|
koolaideprived
Apr 11, 2005, 5:42 AM
Post #1 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 3
|
I seem to be the only person that I climb with that finds that chalk is unnecessary and overall makes everything gooey feeling and slipperier. Does anyone else have this feeling? My hands tend not to sweat a lot and it always seems like everyone that needs chalk needs it because their hands are sweating up. My hands seem to have a much more positive contact with whatever I'm climbing when they're clean as opposed to chalked up.
|
|
|
|
|
horseonwheels
Apr 11, 2005, 6:01 AM
Post #2 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2005
Posts: 226
|
It's sort of funny. When I started climbing, like many, I just bouldered. For nearly a year during that time, I was a hardcore chalk whore (getting some [chalk] whenever and wherever). As I moved on to toproping and sport climbing I still took the "chalk up before every move" philosophy, including on easy .7's and .8's. But then when I started getting into trad, I usually just left my chalkbag in the car. Obviously there isn't a lot of need for chalk on dirt and moss covered 5.5's. Since then, I rarely chalk up unless my hands are actually sweating. What a concept!!! I think when I was just bouldering it became sort of a mental thing more than anything; as in "oh, I'm bouldering, I should have at least a half-inch of chalk built up on my hands." The last time I bought chalk was at the end of last summer, and I'm not anticipating buying any more for quite a while. Clearly, there is a place for chalk, but I think it's the tendency for many people to over-chalk to the point where it's actually becoming a hindrance.
|
|
|
|
|
mrsuicide
Apr 11, 2005, 6:08 AM
Post #3 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2004
Posts: 104
|
i use very little chalk, i hardly sweat so its not needed.
|
|
|
|
|
rockmaninoff
Apr 11, 2005, 6:28 AM
Post #4 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 43
|
I only like chalk indoors. On the rock I try not to use it.
|
|
|
|
|
rasken
Apr 11, 2005, 6:47 AM
Post #5 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2005
Posts: 15
|
Well, I chalk plenty. Even though I sweat quite a lot, motivating more than average chalk, that does in no way explain the chalk consumption I'm up to. I think, as was mentioned earlier, that it's a mind game. Chalking up means psyching up for the climb, I think. I'm trying to reduce it, since it actually causes problems for others when it's built up on the rock. But then I'm also trying to reduce alcohol, caffeine, and tobacco. That ain't going too well either :)
/rasken
"There is no normal life. There's just life. So get on with it."
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Apr 11, 2005, 6:50 AM
Post #6 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
The one thing that I have found (maybe in my own mind) that once the holds on a route get "chalked" you are married to the stuff. Holds that I used to be able to stick to (chalkless) without a problem and are now caked with chalk cause me to pop off as all the little pores and grooves have become filled and polished. I also think that a huge degree of the thrill of doing a route for the first time, is taken away when not only the route, but all the holds are clearly marked out in white chalk.
I also wonder if I am the only one who thinks that those beautiful splitters, in that awesome red sandstone, look like crap when they are covered in blazing white chalk marks from top to bottom? I just don't think it's necessary to dip your hand in the chalk bag for every move on every climb, just because you have chalk.
|
|
|
|
|
bluenose
Apr 11, 2005, 1:28 PM
Post #7 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
I tend to get a little chalk before climbing, just enough to dry up, then don't worry about for the climb.
I don't expect to use any on real rock, but we'll see when that happens.
The gym seems to brush the holds occasionally, I think, as they are pretty clear. Too bad brushing chalk wasn't part of the climbing cleaning routine. Might be a few less access issues as there would be nothing left behind to mar the "look" and map the routes.
Jeff.
|
|
|
|
|
12volt_man
Apr 11, 2005, 1:37 PM
Post #8 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2005
Posts: 406
|
Been climbing for over twenty years and have NEVER used the stuff. Never bolted either. Niether fits in with my concept of clean climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
jorian_nl
Apr 11, 2005, 1:50 PM
Post #9 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2004
Posts: 190
|
I don't use chalk outdoors because I climb mostly in nideggen where chalk is forbidden
But indoor on a hard indoor route I use chalk all the time.
I don't waste my chalk on the easier routes or on my woody.
|
|
|
|
|
happiegrrrl
Apr 11, 2005, 1:54 PM
Post #10 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
|
I was on Rusty Trifle up at the Gunks this Saturday, and saw all this chlak....I thought "Man - this bites. I just saw someone say on Gunks.com, that there is no chalk trail yet, and here it is, 5 days later and I feel like little Gretel following the bread crumb trail...."
Then I topped out and my leader said "This climb hasn't seen much traffic. All the chalk you saw was mine."
Talk about impact!
************
Gym and outside are not the same thing. In the gym, on a busy night the holds get wet. Chalk helps.
Outside, on a 5.something climb, if the hold is wet, chalk ain't going to help......
I have only begun to boulder so I can't speak from experience, but it occurs to me that, because there may be several people handling the same holds within a short time frame, the holds might get sweaty, and chalk might help. I guess there is a difference between a wet hold from water, and one from sweat......
**********
My goal is to never use chalk outside again. Ever. Although I consider my chalkbag to be a cute accessory(I'm a girl, ya gotta allow me to accessorize!!!), and am not yet ready to commit to leaving it in the "gym bag"....maybe I can figure something out.
If my hands are sweating, I dry them off on my pants. Guess what guys - it feels mucho macho. I'm such a (5.7 seconding, with one lead under my belt, climbing) hardass - and I can keep it clean......Try it. If you think the chalk gives you special powers - going buck-naked is better. Oh, yes.....Shockley's Ceiling - I am waiting for the day I have my chance, and I WON'T be wearing chalk.......
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Apr 11, 2005, 1:54 PM
Post #11 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
i've sort of stopped using chalk this season- my partner jokes that now i'm finally getting 'clean' ascents of things....
i suspect i'll start using it again as it gets warmer, tho- Red Rocks gets hot enough that my hands get really slick in the summer...
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Apr 11, 2005, 1:55 PM
Post #12 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
When I started climbing, I used chalk for a while. Then realized that it was a crutch - no need for it on easier routes. I think, now, that in the last 15 years, I've been on three or so climbs where chalk would have helped me - and the latest one it would have been to mark where a particularly obscure foot hold was located!
I think it can (& does) help on frictional holds - slopers - especially on hot days, but for most people it's really not necessary. And, I agree that the residue of it detracts from the scenery.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Apr 11, 2005, 2:11 PM
Post #13 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i got a few friends that like to use chalk a lot. i use it just enough to keep my hands dry.
here is how the coeficient of friction between skin and rock corelate:
sweaty/greasy skin
so if youve got sweaty or greasy skin, its better to chalk up.
|
|
|
|
|
getbornkeepwarm
Apr 11, 2005, 5:57 PM
Post #14 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2005
Posts: 27
|
i was climbing a good bit a few years ago, both in gyms and outside, and never used chalk... i dropped it for a few years due to lack of time/money/other interested people/whatever else that's not the point. i have started going to the gym again and have been using chalk- it helps, but i don't think it's really neccessary. almost seems like more of a mental dependency than something that actually improves your climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
gochubug
Apr 11, 2005, 6:18 PM
Post #15 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 116
|
I rather doubt if Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Fred Beckey and the boys used chalk back when they were establishing all those routes that many climbers think they need chalk to climb nowadays.
I think it has become a bit of a crutch, especially in the sport climbing arena. It does help if it's hot and you are sweating a lot, but I don't think it is needed most of the time otherwise. I usually don't even take it along on trad routes.
Like has already been pointed out, it really gums up the holds and makes them slippery.
My wife swears by it and I seldom use it. We climb the same routes in about the same style. Personal preference I guess.
|
|
|
|
|
turtlehead
Apr 11, 2005, 6:19 PM
Post #16 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2005
Posts: 32
|
I chalk like a mad man. I do at times feel bad about how much chalk I end up leaving on the rock, but honestly, I peel if I don't chalk. As I sit here typing, my hands are sweaty. Chalk is a must for me. On the other hand, my climbing partner will head up all the same climbs sans chalk with no issues at all.
|
|
|
|
|
chogori
Apr 11, 2005, 6:22 PM
Post #17 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 21, 2005
Posts: 72
|
Chalk is my hero! I never leave home without it.
It's something I can always do right before a crux move that allows me to pause for a few and build up concentration while not just thinking about hanging there. Also, I'm convinced that reaching down below your heart like that helps blood to get back into your finger tips, especially if you take your time and shake your hands around in the process.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Apr 11, 2005, 6:40 PM
Post #18 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
I suppose there are a few people who don't use chalk and still climb pretty hard, but I have never personally seen any.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Apr 11, 2005, 7:35 PM
Post #19 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
i love chalk.
|
|
|
|
|
slip
Apr 11, 2005, 7:44 PM
Post #20 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 49
|
When you live in Arizona, you sweat a lot. Therefore, you use chalk.
|
|
|
|
|
outsi
Apr 11, 2005, 8:01 PM
Post #21 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 31
|
I love it love it love it, my hands are very moist :twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
obe
Apr 11, 2005, 8:14 PM
Post #22 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2005
Posts: 191
|
I am not going to lie. I am one of the many overchalkers. But, when you start to climb above .10's, you really can't chalk up all the time because of 1, the handhold are way to small,2, you are way too pumped,3, the position that you are in does not allow you to chalk up. I think it helps a ton though. The gym holds are crap because of the chalk, and some outdoor routes are too. If everybody used less chalk, a lot of things would be better.
Climb on
Climb hard
Have fun
-Pete
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Apr 11, 2005, 8:34 PM
Post #23 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
It really depends on the temperature for me. If I'm sweating, I'll chalk up. If I'm outside, in the shade, on a cool day, I probably don't need it.
Seeing chalk on holds does not bug me though, unlike some sensitive souls here.
|
|
|
|
|
cliffhanger9
Moderator
Apr 11, 2005, 8:45 PM
Post #24 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 2275
|
I tend to not use chalk - i dont really even have a functioning chalkbag. Its to much maintenance, makes the holds nasty, makes my hands nasty - no thanks. I was working a comp over the weekend and kept finding my mouth drying out constantly just from breathing it all in. There were way to many people who chalked up BETWEEN EACH HOLD - sometimes more and then would brush it off and then chalk the holds. WTF?. There was more than enough chalk in the air for everyone to have seconds. yikes. I hate chalk. :evil:
That said, if I get sooper sweaty I have been known to steal some chalk but i try to keep it minimal.
|
|
|
|
|
fire_eyes
Apr 11, 2005, 8:48 PM
Post #25 of 54
(9763 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 252
|
Just thinking about climbing makes my hands sweat. Actual climbing makes them ridiculously, seriously, slippery wet. In the gym, it builds up on the holds a lot. Yuck. But outside, the rain will wash it away, and I need it to get on real rock.
I tried that TiteGrip hand antiperspirant, the whole sample size tube wasn't enough to keep my hands dry for a single pitch. So, chalk it is.
But do I like chalk? Nope. makes my cuticles dry, makes me scrape more skin off on the granite, and makes me feel guilty when I leave it on a rock.
And damned if I don't spill half a bag of it once a month forgetting to close it on a downclimb or something...
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
