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theishofoz
Jul 19, 2005, 7:06 PM
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heylooo my friend is a wuss and doesnt like the feeling of crack climbing, but he likes to climb hard. he was wondering if there are any routes rated .12 and up in the donner summit area that dont require any crack climbing, so that he can say he climbed .12 on gear.
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caughtinside
Jul 19, 2005, 7:25 PM
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Go to lovers leap. You put pro in the cracks, but the majority of the moves are on face holds.
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nthusiastj
Jul 19, 2005, 7:25 PM
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Sounds like a cool guy. I always like to look for routes that play to my strength so I can spray how I climb hard.
Trad and crack go together. You place gear in cracks! The good thing is on a trad 12 the cracks are so small that they are more like edges (therefore more like sport). He should be able to find something.
Good luck learning to place small gear on 12 trad.
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theishofoz
Jul 19, 2005, 7:29 PM
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he already knows how to place pro and climb trad, but as you said he also wants to be able to spray about climbing hard. i know that there are a few face climbing, trad protected 12 and up climbs at donner. i already know about donner, but i am specifically asking about donner summit area. thanks for the replies.
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crackmd
Jul 19, 2005, 8:17 PM
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I agree. Your friend is a wuss.
The front of Snowshed Wall has some hard crackclimbs that climb more like faceclimbs. Monkey Paws (12a) and Panic in Detroit (12c) would both be worthy of major spray if your buddy is able to send them.
Take him to Jailhouse. Sounds like he'll feel more at home there.
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theishofoz
Jul 20, 2005, 4:28 AM
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he climbs at jailhouse quite often, if you must know. thank you for the replies
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angry
Jul 20, 2005, 5:35 AM
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Find a 5.9 offwidth and tell him to lieback up it. It'll feel about 5.12
Your friend is both a wuss and a pus
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melekzek
Jul 20, 2005, 9:42 AM
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In reply to: Trad and crack go together
you might be forgetting limestone
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nthusiastj
Jul 20, 2005, 7:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Trad and crack go together you might be forgetting limestone
Bolted cracks = wrong
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maculated
Jul 20, 2005, 7:14 PM
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It's hard breaking the habit, may I suggest your friend switch to speed? Or the more toned-down coke?
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crackmd
Jul 20, 2005, 8:43 PM
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I've been thinking about it, and there really are very few routes that fit your description (gear protected with minimal crackclimbing). I am amazed at how many responses you have gotten which fail to address your original question. Aside from the ones I already mentioned (Monkey Paws and Panic in Detroit), there is Manic Depression (11d) which has some jamming/fingerlocking but is predominantly leaning off thin cracks and faceholds. By the way, I think (heard a rumor) that Panic in Detroit has seen only one onsight ascent by Ron Kauk.
With a little dedication, someone who climbs as strong as your buddy can be tearing up some of the finest crackclimbs around. Once you can climb 5.11/5.12 crack the world is your oyster. Long awesome splitters in Yosemite, Needles, Indian Creek, Devil's Tower (to name a few) will be possible and you will never have to wait in line for them. It was always my goal to not have to drive past awesome areas because I couldn't climb them (i.e. driving past Indian Creek to get to Rifle). Do it all. It's all awesome!
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youreup
Jul 20, 2005, 9:12 PM
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In reply to: The front of Snowshed Wall has some hard crackclimbs that climb more like faceclimbs. Monkey Paws (12a) and Panic in Detroit (12c) would both be worthy of major spray if your buddy is able to send them.
Monkey Paws still requires good finger locks through the roof. Forget about Snowshed, tell your boy to lead Father's Day on gear, then spray.
In reply to: Take him to Jailhouse. Sounds like he'll feel more at home there.
Hell, tell him to lead those routes on gear as well. There are plenty of fractures that take gear and the columns at the base of the main routes take great gear too.
Oh yeah, your boy is lame.
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flipnfall
Jul 20, 2005, 9:15 PM
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S.D. Needles (Sylvan Lake area) would probably be a good example of trad on bolts. It's certainly not very sporty to run-out 50 feet on some of the climbs.
GT
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elvislegs
Jul 20, 2005, 9:28 PM
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hey everyone! sean here.
does anyone have any great recommendations for some kick ass non-alchoholic beer? you see, i have this friend who likes to do pointless things...
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crackmd
Jul 20, 2005, 9:39 PM
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[quote="youreup"]
Monkey Paws still requires good finger locks through the roof. Forget about Snowshed, tell your boy to lead Father's Day on gear, then spray.
In reply to: I agree. I just figured that this is close as Donner gets to what this dude is asking for. If there are too many fingerlocks and foot jams on it for this princess then so be it.
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abbysomebody
Jul 20, 2005, 10:27 PM
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is this guy serious? um, what is it again, oh yeah i believe the word i'm looking for is tool!
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dustinap
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Jul 21, 2005, 7:13 AM
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I am the friend that Robbie, The Ish of Oz, posted for. First of all, I would like to thank CrackMD for his serious responses. They will be useful when I find the nerve to try these routes.
As far as being a wuss, I guess I am. I climb because it’s fun. Last time I checked, there is nothing wrong with that. I climb what I find fun, and if that is different then what you enjoy, that is part of life. You should be happy, it means the climbs that you want to get on aren’t going to have as long of a line.
As far as my trad climbing ability, yeah it sucks. I don’t put the effort into it. My normal trad climbing that I do is several number grades below what I am asking about here. It is what I enjoy, so I might as well do it.
As far as my climbing goes, I am very honest. I don’t say I can do things that I cannot. I want to try and do a harder trad climb for a personal accomplishment. My sole reason isn’t to spray. Infact, I often don’t even answer people when they ask what grades I climb. My answer is that it simply depends, because it is true. I tell my good friend about my projects, I don’t go around spraying stuff to people.
Off of this website I have climbed with many members. They can all vouch for me, and that I don’t say that I can do things that I cannot actually do. If you noticed, I’m looking for recommendations on what I should try. I’m looking for what is fun, and would work well for my personal accomplishment. Maybe I’ll get shut down, maybe I’ll do well. I don’t know.
As far as posting about pointless stuff, and being a tool. I don’t know, that is simply up to opinion. This is a web forum about climbing. This topic is relevant to climbing, that sounds like it has a point to me. Once again, I would like to thank those who have posted information that is useful in this thread.
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nowinowski
Jul 21, 2005, 1:06 PM
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after reading this post I'm wondering if climbing trad at seneca makes me a big tool too. Cracks are usually mentally easier than faces -- so -- cut this guy some slack, if he wants to learn to climb cracks he'll do it in his own sweet time.
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crackmd
Jul 21, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Dustinap. You seem like a way cooler person than your friend makes you out to be. Next time you are in SoCal let me know. I will climb face or cracks with you. Have fun at Donner.
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dustinap
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Jul 21, 2005, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: Dustinap. You seem like a way cooler person than your friend makes you out to be. Next time you are in SoCal let me know. I will climb face or cracks with you. Have fun at Donner.
That sounds great! There is a ton of climbing down in SoCal that I would love try. I have some family living down there now, but they don't climb. When I go to visit I will be sure to let you know.
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bler
Jul 21, 2005, 6:43 PM
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I climb with Dustin, and this post is true form of the community here on RC.com, quick to jump on people and put them down...
Dustin is an awesome person to climb with; bouldering, trad, sport.. whatver it is, he climbs hard, just because he doesn't climb the exact same style as some others, does not mean he is a 'tool'.. it just means he is looking to expand his climbing abilities in a safe enviroment and used RC.com for reference..
chill out guys..
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melekzek
Jul 22, 2005, 1:29 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Trad and crack go together you might be forgetting limestone Bolted cracks = wrong
lol, you got it wrong. I meant trad climbing on limestone, not sport climbing on limestone crack.....
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abbysomebody
Aug 23, 2005, 6:09 PM
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Dustin, perhaps you didn't read your friend's original post:
In reply to: heylooo my friend is a wuss and doesnt like the feeling of crack climbing, but he likes to climb hard. he was wondering if there are any routes rated .12 and up in the donner summit area that dont require any crack climbing, so that he can say he climbed .12 on gear.
and his second post wasn't much better:
In reply to: he also wants to be able to spray about climbing hard.
Do you see how anyone reading that would think you were an idiot? You sound way cooler in your post than as presented by your friend, so you might want to stick to asking your own questions from now on.
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