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rampage
Aug 10, 2005, 9:31 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Apr 16, 2003
Posts: 7
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My partner and I are looking to do the North Arete on Blacksmith Peak car-to-car in a day and I'm looking for (1) beta on the approach hike and (2) beta on current snow/ice conditions at the base and descent via Glacier Col. Is an ice axe recommended?
I've climbed the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk and made the approach via Robinson Creek.
I've climbed Matterhorn Peak via the Horse Creek trail.
I've read John Moynier's write-up in Rock and Ice No. 73 and he recommended: "From the Horse Creek bridge, follow a steep climbers' trail up and west into the rugged Blacksmith Canyon, staying to the south of the jumbled debris of an obvious avalanche runout at the junction of the two forks of Blacksmith Creek. Follow the west fork of the creek to Glacier Lake, and hike up to the small glacier at the base of the route. "
Still others have not recommended the Blacksmith Canyon approach saying it is a loose, steep, sandy bushwhack.
Any beta would be appreciated. Thanks.
Dan
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rocknroll
Aug 11, 2005, 6:34 AM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 111
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I did the North Arete several years ago. We went from the Bridge and bushwacked across the slope and diagonalled up into Blacksmith Canyon. On the return we went straight down to the trail n the bottom of the valley. We decided that it probably was better to stay in the valley and just make a direct line up into Blacksmith Canyon for the approach.
About halfway up Blacksmith Canyon on the south side, is an amazing crag shaped like the Forum. Instead of colums it has dihedrals with crack after crack. Splitters, hand cracks. Looks beautiful That would be worth a day right there.
Expect snow. That Canyon doesn't get a whole lot of sun. If you are travelling when it is soft, no axe needed,
The North Arete, as it was originally climbed by Jules Eichorn or David Brower or one of them old farts, does not climb directly onto the the ridge. We climbed directly up the ridge from its base at 5.9. The rest of it is 4th class.
Good Luck
The Chossman
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