:20 PM
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good post adnix. that is precisely what fast and light is...go during a good weather window and keep moving until your back at base camp.


davidji


Nov 30, 2004, 5:53 PM
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In reply to:
Is this all gonna fit in this thing?
I stuff it all into my Marmot Eiger 36 BackPack 2400 cu.
That was my thought too. I can't imagine all that stuff fitting into a 36L pack.


icarus_burned


Nov 30, 2004, 6:12 PM
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doesnt all have to go inside, its near the season so why not hang things on your pack like a big christmas tree


soulclimber11


Nov 30, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Tradman asked what the temp is on Whitney >Depends on the elevation and wind chill varies from 30's to -15. Anyone correct me if I am wrong.


soulclimber11


Nov 30, 2004, 7:19 PM
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In reply to:
Is that a pretty good packing list for, say, an 18,000ft peak, or would I need to add more (warmer) gear?

Also, how warm is your colour sleeping bag?
Thanks!

The Bag is rated down to 0 but I have been in it in -10 and it still was very toasty.


soulclimber11


Nov 30, 2004, 8:02 PM
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In reply to:
how many days you going for?
also you might want boots and a helmet...

3 to 4 days, I am using the Koflach arctic exp.I am thinking of changing out the liner with the cheapsnowboards.com intuition liner for 20.00 . I have read that it is much lighter and warmer.
Also I am taking the HB Olympus helmet(red)


akicebum


Nov 30, 2004, 8:29 PM
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I don't know what your commitment level is or how fast you want to do this in, but it sounds like you have way too much food. Even if you are going to go for two days you have 8 servings of freeze dried. The mashed are awesome, and oatmeal is great in the morning. The rest you can suppliment. Save your fuel for melting water, to compliment the gels and energy bars. Think 2000-2500calories a day.

If you are going to go for more than two days then you aren't going fast, but you can still go light, but by day three you will need some real food.

As to your pack list. The trekking poles are usually worth the added weight and discomfort when stored. Think about everything you are actually going to use. A sleeping pad (3/4) A bag with bivy or tarp/space blanket, that is if you are going to spend the night. I tend to go for the single push beer by 11 trips. If I can't make it then I make sure I will be comfortable. Nothing worse than kind of sleeping because you are cold and miserable.

As for clothes, think base layer, core insulation (a fleece jacket), shell. A light balaclava is a staple for me but it is personal preference. A warm hat, extra pair of socks and if you are going with fleece gloves bring two pairs. Nothing like changing into a nice dry-warm pair of gloves.

As for fuel. well fuel=water. Water buys you time. I have never been as angry about having extra fuel as I have been when I have run out and ended up dehyrated cramping while postholeing back the car after climbing for two or three days.

Sounds like you have a fun trip in mind. I hope all goes well and you get home safe.


glockaroo


Nov 30, 2004, 10:36 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Is this all gonna fit in this thing?
I stuff it all into my Marmot Eiger 36 BackPack 2400 cu.
That was my thought too. I can't imagine all that stuff fitting into a 36L pack.

Same here. Just the sleeping bag and clothes alone would fill a 2400 cube pack. How will the rest fit?!


soulclimber11


Nov 30, 2004, 10:37 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Is this all gonna fit in this thing?
I stuff it all into my Marmot Eiger 36 BackPack 2400 cu.
That was my thought too. I can't imagine all that stuff fitting into a 36L pack.

http://www.webspawner.com/users/soulclimber11/index.html

That is where the pic of my pack is..I had a little trouble posting my pic here.


soulclimber11


Dec 1, 2004, 12:11 AM
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In reply to:
I don't know what your commitment level is or how fast you want to do this in, but it sounds like you have way too much food. Even if you are going to go for two days you have 8 servings of freeze dried. The mashed are awesome, and oatmeal is great in the morning. The rest you can suppliment. Save your fuel for melting water, to compliment the gels and energy bars. Think 2000-2500calories a day.

If you are going to go for more than two days then you aren't going fast, but you can still go light, but by day three you will need some real food.

As to your pack list. The trekking poles are usually worth the added weight and discomfort when stored. Think about everything you are actually going to use. A sleeping pad (3/4) A bag with bivy or tarp/space blanket, that is if you are going to spend the night. I tend to go for the single push beer by 11 trips. If I can't make it then I make sure I will be comfortable. Nothing worse than kind of sleeping because you are cold and miserable.

As for clothes, think base layer, core insulation (a fleece jacket), shell. A light balaclava is a staple for me but it is personal preference. A warm hat, extra pair of socks and if you are going with fleece gloves bring two pairs. Nothing like changing into a nice dry-warm pair of gloves.

As for fuel. well fuel=water. Water buys you time. I have never been as angry about having extra fuel as I have been when I have run out and ended up dehyrated cramping while postholeing back the car after climbing for two or three days.

Sounds like you have a fun trip in mind. I hope all goes well and you get home safe.

I am planning on going as long as I can with a balanced pace...I am probably going to change my sleeping pad to the zlite 3/4 length as well.
You are so correct by pointing out to bring another pair of fleece gloves. Nothing dries in that environemnt (unless it is close to your body while you are sleeping).
Thank you and everyone else for all the advice. Keep it coming. :D


megableem


Dec 1, 2004, 12:21 AM
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.


soulclimber11


Dec 1, 2004, 12:40 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
3 to 4 days

Seems like you're more concerned with trying to be light than fast.

I put on a extra day or two due to Weather.


guanoboy


Dec 1, 2004, 12:40 AM
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I agree with whoever it was above that said fast and light should be single push. I would do it w/ a daypack and keep moving. If you are going to camp you could do without a tent or bivy. I've slept plenty of winter nights just in a sleeping bag - if its 5 degrees out it sure isn't going to rain - and that dry sierra snow isn't goin to get you wet. If you want to get out of the wind, it doesn't take long to dig a snow shelter or cave.
andrew


jeremy11


Dec 1, 2004, 12:56 AM
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golite gust for a pack - bigger and lighter
dump the north face shells and down coat for ultralight versions
get a lighter sleeping bag and shelter
learn to sew your own stuff to save money on ultralight gear
thru-hiker.com is a great source for ultralight/sew your own info and gear
Jeremy


sandbag


Dec 1, 2004, 1:20 AM
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train hard with heavy weighted pack so you can hump all that gear fast, i can take a 70Lb pack up 1500ft(above 8000MSL) and 4 miles in about 1:30. if im going out for days on end, ill slow it up. And work on getting to know you, ie how much youre going to sweat and heave and wheeze before you decide to go tackle a backcountry adventure, its important to know how you react so you dont sweat, exhaust, and then freeze your wet self to death.....


dingus


Dec 1, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Leave the snow shoes and the trekking poles in the car eh? For a mid winter approach to Whitney?

I don't know fellas, the advice in this thread leaves me the impression that some of you lack familiarity with the terrain in question or the objective and accompanying hazards.

Like snow and lots of it. Some winters maybe you could walk right up the mtneers route and not even get your feet wet.

This doesn't seem to be one of those winters...

DMT


grigriese


Dec 1, 2004, 1:33 AM
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How much water are you planning on taking? I don't recall that being on your list. Are you planning on taking a water purifier or tablets or just boiling the water 20 minutes and using up your fuel?


grigriese


Dec 1, 2004, 1:44 AM
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There are a lot of very light to ultralight packs out there that will hold more than 2,400 cubic inches. Osprey's Aether 45 is pretty basic but it weighs less then two pounds and has an internal pad that can be used for a sleeping pad - not super comfy but fits the going light bill. Gregory also makes the Z Pack which is about 3 pounds holds about 3,800 cubic inches, is made with Dyneema so you won''t have to worry about it being delicate and has a really huge exterior "pouch" that is super handy for cramming crap into, plus side access zip and other doo-dads. I have both and love them both!

http://www.gregorypacks.com/prod.php?ID=50

http://www.ospreypacks.com/aether45.html


sancho


Dec 1, 2004, 2:18 AM
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In reply to:
How much water are you planning on taking? I don't recall that being on your list. Are you planning on taking a water purifier or tablets or just boiling the water 20 minutes and using up your fuel?

On this route in the winter you are not likely to find any running water, so he will be melting snow. Also, there is no reason to boil melted snow unless it is yellow snow...

Regarding the 3/4 sleeping pad - man, I hate these things! Either do it in one day or get a good sleeping pad that will insulate you, like the Exped down filled airmattress. After getting this thing, sleeping in the snow has never been better!

Your list seems to have some redundancy on mittens and gloves. Pick a good quality pair of one or the other, with a lightweight pair of gloves for camp type duties, like cooking.

Sounds like you might be fairly new to the winter travel stuff. If so, I would encourage you to err on the side of bringing too much warm stuff rather than not enough.


paulraphael


Dec 1, 2004, 2:19 AM
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This is general advice that can save your neck:

Light and Fast is always a relative term. It's always possible to go lighter and faster. It's also possible to attempt to go too light and fast for your abilities. The best way to become a light and fast climber (it's a journey, I think, not a destination--we're all learning) is gradually. Go a bit lighter and faster than you did last time, and see what works and what doesn't.

You really don't want to just run with advice from a bunch of guys who might be either 1) couch potatoes who have read Extreme Alpinism for Dummies or 2) actual elite climbers who wrote the book on extreme alpinism and eat titanium pitons with their GU. Neither group can make judgements on your actual ability. There's a very real danger of miscalculating, and ending up going Light and Slow. This can be a disaster.

The light and fast ideal is not magic; it is based not so much on high tech toys or even on leaving everything at home--it's based being willing and able to take on more commitiment. This requires from you better judgement, better fitness, better mountain sense, more willingness (in some cases) to take on risk, and more willingness (a lot of the time) to turn tail and run home.

This is all best learned at YOUR pace, whatever that may be, but it's probably not goin to be all at once, in the winter, on Mount Whitney. Why don't you just shoot for lightER, and fastER, and take it from there?


dingus


Dec 1, 2004, 2:37 AM
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Niely done paulraphael.

DMT


gymstud001


Dec 1, 2004, 2:46 AM
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forget the tent and the bivy sac. Buy yourself a bivy tent( or some people call them a bivy shelter). BD lightsabre is a good one. Its a mixture of a bivy and a tent (if you couldn't tell) not alot of room or weight, but its fully covered and has a little head room


toejam


Dec 1, 2004, 2:57 AM
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I'd agree on keeping the snowshoes and poles on the list. Also I replaced my whisperlight with a pocket rocket in my winter pack. A titanium water pot if all you are doing is melting/boiling makes for a nice weight savings too. For a sleeping pad I carry a 3/4 Thermarest and a 1/4 foam pad handy for situations requiring kneeling/sitting on rocks or snow.


cryder


Dec 1, 2004, 4:59 AM
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Great post Paulraphael.

I would like to add that so much of the light and fast logic is theory being played out in a very qualitative lab; the ever changing alpine environ. I tend to make gear & food decisions the day-of departure based on 1)Weather 2)Snow / ice conditions 3)How I am feeling and how motivated I am to take on commitment (some days I am simply not in the mood, other days the whole point is to suffer).

When in doubt figure out faster first, lighter second. I have yet to be impressed by a titanium-slung-high-grade-climbing-alpine-hot-shot who can't keep his or her schit to together long enough to get to the climb, climb the climb, and then get home from the climb in at least one piece.

There are no finish lines in climbing.

- n -


mainline


Dec 1, 2004, 5:09 AM
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If you really want to go fast, dump the snow shoes and get yourself on some AT or touring skis.


icarus_burned


Dec 1, 2004, 9:39 AM
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train hard with heavy weighted pack so you can hump all that gear fast, i can take a 70Lb pack up 1500ft(above 8000MSL) and 4 miles in about 1:30. if im going out for days on end, ill slow it up. And work on getting to know you, ie how much youre going to sweat and heave and wheeze before you decide to go tackle a backcountry adventure, its important to know how you react so you dont sweat, exhaust, and then freeze your wet self to death.....

if im reading that right was that a summit attempt in the himalayas? if so which one?


dickhurtz


Dec 1, 2004, 2:51 PM
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DOWN FILLED UNDERWEAR! I want to climb with you! :?


adnix


Dec 1, 2004, 3:39 PM
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The light and fast ideal is not magic; it is based not so much on high tech toys or even on leaving everything at home--it's based being willing and able to take on more commitiment.
Light and fast equals an epic if you make misjudgements or don't know your physical endurance. The style will not suit everyone. But that wasn't the original question. It was about what is considered light and fast.

My list was still a rather safe one for such. Some people skip bivy gear and stove.


climbrc


Dec 1, 2004, 5:10 PM
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uuhh how about:
Helmet
Headlamp
Batteries
Spoon
Matches and flint striker
topo

A great resource for food and clothing is Mark Twight's book (Extreme Alpinism)..

I've never been to Whitney, but over 3-4 days will that be "climbing" or mostly flat trekking? Above tree line or below? Does 3-4 days include weather window?

Could you ski to the base of the climb.. Ditch the skis until you return? Ski's are faster than snowshoes, don't add much weight, and WAY better than postholing for 4 days!

Cheers..


sancho


Dec 1, 2004, 10:34 PM
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Also I replaced my whisperlight with a pocket rocket in my winter pack.

A couple years ago on the route in question, trying to get up the mountaineers route in the winter I also brought my MSR pocket rocket stove. The first day it worked very poorly and the second day I couldn't even get the thing to light. Ever since, I have avoided bringing propane/butane/isobutane type stoves to winter environments. FYI, this problem occured at about 12,000 feet in the winter.

Have any of you actually had luck with these types of stoves in real cold environments?

How about 3/4 length pads on snow? Do you find that you are adequately insulated? I have always been miserable with them!

curious...


akicebum


Dec 2, 2004, 12:16 AM
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I agree with Paul. It also occured to me that if you need to ask this kind of advice on a website you may want to consider your style. There are three types of climbers that venture into the fast and light style of climbing. The under priviledged who do so out of necessity. The super honed who do so out of lack of necessity, they don't need the excess crap. Then the third and most terrifying and least successful the "I read it in a book idealists."
This is not meant to be an insult. Think about what kind of shape you and your partner are in. Think about your experience level. Then look at you objective and ask yourself why you've chosen the style you have.
Modern gear is all good for the most part. Everyone has their opinions on what is better, but what you have will probably out perform you. This is a harsh realiztion I have gained from my own equipment.
I generally either climb hard and fast in one day (sometimes that day finds itself becoming two) or I carry extra gear and go in for the long haul. The extra food, fuel, and tent may only weigh ten more pounds. The longer you are out the more time you are exposed to weather changes, injuries, and other objective hazards. It never hurts to go prepared.


sandbag


Dec 2, 2004, 12:29 AM
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In reply to:
train hard with heavy weighted pack so you can hump all that gear fast, i can take a 70Lb pack up 1500ft(above 8000MSL) and 4 miles in about 1:30. if im going out for days on end, ill slow it up. And work on getting to know you, ie how much youre going to sweat and heave and wheeze before you decide to go tackle a backcountry adventure, its important to know how you react so you dont sweat, exhaust, and then freeze your wet self to death.....

if im reading that right was that a summit attempt in the himalayas? if so which one?

Naye mate, 8000MSL is 8000 feet above Mean Sea Level, im not wealthy enough nor crazy enough yet to go up a big mountain, but im working on that.


kid


Dec 2, 2004, 1:18 AM
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Fast and light will focus on the single push as stated above. Good weather and knowledge of the route. The equipment listed tells me expedition style. If you are looking for fast and light skip the tent and the bivy. Your bag is going to get soaked with a tent or a bivy any way. I suggest you have a goretex bag and a vapor barrior liner. Keep pushing and moving untill you need to rest. When that occures dig a pit or create a simple shelter. The faster you move the less food, fuel and water you will need. I tend toward a bigger pack so it can double as a bivy if it gets really hectic. Cover the lower body. In the past I have substituted the sleeping bag for my belay jacket and a change of cloths for the lower body, along with a vapor barrier liner in place of the bivy. The sleeping pad can be replaced by your double ropes if a technical route is taken or your pack if not using it for a bivy. Fuel is very important don't under estimate fuel. I too made that mistake and ended up eating dry oatmeal on one trip. Water will help relieve hypohermia and altitude issues. I would choose the fuel for a warm drink and warm food over a sleeping bag and pad. Inside is warm and the outside is warm. Good luck - I hope this helps. I understand that this is not for everyone - More room for technical gear I always say. ~ Greg F. (Kid)


megableem


Dec 2, 2004, 2:21 AM
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dingus


Dec 2, 2004, 3:20 AM
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I've never been to Whitney, but over 3-4 days will that be "climbing" or mostly flat trekking? Above tree line or below?

Don't know the route. Don't know the approach.

But more than willing to recommend gear.

Where the fuck is Lord Slime when you need him most???

DMT


sandbag


Dec 2, 2004, 8:33 AM
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YOu might also consider having a second pack, hombase i call mine, its big enough to bivy in as a 3/4 bag, and my alpin rig fits entirely inside it, so its got the full expedition gear, and the quick and light alpine transformer attachment. again, being in great shape and tuned in to you is hte best thing youre going to have as an asset.


adnix


Dec 2, 2004, 11:30 AM
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Fuel is very important don't under estimate fuel. I too made that mistake and ended up eating dry oatmeal on one trip. Water will help relieve hypohermia and altitude issues. I would choose the fuel for a warm drink and warm food over a sleeping bag and pad. Inside is warm and the outside is warm.
When Loretan and Troillet did Everest in a single push (via North Face / Hornbein Couloir, 70 degrees) they skipped bivy gear and everything else. But they took a stove. Tells something.

Description of the route:
http://www.mounteverest.net/...irectAug182003.shtml

This is probably best style Everest has been done ever. On your own up there and a route with great commitment. Climbing during night when avalanche danger is smaller, resting in the sun when you don't freeze to death and a fast descent by bum sliding back to base camp. They should have gotten more credit for the deed.


punk


Dec 2, 2004, 1:19 PM
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"Fast and light"
just go solo and run all the way no need for extra clothing, food, fuel, bivi gear ,etc. Just go!!-- The idea behind light is minimal to non-gear. The idea behind fast is run don’t walk till you ready to pass-out from the pace and then push yourself some more. the record on Rainier for “Fast and light” is 5:05 Hours round trip from Paradise ya see he didn’t need to take anything with him.


sancho


Dec 2, 2004, 9:50 PM
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A couple years ago on the route in question, trying to get up the mountaineers route in the winter I also brought my MSR pocket rocket stove. The first day it worked very poorly and the second day I couldn't even get the thing to light. Ever since, I have avoided bringing propane/butane/isobutane type stoves to winter environments. FYI, this problem occured at about 12,000 feet in the winter.

Have any of you actually had luck with these types of stoves in real cold environments?

In real cold? No. But I did use one just below the summit of Whitney one January without any problem. It was relatively warm that night (10F?), but you can coax these stoves to life in colder conditions once you know a few tricks. I think they're the best choice for a lightweight Sierra winter trip.

Still curious...what were the "tricks" that you used to keep a pocket rocket working at 10'? I have had nothing but trouble with mine when snow camping...

And FYI, the whitney mountaineers route is nearly all trecking - heading up a rudimentary trail (or snow, in this case), starting at a bit over 8,000' and ending and almost 14,500 after climbing up a moderate 1,500' coulior that is super fun to glissade down. I think it is something like six miles, one way. I suppose you could call the coulior and the area after the notch "climbing" but it isn't technical. Anyway, it is a great training route and lots of fun.


cryder


Dec 2, 2004, 10:21 PM
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And FYI, the whitney mountaineers route is nearly all trecking...

If its a slog, I would just go single push. Skip the camps and go fast n light (Unless the camps are part of the fun). For example, most people in our neck of the woods consider Granite Peak a major undertaking in winter, and allow a full five days to climb. Ptthhhhbbbb. I know from experience that the whole thing can be done in less then 30 hours in winter... just skip all the crap and put the hammer down.

Chop chop.


megableem


Dec 2, 2004, 10:40 PM
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thomaskeefer


Dec 2, 2004, 10:49 PM
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I will preface this by saying that I have not done the route in winter..

Having done it in the summer, and having a bit of winter climbing experience, I would say that you are in for a slight challenge covering the Eberspacher ledge system on the approach... I guess the snow would make for a softer landing then the summer offers.

Also, it seems to me that a good plan of attack is to do the route in the summer first so that you can get a feel for it. The majority is pretty much a hike but the last 250ft after the notch to the summit are pretty steep.

Also, It seems that you should take into account for where you live. If you are planning a fast and light ascent and it is winter and you live at sea level, perhaps this is a bit ambitious?

BTW.. how are you planning to get near the trailhead.. do you know which way the road goes without the benefit of seeing it?


soulclimber11


Dec 7, 2004, 4:37 AM
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I will preface this by saying that I have not done the route in winter..

Having done it in the summer, and having a bit of winter climbing experience, I would say that you are in for a slight challenge covering the Eberspacher ledge system on the approach... I guess the snow would make for a softer landing then the summer offers.

Also, it seems to me that a good plan of attack is to do the route in the summer first so that you can get a feel for it. The majority is pretty much a hike but the last 250ft after the notch to the summit are pretty steep.

Also, It seems that you should take into account for where you live. If you are planning a fast and light ascent and it is winter and you live at sea level, perhaps this is a bit ambitious?

BTW.. how are you planning to get near the trailhead.. do you know which way the road goes without the benefit of seeing it?


Ambitous for who? You.
It seems to me this scares you.
I would be a liar if I did not fear it myself. Yes I do have a bit of fear before I go on any climb but I will never be afraid. As for the Eberspacher ledge system>Once again are you afraid that you would fall as well?
Why would I want to do it in the summer???????????????????????????????????
As far as finding the trailhead etc....
Haven't you heard of route finding in the snow?
Anyways oh yes..I am going with a fellow who has been up there 3 times in winter.(Maybe that will get your approval) :roll:


icarus_burned


Dec 7, 2004, 2:42 PM
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train hard with heavy weighted pack so you can hump all that gear fast, i can take a 70Lb pack up 1500ft(above 8000MSL) and 4 miles in about 1:30. if im going out for days on end, ill slow it up. And work on getting to know you, ie how much youre going to sweat and heave and wheeze before you decide to go tackle a backcountry adventure, its important to know how you react so you dont sweat, exhaust, and then freeze your wet self to death.....

if im reading that right was that a summit attempt in the himalayas? if so which one?

Naye mate, 8000MSL is 8000 feet above Mean Sea Level, im not wealthy enough nor crazy enough yet to go up a big mountain, but im working on that.

i see i read it as 8000 Metres above Sea Level, silly me


tiedyered


Dec 18, 2004, 12:10 AM
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And FYI, the whitney mountaineers route is nearly all trecking...

If its a slog, I would just go single push. Skip the camps and go fast n light (Unless the camps are part of the fun). For example, most people in our neck of the woods consider Granite Peak a major undertaking in winter, and allow a full five days to climb. Ptthhhhbbbb. I know from experience that the whole thing can be done in less then 30 hours in winter... just skip all the crap and put the hammer down.

Chop chop.

Most people in these neck of the woods do it it 2-3, not 5.

and most who push a single day do it in around 20 hours.


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