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crimpandgo
Jun 25, 2005, 12:58 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Apr 15, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: Can you back this on up with factual data? My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side. So, right after you ask someone else for factual data, you "vote" on some totally baseless, as well as incorrect, opinion? Hey look, I can make up wrong answers and look stupid! Better tie on another belay loop for redundancy! Clown.
My original post was meant to be humorous you dumb*ss. It should have been obvious I wasn't attempting to answer the question.
I did ask a question originally. add data to back up statements. Dingus's write up about the bent gate problems also sais that the straight gate is subject to the same problem (just less likely). He bases this on geometry
So, I ask the question. Is the problem of the gate opening really due to the shape of the gate (bent vs. straight)? or is the shape of the biner? I recall performing this test with two different draws and did not, in my own test see the difference between the bent gate and straight gate. I questioned, as dingus put it, the geometry. Which depending on the biner design could make straight gates just as vulnerable depending on shape.
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crimpandgo
Jun 25, 2005, 1:02 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Apr 15, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: Oh, P.S. If I do have to read your benign critical crap posts, then I think I will keep posting my "thoughts" just to piss you off. Its kinda fun :) Your use of quotation marks above is the first thing you've ever written that I agree with. -Jay P.S. You need to look up the word "benign."
No, actually i used it the way I intended. Widen your breadth of understanding a little.
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jt512
Jun 25, 2005, 5:49 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Oh, P.S. If I do have to read your benign critical crap posts, then I think I will keep posting my "thoughts" just to piss you off. Its kinda fun :) Your use of quotation marks above is the first thing you've ever written that I agree with. -Jay P.S. You need to look up the word "benign." No, actually i used it the way I intended.
Obviously you used the word the way you intended, just like you used "rats-ass" and "extra redundancy."
What's it like to wander through life completely clueless about your own complete cluelessness?
-Jay
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climboard
Jun 25, 2005, 8:54 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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In reply to: " Straight gate biners are the least likely to catch on the hanger and unclip from the bolt accidentally" Can you back this on up with factual data? My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side.
This is common knowledge that can be verified easily by trying it out yourself or taking the time to do a little research. I am not sure why you would ask for factual data without doing the research yourself or explaining why you don't agree, other than laziness. What the hell, I've got a few minutes, I'll play along.
From the Black Diamond website under Carabiner Tech Tips-
"Bent gate biners traditionally are used on the rope end of draws becuase (sic) their shape makes them easier to clip a rope in to. Straight gate beiners typically are used on the bolt hanger or protection end of a draw, as they are the least susceptible to unclipping inadvertantly."
From Rock and Ice issue 128-
http://www.rockandice.com/gear/128/gear.128.html
"BENT VERSUS STRAIGHT GATES Bent-gate biners are typically easier to clip than straight gates, suiting them for the rope-end of the draw. Bent gates, however, are more likely to unclip themselves from your protection. For these reasons, most climbers prefer a straight-gate carabiner on the protection end of the draw, and a bent-gate on the rope end. In situations where rope-to-protection security is critical, such as first- and second-bolt clips, using a draw with straight-gate carabiners on both ends is wise."
From REI's carabiner gear guide-
"Bent-gate -- Bent-gate 'biners have concave gates designed to make clipping into protection easier. The bent-gate design does not significantly affect the 'biner's strength or its weight. But if not used properly, bent-gate 'biners can unclip from your rope. As with any other kind of climbing equipment, you must learn how to use bent-gate 'biners correctly in order to be safe.
NOTE: Bent gate carabiners should only be used on the end of the quickdraw or runner which the rope clips into. Never clip them directly to the protection."
In reply to: I did ask a question originally. add data to back up statements. Dingus's write up about the bent gate problems also sais that the straight gate is subject to the same problem (just less likely). He bases this on geometry
I was going to include Dingus's post but I see you already referenced it, supporting my original statement.
Now please provide some factual data to backup your "vote".
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flipnfall
Jun 25, 2005, 10:44 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: May 18, 2004
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Climboard, excellent research! It's what I had said, but your post has made it much more authoritative.
Thanks!
GT
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ikefromla
Jun 25, 2005, 11:01 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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catfights are hot.
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cardiffclimber
Jun 26, 2005, 12:57 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: May 29, 2005
Posts: 15
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micronut wrote:
another reason to have different biners on your draws is this: the bolt end biner on the draw can and does get burred with little pieces of metal resulting from metal to metal contact with the bolt hanger, and these can damage a rope sheath.
for this reason, i use different biners on my draws/runners. the quick draws were packaged with straight gate and bent gate and the literature specifies the bent gate is for the rope, and in my opinion, easier to clip a rope. my runners are straight gate and wire gate. the wire gate for the rope end. the wire gate is not as susceptible to "gate flutter" as a straight or bent gate biner and is less likely to fail.
there are times when i clip hangers with runners and pro with draws, but they are few. i check my gear pretty frequently. if i see a biner with a gnarly burr on it, it becomes a paper weight or a key chain.
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cardiffclimber
Jun 26, 2005, 1:34 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: May 29, 2005
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because i'm new? sorry, it won't happen again.
btw, did you read all three pages?
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dirtineye
Jun 26, 2005, 2:02 AM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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In reply to: because i'm new? sorry, it won't happen again. btw, did you read all three pages?
It's not your fault.
Sadly, yes.
Suddenly I feel this urge to clip bolts...
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