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sul-pont
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Jun 28, 2005, 11:35 AM
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I’m looking to fill the gap between the red Alien and the green Camalot and am not sure which will be best, the purple Camalot or the orange Alien.
I seem to recall some talk of Aliens larger than red being prone to walking. Any advice from those who have used this gear? I want to be armed with a bit of info before heading to the gear shop.
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climbinginchico
Jun 28, 2005, 11:38 AM
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The orange alien is almost the same exact size as the .75 (green) camalot or C4. The purple (.5) Camalot is almost exactly the same size as the red alien. There isn't really that much of a gap there. I have both .5 and .75 C4's and red and orange aliens. They all work well.
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mistertyler
Jun 28, 2005, 1:01 PM
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The orange alien is definitely closer in size to the .75 Camalot. I've never had walking issues with it and sometimes it will fit where no Camalot will, so I love the piece. It's also lighter than the .75, which is nice.
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sul-pont
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Jun 28, 2005, 4:40 PM
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I guess I should rephrase the question: What cam fits nicely between the red Alien and Green Camalot?
It just seems like the green Camalot is too bulky to get into places a little too big for the red Alien. Perhaps I just need a narrower cam, which would suggest the orange Alien.
I’ve geeked out with a little research here and compiled some cam ranges (min/max, in mm):
Red (1) Alien (1): 20/33
Purple (.5) Camalot: 19.6/33.3
Purple (3) Flex Cam: 20/28
Purple (1.5) Tech Friend: 23/35
Green (4) Flex Cam: 24/35
Green (1.75) Tech Friend: 25/41
Orange (1.5) Alien: 26/41
Green (.75) Camalot: 24/41
So, although it would seem a nice overlap between the cams I’ve got, I still get stuck.
I’m planning on bringing my red Alien and green Camalot to the shop and will do my best to fool around with the cam candidates when I’m there, I just don’t want to get stuck with a piece that, of course, I can’t return.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 4:44 PM
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There's a DMM or WC in the size you're looking for. I think maybe the 1.75? I think it's red in DMM. Could also be the 1.5...
Don't have it myself, I've gotten by just fine w/.5 and .75 camalots.
Also, the DMM cams are only 30 bucks right now at REI.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 4:47 PM
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That's interesting, I just looked at your little 'geek chart.' I always thought the DMM/WC 2.0 was the equivalent to the .75 camalot.
Anyway, here's the link to the DMMs. http://www.rei.com/...EI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC
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gunksgoer
Jun 28, 2005, 4:48 PM
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Try the #4 Metolius tcu. It slightly larger than the red alien/ .5 camalot, and still has a narrow headwidth. The same size powercam could also work, but youd have to make the width vs stability call.
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mattm
Jun 28, 2005, 6:43 PM
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The WC 1.5 fits in this area too - little bigger than a Red Alien - Little smaller than the .75 camalot
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omerdimsum
Jun 28, 2005, 6:56 PM
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My 2 cents:
Do yourself a favor and invest in the .5 camalot instead of the orange alien.
.5 camalot almost always fits somewhere on the route (usually at key places) and can really take the falls.
The orange alien is a good piece (when it fits). However, I personally believe .5 Camalot fits more often AND seems more secure when I am on the sharp end of the rope.
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cedk
Jun 28, 2005, 7:17 PM
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Omer D.: What area is this where the purple camalot works so often? I find that I'm often disappointed with mine and usually end up wishing for a narrower piece. I'm getting a red and orange Metolius.
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estwing
Jun 28, 2005, 8:18 PM
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Hi there,
As someone who up until last week had a similar problem I must second gunksgoer's advice about the red #4 metolius tcu. I found that there was a gap between my red alien and my green 1.75 friend. The DMM and WC 1.5 size fills this gap, as does the metolius. Go with whatever is least expensive. For me it was the tcu. I am pleased with it.
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mrtristan
Jun 30, 2005, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: What area is this where the purple camalot works so often? I find that I'm often disappointed with mine and usually end up wishing for a narrower piece. I'm getting a red and orange Metolius.
I love my purple camalot and use it all the time. I trad on granite and quartzite.
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gunksgoer
Jun 30, 2005, 5:02 AM
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In reply to: Hi there, As someone who up until last week had a similar problem I must second gunksgoer's advice about the red #4 metolius tcu. I found that there was a gap between my red alien and my green 1.75 friend. The DMM and WC 1.5 size fills this gap, as does the metolius. Go with whatever is least expensive. For me it was the tcu. I am pleased with it.
There will soon be an alien in that size too...
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njari
Jun 30, 2005, 6:18 AM
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Another vote for the camalot. I almost never leave the deck without doubles of .5 and .75--It seems like every route around here swallows 'em up. More specifically, I don't recall ever needing an intermediate size.
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sul-pont
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Jun 30, 2005, 1:08 PM
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[quote="gunksgoer"][quote="estwing"]Hi there,
As someone who up until last week had a similar problem I must second gunksgoer's advice about the red #4 metolius tcu. I found that there was a gap between my red alien and my green 1.75 friend. The DMM and WC 1.5 size fills this gap, as does the metolius. Go with whatever is least expensive. For me it was the tcu. I am pleased with it.
There will soon be an alien in that size too...
Really? I might have to put in an advance order at Rock and Snow in that case! Where did you get wind of this and do you know when it might be out? Perhaps this will be like the grey Alien -- a great addition to the set between yellow and red.
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yetanotherdave
Jun 30, 2005, 1:41 PM
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In reply to: Another vote for the camalot.
I have doubles of .4 and triples of .5 & .75 - I trust them more than aliens.
Really, I think I trust my TCUs more than aliens, for some reason the aliens just don't seem to grab the rock the same way to me... I know that's considered heresy here, but I prefer the TCUs for free-climbing. Aliens sure are nice for marginal aid placements, tho.
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