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boadman
Jun 2, 2005, 7:05 PM
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So, my girlfriend and I are going to be climbing in City of Rocks this weekend for 3 days or so. I was hoping I could get some advice on the must do lines, so that we could maximize our time there. Sport up to 12+, trad up to 11+. I've heard "Crack of Doom" should be on the list. Anything else? Thanks.
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rockhound71
Jun 2, 2005, 8:02 PM
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You're probably looking for harder stuff, but some I would recommend are:
Wheat Thin
Rye Crisp
Bloody Fingers
Skyline
All are great routes.
C
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elvislegs
Jun 2, 2005, 8:46 PM
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roller coaster wall, on the back of bath rock, has some harder sport lines. mid .10 up to mid .12 i think. colossus is a fun one.
flaming rock has a few really great .10+ sport lines as well. tribal boundaries, quest for fire.
all the stuff mentioned on elephant rock is great. well traveled, and for good reason.
moderate crack climbs abound, thin ice, bloody fingers. and if you're up to it then you definately should do crack of doom. i haven't been able to make it past the hard start yet, but the upper section is supposedly second to none.
castle rocks is also full of routes that fit your criteria. the red rib, is my favorite sport line over there. really great friction route, full rope pitch.
these are all city classics, but honestly man, you won't be disappointed wherever you go.
have fun.
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powerandrubber
Jun 2, 2005, 9:08 PM
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Terror of tiny town
Singapore
Harvest
Scar Tssue
Crack of doom
Interceptor
Comp wall splitter
Best cracks I've done there.
Strategic Defense
Siesta
Spud meets hammerhead
Redtail
She's the bosch
Drilling field
Provo
Firewater
Loch ness monster
Fat Lip
Best faces
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overit
Jun 2, 2005, 9:11 PM
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I haven't been there for a long time so I don't remeber what wall or if it's open now but I remember having a blast on She's the Bosch-11.b and then to the right of that route is another real long 10.d(17 draws) and a nice 5.11 arete.
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bigo
Jun 2, 2005, 9:14 PM
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Some of the best and definitely most convenient sport climbs are on the back of bath rock. Here are my favorites.
-Gemini 12a sport
-Calamari 12b sport
-Colossus 10c sport
-Private Idaho 5.9 trad
Shes the Bosch (11b sport) on Window Rock is good.
Crack of Doom - 11c boulder move through a fixed pin to a 10+ crack.
The 10d traverse (sport) on No Start Wall is fun if you have just done Lost Arrow Spire (5.7 trad). Also check out Sea Biscuit (12c sport) if in the same general area.
the list goes on and on and on ...
have fun.
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brianinslc
Jun 2, 2005, 9:19 PM
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In reply to: I haven't been there for a long time so I don't remeber what wall or if it's open now but I remember having a blast on She's the Bosch-11.b and then to the right of that route is another real long 10.d(17 draws) and a nice 5.11 arete.
She's the Bosch is closed right now due to raptor nesting.
-Brian in SLC
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boadman
Jun 2, 2005, 10:01 PM
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Thanks guys! That'll probably keep me busy for this trip. If anyone's there, and see's a bright red diesel VW beetle, feel free to come shoot the shit/climb a bit.
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pt
Jun 3, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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Sudden Pleasure (sport)
Beware of Nesting Egos 11b (very cool mixed gear and bolts on Elephant rock)
Terror of Tiny Town (one bolt, then awesome laybacking)
Scar Tissue (thin crack, bring rps and very small cams)
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climbinganne
Jun 3, 2005, 4:00 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
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the pigmies got stoned... sport 1o???
glassy route...have fun 8^)
do it with a nice warm up trad on wheat thin 5.7
elephant rock
enjoy the city..campsite 43 is the best
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fredo
Jun 3, 2005, 2:23 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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I'll second (sic) Private Idaho, Colossus, and The Pygmies Got Stoned. I really love Fred Ramussen and the stuff mentioned on Elephant Rock. Have a good one
foimt
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boadman
Jun 6, 2005, 4:58 PM
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Hey guys, we had a great time at City of Rocks. That place is awesome, the rock quality is so high. We did:
Harvest, Loch Ness, Gemini, Calamari, Crack of Doom, Strategic defense, Thin Slice, and Collosus.
Great suggestions! We should add a recommended routes section to the routes database where people can put their favorite routes in an area by grade. Thanks!
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