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wbennett
Mar 31, 2005, 4:17 AM
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I am thinking about getting these cams as my starting set of cams to start light trad climbing. Is this a good idea? Or should I get some different cams. I want a good review for these cams from someone who has used them. Out of the cams that I have used I do like these a lot. Any help would be great.
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bandycoot
Mar 31, 2005, 4:27 AM
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Pros: Great cam overall, I've been climbing on them for about 5 years and I've just sent my first one in for trigger wire repair. They are lighter than camalots, but I don't know how they compare to other sizes. If I need doubles for a route I take a set of Metolius and a set of Camalots. I have a double set of camalots but the Metolius are lighter.
Cons: They have a slightly smaller expansion range that results in the "power." Some people complain about the U-stem, but I don't find it matters for pretty much all of the climbing that I do.
Other: In the small sizes (#2 - #3 and on down) I'd recommend getting TCUs over the FCUs.
Hope that helps.
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esallen
Mar 31, 2005, 4:36 AM
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I have a bunch of Powercams and love them, especially in the smaller sizes. I'd go with Camalots in the med-large range though.
Eric
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jimdavis
Mar 31, 2005, 4:56 AM
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Powercams are the shiz!
I prefer the 4cu's of the tcu's down to a 1. I have a 0 in a FCU, and it'd probably be a better piece in the TCU version.
R&I did a write-up of the Metolius FCU and TCU cams a while back. http://www.rockandice.com/gear/129/gear.129.html check out what they have to say about them.
I like them more than just about any other cam out there. Light, solid and easy to place, smooth, well designed, ect. I chose them over Camalots, Tech Friends, ect...and I'm pretty picky about gear.
If I had all the money I could wish for...I'd have a full set of Powercams 1-8, and double up with Aliens then Forged Friends where the Aliens leave off.
I really like them, you can't go wrong with em.
Cheers,
Jim
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hibby11
Mar 31, 2005, 5:08 AM
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This months issue of climbing has a gear guide, and a cam comparison, I have some power cams and would highly reccommend them especially if your beginning. They have been nothing but simple and effective for me
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wlderdude
Mar 31, 2005, 5:26 AM
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In my opinion, they are the easiest cams to get off the rack and in the rock.
A lot of people prefer the single stem cams, but I prefer U style.
It seems to me more people prefer BD and WC cams than Metolius.
Although, if I decide I need more cams I will probably get DMM cams. They have a similar design, but are a little lighter, cheaper and are better color coded.
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skinner
Mar 31, 2005, 2:38 PM
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I think they are awesome! Although nothing beats Aliens in the smaller sizes. I have 2 full sets of PowerCams, triples in the mid range sizes.
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wbennett
Mar 31, 2005, 9:10 PM
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Thanks for the help sounds like a good set of cams.
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climbinginchico
Mar 31, 2005, 9:44 PM
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They are nice cams, but I prefer C4's and aliens.
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tchamber
Mar 31, 2005, 10:33 PM
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C4s and Aliens are the standard by which all other cams are measured for a reason.
I'd go to your local gear shop, fondle the various cams, find places to "set" them to get a feel for the usable expansion range of each type of cam. I really don't think you are being fair to yourself if you buy a particular set of cams before trying a few different brands.
Even better yet, find someone who will let you climb with their rack so you have an even better idea of what cam is going to suit you best.
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josephgdawson
Mar 31, 2005, 10:33 PM
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I would start out with a full set of Aliens. They are very easy to place and they are a great cam. The smaller sized aliens place much better than small Black Diamond cams. For a full rack you are going to want doubles in all cam sizes except the super big ones, so get a full set of Aliens and then a full set of something else.
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jimdavis
Mar 31, 2005, 10:35 PM
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In reply to: C4s and Aliens are the standard by which all other cams are measured for a reason.
C4's have been out for less than a season. They are hardly the standard, yet.
The big selling point of the C4's is the range and comfort, both of which are surpassed by the Trango Maxcams.
Camalots, well that's another story...
Jim
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tchamber
Mar 31, 2005, 10:50 PM
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Jim, you are correct sir.
I was referring to camalots in general, but said C4s because the poster is probably not going to be buying the "old school" camalots over the C4s.
I will be very interested to see how the Max Cams size up.
As far as small cams I really don't think you can go wrong with aliens in blue up through red.
Again, though, I'd highly recommend demoing a few brands first. I know quite a few people on RC.com have been burned buying Robots or Pulsars, and didn't realize the shoddy quality until they climbed with their partner's rack.
I don't think you can really go wrong with the Metolius Cams, but you may find later on that you like a different brand better. It's better to discover that before you lay out ~$400 for a set of cams.
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vegastradguy
Mar 31, 2005, 11:06 PM
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actually, if you want to get technical, the biggest max cam is not only heavier than the #4 C4, but it also has a smaller expansion range...
that said, the trango maxcams are slick, they feel great, and they do have a monster expansion range in the two smallest sizes in comparison to BD. i had a chance to check one out and my hats off to Malcolm, i'm duly impressed.
finally- the OP noted that of all the cams he tried, he liked Metolius Powercams the best. OP- you answered your own question. Cams come down to preference of handling for the most part. All of them are certified, all of them have pros/cons, but the bottom line is that all cams work fine in most situations- so pick the one you like the feel of best. Oh, and Metolius cams are nice cams- Metolius, like BD, Trango, and WC- makes very high quality gear!
As you climb more trad, you'll pick up some different cams to try out, and, over time, you'll modify and change your rack to suit your tastes- but chances are, if you pick the cams you like best as your first cams, those cams will be the staple of your rack for a long time to come...
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hosh
Mar 31, 2005, 11:25 PM
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I agree with Vagastradguy. Just get what feels nice. Metolius cams are nice (I've only got the 9 and 10) and the BD cams are nice (I've got 1, 4.5 [x2]) Aliens are frickin' sweet! (I've got black through orange plus 2 hybrids [black/blue, blue/green]). Ther rest of my rack is made of Trango Flex cams (old style). Just get what you like, you'll figure out what you really like in time.
Hosh.
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onbelay510
Apr 1, 2005, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2004
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It's all about what you like. I have a couple of Power Cams, but I like Camalots more. Just play with a bunch of them, and buy what feels good to you.
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xcit
Apr 2, 2005, 5:09 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2002
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All my cams are Metolius except my CCH. I prefer the U stem and trigger action over other cams I have tried. I find they place really well in horizontally.
I would say go for them.
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tenesmus
Apr 2, 2005, 5:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
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If you go to the desert a lot those fat cams are really, really confidence inspiring.
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