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climbhigh2005
Feb 27, 2005, 9:46 PM
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So i was climbing this weekend and there was two groups of climbers that obviously had no climbing experience... I wouldn't really mind this except for the fact that I honestly thought one of them was going to kill themselves because they had no idea what they were doing... If ignorance starts killing climbers then it will make climbers look stupid and get the area closed.... therefore I thought I would start a "dont do" list for beginnger climbers so that you dont kill yourself and others... (Experienced climbers PLEASE contribute)
1. Don't use an overhand knot! (duh! but I actually saw this being done)
2. Don't cross routes! talk about how to piss other climbers off and have a terrible fall... We were climbing on a route and someone 2 routes down from us started on one route and ended up traversing over and taking up 3 routes!
3. Don't walk all over people's gear (especially ropes)...
4. (insert whatever here)
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lucas_timmer
Feb 27, 2005, 10:13 PM
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4. Do not pull on the handle of a grigri when the climber you're securing falls....
5. Do not use snap carabiners for belaying.
And so on....To be completed by others...
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lucas_timmer
Feb 27, 2005, 10:15 PM
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4. Do not pull on the handle of a grigri when the climber you're securing falls....
5. Do not use snap carabiners for belaying.
And so on.... To be completed by others...
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kman
Feb 27, 2005, 10:19 PM
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Don't whine or make exuses when your asked to carry the rope and buy a beer for your partner :D
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edge
Feb 27, 2005, 10:21 PM
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Do not learn to climb via reading advice on the internet.
(you may, however, believe the above sentance in it's entirety, and I relinquish any and all rights to it's rebroadcast or reproduction in any form.)
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lucas_timmer
Feb 27, 2005, 10:23 PM
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In reply to: Don't whine or make exuses when your asked to carry the rope and buy a beer for your partner :D
Rule number 6 :wink:
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climbhigh2005
Feb 27, 2005, 10:31 PM
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In reply to: Do not learn to climb via reading advice on the internet. (you may, however, believe the above sentance in it's entirety, and I relinquish any and all rights to it's rebroadcast or reproduction in any form.)
this should be number one! but here is a DO
DO learn how to climb from experienced climbers or take one of those lame ass climbing classes... NOT only by reading, but actually learn from hands on with other experinced climbers
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horseonwheels
Feb 27, 2005, 10:40 PM
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6. Don't throw your rope over the edge setting up for a toprope without first loudly declaring that you are doing so by saying ROPE!!!. Do this even if your climbing partner is the only one on the ground.
7. Don't go out and buy a bunch of new gear and expect someone at the rock to teach you how to use it. In other words, at the very least, read up on the correct techniques so there is absolutely no confusion.
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mcumbrae
Feb 27, 2005, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: 1. Don't use an overhand knot! (duh! but I actually saw this being done)
You mean someone was TYING IN with an overhand???????? :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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climbhigh2005
Feb 27, 2005, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 1. Don't use an overhand knot! (duh! but I actually saw this being done) You mean someone was TYING IN with an overhand???????? :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
YES!! I couldn't believe it either... my climbign partner was like "look at those dumbasses over there... they are using an overhand.... and then I heard them say "yeah, you can use an over hand... a figure 8 is better though"... then they climbed a 5.8 in tennis shoes and told us it was 5.11... ?!?!? they never made it to the top though... made us look good afterward... flying up a 5.11... LOL
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petsfed
Feb 27, 2005, 11:14 PM
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In reply to: 5. Do not use snap carabiners for belaying.
What? Nonlocking? Wiregate? I don't understand what a "snap" carabiner is.
In any event, if you double up and oppose the gates, you can use any carabiner designed for climbing.
Don't get on a super classic climb because "its only 5.7, and I thought it would make a good first lead"
Don't snicker under your breath and point out how my experientially gained techniques are "different from how I was taught, you're gonna die dude"
Do assume that all red taped gear is retired, then give it to me to examine. My marking tape is red you see.
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chalkfree
Feb 27, 2005, 11:17 PM
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8. Don't use an american death triangle.
9. Don't triaxle load a biner.
(If you don't knwo what these things are ask...)
10. Don't forget to yell rock when you drop something.... Unless its a pack in which case you should yell profanities...
11. Don't forget to check your harness, knot and belay setup....
(Better climbers than 99% of those here have died because they forgot 11.)
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tenn_dawg
Feb 27, 2005, 11:19 PM
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You know, it seems like I read somewhere that an overhand knot is a just about as strong as a figure 8, but much harder to come untied after it has been weighted.
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justafurnaceman
Feb 27, 2005, 11:26 PM
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DON'T Whine Period!! (unless a bone is protruding out of your skin).
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irockclimbtoo
Feb 27, 2005, 11:29 PM
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ab
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speedywon
Feb 27, 2005, 11:42 PM
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Don't buy (and then try to use) gear that you haven't been taught how to use by an experienced climber. :nono:
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crimp2bfree
Feb 27, 2005, 11:46 PM
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"You know, it seems like I read somewhere that an overhand knot is a just about as strong as a figure 8, but much harder to come untied after it has been weighted."
I hope this is a joke.
I guess could see a retraced overhand possibly working. Most likely a nOOb tying in with an overhand and would just tie the knot around the harness though-not strong, super dangerous in terms of coming untied. Just tie a figure 8, lets not even discuss if the overhand is safe.
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davidji
Feb 28, 2005, 12:17 AM
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In reply to: 6. Don't throw your rope over the edge setting up for a toprope without first loudly declaring that you are doing so by saying ROPE!!!. Do this even if your climbing partner is the only one on the ground.
If there are people below, yell rope, and hope someone answers with clear. If not, yell again. If they won't answer you after the second yell, and it doesn't seem like you'll hit anyone, toss the rope.
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buckmanriver
Feb 28, 2005, 12:48 AM
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Don’t answer cell phone while belying
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areuinclimber
Feb 28, 2005, 1:05 AM
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In reply to: Don’t answer cell phone while belying
but it could be my lawyer..... or .... designer!
what then?!
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climbhigh2005
Feb 28, 2005, 1:11 AM
Post #21 of 66
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When you are belaying, dont say "aww man" or "uh oh"
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carbo
Feb 28, 2005, 1:19 AM
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While the overhand knot should not be used for tying in, it is an excellent knot for tying two ropes together for rapping as long as the tails are long enough (here the figure would be dangerous). Search and you will see.
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harrisha
Feb 28, 2005, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: While the overhand knot should not be used for tying in, it is an excellent knot for tying two ropes together for rapping as long as the tails are long enough (here the figure would be dangerous). Search and you will see.
Isn't this where you should be using a double or triple fisherman's knot carbo?
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kman
Feb 28, 2005, 1:39 AM
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In reply to: You know, it seems like I read somewhere that an overhand knot is a just about as strong as a figure 8, but much harder to come untied after it has been weighted.
:roll: you do not tie in with an overhand knot period!
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carbo
Feb 28, 2005, 1:42 AM
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of course double fisherman is preferred. But it is a large knot and can often get stock when pulling ropes. This would be an issue when rapping from multipitch climbs. Believe me I was a bit skeptical when I was first introduced to the single overhand knot but it is plenty strong.
more on joining ropes
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/JoinRopes.htm
http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/advanced.htm
but since we are talking about beginners don't list, stick to the double or triple fisherman.
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