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austinclmbr
May 3, 2005, 2:46 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 214
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This wall is on the barton creek green belt, between siesmic and gus fruh. It is labeled on the barton creek green belt maps and mentioned in the texas climbers web site, but no topos or ratings seem to be available. There are three lines all bolted and two sets of chains at the top, but I have yet to seen anyone but myself climb this wall. What's the deal here? I realize the wall is short, and flaky, and almost all of it is a slight incline but why does nobody like it??? I have found this wall to be a great fore-arm workout and the left line was one of my first leads (prob about a 5.8 or so) and the far left line I haven't even attempted yet. Still, I have really enjoyed climbing here and think it is a great place for beginer climbers SO my question is : Why is this wall talked about so poorly in the web sites and not even rated?? You would think if someone took the time to bolt it they would at least name and rate the lines too!
P.S. not familiar with this wall, or want to climb it ? jwalker-svm@sbcglobal.net
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blackwell4
May 3, 2005, 6:53 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 53
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Here is some of the story.
It was developed in in mid 80's when ERock was closed to climbing.
Folks like Jeff Jackson, James Crump, Rick Watson, Karen and Russell Rand, Kevin Gallagher,Paul Clark, Tom Lyde,Mike Lewis and Dave Belton worked in these roofs.
It has 12 bolted climbs ranging from that corner 5.8 (maybe 5.9?) to 5.13.
It fell into disrepair due to its chossy dusty nature of being under that big honking roof.
As a member of CTM and on the rebolting committee, I have been working about 8 hours a week replacing bad gear and testing other gear.
I have focused on re building the multi pitch 5.10 climb called Urban Assault to generate interest and offer another mid range climb inside the city.
This climb is located at the deep corner in the center of the wall. I consulted with the FA and rebuilt it using his input.
It takes off from the ground up 3 bolts to an obvious cave. Inside the cave is a belay station invisible from the ground. Take a headlamp, the cave goes back 50-70 feet before I got squeezed and backed out.
The second pitch begins with an easy traverse across a large ledge. Check out the funky rusty totally ugly piton that originally protected that traverse. Clip the bomber stainless steel gear in the roof instead. Continue around the corner to 2 more new bolts and hangers and set up for a sweet 5.10 roof move to gain the big ledge and next belay station.
The last pitch has 5 new bolts replacing the rusty hangerless 3/8" bolts and newchains that are out of sight. A hard move gets you off the ground and a great move takes you to the chains.
A single sixty meter rope will allow a rap from the top chains, but just barely.
This climb has great exposure unlike anything in the greenbelt.
As of the end of April we have replaced a missing bolt to that left corner climb to eliminate that runout. No solid rock at the top for anchors, so you still have to create your own anchor. We have given that unnamed climb the name of "Buzzards Breath" due to the nasty creatures that float nearby.
Moving to the right of that climb is Ladrone a manufactured 5.11 set with pitons. I climbed it 8 years ago and haven't been back. Next moving to the right is Masada 5.12 7 bolts 2 top anchors. then is Femme 5.13 7 bolts 2 top anchors, then Starfish 5.12 9 bolts 2 top anchors, best done in 2 pitches, Then Cell Block 5.11 that if you continue past its chains to the roof will put you in the wild ass traverse of Medicine Man 5.12
Sharing the same first bolt as Cell Block is Mah Jong a 5.12 that moves up and right.
Then comes the 2 pitch Plate Techtonics 5.13
then Spelioantics 5.12 ( with new first bolt)
Then Urban Assault (described above)
Then is a 5.13 missing all its gear called Deep Flow.
Move out to the right is Mandibles a 5.12
Then an aid route ,Lydesaid A1
and the last climb is Manchild 5.12. ( run out and loose rock make this one to avoid)
We will continue to renovate the wall and repair the climbs.
Join CTM, its cheap, like $20 for a years dues. they are loacted at www.ctmrocks.com
You can get better route descriptions and topos by buying Sean OGrady's new guide book "Austin Rock".
I carry a few copies with me that I sell out of my pack or you can get them from the website where we swap lies , trip reports and photos
www.erockonline.com
Tommy
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austinclmbr
May 3, 2005, 7:58 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 214
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obvisouly I am the one in the wrong here. Matter of fact I just got back from the creek and I must have just found the wall your describing. The one I was refering to I am now guessing is not urban assault at all. I was speaking of a wall closer to siesmic. as a matter of fact you can see the wall from the top of where I just was. (1/2 mile to the south) Ther are only three routes on this small wall. It is very shady and I think willstill be a great climb on the hottst of days due to it being completly shaded (not more than 20M to chains) and there is a deep hole in the creek that is at least 6 feet deep at the current moment. Any Ideas? If I had to guess I would say the climbs are from left to right: 5.8, 5.10c, and >5.11 but all very short
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luker
May 4, 2005, 2:04 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2004
Posts: 10
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kirk and alvin's wall probably. i'd suggest picking up a copy of sean's austin rock guidebook. then all your questions shall be answered young jedi. or something.
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