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freeskicolorado
Jun 9, 2005, 11:56 PM
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Is there anywhere somewhat near the cliffs at Mocanaqua, PA to camp? I'm thinking of making a weekend trip there sometime soonish. Also, what gear is needed to set up most of the topropes? Any trad climbs that can be protected with pieces 1" and under? Any other tips for someone who has never been there before?
Thanks,
Jeff
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freeskicolorado
Jun 29, 2005, 11:05 AM
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bump.... it's getting closer to the time I'm planning to go, any help?
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fishbelly
Jun 29, 2005, 12:27 PM
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Do a search on Pa state parks
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freeskicolorado
Jun 30, 2005, 12:53 AM
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The closest state park with camping is 45 minutes away (according to mapquest). I was hoping for something a bit closer. Like, does anybody know if camping on the land the cliffs are on is allowed?
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gblauer
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Jun 30, 2005, 1:19 AM
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I think we stayed at council cup campground
COUNCIL CUP CAMPGROUND
212 Ruckle Hill Rd. • Wapwallopen, PA 18660
(570) 379-2566• Campground No. 301
In the Pennsylvania Poconos, this campground offers 69 full hookup sites and 156 with water and electricity only. With 15, 20, and 30 amp electrical receptacles, air conditioners and heaters are allowed, for a fee. Tent camping is offered. Additional facilities include: RV storage, flush toilets, hot showers, sewage disposal, laundry, public phone, tables, and fire rings. There is a limited grocery store. Ice and wood are available. Recreational amenities include: recreation room, pavilion, arcade games, rowboat and canoe rental, stream fishing, playground, badminton, horseshoes, hiking trails, and volleyball. From the junction of I-80 and Hwy. 93, go 3 and 3/4 miles north on Hwy. 93, then 5 miles northwest on Hwy 239, then 1 mile north on paved road.
I remember it was reasonably close to the cliffs.
There are sport climbs and some trad climbs. I don't think the sport climbs were super easy...they seemed to start at 5.10+.
We were not tradding at the time, but I do recall some trad routes.
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davidcollins
Jun 30, 2005, 1:58 PM
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In reply to: Is there anywhere somewhat near the cliffs at Mocanaqua, PA to camp? I'm thinking of making a weekend trip there sometime soonish. Also, what gear is needed to set up most of the topropes? Any trad climbs that can be protected with pieces 1" and under? Any other tips for someone who has never been there before?
I can't answer your camping questions since Mocanaqua is a day trip for me. Regarding gear set ups, it depends on the cliff at which you climb. The three main areas are the Main Wall (mixed), Paradise (trad and mixed) and the Library (mostly sport).
At the Main wall, the top is easily accessible and forested; mostly you will just need plenty of long slings to set up a top rope. There are several old style bolted routes starting at 5.9 (sandbag!) - the gaps between bolts are larger than typical sport areas and some of the hardware is quite old.
Paradise is unique in that it is surrounded by a coal slag heap. It's not the most appealing environment and is exposed and faces south so it can be brutal in the summer. There are some nice routes there though. None of the routes is easily accessible (if at all) from the top which is a sloping mess of coal slag so you will have to lead here. However, there are several easy (5.6 and under) trad routes with decent gear. I usually end up using something larger than 1" but you could probably get by without these. There are also several mixed routes with some bizarre bolt placements - they tend to be in the 5.10 and higher range. Quite a few routes are equipped with good bolt anchors.
The Library is across an immense coal slag pile but don't let the hike in dissuade you as it's a pleasant destination. It consists of two detached blocks separated from their parent cliff face by a shady corridor. All host bolted routes from 5.6 to 5.12. Unless you are up for an exposed and risky scramble, you will have to lead at least one route on a detached block to set anything up. The bolts are mostly new and closely spaced but the anchor situation is strange. Each block does have at least one set of rap hangers but little else for anchors. One or two routes end at spots with decent gear placements but several require "creative" anchor construction. There is one easy trad route on one block that can be done entirely with stoppers. There is another route that looks moderate that you can probably do with gear less than 1". There are more bolted sport routes on the parent cliff here and you can access the top via a contorted scramble and use the trees for anchors. It's pretty straightforward.
At either Paradise or the Library you can expect to hear dirt bikes and ATVs all afternoon.
Contact me if you would like more detailed beta.
David
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roclimb
Jul 1, 2005, 2:38 AM
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Be forewarned some deufus has chopped all the anchors we have put in over the years at the library. Whoever did it should know they will be put back in soon. If they are removed again we will put in 4-bolt anchors on top just to make them harder to chop, I have two drills, lots of bolts and lots of time.
~rob
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bobd1953
Jul 1, 2005, 3:20 AM
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Rob, use glue-in.
I think there is some good camping (free) on the road to Hawk Rock. Take the road that goes over the RR tracks from the parking area. Come to a T after a 1.5 miles. Take the left and find a spot to camp.
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davidcollins
Jul 1, 2005, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: Be forewarned some deufus has chopped all the anchors we have put in over the years at the library. Whoever did it should know they will be put back in soon. If they are removed again we will put in 4-bolt anchors on top just to make them harder to chop, I have two drills, lots of bolts and lots of time. ~rob
Are all the anchors gone now? I was last there about a month ago and there were still some anchors on the freestanding blocks. On the right block (viewed from inside the corridor) there was one rap set above the overhanging face but that which was at the top of the easy flake route had been removed. On the left block there was on set of rap hangers on the small north facing wall. However, the two routes at the very left end both had no hangers.
David Collins
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davidcollins
Sep 6, 2005, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Be forewarned some deufus has chopped all the anchors we have put in over the years at the library. Whoever did it should know they will be put back in soon. If they are removed again we will put in 4-bolt anchors on top just to make them harder to chop, I have two drills, lots of bolts and lots of time. ~rob Are all the anchors gone now? I was last there about a month ago and there were still some anchors on the freestanding blocks. On the right block (viewed from inside the corridor) there was one rap set above the overhanging face but that which was at the top of the easy flake route had been removed. On the left block there was on set of rap hangers on the small north facing wall. However, the two routes at the very left end both had no hangers. David Collins
Just an update. I was there on 3 September and the anchor situation was exactly as I had described in the message quoted above.
David Collins
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roclimb
Sep 6, 2005, 11:25 PM
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Thanks for the update. I was relying on info someone else told me about the anchors. It sounds like only a few are gone then. If I get a chance I will replace them.
~Rob
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