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el_cap
Aug 18, 2005, 3:07 AM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2004
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I was just wondering if I need to pick up any more pro in the wedge/hex area.
I have a BD stopper set #1-#13 and BD hexes #1-#10
My question is, should I pick up a set of Metolious Curved Nuts? They are a pretty good price. Also, are there any certain hexes that I need more than one of?
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trenchdigger
Aug 18, 2005, 3:29 AM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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My answer...
You can always use more pro.
The correct answer...
Sounds like you've got plenty, but it depends entirely on what you're doing (it sounds like you may not even know), as well as how and where you climb.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 18, 2005, 3:36 AM
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you should find that thread about the virtual rack website thing...that thing was pretty helpful for this type of question. you enter your gear, and it returns a chart which tells you which sizes you have covered by how many pieces, and what sizes you're lacking...
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salamanizer
Aug 18, 2005, 4:03 AM
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When the time comes that you really need something, you'll know what you want/need...Save your money for that day.
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tanner
Aug 18, 2005, 4:43 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
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That sound like plenty of passive pro.
I climb most squamish granite and I find it nice to have a set of nuts size 3 and up. Most of the time I don't take the largests nuts with me, X2 for some of the small to mid sizes. If I need really small stuff I use RP's but thats not to common. Other wise a good set of cams will take you a long way. I use TCU's for the small stuff and camalots for the larger stuff.
My nomal free rack is #1 TCU up to a #3 camalot. Its a good range of sizes and adds up to about 10 cams.
Good luck
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ricardol
Aug 18, 2005, 8:38 AM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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I climb in yosemite ..
for trad i have:
1 set of nuts
2x set of cams
sometimes i throw the 3 smallest tricams (trango)
that rack works for 95% of all the routes i've done in yosemite, and red rocks. (lead at 5.9) ..
================
if you want to get into aid .. then you'll need more gear .. for trad .. 1set of nuts + cams is enough.
==========
in case you're interested .. my aid rack is
2 sets of micronuts
2 sets of nuts
2 sets of hybrid aliens
2 sets of aliens (up to orange)
3 sets of camalots (#1 to #3)
plus a shitload of other stuff.
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tisar
Aug 18, 2005, 9:34 AM
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If you wanna go for more passives, try out the smaller TriCams. They are a nice (and affordable) addition to the mid-sized pieces and often fit where nothing else will go. First 3 to 4 sizes are recommended by most of the people. I got the first four and place them all. Nice stuff!
- Daniel
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king_rat
Aug 18, 2005, 12:08 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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I wouldn't get any more, you've got a reasonable rack to be getting on with. once you've climbed on that for a while you may feel you want to add to it. that way you will know what you need rather then asking people for opinions.
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landgolier
Aug 18, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Hexes all the way down to #1 gives you a shitload of stuff. You're never going to get marooned with that much stuff, and if you put a dime in a jar every day until you have enough routes under your belt to say, "You know, I always place a #6 stopper and seem to wish I had another one, I think I'll pick up doubles in #5-#8 to beef things up a little in that range," you'll have more than enough cash. More likely, though, is that you'll eBay all of the hexes below the #6 and use that money. Forget about the metolius nuts for now, put the big money into the cam fund.
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krisp
Aug 18, 2005, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2005
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Yes, you need more protection from the wedge. I suggest Bermuda shorts.
Also, If someone is putting a hex on you, I think BD sells eye of newt. :wink:
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cantbuymefriends
Aug 18, 2005, 2:27 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
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As always, it depends on what area you are climbing in.
But I'd recommend to get some more nuts of the same sort that you already have. Maybe not a full set, but some doubles in the size range that you use the most is good to have. (I started out with some hexes and a set of WC Rocks, found out that the #4 and #5 always got placed, so I doubled up on size #2-6.)
I don't think there's any advantage to start mixing nut sets for beginners, cause you don't have the experience to judge the pros and cons for each placement. Better and faster to stick to a single brand/type and learn to see where they fit.
And no. You don't need more hexes.
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reg
Aug 18, 2005, 3:01 PM
Post #13 of 19
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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i would suggest a set of trango brassi's or similar. having small stuff is good. chk some of the smaller aluminum nuts (various manufacturers) and see the KN ratings are low like 2-3 but the brassi's are 6 for the smallest and 10 on the rest. then get some cams.
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asandh
Aug 18, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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king_rat
Aug 18, 2005, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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In reply to: BD Stoppers #1 & #2 are only for aid, take them off your lead rack BD Stopper #3 should only be used by fairly experienced trad leader
Hi
BD stoppers 1 and 2 are not just for aid. If you’re trad climbing and all you can get in is a micro wire then they serve a purpose. Yes they should only be used as a last resort and only if you understand the kind of force they will hold, but they are still useful(I would not advice some one new trad climbing to buy a set of micro wires but they do have there place in trad protection).
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asandh
Aug 18, 2005, 3:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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reg
Aug 18, 2005, 3:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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i think the only reason for a 2kn piece on a trad rack is use as an opposing piece to keep another oriented but to hang a rope on it and climb above - well your free-soloing!
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king_rat
Aug 18, 2005, 4:12 PM
Post #18 of 19
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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In reply to: king rat wrote: In reply to: Hi BD stoppers 1 and 2 are not just for aid. #1 & #2 BD Stoppers - 2 kn breaking strength in perfect rock. That's maybe a 3 foot fall. I hope you're not trusting them beyond that. The original entry came from the "Beginners" Forum. Beginners have no business, and no need, using BD stoppers #1,2,3 . If "you" want to use them for free leads ... fine ... but this is stuff that will get a beginner killed.
Sorry your right, it has no place on a beginners rack, but I did say that they should only be used by someone who understands there strength and as a last resort. If your last runner is 30 foot below you and all you can get in is a micro wire, I'd put a micro wire in .Yes it will only hold a short fall, but if they are either stacked in a crack or the tension is equalised they can hold quite large falls.
Its better to have something then nothing.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 18, 2005, 4:15 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2001
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I have a shit load of gear…various manufacturers/ makes/ models…why, cuz I'm a gear whore. At least half the sh*t I own, I rarely use.
My buddy has a tiny rack comprised mostly with booty he’s found abandoned on moderate routes.
He’s never needed more than he has on his harness…while I, on the other hand, could lead another full pitch with the gear I still have hanging from my Metolious 4-gear loop sling…if only the rope was 60 meters longer.
He won't climb with me using my rack...he insists that we use his.
You become a bit more creative (resourceful) in your placements when your options are limited. This comes in handy when you're on long alpine routes, where carrying an additional 8-10 lbs of gear isn't recommended.
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