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nuts_r_us
Apr 4, 2005, 3:19 AM
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In reply to: My first 5.12 was an onsite, it was Pig-pen 512b AF canyon, my feet kicked off 5 feet from the second to last bolt and i was on a two finger pocket, but the adrenaline must have kicked in because not only did i not fall but i found myself making the clip locked off, campus with one hand.
Whoa you are Super Rad.
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curt
Apr 4, 2005, 3:39 AM
Post #27 of 72
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In 1981 I did a couple of Devil's Lake routes that are now rated 5.12. Unfortunately for me, at the time, the latest guide book to the area (by Widule and Swartling) rated these climbs as 5.10. Well, I thought that 5.10 was supposed to be hard anyway, so I didn't think too much of it then. In retrospect it's pretty funny though.
Curt
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blowboarder
Apr 4, 2005, 1:58 PM
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In reply to: All respect has been lost now that your spurt climbing antics have been revealed.
Didn't realize I had earned any respect to lose.
In reply to: Cliiping bolts does not count as leading or "ONSIGHTING", you panty waist.
Agreed. I was just using the commonly "accepted" terminology. Let me be the first to admit that I've never sent a 5.12 trad route clean (lots of A0- tho) and since I don't "work" routes, probably never will.
But this is the "spurt climbing" forum.
In reply to: And clipping them at Red Rock is even lighter.
Double agreed. The ratings there are softer than the rock during the monsoons.
In reply to: Super Topo says hello and Nelson Munz says Ha ha!
Hello back to ST, only 10 more months. :lol:
Who's Nelson Munz?
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acacongua
Apr 4, 2005, 2:33 PM
Post #29 of 72
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Stay the Hand at Roadside, Red River Gorge. Accomplished one month ago!
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smellyhippie
Apr 4, 2005, 2:51 PM
Post #30 of 72
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Uhh, sorry, but Fear and Loathing III is no harder that 11c, no matter what the guidebook says. In most areas it would be 11b.
Nate
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viktor
Apr 4, 2005, 2:53 PM
Post #31 of 72
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I have yet to do one and do not even have one on the radar screen.
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blowboarder
Apr 4, 2005, 3:01 PM
Post #32 of 72
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In reply to: Uhh, sorry, but Fear and Loathing III is no harder that 11c, no matter what the guidebook says. In most areas it would be 11b. Nate
Same holds true for everything rated 12a at the sport crags of RR, IMO.
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boadman
Apr 4, 2005, 3:40 PM
Post #33 of 72
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Ditto for me - I was barely climbing 11s at rumney and I managed to onsight Sweet Pain. Red Rocks grades are the softest in the world. My ego was so crushed when I got back to Rumney and still sucked.
In reply to: I don't remember the first 12 I sent but I remember the first 12 I onsighted. Sweet Pain at Red Rocks. Which means it's probably more like 11a. :lol: :lol: I cruised thru the lower stuff to the crux, clipped the bolt, fiddled around, climbed up and down a couple times to a good but pumpy stance, was basically going to blow it with my normal indecision, when suddenly I hear "GO FOR IT DUDE. SEND IT!" I look behind me and see Dan Osman and Scott Cosgrove leading a group of about 15 guys (which I found out later were all Navy Seals that they guided on a regular basis) up the canyon. Dano yells again "SEND IT, YOU CAN DO IT!!". Figured "f--- it, I'm not gonna take in front of one of my hero's" and fired the moves to the anchor. Sent Sunny and Steep (Steep and Sunny?) second try later in the afternoon. It was a good day for me. :lol: |
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blowboarder
Apr 4, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #34 of 72
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In reply to: Ditto for me - I was barely climbing 11s at rumney and I managed to onsight Sweet Pain. Red Rocks grades are the softest in the world. My ego was so crushed when I got back to Rumney and still sucked.
Imagine the ego smacking punishment I felt by getting ass whupped on Supercrack a few days after my "hardest" onsite.
I mean really, it's only 10c, hehehehe.
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robbiehirsch
Apr 5, 2005, 5:48 PM
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wow! i didn't realize that the ratings were that soft... what do you think is a true 12a at RR?
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nowinowski
Apr 5, 2005, 6:25 PM
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sound and vision?
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joshklingbeil
Apr 6, 2005, 6:13 AM
Post #37 of 72
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Some 12c behind Mudslinger? I think it was called Bryerspatch? Asylum Az. I flashed a quite a few easy 12s at enchanted tower & Hacks canyon.
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bvb
Apr 6, 2005, 7:17 AM
Post #38 of 72
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1977.
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yanqui
Apr 6, 2005, 12:55 PM
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Crown of Thorns in Utah's Ferguson Canyon. I just got this bug up my ass one summer and worked the thing 'till it went. Of course this doesn't mean I don't frequently get my butt kicked when I try new 5.11s, especially at Balcarce's La Vigilancia.
In reply to: Imagine the ego smacking punishment I felt by getting ass whupped on Supercrack a few days after my "hardest" onsite. I mean really, it's only 10c, hehehehe.
Ha, you young'ens today. When I first did this thing about 15 years ago it was either rated 5.9+ or 5.10a, depending on the source. What's the world coming to?
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photon
Apr 6, 2005, 1:27 PM
Post #40 of 72
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Snake Dike in tuolumne
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fluxus
Apr 6, 2005, 7:29 PM
Post #41 of 72
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In reply to: wow! i didn't realize that the ratings were that soft... what do you think is a true 12a at RR?
I'd give The Trophy at the trophy wall 5.12a. Its 5.12c in the book.
The Gift is reasonable at 5.12b
My first 5.12 was Cheeba Patrol at Lost City in the gunk 1986.
cheers
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screamer
Apr 6, 2005, 7:52 PM
Post #42 of 72
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Lower part of heinous cling, i think back in 98...
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mattmax45
Jun 3, 2005, 5:33 AM
Post #43 of 72
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Camouflage, Eldo Canyon, this I believe was my first rated 5.12, I got it on an onsight, but not with out my toes going completly numb from trying to figure out the delicate sequence, on match stick edges, its a vertical edging route.
Spray over.
Later Matt :)
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kachoong
Jun 3, 2005, 6:05 AM
Post #44 of 72
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In reply to: I have no idea what the first .12 I redpointed was. I know the first one I flashed was the lower part of heinous cling... I've never had much patience for working routes, redpointing is more often my second or third try after I screw up an onsight attempt...
^^Pretty much what the other Dave said.... my first 12 redpoint (2nd try)was the first part of Heinous Cling (12a) quite a few years ago. I also don't like to work routes much. If I don't get it on the onsight, I'll try again from the ground up and if not, I'll come back another day.
First onsight 12a is yet to come....
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 3, 2005, 6:11 AM
Post #45 of 72
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Pirahna, in Kings Canyon Nat Park.
5.12a
Redpoint
Nailed it on my 6month climbing anniversary :)
kinda lame^ but whatever...seemed cool at the time...
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korntera
Jun 3, 2005, 7:45 AM
Post #46 of 72
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I don't know the name of the first 5.12 I redpointed, probably because it wasn't real and it was in my dreams...
5.12 after a year? Damn It, why can't that be me. I train my ass off and I am top roping high 10's and i have climbed for a year and 3 months. Another guy I talked to a few weeks ago had been climbing for 9 months and just got done hangdogging Chain Reaction 5.12C at smith rock.
-Travis
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hangerlessbolt
Jun 3, 2005, 12:30 PM
Post #47 of 72
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In reply to: [ Incinerator 5.12a at Holcomb Valley Pinnacles is another .12 I've tried a few times, and no RP on that one either.
Which is just ODD that you haven't picked up the RP on that thing
I've seen you on it a couple of times...the last time looking positively stellar...have the moves wired...then *pop*...you ripped off a key hold
LoL
I've never led .12a...I've TR'd three...none of them saw a clean ascent. I'm not one for working routes as projects. I would say that had I done so...when I was climbing at my strongest...I would have likely pulled one off.
My best friend's been working on one for years. (which pissed him off that I could have climbed his project)...I've just never had that kind of determination for a grade.
I'm working back into the .11 range (sport) now. We'll see how far I get.
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hangerlessbolt
Jun 3, 2005, 12:35 PM
Post #48 of 72
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In reply to: 5.12 after a year? Damn It, why can't that be me. I train my ass off and I am top roping high 10's and i have climbed for a year and 3 months. -Travis
You?.?.?
I've been climbing since the late 80's! lol
Like I tell most folks...
"I don't climb hard I just climb often"
or
"I climb really hard...I just do it on EEEAAASSSYYY routes"
Cheers-
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bigjonnyc
Jun 3, 2005, 12:45 PM
Post #49 of 72
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I flashed Non-existent 5.12b(s), at Imaginary Crag outside of Gotham City, or what it Metropolis, I can't remember. :wink:
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dew4theq
Jun 3, 2005, 12:48 PM
Post #50 of 72
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 27
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My first 5.12 was at Sexwall in Pennsylvania. I used to frequent that place a lot back in the late 90's. I believe the route was called "Swingtime".
Since then I've sent a number of 12s at the New River Gorge. Just to name a few:
Control 5.12A
Reckless Abandon 5.12B/C
Tobacco Road 5.12B
Tatoo 5.12A
As far as training to get to that level, all I can say is be persistent and motivated. The more motivation one has, the more driven one will be to become strong. But most importantly, don't give up on it. If you strive to climb 5.12 and have the proper motivation, there will be nothing standing in your way to get there. It also helps a lot to have a good, regular climbing partner who is driven to send hard routes too. Then what ends up happening is you end up pushing each other's limits.
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