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pipsqueekspire
Feb 14, 2005, 5:52 AM
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So people just talked about using a cam as a passive nut. What is the weirdest pro you have used and still think it would hold a fall??
I am not talking about things you can read about like nuts in opposition or natural placements-
Example- Once I came upon what seemed to be a bomber piton but it was driven in too far and I could not get a biner through it. I thought about a sling but that could cut so I put a wired nut through it and clipped the nut. No way was the nut going through the eye hole of the piton so I called it good and moved on. I didnt fall on it either.
I have never used this but I have heard of people adding a lot of weight to a big sky hook and calling it good. Not my favorite but seems like a
1/4 X 1/2 inch thick steel hook would hold a serious fall. (A sky hook is much bigger than the little talons some of you are thinking of. I own one but all it does now is help me hang stockings above the fireplace.)
Anyone fallen on a wedged biner or a jammed knot?
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tattooed_climber
Feb 14, 2005, 4:47 PM
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i think someone on this site posted that they chock-stoned there extra shoes
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greenmachineman7
Feb 14, 2005, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: i think someone on this site posted that they chock-stoned there extra shoes
How in the hell is THAT supposed to hold a fall??
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Feb 14, 2005, 5:59 PM
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I've slung the trunk of a tree while on route that was rooted at the base of a climb. Then there was a guy I watched shimmy 15 up a tree and sling the trunk to protect the opening moves of a sketchy face climb. And there's the time honored alpine classic of weaving through trees without bothering to sling 'em at all, just hoping that you fall on the other side.
Although the pro was conventional, there was one time my patner made me close my eyes and pick three nuts at random to lead a 15' finger crack. What an @$$hole. I was unlucky with my choices, and two pieces came right out as I climbed above, so I basically soloed the thing. But hey, it really was only 15'.
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estwing
Feb 14, 2005, 6:16 PM
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I have rapped off of jammed knots tied in 1 inch webbing on two occasions, and I am still here to write this. I wouldn't have really wanted to take a big whip onto either of them though.
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rmoellering
Feb 14, 2005, 6:35 PM
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This isn't pro, but still seems to belong in the category.
I slung my tire iron on my harness as a nut tool once to follow my buddy up Bishop's Terrace. Fortunately he was a new leader so most of his nut placements had rattled out by the time I got to them anyway.
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drubt
Feb 14, 2005, 6:38 PM
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a tire iron? those big four sided wrench things? that seems a little strange to me
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wormly81
Feb 14, 2005, 6:42 PM
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I usually use some of the empty beer cans that I produce while climbing...
Just crush them while belaying up your second and then you can chock and sling em...
:twisted:
Jeff
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csproul
Feb 14, 2005, 6:49 PM
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I have clipped into aluminium siding that was pounded into snow for use as a picket. And then there has been the random sling coming out of ice/snow that I have no idea what it was attached to.
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bill413
Feb 14, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Well, this is another "slinging the tree."
On Refuse (in N.Conway) - one pitch was climbing up a dead tree (now gone). I would sling the dead branches for pro....my belayer was tied into the root system, and I was climbing the tree - which had no bark, no branch longer than a yard, and was riddled with flicker holes.
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pt
Feb 14, 2005, 7:09 PM
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I was on Mescalito when I came to a fixed rurp that was placed in a horizontal slot with the wire broken. It was the only possible placement and I couldn't get past the move. I finally used a very small pointy hook that I set in the hole where the wire used to be. I barely got it to hold in place for body weight. It sure wouldn't have held a fall. I've also tapped on bigger hooks with my hammer to keep them set in place for pro.
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lambone
Feb 14, 2005, 7:37 PM
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In Thailand they use old rope threaded through holes in the limestone for pro, sometimes even just knots in pockets.
Met a guy up in Squamish who would never climb with out his rack of knots and wooden blocks...no shit.
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bustloose
Feb 14, 2005, 8:10 PM
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i once used timmy fairfield for a ride to the crag, he's an odd fellow for sure, but a damn fine climber and all round good guy...
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grenzo
Feb 14, 2005, 8:51 PM
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i was on a mixed route last year, and had finished the steep secton of the route and had nothing left for protection withsmoe distance to go until the top, so I left a Quark ice tool hooked over a flake with a Screamer clipped to the spike for protection. My second had a pretty good chuckle, and i even think that it would have held a fall :twisted:
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2005, 9:08 PM
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standard pro when climbing with my current partner:
knotted webbing used as a stopper (common)
webbing slung through holes (common)
lassoed horn with rope/webbing (rare- usually only attempted)
along with his usual gear:
dolt nuts
titons
his use of stoppers and cams are limited to those scenarios when the above do not work out for him.
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bandidopeco
Feb 14, 2005, 9:18 PM
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two summers ago i was in tuolomne with Bridwell and we rapped of the back of DAFF dome on a single knotted sling. I guess they're normal in germany and the czech republic, and he went first so i was ok with it. The reason was that we had only one rope and couldn't find the second rap station.
I trust knotted slings a bit more now, though not totally.
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mingleefu
Feb 14, 2005, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: standard pro when climbing with my current partner: knotted webbing used as a stopper (common) webbing slung through holes (common) lassoed horn with rope/webbing (rare- usually only attempted) along with his usual gear: dolt nuts titons his use of stoppers and cams are limited to those scenarios when the above do not work out for him.
Scary Larry??
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azrockclimber
Feb 14, 2005, 9:35 PM
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not all that crazy cause I know people used to do this all the time but for me...crazy enough
--sling tied in a knot used once
--BD nut looped over a bolt with no hanger or nut..then sinched back up with the BD nut head so it was semi tight weighter it with a spare cam.
--in az this is a lot more common but slinging a tiny chichen head and weighting it with a cam.(any upward or outward motion and these will go).
--sinching two chicken heads together so that the pulls on both took advantage of the positive edges of both chicken heads.
thats it
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2005, 10:03 PM
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yup. :D
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crimp2bfree
Feb 14, 2005, 10:34 PM
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On my first real trad lead my friend sent me up the left variation of standard route on Whitehorse. I used a cam in passive position in a hole that expanded below the surface. I think it was a #2 and the outer edges of the hole trapped the cam, but it rattled around inside. It seemed safe to me at the time, but I didn't really know what I was doing. To make things even better, my next piece wasn't for probably another 30ft. I got 5 or 6 pieces of gear on the entire pitch, but it's easy low angle slab. I was still a little nervous, as I should have been.
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kachoong
Feb 14, 2005, 11:28 PM
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car jack.... in a granite off width.... had to pull it up with a trail line....
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irockclimbtoo
Feb 15, 2005, 12:36 AM
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ab
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jeff788
Feb 15, 2005, 1:13 AM
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I have been a toprope anchor... and I'm pretty wierd. We were canyoneering and there was an exposed 5.6-5.7 section that my friend's wife didn't want to solo. I climbed it, wedged myself in and we sent her up. She even hung several times. Canyoneering and aid climbing are the best for creative anchors. Burried sand bags and ibis hooks being my favorite rappel anchors.
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jeff788
Feb 15, 2005, 1:15 AM
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I have been a toprope anchor... and I'm pretty wierd. We were canyoneering and there was an exposed 5.6-5.7 section that my friend's wife didn't want to solo. I climbed it, wedged myself in and we sent her up. She even hung several times. Canyoneering and aid climbing are the best for creative anchors. Burried sand bags and ibis hooks being my favorite rappel anchors.
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wright
Feb 15, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Car jack... HA! :lol:
I also like subtle's (from Ask the NOOB fame) idea of using an 8-quart cooler for "mega off widths." The beverages should be ok as long as it doesn't open before your partner can clean it... :wink:
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