|
lapple
Apr 12, 2005, 4:43 AM
Post #1 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2005
Posts: 8
|
Any tips on strength training moves to do in the regular gym (not climbing gym) that would help with climbing? I tire faster than I'd like and notice my grip is weaker than I'd like.
Any tips?
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Apr 12, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #2 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
keep climbing- we'd all like to be stronger right away, but nature is funny that way.
if you're very new- just keep climbing, it'll come quick enough. if you've been at it for more than a year or so, then you may want to consider some cross training, i suppose. unfortunately, i cant help you with that, i abhor anything physical if its not either climbing or going to a climb....
|
|
|
|
|
koolaideprived
Apr 12, 2005, 5:31 AM
Post #3 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 3
|
I probably have no place to talk as I'm also a new climber but I've found that I have noticed that traversing a lot in the gym has helped my strength the most. Just keep traversing until you can't hold on anymore. Wash, rinse, repeat.
|
|
|
|
|
wbennett
Apr 12, 2005, 6:13 AM
Post #4 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2005
Posts: 24
|
Look on amazon.com for some good training books about climbing
|
|
|
|
|
bmxer
Apr 12, 2005, 6:46 AM
Post #5 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 220
|
if you climb 2-3 days a week , the first 2 weeks youll have a lot of forearm burn, and overcoming fears that come w/ climbing.
after that you'll start growing tricep or pull strength.
Then you just gotta figure out what kind of workout you want to do besides climbing.
Because if you just keep climbing 2-3 days a week, you will get better.
|
|
|
|
|
icarus_burned
Apr 12, 2005, 10:11 AM
Post #7 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2004
Posts: 281
|
In reply to: In reply to: after that you'll start growing tricep or pull strength. Triceps extend the forearm, or make a pushing motion. Learn some basic anatomy before you dispense incorrect information. :roll:
then why is it so that my biceps never really tire when im climbing, but my triceps always end up sore and the like?
though technically correct in your statement i notice much more of a burn in the tricep than in the bicep when climbing
dont know why, dont care to know either, thats just my experience
|
|
|
|
|
slacker607
Apr 12, 2005, 1:53 PM
Post #8 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2005
Posts: 16
|
huh, i dont think i have ever had tricep burn while climbing before. are you mixing up biceps and triceps?
-other then that some stuff i will do in the gym to help with climbing is wrist curls, pullups, lat pulldowns, and a type of finger curl where you roll something like a 25pound dumbbell in your hand. most of the time i will do this stuff extra on a day that i'm just doing shoulders. alot of situps or core strength excersizes always help. I dont think any gym training helps as much as just climbing more.
|
|
|
|
|
headchop
Apr 12, 2005, 2:10 PM
Post #9 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2003
Posts: 302
|
Gotta disagree about the tricep - unless you're doing a lot of mantling, I don't see how you can get much of a tricep burn while climbing.
Anyhow, if in a regular gym, you can try some of the suggestions above and maybe work on your pinch strength by pinching two 25lb plates between your fingers - flat (featureless) side out. If/when this is too easy, start increasing the weight; if this is too hard, start out with something lighter.
That said, the best thing to do in the gym is work your antagonist (push) muscles - to prevent injury - and let climbing itself take care of building the specific pull strength you need for climbing.
Just my opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
tuhon
Apr 12, 2005, 2:20 PM
Post #10 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2005
Posts: 26
|
This is coming from a noobie, but one thing that I do in the gym is do towel pull-ups. I wrap a towel around the pull up bar then I grab the towel and do 4 sets of as many pull-ups as I can do. I do this for my martial arts training and it has helped me a great deal in climbing. My arms almost never get tired and I have a gorilla grip to boot.
Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
noell
Apr 12, 2005, 2:33 PM
Post #11 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 313
|
Just a thought on the tricep versus bicep thing. I am a fairly short climber with a negative ape index. When locking off, many times I have to get a really high foot and kind of rock up and push down in order to reach really far away holds. This involves pulling with the 'pull muscles' then continuing that pull motion and almost mantling on what most people just pull down on, which really uses my triceps.
I currently train alot in the gym for climbing, since I am not climbing in the gym (finger injury -arg!). I have found that weighted pull ups, ABC's/Frenchies, tricep pushdowns, bicep curls, and TONS of core stuff (crunches, hanging legs raises, etc.) has helped me keep my strength.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Apr 12, 2005, 2:35 PM
Post #12 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
Maybe his tricep burn comes from constantly extending his arms above his head! I know that hands and arms usually don't weigh a whole lot but just try holding them over your head for a few minutes and it can get a little burn going. Perhaps this guy has major deficiency in his tri's and so his burn comes quickly. Not being critical here just looking for the reason for a sever burn. My forearms and fingers give out before my arms ever do, that is unless I am doing something requiring stupid strength oriented moves on jugs like "No one here gets out alive" campus style, then my arms just get toasted from the sevearl one arm no feet lock offs necessary.
To the orginal post. First, get a Dyna Flex ball! They rule and allow you to train at your leisure for forearm strength, and help you to feel a heavy burn and just fight it, makes pulling the crux while your blasted easier. Second, climb more or climb harder. Use your time in the gym to really torture yourself. It is good to have a committed partner too because you will want more time on the rock. Pick a good line near to your level and climb it as quickly and smoothly as possible, no rest, lower quickly and tackle it again or another line if the gym is empty, but just get right back on the wall. Repeat this till your toasted, complete and total muscle failure is what your looking for, use a few takes but pause only a shortly and get back to it. Now rest, and allow your partner his turn or just wait for 5 and go again. Your line should be difficult as to only allow 3 passes before your too exhausted to continue. 3 reps usually does the trick because you should be able to barely make it up the wall at all. Take 2-3 days off, and go do some cardio before you repeat this task. You will see gains in under two weeks and in a few months you will be slaying. After two months, take an entire week and maybe a half off before getting back to it. Recovery is too often overlooked when strength training, and just as important as breakdown during your workout.
|
|
|
|
|
nonick
Apr 12, 2005, 3:28 PM
Post #13 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2001
Posts: 174
|
chk out the shape of your life program at http://www.outsideonline.com , its really helped me.
|
|
|
|
|
spacemonkey07
Apr 21, 2005, 2:16 PM
Post #14 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 26, 2004
Posts: 68
|
Just climb as much as you can. Watch out with too much strength training in the beginning. You'll be mostly training your muscles. With climbing your tendons are at least equally important, and they don't get strong as quickly as muscle fibers. It takes at least about 3 years of climbing to get your tendons as strong. If your muscles become too strong you'll get tendon injury. (they also heal slower than muscles, so that sucks big time)
Having this said; When you are in your gym, start with bouldering for about an hour. (start with easy problems for a warmup and gradually increase the difficulty untill your reach your max)
Then go to the long routes. You might feel pumped in the beginning, but you'll be able to get to your max. level as well. Because the bouldering has taken all the 'ATP' energy out of your muscles, you'll be training your glycogene fibers doing the longer routes.
Do this once a week and you'll become strong as hell. You'll still need technique, because this lasts longer. But when your technique is not enough, strenght always helps ;-)
Train on!!
W
|
|
|
|
|
michaelw
Apr 26, 2005, 11:09 AM
Post #15 of 15
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2005
Posts: 1
|
Other than the obvious: climb more. I found that towel chinups (already mentioned) and also wraping a towel around the free weights so your grip is different helps.
Out of the gym a find a squash ball and crushing it with two fingers against the plam of your hand. You should be able to do this with each set of finger pairs with the outer knuckle straight.
HTH
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
|
