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crankenstein
Jul 22, 2005, 5:07 AM
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Anyone climb extensively around White Rock, NM? I know that there are several basalt crags there. Any recommendations to the best crags and lines, both trad and sport?
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sonso45
Jul 22, 2005, 5:56 AM
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I have climbed the Playground. It is awesome. Lot of clean cracks but not much for sport climbing.
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crackmd
Jul 22, 2005, 7:27 AM
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I have spent 2-days at the Overlook. I highly recommend it. It is a great mix of crack and face climbs. The approach is short and easy and all of the routes have anchors for easy lowering/toproping. It is a great place to get bunches of pitches in. It gets afternoon shade so a late start is manditory this time of year. My recommendations for the crag are Cholla Crack (9), Thorazine Dream (11d), Face Off (12a), Len's Roof (11a). There are many more good climbs there. Have fun!
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moonshine505
Jul 22, 2005, 1:48 PM
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Not sure when you're looking to use the newfound information on the Overlook, but New Mexico basalt, especially at the sunny Overlook, will radiate heat like the surface of the sun in July. If you're looking to climb there now, I'd advise against it.
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crankenstein
Jul 22, 2005, 3:01 PM
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Thanks for the info guys! I'm planning to visit a friend there in the fall, so I thought I would be proactive and get some beta on the best climbs so that I could be efficient when I'm there. Anybody else have personal favorites in the area that shouldn't be missed by a visitor?
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crankenstein
Jul 22, 2005, 3:51 PM
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Edited to remove double post.
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crackmd
Jul 22, 2005, 4:00 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the info guys! I'm planning to visit a friend there in the fall, so I thought I would be proactive and get some beta on the best climbs so that I could be efficient when I'm there. Anybody else have personal favorites in the area that shouldn't be missed by a visitor?
El Rito is an awesome crag about 1-hour from Santa Fe. The climbing is on cobbles similar to Maple in Utah. It is much smaller than Maple, but the climbing is just as good. It is in a beautiful, secluded area. Leave all but quickdraws in the car. The Rad Wall is one of the finest single sportclimbing cliffs I have ever climbed on. There is a great guide which you can link through this site.
BTW. Someone earlier said that the Overlook is unclimbable this time of year. I climbed there on a 98 degree day in May starting at 2pm when the crag was in the shade. We climbed till dark. I did 10 pitches and the temps were fine. Even onsighted some hard crimpy face stuff. Just another perspective.
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jcinco
Jul 22, 2005, 4:15 PM
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The Overlook is good, but I think the best crag in White Rock is "Below the Old New Place". As the name says, its located below The Old New Place. The crag is a lttle smaller than the Overlook, but it's less crowded and the pitches are all high quality. It has several great sport pitches, including Monsterpiece Theatre (12a) and several quality arete climbs (Wailing Banshees, 11b/c is the classic). It also has a couple great trad lines, including Manic Crack (5.11).
The Old New Place, The Y, and the Playground are less pocketed, and kind of shorter, poorman's Paradise Forks.
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crackmd
Jul 22, 2005, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: The Overlook is good, but I think the best crag in White Rock is "Below the Old New Place". As the name says, its located below The Old New Place. The crag is a lttle smaller than the Overlook, but it's less crowded and the pitches are all high quality. It has several great sport pitches, including Monsterpiece Theatre (12a) and several quality arete climbs (Wailing Banshees, 11b/c is the classic). It also has a couple great trad lines, including Manic Crack (5.11). The Old New Place, The Y, and the Playground are less pocketed, and kind of shorter, poorman's Paradise Forks.
I must check it out on my next trip out there. Sounds Awesome!
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blomster
Jul 22, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2005
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There's a LOT of climbing to be found in White Rock. My favorite is the Overlook and the Playground is a close second. The Overlook has some good sport lines, easy top-roping, and some good cracks for trad.
El Rito sport area (http://naclassics.com/elrito/) is an awesome sport climbing area! Just fantastic. And there's a trad area too, with some mutlipitch stuff, but I've only been there once.
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couch_climber
Jul 22, 2005, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
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Moonshine -
It's been quite a while since I was there, but doesn't the surface of the sun produce heat as opposed to radiate it?
Sorry, rough day at work & had to post it...
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moonshine505
Jul 22, 2005, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Since you're having a bad day by your own admission, I won't be too much of an ass. Radiation is a method of heat transfer, the only possible kind in the vacuum of space. So, yes, the sun produces heat through thermonuclear burning, but the only reason we can feel it is because of radiation heat transfer.
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phaedrus
Jul 22, 2005, 7:55 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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