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eliliang
May 3, 2005, 3:41 AM
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Where can I find directions on building a system board? I know about http://www.filmforgestudios.com/images/system-board.jpg, but it isn't exactly instructions on how to put it together, the spacing of the holds, etc. Can someone help point me to something a bit more detailed somewhere?
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tobym
May 3, 2005, 2:42 PM
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this might help:
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=203
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eliliang
May 3, 2005, 3:52 PM
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I'd seen that article before. It is probably the best article on the internet on System Training. But I am still left wondering exactly how to build the board and how to space the holds, etc.
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bellatoris
May 3, 2005, 9:11 PM
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I have a system board in my appt and used to train on it quite a bit, and got some pretty good gains. I followed Horst's HIT workout, check his latest books or the web which is really just weighted system boarding. What I did on my wall was use 4 finger holds that were about an inch and a half deep, and spaced about 18' apart. The first would be about 3' off the ground, the next about 4.5, then 6, and a last one at 7' or so (when the wall is up). I would also have a set of 4 crimps on a seperate panel, in much the same way. I would then do sets, up and down, with the wall about 45 degrees overhanging. Unlike the HIT workouts, I kept my feet on the floor the whole time. It allowed me to really just focus on the fingers.
Good luck, and remember this stuff is pretty hardcore. Warm up well, listen to your body and get LOTS of rest over the next few days. Otherwise you can really injure yourself.
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eliliang
May 4, 2005, 12:11 AM
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bellatoris, if you don't mind, I have a few questions. Is your system board made up of HIT strips then? Do you have foot holds at the bottom like the system board in this diagram?
http://www.filmforgestudios.com/images/system-board.jpg
Where did you get the design for your system board? What sort of gains have you experienced working out with your board?
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korntera
May 4, 2005, 3:33 AM
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Go to metolius.com they have a free how to build a wall guide.
-Travis
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bellatoris
May 4, 2005, 10:38 PM
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In reply to: Is your system board made up of HIT strips then?
No. My friend gave me gangs of holds he no longer needed. I used deep two finger incut pockets. Oh I forgot earlier. I also had a set of campus rungs spaced 16" apart I would pinch, match, pinch etc.
In reply to: Do you have foot holds at the bottom like the system board in this diagram?
No. Forget feet. They slow you down and contribute too much to the climbing; ie. good footwork and the climbing becomes easier. I logged all my sessions, and did not want an extra variable in the equation.
In reply to: Where did you get the design for your system board?
I made it up myself, although I followed Horst's suggestions, i.e. ~18" apart. It is basically his workout on my own holds. I only rested more between sets, (2 min is a joke if you are cranking, and not using feet).
In reply to: What sort of gains have you experienced working out with your board?
My gains were freaky, in that I was making tons of progress. Nowadays, due to my prior system boarding (I have stayed away from it due to an unrelated finger injury), monodoights and duo's are never my limiting factors. Guys who will smoke me on everything else, ie. endurance, technique, footwork etc, are sometimes humbled by my "deep pocket" finger strength. Obviously, in some casess it translated very well to rock; show me a deep mono and I will show you a good rest. Sadly, on pockets less than 1.5" deep my advantage almost dissappears. The point is not to glorify myself, on the contrary, had I used shallower pockets, I would probably be much stronger, and better able to deal with the majority of the routes out there (seriously, how many deep monos are there anyways?). Also, I share the info, because those were exciting times. You will get freaked out too, but realize one thing; you are playing with fire. System boarding is much more intense than any bouldering session. Injuries are just waiting to happen. I highly recommend you warm up well, boulder, do some light campusing than do a warm up set without any weights. Then go as heavy as possible (if training power) or sans weights for power endurance. But most of all listen to your body. If you get the feeling something's weird, or off, act accordingly. Keep a log and pm me with your results.
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