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arjunrattan
Feb 11, 2005, 6:04 AM
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hi all
well im hitting like v3-v4 pretty consistanty now though im finding it incredibly hard to push those numbers..cause basically i just cant seem to hang onto those tiny crimps and slopers when the wall/rock is severly overhung..
in fact thats another problem i have..i somehow find even v1/v2 juggy severly overhung( like 75-90 degrees) problems challenging...
just wanted some advice on a somewat structured training routine whhich will help me up my bouldering...ohhh and does having strong abs help on super overhangs??
cheers!
arjun
p.s. i have pretty decent tecnique..climb 5.11a/b
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kennycardiscrazy
Feb 11, 2005, 6:18 AM
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Getting through V4 can be a very tough fight. You may want to try to get a haing board which can help improve finger strength. Also working on your core strength will improve your climbing on these overhainging problems. But most importantly just keep climbing and working on more problems that seem to push your limits.
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walllizzard
Feb 11, 2005, 6:23 AM
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Well the best thing I can say, is what ever you are having problems with; make that your focus. Slopers and Overhangs are my enemy while crimpers and slab climbing is my strong point. I make it a habit to get on problems I normally wouldnt consider due to their, slopey. overhanging attributes. I have found that by doing this this will make you climb harder and improve in the areas that you are struggling with. I will mix it up with easy problems to warm up on a few good v3-v4 to get loose on and then Ill get on everything elsesharder, v5-v8. It doesnt matter if you cant make all the moves, just as long as your trying to do them, with time you will slowly be able to complete more and more moves unitl the problem is completed. While improving ones ability to climb harder grades; make sure your still having fun at it, some of the best days Ive had were just screwing around with newbies/ friends just having a great day. Well i hope that helps and well if it dont well dont know what to say, lol. Good luck improving,l be safe and most importantly have fun.
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arjunrattan
Feb 11, 2005, 6:45 AM
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lol yea that sorta helped..i mean thats what everyone says climb more problems which you dont like..lol
but yea i have lotta fun climbing..but sending somethin hard is what gives you that rush..and thats why we climb really..to feeel that adrenalin rush when we send a climb/problem which wasnt possible a week or two ago!
ohh and one more quick quesion..wat isCORE STRENGTH??? does it refer to abs strength..or like gen ability to do pull ups and stuff??
cheers!
arjun
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walllizzard
Feb 11, 2005, 6:54 AM
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Core strength is the ability to use all of your muscles, ABs, legs, back, well pretty much everything to maintain a level of overallbody strength or tension. Think of the ablity to control your swing if you try and campus a route, hanging by your arms and bring your legs and feet back up to the roof of a problem, using a heel hook to pull urself up and then fall back into a hold, maintian the tension to keep from barndooring off , or my fav using your feet to push/ pull and maintain your feet on an overhang that cannot be hell hooked or toe hooked. I hope that these examlples help with defining core strength, like the term suggest it has alot to do with your Ab's and legs but includes so many more other muscle groups working together to perform a feet of strength one or two muscle groups could never achieve on their own.
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ron_burgandy
Feb 11, 2005, 6:54 AM
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core strength is essentially being able to use all the muscles in you 'core' (aka your body, not your limbs) to link your whole body together. When you increase your core strength you are able to use the power in the muscles in say your legs and use that to help your arms out (which is VERY important when on steep overhanging routes/problems). by focusing on your core strength you can get away with doing moves that you would not normally be able to pull off with just your arm strength. But remember to not forget about trying to give your entire body a good workout, not just one 'climbing specific' group.
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arjunrattan
Feb 11, 2005, 7:59 AM
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hmmm core strength huh
thanks for the definition guys...im beginning to realise thats where my weakness lies since alot of the problems upping v4 require quite a bit of body tension and err core strength..
so the obvious quesion : how do you increase your core strength??? :? :?
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walllizzard
Feb 11, 2005, 8:49 AM
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UMM well I know ur asking for this answer, but dont take it the wrong way. CLIMB MORE and on HARDER PROBLEMS., lol. Climbing makes you stronger for climbing. I tried to give examples of moves that use core strength more than others, They can be done in a training regiment if you can get to a gym or have the proper outside setting. If there is a gym close, I'm sure they have hang boards or campus boards that can be used to help build the core strength faster , than climbing alone, however, strength only gets ya so far, working on hard problems and continuing to work on problems you can accomplish will help with technique which will inturn help you utilize your Core strength more effeciently.
Some of the best advice Ive had from good climbers is climbing isnt how fast you climb, or how strong you are, good climbers find the most effecient way to climb the rock.
Any exercise that you can do to increase your upper body strength will help, its finding other ways to intergrate movements into the routine to coerce other muscles into the mix. There are several books on training and may be of benefit to you, just do a search or start a thread. Well I hope I've helped and havnt confused you .
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arjunrattan
Feb 11, 2005, 5:24 PM
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yea all that definately helped..! thanks for the info! anyway im off to the gym to do just that..better my boudering!
so cheers then!
arjun
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wzrdgandalf
Feb 11, 2005, 5:39 PM
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to increase your core strength you might want to set aside a time everyday to do an ab workout. I usually spend 30 minutes a day on them. The abs are the only muscles in your body that you can work out hard everyday and not really hurt. I do a three set workout, each set has three different excercises. You start out doing 30 sit ups but dont come down quickly. Allow your abs to slowly release because this is very much what you have to do while climbing(keeping body tension). after thirty slow sit ups, lie on your back and pull your back off the ground and your legs off the ground, bounce your arms by your side and count to 100 or stay up as long as possible. After this you should incline your feet up on some type of wall or railing so your knees are bent. sit up with your hands on your chest and hold for 12 seconds then turn right for 12 then left 12 then center again 12 and then slowly go back down. The idea of putting your legs up is making all your weight go onto your abs. After these three exercises do them again and then again. three sets is alot and it will hurt the first few timesl, but you will see improvements quickly.
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wzrdgandalf
Feb 11, 2005, 5:40 PM
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to increase your core strength you might want to set aside a time everyday to do an ab workout. I usually spend 30 minutes a day on them. The abs are the only muscles in your body that you can work out hard everyday and not really hurt. I do a three set workout, each set has three different excercises. You start out doing 30 sit ups but dont come down quickly. Allow your abs to slowly release because this is very much what you have to do while climbing(keeping body tension). after thirty slow sit ups, lie on your back and pull your back off the ground and your legs off the ground, bounce your arms by your side and count to 100 or stay up as long as possible. After this you should incline your feet up on some type of wall or railing so your knees are bent. sit up with your hands on your chest and hold for 12 seconds then turn right for 12 then left 12 then center again 12 and then slowly go back down. The idea of putting your legs up is making all your weight go onto your abs. After these three exercises do them again and then again. three sets is alot and it will hurt the first few timesl, but you will see improvements quickly.
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wzrdgandalf
Feb 11, 2005, 5:41 PM
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to increase your core strength you might want to set aside a time everyday to do an ab workout. I usually spend 30 minutes a day on them. The abs are the only muscles in your body that you can work out hard everyday and not really hurt. I do a three set workout, each set has three different excercises. You start out doing 30 sit ups but dont come down quickly. Allow your abs to slowly release because this is very much what you have to do while climbing(keeping body tension). after thirty slow sit ups, lie on your back and pull your back off the ground and your legs off the ground, bounce your arms by your side and count to 100 or stay up as long as possible. After this you should incline your feet up on some type of wall or railing so your knees are bent. sit up with your hands on your chest and hold for 12 seconds then turn right for 12 then left 12 then center again 12 and then slowly go back down. The idea of putting your legs up is making all your weight go onto your abs. After these three exercises do them again and then again. three sets is alot and it will hurt the first few timesl, but you will see improvements quickly.
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wzrdgandalf
Feb 11, 2005, 5:43 PM
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damn why did that go through three timeż haha pretty scary. sorry guys
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mtman
Feb 11, 2005, 6:02 PM
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one way that i have found to help me improve core strength is to do some weight training focusing on core strength and endurance. this means that i do lots of abs, lower back, obliques, chest, lats. to get the endurance you want to more reps with less weight. also i have found muscle isolation, the ability to hold your body in one position wile one muscle group moves, will improve the better core you have. also mix abs and lower back exercises up so you are not just getting stronger at a specific motion but all around strength. some good exercises for core strength are sit ups, push ups, roman chairs, and v and L ups (hang from a pull up bar and lift your legs up to an L or v position trying to keep your core tight and not swing) and of course pull up
good luck
mtman
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cmacblue42
Feb 12, 2005, 1:33 AM
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well, actually your core is your abs, lower back, obliques ,etc. anything in that area pretty much.
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arjunrattan
Feb 13, 2005, 6:51 AM
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thanks guys esp wzrdgandalf and mtman.. man why dont i have my rate button today??? anyway i bought the book "training for climbing , eric j horst" ...its amazing and is giving me direction to improve my all round performance as a climber!
cheers,
arjun
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crag_shwagger
Feb 24, 2005, 3:43 AM
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Grab a hangboard, nicros warrior...other than that; fall,get up, and climb again!
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pepsbandit
Feb 24, 2005, 3:49 AM
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Meditate, remain calm, stay focused. Tai Chi's good too.
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climbjcc
Mar 8, 2005, 8:32 PM
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yea, tai chi deffintaly helped my climbing...seriously
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katanaman
Mar 8, 2005, 8:50 PM
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think im in on this a bit late to give advice but here goes. I was just in the same situation, I was stuck round that v3/4 plateau for hella long! I try to climb with really good climbers, some of my friends that are like v8ish and learn technique and get outside beta, the whole speel on core strength really is true, just lately I have started focusing on body tension, before i just used to flail, but it helps so much!!! I try to do sum situps for abs or whatnot, ladies love abs too, wish i had em...and lots of back exercises. Take light day outside or in the gym to climb problems you have extra sauced and just go real slow focusing on foot placement and the most efficient body placements, all this crap has probably been heard a million times but hey theres my insight man. :)
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